being stubborn I'm going to top post: Mazak's policy is set up to encourage you to buy new rather than fix. :-(
Dave On Thu, 2014-07-17 at 04:57 -0300, Leonardo Marsaglia wrote: > 2014-07-17 1:40 GMT-03:00 Erik Christiansen <dva...@internode.on.net>: > > > Leonardo, one other thing worth checking as you go is all the solder > > joints. A "dry joint" occurs if a component being soldered moves > > slightly during the brief period when the solder alloy is pasty, > > i.e. neither liquid nor fully solid. A fraction too little heat into the > > joint is sometimes a factor, e.g. on heavy leads on a large component > > amongst many fine components on a flow-soldered PCB. Such joints may > > work fine for years, then fail in an intermittent fashion. > > > > I remember encountering one which coincidentally was on a large > > electrolytic capacitor. After years of use, I was able to pull the > > component lead out of the joint by hand. That is unusual, as dry joints > > normally appear solid, but rough¹ around the component lead. (In that > > case, the lead may have become lightly oxidised during storage. Who > > knows. I scraped it to bright metal before resoldering.) > > > > If the unit is old, then replacing the electrolytics is a sound > > investment in reliability. If that doesn't fix the problem, then > > resoldering the other joints on the PCB _may_ do the trick. > > After that, troubleshooting becomes trickier. > > > > Erik > > > > ¹ Or, if unbelievably bad, the molten solder has not wetted the lead or > > solder pad. Instead of flowing out over it, the solder sits in a blob, > > barely making contact. That's more likely in inexperienced hand > > soldering. > > > > Well, the big capacitors are screwed, but there are other caps and > resistors that are not mounted on the pcb but have terminals, I guess > that's worth checking. > > From what I could see there's one big PCB only, full of components. I will > have to remove it to check it if all the other components that are not > soldered are ok. > > If anything of these things don't work I will have to replace the drive for > another. I'm even thinking about setting the spindle motor to a fixed speed > with contactors as I repair or buy another drive. > > The only thing I'm scary about this is, how much time it will take to > identify all the signals and make it work. I have the schematics and > thankfully they show the input and output pins but there's no description > of any signal. For example, the tachometer that senses the spindle RPM > outputs to the Fanuc spindle drive, and then from there, there are several > pins that output to the NC to tell the spindle speed, and if there is a > fault condition. I guess I will have to work in reverse engineering to know > how the signals work, because now with the alarm I can't even move the > joints. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Want fast and easy access to all the code in your enterprise? Index and search up to 200,000 lines of code with a free copy of Black Duck Code Sight - the same software that powers the world's largest code search on Ohloh, the Black Duck Open Hub! Try it now. http://p.sf.net/sfu/bds _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
