Temperature settings (in degrees C) are in codes at the start of the g code
files so they're easy to change in any text editor.
Most of the strength in a 3D print is in the shell and perimeters around holes.
Infill over 50% is almost always a waste. Adding more perimeters does more for
increasing strength. Putting a ring of holes around the toothed pulley will use
less material and put more of what's used into perimeters in the 'spokes'.
Adding more top and bottom layers is another way to improve strength.
What I'd like to see in a slicer is a setting that every N layers it would fill
perimeter space out to within X perimeters from the outside with a top or
bottom layer style fill for two layers.For example every 6 layers on a print
with 5 perimeters lay down two layers - at 90 degrees to each other, over the
inner 3 perimeters and to 2x perimeter width onto the infill inboard of the 5th
perimeter - space permitting.
That would help ensure the surface is well tied to the interior, like putting
tie strips into mortar joints in a block wall.
A fairly recent trick that's filtered down to the free slicers is variable
layer height so it can do 0.3mm thickness for faster building on sections with
vertical or slightly angled surfaces then switch to a thinner height for a
better surface on steeper angles.
On Saturday, July 18, 2020, 8:11:05 AM MDT, Gene Heskett
<[email protected]> wrote:
And I just found a setting that was mucking up the accurcay, Cura, down
near the bottom of the list and hidden under an option disappearing
menu, has a minimum feature size setting and it was 1.0mm! Reset that
to .25mm and the sprocket teeth are now much better rendered.
That, and I found on the spool label, typical temp settings for this PLA
brand, but its printing much cleaner 5C above that. And I've found that
getting a raft base off it, wrecks the lower flange, so I'm back to a
small brim, a 225C ejector, 75C bed starter, and 220/70 running temps.
And close enough to the bed that I can see thru the first layer if I
want it to stick.
And still running low on plastic even at a 250.00 E-feed rate. It takes
around 5 minutes of knob spinning to change it by 5.00 cuz it changes
at .01/click. I might find the ideal feed rate by the time I've used the
first spool. If there is such a setting... Whats watching paint dry
boring is that this 175mm diameter sprocket, takes around 12 hours to
print + the time to cool if you want it cold & hard when you take it off
the bed. So its got to set here and cool for at least a half hour before
lifting a corner of the magnetic sign sheet it uses as bed cover.
I hope my boring build by build playbacks serve to speed up others in
getting good results. If its the right size, (but its probably not) the
180 toother on the bed now should be 100% usable with a gt2_3mm pitch
belt. I need to get one for a sizing gage before I can ascertain that.
Stay well and safe everybody.
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