> Hi folks,
>
> I'm new to the List  - about a week - and would like to ask a
> question - but first, a little background.
>
> I've been an Olympus OM system user for ~25 years but I'm thinking of
> changing to Canon because of increasing problems with focusing.  I
> shoot mainly landscapes ( see
> http://people.atl.mediaone.net/jjohnso4/images/index.htm  ) and
> flowers.  Right now my thinking is to start with an EOS-3, 24mm f2.8,
> 50mm f1.8, 100mm f2.8 macro and maybe add a 100-300 f5.6L at a later
> date.
>
> I'd like to hold the cost down in going to a new system and one thing
> I'm considering is a used body that will be ~$175 less than buying
> new.  Are there any known problems that show up on used EOS-3 bodies
> that I should look out far?  I'm thinking of things like the command
> dial problems with the A2/A2E.  If there are just tell me some
> keywords and I'll try looking up the issues in the archives.
>
> I've got a bunch of other questions but I'll leave y'all with just
> the one for now.
>
> Thanks,
> Johnny


Hi Johnny,

I sent this to you directly as it is rather windy and many on the list have
seen, heard and written it all before.  I hope you don't mind and if this is
too forward just say the word and in the future I'll only reply to the list.

Do you rely on the TTL metering of the body or do you use a handheld meter?
Do you think you need the additional electronics and gee-wiz features or
would you prefer a solid, reliable body with a well known track record?

For landscapes, portraits (people and flowers), family etc. all the bells
and whistles of the many of the newer bodies will just be un-used baggage
waiting to fail on you at the wrong moment.  The failures of the newer
bodies while rare will usually usually occur on that rare trip, far a field
where there is no way to get them fixed in time for them to be of service
during the remainder of said trip.  At this point, all of the rest of your
camera system no matter how advanced truly becomes useless baggage.  You
could always carry two bodies and I highly recommend it but this can more
than double the cost of what is an already expensive proposition with new
bodies.

IMO the best bodies for your application are the older pro bodies that were
first used to build up the current excellent reputation that the EOS line
enjoys.  I'd look into a pair of EOS 1n bodies or an EOS 1n and an EOS 1 as
a backup/alternate film body.  Good clean EOS 1n bodies can be had for
$500-$600 and the EOS 1 for a maybe $100 less in similar excellent to very
good condition.  I have only recently purchased a used EOS 1n with a booster
in 9+ condition with manual and original box and packing materials for $700.
A new EOS 1n body alone from B&H is $900 add a new booster to it and this is
a 1,250 camera.

There are several reasons that new EOS 1n bodies (even though no longer
current), still cost more than new EOS 3 bodies and that good clean used EOS
1 and EOS 1n bodies demand such a high price in the used marketplace.  For
one they have an amazing record of getting the shot.  Additionally the EOS 1
and EOS 1n bodies have a well known record of reliability in the field.  A
pair of EOS 1/1n bodies are virtually unbreakable with some care and are
relatively inexpensive to buy in the overall scheme of a good camera system,
good glass will cost much more than the bodies.  A used EOS 1 or EOS 1n in
good condition represents an excellent value and as such makes for an
excellent long term investment.  For these reasons pros and armatures alike
keep paying top dollar for good used examples.

Not that there is anything wrong with the EOS3 but IMO the EOS 1/1n is a
better body for many uses.  This is especially true now with the replacement
of the EOS 1n at the top of the EOS line with the EOS 1v body which has
caused the price of good used EOS 1 and EOS 1n bodies to soften slightly,
making them even better values.

I'm sure that there are some people with horror stories to tell of their
experiences from buying used camera bodies.  I doubt there are many of these
stories from those who bought with care, clean used EOS 1 or EOS 1n bodies.
Many people buy what looks pretty and not what has been well cared for.  The
outside of these bodies are easy to get marks on if used much but a clean
interior will be found on bodies that are well cared for.  I myself have
purchased several used EOS 1n bodies and boosters at very good prices and
have had excellent service from them all.

While I consider myself an armature, I shoot freelance and am a serious
shooter, currently I shoot 200-500 rolls of film a year depending on what
comes along.  I shoot mainly motor sports (CART, NASCAR, NHRA), local yacht
races, kid's sports, portraits etc. so my concerns for a camera body and
lens system are, speed in use, speed/reliability of focus, flash flexibility
and reliability of operation in the field.

I use a handheld meter often as cars are very reflective an brightly colored
and generally I have the same light as is falling on the subject.  Also the
personalities and pit crews all wear bright colors and a handheld is more
reliable here too.  The issue of exposure metering using TTL meters is IMO
very much up to the experience of the user and the complex matrix metering
systems for the most part get it right but I like my transparencies to be
exposed consistently throughout a race.  Transparency films as you know are
somewhat more demanding of accurate exposure.  It looks much better to have
1,000 shots that have consistent exposures vs. images with exposures all
over the map.

Your camera system needs don't seem so different, especially if you are only
going to carry one body.  The speed of focus and operation are less an issue
but it would seem to me that all other needs are the same, you want a
reliable body and lens system that works well.  Stick with Canon lenses,
they offer no weird nesses or compatibility issues as do most all of the
third party lenses.  Optically Sigma leads the third party lens pack but and
is almost as good as comparable Canon lenses optically.  Sigma lenses are
also less expensive but have the worst performance in terms of reliability
and compatibility.

I hope this helped you some.  If you have any other questions don't hesitate
to email.


Regards,

Chip Louie









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