Dale,

Well I already had the camera switched on since I was taking pictures of the
other stuff we were looking at anyway. Serendipity I guess. Still  little
blurry though.

Where is the Indian Rock overhang site? I don't know if I've seen that
before.

Kirk



From: Dale Luthringer <[email protected]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 18:31:47 -0500
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ENTS] Clarion River-Portland Mills


Kirk,
 
Great pic!  Glad you still had enough composure to snap a photo!
 
I've met John before at some lumber heritage meetings over the years, but
have spent more time with Bob.  They're both a wealth of information.
 
I've never walked into Arroyo on the north bank of the river upstream from
the Arroyo Bridge.  I've canoed & kayaked the raceway beside the island a
number of times.  What a blast! 
 
I've put visiting the indian rock overhang site on the north hilltop on my
list of hikes, but haven't got there yet.
 
Dale

On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 4:16 PM, Kirk Johnson <[email protected]> wrote:
Dale,

Thanks for all of this information, very interesting. I have both of the
books you reference too. John Imhof took me on a tour of that area in the
spring of '03, pointing out many of the features of the old mill foundations
along through the river corridor there. You are right, he is a wealth of
information. (His brother Bob knows a lot about the area too.)

Mostly we were on the north side of the river. While exploring the old town
of Arroyo, walking through all the foundations, John points at one in
particular and suggests I walk up to the top of it and look down in. So I
did, and right there at the foot of the foundation directly below me was a
sleeping black bear. He immediately woke up and ran away, pausing at the far
edge of the foundation to look back (see attached photo). It was pretty
cool.

If anyone wants to look for large oak trees, there are a lot of them on that
south-facing slope on the north side of the river between Ridgway and
Arroyo.

This is also an area of the Allegheny National that Forest Friends of
Allegheny Wilderness is asking Congress to designate as a wilderness area
under the Wilderness Act of 1964. See map here:

http://www.pawild.org/images/maps/clarion_river.jpg

To all: letters to Congress in support of this wilderness proposal always
help! (More info here: http://www.pawild.org <http://www.pawild.org/>  )

Thanks again,

Kirk Johnson 





ENTS,
 
On 4/21,30/09 I surveyed the Portland Mills Pennsylvania Fish & Boat
Commission (PAFBC) property on the Clarion River for big trees & historical
attributes.  The area is part of a proposed land swap between the PAFBC and
DCNR.  The area is loaded with lumber history and a treasure trove to those
who love to walk a site and look into its past.  Most signs of human
disturbance goes unnoticed to the untrained eye, but to those who know what
to look for, it's one of the best spots on the Clarion River to hunt for old
mills and tanneries while taking a walk back in time.
 
Portland Mills is about 34 miles up-river from Cook Forest.  Here's a link
to various sections of the Clarion River Water Trail map:
 
http://www.fishandboat.com/watertrails/clarion/clarion-trail.htm
 
and another link to download the whole guide (~3megs)
http://www.fishandboat.com/watertrails/clarion/clariontrailguide.pdf
 
I've had the pleasure of reading several books on lumber history in the
area.  Two have a great deal of information on the Portland Mills section of
the Clarion River.  The first is:
 
Taber, T.  1974.  'Tanbark, Alcohol, and Lumber: The Forest Industries of
Ridgway, St. Mary's, Hallton, Wilcox, Portland Mills, Straight,
Johnsonburg'.  by Thomas T. Taber III.
 
This is book #10 within the series 'Logging Railroad Era of Lumbering in
Pennsylvania'.  It is a classic to all PA lumber history nuts.
 
The second is:
 
Imhof, J.  2003.  'Elk County A Journey Through Time: Volume One The Central
Clarion Corridor'.  Clarion River Publishing, First Edition, by John D.
Imhoff.
 
Both are excellent, but Imhof's book goes into much greater detail.  Here
are a few excerpts:
 
"Early History
 
Portland Mills has existed under several different names and in various
sizes and configurations since the earliest days of recorded local history. 
Early accounts indicate that the area that now encompasses Portland Mills
was a great gathering point for elk, making it a likely, though unconfirmed
focus for hunting parties of the native tribes that made their homes to the
north and west of this vast wilderness.
 
The earliest recorded pioneers of European descent are said to have been a
gentleman known as General Wade and his companion, a man known only as
Slade.  Some tradition holds that Slade was a lieutenant under Wade, but the
facts are difficult to determine with a high degree of certainty.
 
Wade had come to the lower Little Toby watershed to remove some of the
remaining native population, particularly a group near what would later
become the town of Blue Rock.  During this excursion a brief fight was
conducted on the slopes above Little Toby Creek, but the natives were
quickly defeated and relocated.
 
