You CANNOT expect any high-strength bond on HDPE that rivals the strength of the material, not with any glue. Typically it is bolted.
E6000 (same an Amazing Goop except uses PERC solvent instead of toluene) is the highest strength. Locktite makes a system for cyanoacrylate where you use a primer to activate it and then use this superglue stuff. HDPE can be thermally/ultrasonically welded to more HDPE. UHMW, that doesn't really work because it has a melt index of 0. If you put it in an oven, UHMW becomes a semi-transparent floppy sheet- but it DOES NOT melt before it starts decomposing. Its chains are so long and entangled it can't become a liquid and remain UHMW. Now I do know this. Society of Creative Anachronism uses UHMW blocks on fiberglass arrow shafts for live-combat arrows. To do this, they bore a tight, deep hole that requires compression to seat the shaft and use E6000. The joint never goes out of compression and has a lot of surface area in shear alone. That holds for life, no matter what. But you really won't have that scenario. Danny On 10/22/2016 5:22 PM, Bruce Layne wrote: > In general, no matter what your glue question is, my glue answer is epoxy. > > HDPE is almost as difficult to glue as UHMW or Teflon. Very low surface > energy. I'd recommend cleaning with isopropyl alcohol to remove every > trace of oil from the surfaces (HPDE and panel), allow it to air dry, > and then use a liberal amount of RTV silicone. You seemed to be heading > in that direction with your Goop musings. Don't be stingy. Slop it up > the sides of the HDPE if possible so it has more surface to grip and > it's protected from shear loads, which are the enemy of adhesives. > > I've had good luck mounting stuff like PC power supplies and solid state > hard drives inside a panel with 3M VHB double sided tape. VHB = Very > High Bond. It's the stuff the auto industry uses to attach automotive > trim strips to prevent automated car washes from yanking them off. Even > then, I try to mount these components on the base of the cabinet so > gravity is helping the adhesive bond rather than trying to peel the > device off the vertical side of the panel. I use powder coated steel > cabinets, and that's a slick surface that doesn't bond well. Even > worse, it's a crinkle finish so there's about half the surface area or > less for the adhesive bond to grab. > > > > On 10/22/2016 05:47 PM, Gene Heskett wrote: >> Greetings all; >> >> I am in the process of re-arranging the peripheral layout on the inside >> face of the box that holds the BoB's, opto's etc on the boxes swinging >> door plus a couple power supplies and stepper drivers in the box proper. >> >> As opposed to drilling umpty holes in this cover, I've sawn out some >> strips of HDPE, and screwed the boards to those. Its nominally 1/2" >> thick and I have not, but could, sand the face to be glued. >> >> So now I need to fix them to the inside face of this boxes door, and plug >> up the holes I have drilled already in a probably vain attempt to >> exclude swarf. Except for some conduit holes in the bottom, its gasketed >> and liquid tight. So I need a glue that will stick to this HDPE. G0-2 >> or Goop is one possibility, but is there something that will get an even >> better grip on that stuff? >> >> Thanks. >> >> Cheers, Gene Heskett > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most > engaging tech sites, SlashDot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot > _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > [email protected] > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Check out the vibrant tech community on one of the world's most engaging tech sites, SlashDot.org! http://sdm.link/slashdot _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
