So I popped over to a friends to borrow a carbide 3 cutter face mill.  Alas the 
MORSE Taper draw bar fitting wouldn't work with my R8 to MT3 adaptor.  But the 
more rounded cutters gave me the idea to use my green wheel on the carbide 
brazed cutter I was usingin the mid size fly cutter holder.  

No difference really other than the cast aluminium tended to melt onto the tip 
more easily.  I had clamped a failed casting into a large vise.

Having seen my friends fly cutter bits (modified carbide inserts) I started 
thinking about the amount the 1/4" shank cutter protruded.  I found a 5/16" HSS 
tool bit and touched up the tip.  Then screwed it in place.  Ultimately I ended 
up using a set screw (long story) but all I can say is Wow!

http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/TestFlycut_1.jpg

http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/TestFlycut_2.jpg

Silky smooth.   No light past a straight edge laid across it.  With my eyes 
closed dragging fingernail across it I can't feel the pass transitions.  
Milling done by moving X axis.  Last pass was 0.003" DOC, 390 RPM, 2.1 IPM.  
About 2"diameter fly cutter.  Overlap about 0.2" between passes.

So I suspect the 1/4" tool bit vibrated like heck as it grabbed and cut the 
work and that's what did much of the scratching on the retreating edge.  

John




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