Thanks very much for showing me HYpower Anntennas.  They look very interesting, 
and I am going to call them with questions.  Gerry

Sent from my iPhone this time 

> On Jun 26, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Walter Underwood <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> For pre-built antennas, HyPower is a good choice. He has lots of options, fan 
> dipoles, loaded dipoles, even combinations. I have a fan dipole made from a 
> full-size 40m element and an element that is full-size for 80 and loaded for 
> 80. He also sells the loading coils if you would rather DIY.
> 
> http://www.hypowerantenna.com/
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> 
>> On Jun 26, 2014, at 5:30 AM, "Charlie T, K3ICH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>> Don't rule out traps.
>> 
>> Also, the RF Connection and probably others, sell a nice stranded copperweld 
>> wire that has a black polyethylene insulation.  If I remember correctly, it 
>> is 13 ga and is ideal for antennas.  For all practical purposes, it doesn't 
>> stretch,  is fairly slippery  and only a little "springier" than hard drawn 
>> copper.
>> 
>> I use those double ferrule aluminum crimp on's that are designed for 
>> flexible wire cable to hold everything together.  I was concerned about them 
>> holding through the poly insulation, but the following antenna has been up 
>> for about ten years now.  It consists of a double (fan) dipole with a pair 
>> of 80 meter traps in the top leg for 160 & 80 M coverage and a pair of 40 
>> meter traps in the lower leg for 60 & 40 M coverage.  It is fed thru a 1:1 
>> balun with RG-213 and is tuned for resonance.  Basically, I operate SSB 99% 
>> of the time, so the antenna is tuned for that end of the bands.  An MN-2700 
>> tuner in the shack takes care of  small excursions from resonance.  It's 
>> only up about 50 feet, so performance is what you'd expect. It's not 
>> straight either and is sort of a lazy Z, being strung between two 55' 
>> telephone poles that are 105 feet apart.  The ends droop down at about 45 
>> degrees to tie-off points in trees.  A compromise? Yes, but it works.
>> 
>> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Brown" <[email protected]>
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 1:55 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
>> 
>> 
>>>> On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>>>> So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
>>>> candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope
>>>> between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees,
>>>> thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side,
>>>> and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one variation on
>>>> the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting
>>>> rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
>>>> linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't
>>>> perform as well as the full length version.
>>> 
>>> If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you 
>>> want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator?
>>> 
>>> Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 
>>> 20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good 
>>> antenna, and is easy to build.
>>> 
>>> My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big box 
>>> store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch until it 
>>> breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get hurt. Now you 
>>> have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and pre-stretched. Use 
>>> that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or #14 THHN (house wire) 
>>> for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into 
>>> lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire 
>>> fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in 
>>> place by soldering short lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare 
>>> copper of the long element.
>>> 
>>> The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should 
>>> be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 
>>> ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 depending on 
>>> the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small coax. My 110 ft 
>>> 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213.
>>> 
>>> For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to one 
>>> end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my trees. 
>>> If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up on the 
>>> ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen.
>>> 
>>> My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest 
>>> that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My "seat of the pants" 
>>> observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is greatest 
>>> with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort of works, 
>>> and 6M works pretty well.
>>> 
>>> For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the 
>>> statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander.
>>> 
>>> http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf
>>> 
>>> When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are "hotter," he means that 
>>> this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is needed 
>>> to whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy dacron rope that 
>>> was tied directly to the end of said dipole (well, twice, actually). The 
>>> extra ingredient was that it was wet. Duh.
>>> 
>>> 73, Jim K9YC
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>> 
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> 
> --
> Walter Underwood
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
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