On Friday 21 June 2013 05:57:32 Gregg Eshelman did opine: > Why not flip the boring bar upside down and bore on the back side of the > hole? That way you can set the X axis the same way you do for regular > turning. > The way the under bed gibs on the carriage are set, and the narrowness of the carriage says that will lift the carriage and generate even more headaches. I have them set, and where they are you have to run the carriage off the end of the bed, then try to guess which end is loose and which end is causing the bind, adjust what you think is the offender out of 10 screws, then bring out the long f-clamps and try to get it restarted onto the ways. Repeat not till its actually right, but until you give up on making an actual improvement in the fit. I will swear I saw a tool actually lift the carriage 1/16" free of the V-way on the left front corner a day ago when I ran a tap, mounted in a chuck, which in turn was mounted in the QC bar holder. And yet those clamps are snug enough that my ball screw is using 50-75 lbs of force to actually move the carriage. This thing is a piece of junk, but its all I have. If those screws were actually accessible once the apron was unbolted and moved out of the way, better adjustments might be made, but right now I can put a dial on it, and pry it up with a good sized bar, and see the dial move 2 thou.
I will give it a shot, but will be surprised if it will do anything but chatter & break inserts. I suspect that situation is not helped by the X motor, a triple stack 23, is hanging some 2.5" away on the rear of the carriage, unloading the front v-way. Then the new apron carrying the ball nut is only 2/3rds the weight of the OEM casting as its carved from alu. Massive, but still alu. > I've used 2 flute end mills with one broken corner as boring tools many > times. Works quite well. :-) Yes, very well indeed, even 4 fluters can be used in a pinch in bigger holes above 1/4". What I do here is size limited anyway, although I have improved that size limit by about an inch with the new motor and a full 5" 4 jaw chuck. Most of what I do in steel is under an inch od, but I have done some alu that was 3" & change. > For burning out the remains of plastic threaded parts, got a propane > torch instead of using the kitchen stove? Not such a good thing to be > having plastic combustion byproducts coating the stove or oven. I will, I managed to find my Bernz-o-matic torch, exactly where I had left it after the last plumbing job I did here 4 years ago, just a day or so ago. Its amazing what I can find when I start excavating this midden heap. :) Least I hope I can burn it out, its a polycarbonate from the looks of another one just like it. And that ramrod, if I don't recover it is no great loss, its anodized alu and I can only think of one other item, jammed down a rifle barrel which would be worse, a rat tail file. Alu rods in rifle barrels are a flat no-no around me. Like fingernails on a blackboard. Cheers, Gene -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) My web page: <http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene> is up! My views <http://www.armchairpatriot.com/What%20Has%20America%20Become.shtml> strategy, n.: A comprehensive plan of inaction. A pen in the hand of this president is far more dangerous than 200 million guns in the hands of law-abiding citizens. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ This SF.net email is sponsored by Windows: Build for Windows Store. http://p.sf.net/sfu/windows-dev2dev _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
