On Sun, 2011-06-05 at 20:53 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
> dave wrote:
> > On Sun, 2011-06-05 at 10:39 -0500, Chris Radek wrote:
> >   
> >> On Sun, Jun 05, 2011 at 07:58:52AM -0700, dave wrote:
> >>     
> >>> Plan 1. go to velocity mode and add a tach. The tach is low output.
> >>> only about 2.5 V/1000 rpm. For some reason I can't get the system
> >>> stable. When enabled it oscillates for a few seconds and faults. 
> >>> That is with the analog input at zero (shorted). 
> >>> I've moved the tach gain all over the place with no luck so far. 
> >>>       
> >> Are you sure it's not hooked up backwards?
> >>     
> >
> > Yep! No control at all .... just takes off in one direction if I reverse
> > the connections. 
> >   
> OK, that's a sign that the tach is doing the most basic function 
> properly.  I built my own
> velocity servo amps over a decade ago, and STILL end up tweaking the 
> performance every
> once in a while, trying to eliminate the jitters that happen every now 
> and then.  So, I sure
> don't have a magic recipe for tuning a velocity servo.

Well, I do better with velocity amps than I do with torque mode. 
A good final tuning tool would be nice. 
I often think about an approach where  one tunes manually to get close,
which, depending on your definition  is good or not so good, < 0.001
following error. 
Since I'm convinced but cannot prove that tuning parameters interact try
fine tuning as follows:
Apply a sine wave or sawtooth to the amp and randomly vary P, I, D, FF1,
and FF2 within a small zone and select for the best following error.
Unfortunately, I can think about it but don't have the skills to
implement such an approach. 


> 
> But, if it oscillates with no input, that clearly means either there is 
> too much gain on the tach
> input or it needs more compensation.  Try turning down the tach gain or 
> velocity gain (they
> label these differently on different makes).  Oh, you said you did that, 
> already!  Possibly, you
> need a resistor attenuator to drop the tach feedback some more.  Perhaps 
> try a 2:1
> divider, with 1 K Ohm resistors in series with the tach output and then 
> one across the
> tach inputs of the servo amp.
> 
> Well, what frequency of oscillation was it?  Really fast buzzing or slow 
> rocking back and forth?
> That might give some hints whether it is compensation or not.
1 sec period and about 180 degrees of shaft rotation; just an  estimate
not a quantitative  measurement. 
> 
> Is there a velocity compensation pot, or do you have to solder caps onto 
> a header?  (some amps
> make you do this). 
> 
> And, finally, are you sure the tach is giving a clean output?  It could 
> have brush noise causing
> intermittent signals.  Also, you need to be sure there is no slack 
> between the tach and the motor.
> If there is a sloppy coupling or belt, it could allow the motor to rock 
> some amount before the
> tach starts to move, that would guarantee oscillation.
> 
> Jon
Lots of good ideas above, for now I'm taking the easy way out. Swap out
for a SEM MT30H44 since I have several just waiting for an application. 

Later I can setup the Keling  on a test bench and hack away at it. A
scope  on the tach might reveal interesting things. 

 I need to get the mill going quickly since I have several projects
going including cnc on my Jet lathe. Looking back I really should have
worked harder at getting a dead cnc lathe and gone from there but
hindsight is good stuff.  Of course living in neverneverland is a
problem. Only HI or AK would be worse for shipping costs. 

Dave
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