>> Messing with the sub-receiver is such a PITA that I will
>> putting a new filter in for weeks before I gather the courage to pull
>I can't see spending the money for shipping and insurance, not to
>factory charges for relatively simple work, over fear of the sub
>I've had mine in and out ( and in and out and ...) a bunch over the
>while it might seem fiddly without a bit of patience and due care,
>a real issue with it. It's always seemed to drop right in. Had it out
>weeks ago for the 'n'th time to put the LF receive mods in.
>Or maybe I've just had a lot of practice ? :)
Grant is so right: practice counts for a lot. Procrastinating only
allows you to forget everything you learned the last time.
Along with training yourself, you are also 'training' the connector pins
into the correct locations for easier insertion the next time around.
The same applies to the bent-metal covers of the KRX3, which are
difficult to assemble the first time, but eventually become trained to
fit each other.
TL;DR version: As you get better, the job itself becomes easier as well.
So do it!
A few tips when replacing the KRX3:
0. Rule Zero of Elecraft assembly: All Parts Fit Exactly. If that
doesn't seem to be true, you don't have the parts aligned correctly yet.
1. Install the TMP connectors *before* attempting to mate the multi-pin
connectors. Use hemostats to handle the TMP connectors. 6in hemostats
(aka artery forceps) are very cheap on eBay. Use the locking handles to
grip the connector body at the correct angle for insertion, and feel for
the center pin. Be patient. When the center pin locates correctly, the
connector body will locate too. Now unlock the hemostat handles and use
the tips of the jaws to push the whole connector firmly into place. You
should distinctly feel the connector move inward.
Again, this is all about practice. When you have learned what a
correctly seated TMP connector looks and *feels* like, you won't forget.
Also avoid removing or disturbing TMP connectors unnecessarily. A
surprising amount of work can be done while leaving them in place - but
always check them again after reassembly.
2. The multi-pin connector at the front right of the KRX3 aligns
*exactly* with the edges of the vertical adapter board. Memorize what
this should look like when correctly assembled. Ease this connector into
place first, but don't screw anything down yet.
3. The multi-pin connector at the rear left of the KRX3 is more
difficult to align. It is more difficult to see from above, and also its
adapter board can move away from the vertical. To see what you're doing,
remove the left side panel (see tip 5) and use a screwdriver to nudge
the adapter board into the correct position. Then the KRX3 will drop
easily into place. Look in from the left-hand side to check that *all*
of the pins are *correctly* mated.
4. Remember Rule Zero. If the KRX3 does not drop easily into place with
all connectors correctly mated, or if the long retaining screws passing
through the KRX3 don't immediately find the threaded pillars below...
then something is wrong. Go back.
5. Removing the side, top and bottom covers from a K3(S) is easy. If it
makes some other part of the job more easy to do, then don't hesitate.
Contrary to doctrine, you can use an electric screwdriver to remove
cover panels without damage - but on two conditions: (a) that you use
the correct Phillips screwdriver bit; and (b) you understand that an
"electric screwdriver" is a small, low-power tool that nestles in the
hand - not a drill-driver with a half-inch chuck!
But always go back to the manual screwdriver when inserting and
tightening screws. An electric screwdriver is *not* suitable for
tightening these small screws because there is a great risk of
over-tightening and causing damage. Over-tightened screws will also be
much more difficult to remove the next time. (Even if you own an
instrument-grade electric screwdriver with a clutch that is correctly
adjusted for these particular screws, you will still make mistakes.)
73 from Ian GM3SEK
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