From: Roger Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>When shooting any film, an external meter takes away the brain work associated with
>spot metering. To get a base exposure, >you put the meter dome in the same light as
>that hitting the subject and just push the button. That's it.
> >If birding is one of your hobbies, a more precise in-camera spot meter will do you
>more good than an external spot meter. >[snip]
>
I tried, with no success, to use an L-508 meter in incident
mode on birds last summer. The herons were about
130 feet away, in bright sun . . . a pretty good situation
for applying "sunny f16." However I recall the meter did not
give reasonable results. I am sorry I can not recall them
precisely but it seemed the direct sun falling on the dome
caused
crazy readings . . . akin to what you might expect if you
pointed a reflected spot meter directly at the sun. This is
not in
accord to how I understood incident metering to work. Does
anyone have any comment or suggestion as to what went
wrong here?
In any event, what worked best for me, was spot metering the
birds with the EOS3 through an EFL of 1120mm and
allowing an additional +2/3 stop in compensation. Those gray
feathers are actually not so dark as an 18% gray card.
--
Terence A. Danks
Nova Scotia, Canada
Wildlife and Nature Photography
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/danksta/home.htm
*
****
*******
***********************************************************
* For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see:
* http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm
***********************************************************
