On 3/3/06, Richard Jones, discombobulated, unleashed: >I've been offered an informal contract to photograph some paintings. I >am not a professional, but a keen amateur and would like to do the best >job I can. I have a 20D with a couple of L glass lenses but hope to be >able to borrow a selection of L zooms. > >Without expending money on a studio or expensive lighting equipment etc. >Can anyone recommend a cheap and cheerful way of getting the best >results? > >My employer (and friend) requires photos of both the full painting and >close-ups for capturing detail and brush strokes. > >I was thinking of using my 28mm f/1.8 prime lens on a tripod for the >full size pictures, then a TS-E 90mm for the macro work. For lighting >the best I could come up with was waiting for an overcast day then >shooting either outdoors or next to a large window. I have no idea >whether to use flash or not - I can rent a 550EX if necessary.
Use a longer lens and step back, otherwise you may find distortion a problem. If you have access to an L zoom, use that rather than the 28mm. Focal length set to about 70mm minimum (on your 20D). If you shoot in a standard house, close all curtains behind you, switch off any light sources behind you, these may cause hotspot reflections on the painting. As others have said, mount the camera on a tripod and keep the plane of the sensor parallel with the painting (hung on a wall - try not to use a display easel unless you are confident of putting the camera at the centre of the frame at 90 deg). Ideal lighting would be 2 flash heads well off to each side, scrimmed (diffused) with softboxes preferably. Failing this, and on a budget, bounce 2 flash heads off side walls. Don't just bounce a single flash off the ceiling, it won't work. If flash setups are not possible, use 2 tungsten lights well scrimmed and watch the colour balance! You want to be shooting at f8 through f16, use the middle of the aperture range on the lens, the optimum range of most lenses. Use a remote release with the camera (can you lock the mirror up on a 20D? do so) or failing that, the self timer. If the tripod is a cheapy, make sure the central extension (if fitted) is NOT extended, and weight the tripod down with something heavy (bag of sand suspended from the middle?)... I think your biggest challenge will be colour. Unless your system is calibrated properly, you may find the colours of the final image (prints?) may not match the original. Ask him if he minds mono prints ;-) There are plenty of references for calibrating systems - Google for them. HTH and good luck! Cheers, Cotty ___/\__ || (O) | People, Places, Pastiche ||=====| http://www.cottysnaps.com _____________________________ * **** ******* *********************************************************** * For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see: * http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm ***********************************************************