Wade was apparently fascinated by the area and returned with his family and
Slade in 1798 to homestead.  The group spent about 5 years in the upper Toby
valley before moving to the mouth of the stream near what is now called
Carman.  It was during this period that Slade would encounter a young native
girl in the Blue Rock area.  Slade would eventually marry the young woman
who is known to local history as the Indian Maid of the Blue Rock.
 
Slade and his bride established a trading post somewhere in the
Carmon-Portland Mills area that would exist for many years.  The year was
probably 1803, and settlement was officially underway..."
 
There were a number of different mills and industries located here: 3 lumber
mills, 3 railroads, a tannery, a matchstick factory, lath mill, kindling
wood plant, hub plant, quarry.  Portland Mills was once a lumber boom town
that boasted a population of around 1,000 people, now several dozen call the
town home.  Wish you could see the old photos.  What a change from total
desolation in the early 1900's to the recovered landscape of today. 
 
Eventhough time has wiped away most evidence of past human disturbance, the
trained eye can still see remants of foundations of a number of houses,
lumber mill sites, boom piers in the river, train trestle support, and dam
remnants in the substrate of the river.
 
The surrounding forest is still recovering.  Sycamore is the most canopy
dominant tree, and turns out to be the tallest documented so far for the
Clarion River.  We even found a new staghorn sumac height record for the
state (paltry few in the database though).  Tree stats follows:
 
Species            CBH   Height   Comments
 
Am. beech         N/A    80.9
 
Am. hornbeam   1.4      36.3
 
black cherry       N/A     91.2
black cherry       N/A     97.8
black cherry       7.6     101.8
black cherry       N/A    106.2
black cherry       6.1     108.1+
black cherry       6.2     108.1+
black cherry       7.8     111.3
 
butternut            4.5     46.2
 
dotted hawthorne 2.1    31.9
dotted hawthorne 3.7    33.3
dotted hawthorne 2.3    41.7
 
E. white pine      N/A     116.3
E. white pine      N/A     121.1       N side of river
 
Juneberry           N/A     67.5
 
N. red oak          N/A     104.5
 
quaking aspen    3.4       79.9
 
shagbark hickory N/A     69.3
 
silver maple        9.7      107.3
 
slippery elm        7.7       66.1+
 
staghorn sumac  1.7       36.9        tallest documented PA 41 22.920N x 78
49.965W
 
sycamore           N/A      88.1
sycamore           N/A      99.9
sycamore           N/A      110.6
sycamore           10        115.4
sycamore           N/A      118.4
sycamore           5.8       118.6
sycamore          11.4      119.1
sycamore          N/A       119.7
sycamore           5.7       123.1
sycamore           N/A      129.1
sycamore           4.8       130.6   tallest documented Clarion River 41
22.919N x 78 50.007W
 
tuliptree             N/A       117
 
white ash           7.3        84.1+
 
 
The RI for Clarion River-Portland Mills = 100.6
 
Species             CBH     Height
 
sycamore           4.8       130.6
E. white pine      N/A       121.1
tuliptree             N/A       117
black cherry       7.8        111.3
silver maple        9.7        107.3
N. red oak          N/A       104.5
white ash           7.3         84.1+
Am. beech         N/A        80.9
quaking aspen    3.4         79.9
shagbark hickory N/A       69.3
 
 
The addition of the new sycamore record brings up the Clarion River RI to
130.97
 
Species             CBH     Height   Location
 
E. white pine       9.5       149.7     Cook Forest SP
tuliptree              7.4       141.4     Cook Forest SP
black cherry        10.2     136.4     Cook Forest SP
sycamore            4.8      130.6      Portland Mills
white ash            7.6       128.3     Cook Forest SP
N. red oak          10.1      126.7     Clear Creek SP
E. hemlock          9.2      126.7     Cook Forest SP
pignut hickory      5         126.7     Cook Forest SP
cucumbertree      7.2       122.6     Cook Forest SP
Am. beech          9.3       120.6     Cook Forets SP
 
The tallest trees are mostly found in Cook Forest with all of the Cook
trees being located in the Cook Trail Old Growth Area (1st bench) or on the
Foundation Ridge Flat.  Out of 63 recorded sites in PA, the Clarion River
now rises to 3rd place in PA's Top Ten RI's:
 
Site                                          RHI
 
Cook Forest State Park              137.38
Fairmont Park                            132.27
Clarion River                               130.97
McConnells Mill State Park         130.85
Cemetery Run-Meadville, PA       129.23
Ridley Creek State Park              128.3
Swarthmore College                    127.55
Wintergreen Gorge                      127.53
Ricketts Glen State Park             126.29
Valley Forge National Park          123.83
 
 
Dale


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