Thanks for the tip, Don.  Been preparing coax cables for years the hard (and 
wrong) way.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 10, 2019, at 3:02 PM, Don Wilhelm <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Clark and all,
> 
> The secret to stripping the outer insulation from ANY coax (including the 
> RG178) is to first score the outer insulation a bit (not trying to cut all 
> the way to the shield), then bend the cable at the score mark which will 
> stretch the insulation a bit - then a light touch with the blade will cause 
> the insulation to split all the way down to the shield.
> Rotate the cable to the other side and do the 'bend and touch' thing again.  
> You should then be able to slide the insulation off the shield.
> 
> Separate the shield strands and split them into two groups - twist the 
> strands on one half and cut the rest away.
> 
> You can do the same "score, bend and touch" operation to the center conductor 
> if you do not have good wire cutters to strip it.  Do not nick the conductor, 
> or it will break after it is soldered.
> 
> The other thing many hams do not realize is that the braid of the shield 
> should NOT be filled with solder (making it stiff).  Solder only  the tip as 
> far in as necessary to make the connection.  If soldered stiff, it will 
> usually break either where it is soldered to the board or connector or at the 
> point where the braid exits the coax.
> I have replaced the input coax on many KPA100s and KAT2s that were broken 
> because the shield was soldered stiff.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 10/10/2019 2:27 PM, Clark Macaulay wrote:
>> Helps a lot, Jim.
>> Yes...you answered my question in that you have done it.  So, I'll set
>> aside a morning where I swear off coffee (steadier hands) and using a new
>> razor blade give it a try.  Didn't know the cable in the kit is RG178 which
>> is about 30% smaller than RG174.  I don't see anyplace on the board to tack
>> on a RG174 cable as the pads for the SMT components are so small.  It's
>> actually a beautiful board.
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