On Monday 26 October 2009, Glenn Edwards wrote:
>Gene,
>
>Chris is right about the alignment being the place to start- make sure it's
>right before you move on.  Second, what are the nut and screw materials?
>Brass on steel is normal, but if you have something different then keep
> that in mind.  While dry bearings do have their place, unless you are
> generating a lot of dust like Chris I suggest you stay with grease.  There
> are hundreds of varieties out there, but you should look in the following
> places.  You may have to run a different grease for summer and winter. 
> Look for additives that help with lubricity.  And get rid of the oils and
>combinations you are trying.  A good place to start is with Moly wheel
>bearing grease for the summer and lithium grease for the winter.  And
>Machinery Handbook has a good section on lubricants.  At the rpm's found on
>most machines, manually applying the grease to the screws and bearings
>should last several months under hard labor.  Good luck.
>
>-- --
>Glenn
>
>> One other Q though.  My x&y screws are 20 tip acme, and its cooling
>> down, even with a heater running the machine is maybe at 55F right
>> now, and the Y screw in particular is howling up a storm.  Its wet,
>> quite wet with a mixture that is part STP and vactra.  I've had this
>> problem before, and no lube I've tried seems to really be _the_ fix. 
>> Bar oil, 10w40, 3in1, STP, wd-40 & some spray stuff different from
>> wd-40 have all been squirted rather liberally on it to no avail.  I
>> now have ball bearings in the bearing bosses on the end of the tables,
>> and a grease fitting drilled into the bore between them but because of
>> the clearance, grease applies very very slowly there, and doesn't seem
>> to effect the squeal at all.  The bearings are mechanical seals, so
>> theoretically I should be able to blow grease right on through them
>> given enough time.
>>
>> Is there a magic panther pi$$ for this application other than money
>> for ball screws?
>
>I guess you have a similar alignment uissue I had recently. Grease did not
>solve my problem. To solve it, I loosened all screws that held / fixed the
>end bearings, aligned them one by one and fixed them again using loctite.
> My mill has roughly 1900x550x250 mm on xyz. So the main thing was on x
> naturally. I also had to loosen the "nuts" that position the x axis,
> turned them so they would show easy turning and refixed them again using
> loctite for the fixing screws. Then I ran a simple code that uses full
> extent of all axes for a couple of hours. That wears off the brims that
> may have been left from thread production and now I am going at 1300mm/min
> on all axes which is good enugh for me.
>
>I do cut wood mainly. Dust was an issue until I had my dust vent installed
>(lots of air sucked in and only occasionally a rather large grain does not
>get sucked in). Grease and dust bakes. My finding is, you are probably
>better off using dry graphite than grease. I removed all grease and am now
>on graphite.
>
>hth
>
>chris
>
Thanks Glenn.  I'll take that motor off and check that again in the next day 
or so.

-- 
Cheers, Gene
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
The NRA is offering FREE Associate memberships to anyone who wants them.
<https://www.nrahq.org/nrabonus/accept-membership.asp>

Jayne: "No offense, Doc, I think it's noble as a grape the way you 
look after River, but she ain't my sister, and she ain't your crew."
                                --"Serenity"

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