For pre-built antennas, HyPower is a good choice. He has lots of options, fan 
dipoles, loaded dipoles, even combinations. I have a fan dipole made from a 
full-size 40m element and an element that is full-size for 80 and loaded for 
80. He also sells the loading coils if you would rather DIY.

http://www.hypowerantenna.com/

wunder
K6WRU

On Jun 26, 2014, at 5:30 AM, "Charlie T, K3ICH" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Don't rule out traps.
> 
> Also, the RF Connection and probably others, sell a nice stranded copperweld 
> wire that has a black polyethylene insulation.  If I remember correctly, it 
> is 13 ga and is ideal for antennas.  For all practical purposes, it doesn't 
> stretch,  is fairly slippery  and only a little "springier" than hard drawn 
> copper.
> 
> I use those double ferrule aluminum crimp on's that are designed for flexible 
> wire cable to hold everything together.  I was concerned about them holding 
> through the poly insulation, but the following antenna has been up for about 
> ten years now.  It consists of a double (fan) dipole with a pair of 80 meter 
> traps in the top leg for 160 & 80 M coverage and a pair of 40 meter traps in 
> the lower leg for 60 & 40 M coverage.  It is fed thru a 1:1 balun with RG-213 
> and is tuned for resonance.  Basically, I operate SSB 99% of the time, so the 
> antenna is tuned for that end of the bands.  An MN-2700 tuner in the shack 
> takes care of  small excursions from resonance.  It's only up about 50 feet, 
> so performance is what you'd expect. It's not straight either and is sort of 
> a lazy Z, being strung between two 55' telephone poles that are 105 feet 
> apart.  The ends droop down at about 45 degrees to tie-off points in trees.  
> A compromise? Yes, but it works.
> 
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Brown" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 1:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
> 
> 
>> On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>>> So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
>>> candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope
>>> between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees,
>>> thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side,
>>> and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one variation on
>>> the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting
>>> rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
>>> linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't
>>> perform as well as the full length version.
>> 
>> If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you want 
>> an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator?
>> 
>> Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 
>> 20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good 
>> antenna, and is easy to build.
>> 
>> My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big box 
>> store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch until it 
>> breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get hurt. Now you 
>> have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and pre-stretched. Use 
>> that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or #14 THHN (house wire) 
>> for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into 
>> lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire fans. 
>> 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in place by 
>> soldering short lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare copper of 
>> the long element.
>> 
>> The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should be. 
>> A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 ohms. 
>> A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 depending on the Z 
>> at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small coax. My 110 ft 80/40 fans 
>> are fed with Belden 8213.
>> 
>> For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to one 
>> end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my trees. 
>> If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up on the 
>> ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen.
>> 
>> My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest 
>> that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My "seat of the pants" 
>> observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is greatest 
>> with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort of works, 
>> and 6M works pretty well.
>> 
>> For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the 
>> statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander.
>> 
>> http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf
>> 
>> When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are "hotter," he means that 
>> this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is needed to 
>> whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy dacron rope that was 
>> tied directly to the end of said dipole (well, twice, actually). The extra 
>> ingredient was that it was wet. Duh.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
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--
Walter Underwood
[email protected]



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