Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you got your ticket" grumps).
What is your opinion of this method: http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <[email protected]> wrote: > I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is > more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. > > > On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, [email protected] wrote: > >> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys >> using 200-300W irons! >> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of >> body with holes in it? >> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We >> had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years >> ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared >> resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. >> He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance? >> 73, Mike >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Ken G Kopp <[email protected]> >> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> >> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM >> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's >> >> >> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as >> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... >> >> Here's suggestions ... >> >> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. >> >> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and >> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" >> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when >> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's >> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. >> >> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body >> of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be >> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making >> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. >> >> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector >> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) >> >> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector >> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers >> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- >> later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square" >> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny >> touch >> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed >> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a >> small assist with slip-joint pliers. >> >> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and >> solder them correctly. >> >> 73! >> >> Ken Kopp - K0PP >> [email protected] >> > > -- > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- CW: NAQCC #6554 | SKCC #10435 | FISTS #16155 | SOC #1038 | FPQRP #3186 Digital: FHC #4224 | 30MDG #6370 | DMC #5698 Gear: K3 #7164 | KX3 #1787 http://vadept.com ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
