A photo quality dye-sub print is 300 pixels per inch. My Canon 20D, at 3504x2336 pixels, should then make a print 11.68 by 7.78 inches In practice, however, people are forgiving, and the big industrial printers are helpful. Very few people would notice that a print is 200 pixels per inch, which moves that 20D up to 17.52 by 11.68 inches. A recent photograph I took of a large (6 foot tall) painting with my 20D printed well enough at 20 by 30 inches that the painter is using my digital image to make prints for gallery sales.
Most people don't want pictures larger than 8x10, so the 20D is good for wedding photography if you want to be close to 300 dpi and can frame things perfectly to eliminate cropping. Even if you have to crop, you will still have more than enough pixels to appease almost anyone. The 5D gives you a little more slop in your framing. If they do want bigger pictures, an uncropped 300D image actually looks quite good at 20 by 30 inches, the 20D will look a tiny bit better, and the 5d at almost 150 dpi, will look quite a bit better. Also, giant prints aren't usually looked at up close, so you can get away with less dpi. The other thing is sensor sharpness. The 300D, at 6MP, has larger pixels than the 350D or 20D. It looks sharper. The 20D is such a nicer camera though, that I didn't mind. The 5D has a larger sensor, so the pixels are quite a bit largre than the 20D, and it really shows. Also, if you really want to upsize, everyone I've ever talked to who uses Genuine Fractals is a rabid endorser of it. If you plan to upsize a lot, GF seems to be the way to go. On Wed, Dec 07, 2005 at 08:03:14AM -0700, Big Mike wrote: >I've made 20x30 prints from my Mark II and from the looks of it I could go >larger with no problem. -- void *(*(*schlake(void *))[])(void *); * **** ******* *********************************************************** * For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see: * http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm ***********************************************************
