Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it this way. I would
tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then solder through the holes like K0PP
suggested. I have never had a problem with one done like this.
On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote:
Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables
and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because
they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you
got your ticket" grumps).
What is your opinion of this method:
http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <[email protected]> wrote:
I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is
more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job.
On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, [email protected] wrote:
What is "U-shaped area in the connector body"? I see replies with guys
using 200-300W irons!
Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of
body with holes in it?
My 100 watt (1/4" tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We
had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years
ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared
resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors.
He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance?
73, Mike
________________________________
From: Ken G Kopp <[email protected]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as
part of an over-all talk on wire antennas....
Here's suggestions ...
Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells.
Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and
cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16"
portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when
the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's
a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion.
Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body
of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be
the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making
soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier.
This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector
on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-)
The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector
onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers
for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came-
later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are "square"
to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny
touch
of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed
front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a
small assist with slip-joint pliers.
There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and
solder them correctly.
73!
Ken Kopp - K0PP
[email protected]
--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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