Don, I have one question.

This is the second time my K2/100 has completely toasted D16 and D17. I also 
have a KAT100 connected at the same time, which has virtually identical SWR 
bridge.

How is it that a static discharge can destroy D16 and D17, but the diodes D1 
and D2 in the KAT100 are unaffected?

With the K2/100 / KAT100 combo, at which time are each of the SWR bridges used?

> On May 24, 2019, at 10:09 PM, Bill Coleman <aa...@arrl.net> wrote:
> 
> OK, I removed D16 and D17, and on the diode setting of my DVM, they both 
> measured the same value both forward and backward - 034. Which means they 
> were totally shorted.
> 
> I replaced them with new diodes (which measured 316 forward, and infinite 
> backward), and the RF display is once again working.
> 
> Unfortunately, I don’t have a dummy load to do the calibration on page 48 
> right now, so it will probably have to wait a few more days before I can 
> everything in the same place. 
> 
> However, I’m declaring this mystery solved. I am very glad I put machined 
> socket pins in for D16 & D17. Took only a couple of minutes to replace them.
> 
>> On May 15, 2019, at 7:30 PM, Bill Coleman <aa...@arrl.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Took me over week to check this, but power is the same whether Tune or 
>> Tune/Display — 100 watts! 
>> 
>> So, the suspects are likely D16 & D17.
>> 
>> Fortunately, the last time I replaced them I put in a couple of pins from a 
>> machined pin socket, so it should be an easy job.
>> 
>> I’ve had to replace U6 before as well. I think I have a socket there, too.
>> 
>>> On May 4, 2019, at 12:11 AM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Bill,
>>> 
>>> Set the power at 50 watts and do a TUNE.
>>> Is the output power at 20 to 25 watts?  If so, so far so good.
>>> Now try a TUNE/DISPLAY (hold both buttons at once).  Is the power near 50 
>>> watts?  If so, you have proper power control and the problem is with the 
>>> LED display.
>>> 
>>> OTOH, if the actual power in both cases above goes to 100 watts or more, 
>>> then the first step is to replace KPA100 D16 and D17.  If that does not fix 
>>> things, there is likely another problem in the KPA100 wattmeter, likely 
>>> KPA100 U6 - but get back with the information before replacing it, there 
>>> are more tests to verify or deny that possibility.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>> 
>>> On 5/3/2019 10:25 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>>>> I’ve recently seem a problem with my K2/100. It transmits ok, and the 
>>>> power level out tracks the power control, but the power indication LEDs 
>>>> remain at zero.
>>>> No, I’m not in ALC mode, I’m definitely in RF mode for the meter.
>>>> I’m using an external wattmeter (a Kenwood AT-250 in passthrough mode), 
>>>> and can definitely see 100 watts being transmitted.
>>>> I’m thinking that maybe D16 and D17 may have been fried. Is that a good 
>>>> guess?
>> 
>> Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL        Mail: aa...@arrl.net
>> Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
>> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
>>           -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
>> 
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> 
> Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL        Mail: aa...@arrl.net
> Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
>            -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
> 

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL        Mail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
            -- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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