Interesting thread. The dust appears to be settling, so I thought I'd weigh in. 
Whether I'm biased or not is left as a study question for the reader ;)

We designed the KX3 specifically for new hams. Here are some considerations:

- The KX3's size and weight allows it to be used anywhere, and powered from a 
small battery or power supply, even its internal battery pack. This means you 
don't have to evict anyone from precious desk or table real-estate as you 
dabble in your new hobby. At least not right away. You can move around, maybe 
use a corner of the garage, or an RV, or a picnic table. This is why we call it 
"ultraportable." 

- The KX3 has about half as many controls as the K3 and other full-featured 
desktop radios. We kept only the essentials. And you don't need to use all of 
the rig's features. You can start with the basics -- VFO, AF GAIN, MODE, BAND 
up and down. The default settings of the radio pretty much just work. Set the 
power level you want and start tuning around.

- The owner's manual is written with new hams in mind, with supplemental 
information about antennas, operating modes, and the nature of the different HF 
bands. We don't go into a huge amount of detail, but it's enough to get you 
started, and you already have a few thousand friends on the Elecraft and KX3 
reflectors if you want to dive into deeper waters. The manual is organized so 
that basic operation is covered right up front. As time permits, you can try 
each more advanced feature.

- At 12 W (8 to 10 on the highest few bands), the KX3's power output is only 9 
dB below 100 W. Thanks to the beauty of logarithmic phenomena, that's only 1.5 
to 2.5 S-units depending on whose S-meter standard you're basing it on. (We use 
roughly a 5-dB-per-S-unit standard at Elecraft.) Yes, it can be harder to work 
stations using SSB mode when you're two S-units down, but if you avoid pileups 
and stick with calling stations that are well above the noise level, you'll 
have no trouble making SSB contacts.

- The KX3's wide-range ATU can greatly simplify the process of erecting 
antennas for all bands. Here's the simplest case: One piece of wire about 25 
feet long, tossed into a tree, and a similar wire laid on the ground, can be 
connected directly to the radio with a BNC-to-binding post adapter (no coax). 
The ATU can tune this on 40-6 meters. If the wires are 50 feet long, you can 
also cover 60 and 80 meters. That's 80-6 meters with two wires, no coax, and a 
support provided free by nature (or your neighbors). Obviously you can improve 
on this to better your odds, say by using an off-center-fed wire of 50 to 100 
feet long supported in the middle by a 20 to 40 foot pole or tree and fed with 
twinlead or ladder line. A balun (e.g. Elecraft BL2) would then be used at the 
rig to convert this sortof-balanced antenna to the radio, through a short 
length of coax (1 to 2 feet).

- Hams who are transitioning from VHF/UHF to HF might want to add the 2-meter 
module (3 watts, all modes, including repeater controls, DTMF, memories, etc.). 
When you get tired of exploring the vast wilds of the HF bands, you can return 
to the familiarity of 2-m FM, etc., and chat with the locals.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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