I just realized this part needs to be heat resistant.   Then make a mold
and cast the part with a stiff mixture of glass fiber and epoxy.   Polish
the inside with paste wax like you'd on on a car.

You can print a hollow mould or make the part then a plaster mold from the
part.   It is a lot of work for just one part.   Why not mill it from a
block of aluminum.  I would still make all the part bigger and use huge
fillets, less metal to mill away.

On Sat, Oct 8, 2022 at 3:39 PM gene heskett <ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote:

> On 10/8/22 13:25, Chris Albertson wrote:
> > I am a big fan of "plain old PLA"   The problem is not the plastic you
> are
> > using but the engineering design.   The part looks like you are used to
> > designing with metal or wood, where you start with flat stock and screw
> > parts together.    If you need good rigidity with 3D prints, then fill
> all
> > the air space around the part with plastic.  Use thick skin and 30% or
> more
> > infill.
> >
> > PLA is not "tough" because it is rigid and will not bend.  So it breaks
> > like glass.   But as long as you do not break it, PLA has the least flex
> I would think that being in close proximity of thehot block, like 2mm away,
> that PLA would soften and bend or stretch at that bar across the bottom of
> the big vent hole.
>
> I've had the hot end mounting bosses break off clean at the surface despite
> their being buried a mm into the surface, but  there is room at the
> bottom of
> the boss to expand that, so since the boss is a cylinder that can be
> tapered,
> its now tapered up to 12mm at the bottom and the hole is expanded .1mm
> to ease
> the torque of self threading the screw. I'd already buried a 3mm hex nut
> in the
> back of it. The boss holding the prox switch is hell to clean out the
> hole, so it got
> expanded .1mm to ease inserting the prox switch, which IMO beats the pants
> off a bltouch.
>
> Very poor access to the bottom eccentrics to adjust how tight the
> POM wheels grip the X transport extrusion bar, but I did add a 10mm tall
> fin to
> both edges to stiffen that. So another is now making on the prusa mk3s.
> And the
> Ender checked, Z re-zeroed and restarted as the jerk was too high on the
> Y and
> it lost a few steps about 4 layers up on the last start, so jerk was
> reduced about
> 20%, as was accel, so maybe it might work at 350mm speeds this time. If
> not, a
> 42 volt psu for the Y motor is next, along with a higher voltage driver.
> That motor
> will be hard to source in a stronger version as its a double shaft.
> Drives both ends
> of the x crossbar from one motor. And that is the heavyweight piece in
> this puzzle.
> I'd love to find a carbon fiber sub for that extrusion. Even a square
> with a linear
> rail s/b lighter, but bring a little red wagon full of cash for that.
>
> Actually, I found the bug in cura that is a showstopper for a tronxy
> 400mm cubed
> printer I bought, and it would be far far easier to swap its puny xy
> motors for 1NM
> 3 phasers I already have. Then the precision will be limited by the
> length of the belts
> it uses as its a doofy arrangement where both motors drive both x and y.
> So to move
> in straight y, the motors run in sync but opposite directions, and move
> the same
> direction for a straight x motion. Both belts go over a slew of pulleys,
> and are around
> 9 or 10 feet long.
>
>   But the tronxy doesn't use POM wheels, they are all steel, running on
> round steel
> rods set into off center grooves in the extrusion.
>
> So the potential for increased accuracy is there. I put small casters on
> it so its on
> the floor, but so is the tiny little controller display. There's enough
> ribbon cable to
> move it up some so I will, and I'll probably unload the bed from the psu
> in favor of
> an SSR with a line voltage feed. 80C takes it over 10  minutes from room
> temp on
> the tronxy.
>
> The head is quite similar to the enders so another Spider 300C hot end
> will be here
> Sunday, and I've 70 watt heater resistors for that. W/o the bed, the psu
> should
> handle that. The ender psu is handling both, but the bed is slow, 5 to 6
> minutes, the
> plus model is 350mm square heated. So I heat its bed before hitting the
> 70 watter
> in the hot end.  And I've found a better way to calibrate flows, look at
> the infill. Thin
> and puny looking, increase it 5%, thick and lots of sloppiness, reduce
> it to suit, with clean
> infill the target. 690 is recommended for the ldo, and its actually
> about 100 too much.
> I'm currently running at 670, and flow is still being turned down to 85%
> to get nice, but
> fat and clean infill. With jerk lowered to 45, and accel at 3000, accel
> is still too slow,
> taking around a 6 inch move to hit full speed, but its otherwise running
> well for now.
> >
> > The other things I always say is to use compound curves.
> Those are not as easy in openscad. Variations of a cylinder and sphere
> are available as macro's but true beziers take much longer to render,
>   after you study up on the library that does that. I haven't gotten that
> familiar with it yet. There also is not that much room to play in. I'm
> modified
> somewhat, the png I sent, and the prusa will have another done in about
> 4 hours.
> I concentrated on stiffening up the left and right edges, where the warpage
> was showing,but there is no real room to get artsie. And since that's
> all flying
> weight, every gram counts.
>
> Thank you for the advice. Take care and stay well, Chris.
> [...]
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett.
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>   soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>   - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/>
>
>
>
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>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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