On Mon, 2012-08-27 at 12:53 -0400, Kenneth Lerman wrote:
> On 8/27/2012 12:03 PM, Kirk Wallace wrote:
> > On Mon, 2012-08-27 at 08:48 -0500, Martin Dobbins wrote:
> >> I'm not sure if this would work for you, I haven't tried it myself, but it 
> >> may be worth a look:
> >>
> >> http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/43645-Making-Acetal-leadscrew-nuts-the-easy-way
> >>
> >> Martin
> > I tend to prefer a more traditional method. Machine a pair of plastic or
> > metal nuts and create a mount that allows for a preload similar to
> > double nut ballscrews. Or better, I'd like to find a way to make DIY
> > ballscrews. Maybe using a DIY centerless grinder (roller?) on a lathe
> > carriage?
> >
> > This might be another DIY solution:
> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roller_screw
> >
> >
> An acme screw with a (home made substitute) moglice lined nut should 
> approach the low friction and low backlash of a ballscrew.
> 
> I previously posted a note on DIY "moglice".
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Ken

For a little while. Double nuts would allow for wear adjustment. I also
wonder how much backlash on these lead screw formed nuts is masked by
binding in the peaks and valleys of the thread.

I don't recall the gist of this thread, but if it relates to
deficiencies in the performance of a machine, I would bring the machine
back to a factory fresh condition before trying to apply back woods
solutions to a worn out machine. Or, I may be way off base.

-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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