I am really glad to see this appear, too. I have always wondered what is really going on inside the connector, and that reaming out of the solder holes will surely help.
What I am REALLY glad about is that the older style of PL-259 with a little cover and a set-screw are gone. Long gone. On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 8:14 AM, Mark <[email protected]> wrote: > The advantage of k3lr's method is that the quality of the soldering of the > braid is easy to > inspect. I used the tinned braid tubing cutter method many times but > still managed to put > a connector on that I filled the holes with solder and not connecting to > the braid. (It still > worked for a couple of years like that BTW). It looked good. > > Mark. N2QT > > > On Nov 12, 2013, at 2:06 AM, Vic K2VCO <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it > this way. I would tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then > solder through the holes like K0PP suggested. I have never had a problem > with one done like this. > > > > > >> On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote: > >> Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables > >> and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask > because > >> they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before > you > >> got your ticket" grumps). > >> > >> What is your opinion of this method: > >> > >> http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ > >> > >> > >> > >>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <[email protected]> > wrote: > >>> > >>> I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip > is > >>> more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. > >>> > >>> > >>>> On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, [email protected] wrote: > >>>> > >>>> What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with > guys > >>>> using 200-300W irons! > >>>> Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot > of > >>>> body with holes in it? > >>>> My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. > We > >>>> had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years > >>>> ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared > >>>> resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. > >>>> He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower > resistance? > >>>> 73, Mike > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> ________________________________ > >>>> From: Ken G Kopp <[email protected]> > >>>> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > >>>> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM > >>>> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as > >>>> part of an over-all talk on wire antennas.... > >>>> > >>>> Here's suggestions ... > >>>> > >>>> Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. > >>>> > >>>> Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and > >>>> cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16" > >>>> portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when > >>>> the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's > >>>> a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. > >>>> > >>>> Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body > >>>> of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be > >>>> the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making > >>>> soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. > >>>> > >>>> This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector > >>>> on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) > >>>> > >>>> The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector > >>>> onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers > >>>> for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- > >>>> later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are > "square" > >>>> to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny > >>>> touch > >>>> of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the > ribbed > >>>> front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a > >>>> small assist with slip-joint pliers. > >>>> > >>>> There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and > >>>> solder them correctly. > >>>> > >>>> 73! > >>>> > >>>> Ken Kopp - K0PP > >>>> [email protected] > >>> > >>> -- > >>> Vic, K2VCO > >>> Fresno CA > >>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > >>> > >>> ______________________________________________________________ > >>> Elecraft mailing list > >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > >>> Post: mailto:[email protected] > >>> > >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > > -- > > Vic, K2VCO > > Fresno CA > > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > > ______________________________________________________________ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- 73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW and thinking about operating CW: "Do today what others won't, so you can do tomorrow what others can't." ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
