On Thursday 06 October 2016 11:27:46 Gene Heskett wrote: > On Thursday 06 October 2016 09:54:59 andy pugh wrote: > > On 6 October 2016 at 12:32, Gene Heskett <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Anybody got a better idea than sacrificing two of the six bolt > > > positions to make the coupling vents?
I made some progress yesterday. Turned out the alu rod I had wasn't thick enough, so I sawed up a 2" thick block of 7075-T6. I've the flange turned on all 4, and the center thru hole for the 2505 screw on 2 when my feet said it was quitting time. I did make at least a pound of swarf, but there's going to be a lot more. The first piece of the round rod will serve as a plug gage as its 35mm OD is exactly the size of the bellows. I need to scour the net and find a copy of that bolt pattern at some point to see if I can apply that to drilling and tapping the bearing carriers so two of these can be bolted to the face of the carriers. Seems to me two of those 5mm bolts pulling it against the block face after drawing a line of GO-2 on it for sealant should be plenty sturdy enough. Film at 11, but day unknown. :) When I get the other two thru holes bored, I think next is an insulated probe so I can find the exact center of the thru holes on the mill. Thats something I've yet to cobble up. Squeeze a piece of 12ga solid copper in a couple layers of heat shrink in the drill chuck, split the end of a stranded wire & wrap it around the solid wire for the G38.2 probe connection, bending the end of the 12 gage solid so it, when spinning at a couple hundred rpms, fits in the hole & the machine doesn't have to move all that far to find all four "corners" of the hole, from which the exact center, well within a thou, can be found. I've also some teflon that could be used to hold the probe wire. Biggest problem there is how do I lock the probing wire into the teflon? I don't think I have a glue that works for teflon. Set screw maybe? We'll have to play with that idea. Poor mans Reneshaw. Accuracy determined by how long the end of the wire has to touch and slide along, polishing the end of the wire to a mirror finish before it cuts thru the alox surface insulation and registers. Ideally there would be a 500 volt probe voltage so it would penetrate the alox easily even a month later. Current limited so as not to damage the workpiece, perhaps 10 micro-amps? Nice idea, but I don't have such a static electricity generator. That would also need an isolation diode between this high voltage and the 5i25's logic input, and possibly even a 2nd diode to the supply rail to absorb the junction charge of the protection diode. It all gets complex fast when dealing with alu and its instant oxidation. I'll sort something out though. Sigh, $%#@ time sinks. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, SlashDot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
