Another problem with cleaning flux is ionic contamination. The
activator in the flux, which is necessary to get the solder to stick, is
acidic. As long as the flux is left alone, the ionic contamination is
trapped in the rosin where it can do no harm. But when you dissolve it
with alcohol or another solvent is is spread over the surface of the
board, unless you do a VERY thorough job of cleaning it off. That can
cause electrical leakage between circuit nodes and potentially corrosion.
The only reason for removing flux is purely cosmetic. When I was at
HP/Agilent the rule in production and service was that any flux
remaining on the board due to re-work or repair was just left in place.
Alan N1AL
On 1/1/2022 3:25 AM, CUTTER DAVID via Elecraft wrote:
Ted
If the residue is clear, don't bother, you might create more damage than you
realise (ESD). If the residue is brown, you've been using the wrong solder.
If you really feel the desire for aesthetics then you can can brush it with
IPA, but beware ESD if there are sensitive components on board. Also beware
some components can dissolve in some cleaners, eg old style polystyrene
capacitors.
73 and HNY
David G3UNA
On 31 December 2021 at 20:52 eda...@aya.yale.edu wrote:
Is there a consensus among builders of the traditional kits (K1, K2, etc)
about the best way to remove solder flux from a completed circuit board?
Some Internet sites recommend acetone, others say isopropyl alcohol. A few
tout their own product without saying exactly what it is. I remember
reading someplace that one or the other of those will clean the flux but
could also cause damage by being absorbed into components. Yes, I know this
is all purely cosmetic but if it can be done safely I'd like to try it on
the next kit. Suggestions?
Thanks,
Ted, KN1CBR
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