IF it were me, I would run two NEW, 10GA or better high strand count
wires (twisted by hand or drill) from the battery to the cabin with
appropriate fuses in BOTH POS and NEG lines, and the Anderson PP
connector on the end.
Ideally, I would also put a SPST switch in the POS (my pref), or a DPST
switch across both leads so that I could turn the power off there for
connection purposes (optional).
This gives you the ability to 1) power the K3 with Key off, engine off
if desired, and 2) gives you a big, shortest run dedicated to the radio.
Additionally, it gives you a twisted pair, AND the ability to put chokes
wherever you might need them to quiet down the power source from
possible noise from the vehicle.
73,
______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389
On 08/23/20 13:32, Ed K1EP wrote:
You could do that. I wouldn't advise it for other reasons. Why don't you
measure the current at different power levels when on a power supply? There
is a current display on the radio. The cigarette plug is not directly
connected to the battery. There is likely to be poor connections resulting
in IR losses and other problems.
On Sun, Aug 23, 2020, 14:22 Ted Edwards W3TB <w3tb....@gmail.com> wrote:
I am planning to put my K3 in the car for the upcoming Tennessee QSO Party
so that I can go rover/expeditionary.
With that comes a question: Powering from that accessory socket which
appears limited to 15 amps instead of the 20 amps that the K3 wants at full
power, do I understand right that reducing to 50 watts output and taking
the -3dB will work out in terms of power draw?
In the past, I have done QRP and would like to be a bit louder this time.
Thanks to all who might respond.
--
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW
and thinking about operating CW:
"Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't."
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