Thank you Wilber and Henning for your replies.

I think the remark of Henning makes sense.

Indeed I used my 50/1.8 at f/22 (100ASA).

I recall that when I was using my 30D as a pinhole camera (e.g. http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/Canon_1ds_pinhole.html#starting) I also had the problem. And that more than f/22 ;-)

And indeed Wilber, Elinchrom are great tools.

Thanks guys !

Marc

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think I missed part of this so forgive if you said this already. What is the ASA you are using and what is the focal length of the lens. What is the aperture you're using. I too shoot with elinchroms (great tools) and you have a wide power range to work with. In past shootings I have had dirt problems show up in the studio and not on location. Main reason is the background. Studio backgrounds are usually solid or at least less busy in appearance than real life. So you tend to see things stand out more. I find a good hand air blaster worked around in the clean mode works best for cleaning off the dirt. Thanks Wilber ----- Original Message ----- From: "Henning Wulff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: EOS 30D dust


>Hi list,


I own a 30D and have a strange problem.

It seems there is dust on my sensor (or lens but I doubt that since I have the problem with different lenses) but only when I'm using long exposure. When t<1s theres no problem but if t>1s the image is "dirty".

Also when I'm using studioflash (Elinchrom) the dirt (it looks like a worm) is visible but using my EX380 there is no problem.

I wonder how this is possible.

Tnx for your help in advance.

Marc


I think you might check the EXIF data to see which apertures you used. A lot of dust specks are not really noticeable if you use a lens wide open, but since the dust resides on a surface a ways in front of the actual sensor, small apertures (leading to a large depth of focus) will show that dust.

With a large and powerful studio flash I'm sure you're using smaller apertures than with the 380, and when your camera is on a tripod you'll tend to stop down as there is no shutter speed (shake) penalty.

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