Hi All,
One bag of parts, the "miscellaneous bag" I think, has most of the screws
used in the assembly. Other accessories and parts do often include
additional hardware necessary for assembly of that part. But generally, you
are digging screws from the general package. With 20/20 hindsight, I would
recommend that you separate all the hardware carefully into muffin tin
compartments. I spent way too much time carefully measuring each screw with
a ruler--the 3/16 inch screws are hard to distinguish from the 1/4 inch,
etc. You have flat head screws, black pan head screws, zinc pan head
screws, and in varying sizes. Then you have different types of washers
also. Most other parts are readily identifiable, but the screws and washers
can be a little confusing. You probably will have a few extra as well, and
the manual makes note of that fact.
Also, when you add the KPA3 shield and amp, you will actually change a few
pieces of hardware. So take care when you get to that step.
As noted earlier, the bottom panels are not countersunk, and use panhead
screws rather than flathead screws.
While I'm at it, I will pass on a couple of very small glitches I ran into.
One was attaching the plastic cover which goes over the LCD display. I had
a little trouble exactly matching the holes in the cover with the holes on
the front panel. It made it difficult to get the screws to catch, but
eventually it all worked.
When attaching the control board to the front panel, I found it a bit tricky
to get the microphone jack to slide fully through the hole in the front
panel. The manual also makes mention of this. I didn't have to do any
reaming or anything, but it does take a little careful jiggling to get the
microphone connector to fully pass through the hole.
Finally, when mounting the KPA3 to the shield, I think you will find that it
is very difficult to get your fingers (fat or otherwise) in where you can
get the screws to seat into the hole for tightening. You probably would be
wise to use a screwdriver that is magnetic so that you can move the screw
down over the hole and begin to screw it in. The required washer can be
places over the hole by just sliding them into position using the small
slots on the side where the screwholes are located. But those slots aren't
big enough to do the same with the screw itself. But using a magnetic
tipped screwdriver also can cause a small problem as you approach the
screwhole where you have already placed the washer. The washer wants to
move due to the magnetic attraction. So you have to "aim and shoot"
somewhat deftly. But it works. Somebody else probably has a much simpler
solution to this.
Overall, I think the K3 goes together quite nicely. Everything fits! Just
be sure to mate and seat connectors properly. You are told when a connector
might not seat 100%. The little jumper cables, like the ones from the coax
connectors, have pin conncetors on them, and you need to make sure you fully
mate those as well.
Dave W7AQK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian White GM3SEK" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
If you read the step or look at the illustrations you'll see what size
screw to use and exactly where to use PAN heads and FLAT heads.
Mixing up hardware will do more than produce an ugly K3, it can cause
short circuits, bent PC boards and a variety of other not-so-nice
situations. That's why each step is very specific about the exact hardware
to use, but you really have to read the steps!
Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit?
--
73 from Ian GM3SEK
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