Overall, not a great plan.
Using an inverter, you will introduce RF noise, generate heat and poor
regulation, unless you get a quality inverter (not cheap). It's
inefficient too and space wasteful.
If you use a power port (no longer called cigarette plugs), you will
again introduce noise for your radio because they seldom have decent
chassis bonding. They are also low amperage capable and you can exceed
that (check the owner manual or the fuse block), even if momentarily.
Often they are also part of the vehicle systems array, so you'll get
noises and generate issues to/from the vehicle electronics, some of
which are rather spendy to repair.
In the long run, it's best (and least expense) to simply run the (fused
at both ends, both wires) power cable to a known, chassis bonded
source. Power is NOT a place to cheap out. If you're QRP, it's simple,
the wires aren't huge, check your IR^2 losses over the run (make sure
there is no voltage drop AT the radio).
Hint: Make sure EVERYTHING, power at the source, power at the radio,
the radio itself AND the antenna are properly RF bonded (not DC) to the
vehicle and you'll have less issues, which translates into more fun.
Rick NHC
On 10/9/2017 8:46 AM, Ignacy wrote:
This is entirely unnecessary. Use the cigarette lighter and MFJ power
conditioner. While you radio requires 20A peak, the power conditioner
reduces it to about 8 A average, which the cigarette lighter will do easily.
Ignacy, NO9E
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