Wayne and all, As you well know, de-soldering lead-free solder jobs is a chore. My Hakko 808 is often unsuccessful. My technique is to first suck out as much of the solder that I can, then re-solder with leaded solder and suck it out again.
If I am not successful after 3 attempt at this, I give up and destroy the component so it can be removed by heating one lead at a time and use the stainless steel needle 'trick' to open the holes. When destroying some components such as relays, I take great care not to place stress on the board - keep a clear head about where the pressure points are and use whatever tools are available - a shortened hacksaw blade, large pliers, small pliers, diagonal cutters and other similar devices may be used in combination to get the bits of the device destroyed without damage to the board. I look for the straight stainless steel picks at hamfests and try to have at least 2 of them handy at my workbench at all times, since they tend to get lost under other items easily. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of wayne burdick > Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 12:46 AM > To: Ron D'Eau Claire > Cc: [email protected] > Subject: [Elecraft] Re: lead-free solder (plus bonus desoldering primer :) > > > Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > > > I wrote, "Lead-free solder melts at a higher temperature than leaded > > solder. Higher temperatures mean it's easier > > to lift a trace or damage a solder pad if you change a part." > > This is certainly true. But it's worse than that. What I should have > said is that it's much harder to get parts off the board *at all* if > they were secured using unleaded solder. It's hard to get even one wire > out of a hole! > > In 1999 I wrote about the joys of component removal: > > http://www.kkn.net/archives/html/QRP-L/1999-01/msg00445.html > > Everything I said in this piece goes double for lead-free solder :) > > However, I must modify my original Technique #8. Rather than use a > component lead to clean out a solder-filled hole, I use a very thin > stainless-steel "pick" or a toothpick. The solder won't stick to such > tools -- a huge improvement over my original method. > > 73, > Wayne > N6KR > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/594 - Release Date: 12/20/2006 3:54 PM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [email protected] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
