Go to K0BG.com and read everything. His site is probably the best resource
on the internet for mobile operations.

Mike


On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 3:17 PM Rick NK7I <rick.n...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Not only is the accessory circuit shared with others, it is often loaded
> with noises from the electronics in the vehicle.  They can harm both
> your RX and TX signals.
>
> It takes a little time to run #12 ROMEX (with 40 or 50 A mobile,
> self-resetting circuit breakers at the battery to protect the wire,
> fuses for radios AT the radios; both positive and negative) but the
> returns are worth it.  You'll have to remember to turn the K3 OFF each
> time you start the engine; the wandering voltage could cause harm or
> scramble the settings.  Also bond to chassis AT the K3 to keep some RFI
> down...
>
> *IF* you have a newer vehicle that measures current draw and charging
> rate at the battery (sometimes via the negative pole), you'll want to
> use that sensor point for negative connection; not at the battery.
>
> That's the super quick description, to start a foundation of proper set up.
>
> 73,
> Rick NK7I
>
>
> >
> >> I am planning to put my K3 in the car for the upcoming Tennessee QSO
> Party
> >> so that I can go rover/expeditionary.
> >>
> >> With that comes a question:  Powering from that accessory socket which
> >> appears limited to 15 amps instead of the 20 amps that the K3 wants at
> full
> >> power, do I understand right that reducing to 50 watts output and taking
> >> the -3dB will work out in terms of power draw?
> >>
> >> In the past, I have done QRP and would like to be a bit louder this
> time.
> >> Thanks to all who might respond.
> >>
> >> --
> >> 73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW
>
>
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