On Saturday 18 July 2020 19:16:58 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:

> Temperature settings (in degrees C) are in codes at the start of the g
> code files so they're easy to change in any text editor.
>
Except the printer doesn't have one, so you've still got to dismount the 
card and take it to a machine that does.

> Most of the strength in a 3D print is in the shell and perimeters
> around holes. Infill over 50% is almost always a waste. Adding more
> perimeters does more for increasing strength. Putting a ring of holes
> around the toothed pulley will use less material and put more of
> what's used into perimeters in the 'spokes'. Adding more top and
> bottom layers is another way to improve strength.

That I've done, but the small driveing pulley I was trying to make as a 
drop-over to the 16.85mm diameter of the steel tape pulley, leaves no 
back wall at 24 teeth, and it just explodes when installed. At 24 teeth 
I expect to see every step in the eyepiece. So I make a mini puller and 
clean off the 5mm motor shaft and see if I can find a suitable metal 
pulley. Tomorrow.  Or make a harmonic to interpose out of a timing belt. 
I ought to be able to do a 10/1 in a 1 by 2" diameter package.

> What I'd like to see in a slicer is a setting that every N layers it
> would fill perimeter space out to within X perimeters from the outside
> with a top or bottom layer style fill for two layers.For example every
> 6 layers on a print with 5 perimeters lay down two layers  - at 90
> degrees to each other, over the inner 3 perimeters and to 2x perimeter
> width onto the infill inboard of the 5th perimeter - space permitting.
> That would help ensure the surface is well tied to the interior, like
> putting tie strips into mortar joints in a block wall. A fairly recent
> trick that's filtered down to the free slicers is variable layer
> height so it can do 0.3mm thickness for faster building on sections
> with vertical or slightly angled surfaces then switch to a thinner
> height for a better surface on steeper angles.
>
>     On Saturday, July 18, 2020, 8:11:05 AM MDT, Gene Heskett
> <[email protected]> wrote: And I just found a setting that was
> mucking up the accurcay, Cura, down near the bottom of the list and
> hidden under an option disappearing menu, has a minimum feature size
> setting and it was 1.0mm! Reset that to .25mm and the sprocket teeth
> are now much better rendered.
>
> That, and I found on the spool label, typical temp settings for this
> PLA brand, but its printing much cleaner 5C above that. And I've found
> that getting a raft base off it, wrecks the lower flange, so I'm back
> to a small brim, a 225C ejector, 75C bed starter, and 220/70 running
> temps. And close enough to the bed that I can see thru the first layer
> if I want it to stick.
>
> And still running low on plastic even at a 250.00 E-feed rate. It
> takes around 5 minutes of knob spinning to change it by 5.00 cuz it
> changes at .01/click. I might find the ideal feed rate by the time
> I've used the first spool. If there is such a setting...  Whats
> watching paint dry boring is that this 175mm diameter sprocket, takes
> around 12 hours to print + the time to cool if you want it cold & hard
> when you take it off the bed. So its got to set here and cool for at
> least a half hour before lifting a corner of the magnetic sign sheet
> it uses as bed cover.
>
> I hope my boring build by build playbacks serve to speed up others in
> getting good results. If its the right size, (but its probably not)
> the 180 toother on the bed now should be 100% usable with a gt2_3mm
> pitch belt. I need to get one for a sizing gage before I can ascertain
> that.
>
> Stay well and safe everybody.
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>


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