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on 6/3/03 8:30 AM, Alan Doherty at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I'm about to replace the metal panel on my Coupe, but would
> appreciate any advice as to the easiest way to remove the old
> panel.
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on 6/4/03 5:37 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] responded (in
part):
> Al;
>
> The other, sometimes difficult part, is that removing the taper pins
> that hold the control shafts in place can be a little tricky. I have
found
> that you can turn the wheel to a position where you can hold a bucking
bar on
> the shaft, next to the taper pin, and then use a rivet gun (air hammer)
to
> remove the taper pin. after you have removed the cotter pin and loosened
the
> nut. If you do not use good backing, the pins can be very difficult to
remove.
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Good day, everyone;
Initial removal of control shaft taper pins is usually undertaken with a
"whatever it takes" mind set. My inexpert application of "brute force"
resulted in pins unsuitable for further use. OK...they're cheap.
But beating on things upside down under a panel in place since the 1940's
puts one at great risk of eye damage. Few of us (not in the business of
aircraft repair on a daily basis) take the time and effort to wiggle back
out and get eye appropriate eye protection (goggles, not glasses) before
proceding with what the casual observer might term "extreme measures".
A friend of mine shared with me his infinitely safer and more satisfying
method of removal (you should still wear goggles). Apply penetrating oil
to
both ends of the assembly 24 hours in advance, if possible (this is not,
strictly speaking, necessary). Remove the cotter pin and loosens the nut,
backing it off so the outside edge is flush with the taper pin end.
Insert
an appropriately sized socket over the large end of the taper pin (to bear
on the control shaft) and apply an appropriately sized c-clamp.
Tightening
the screw will almost always force the taper pin to "release" the shaft,
after which things disassemble easily.
Try the Zen master approach, reserving the blacksmith's as backup. As the
woodworker should "measure twice, cut once", our use of force should
always
be limited in the overall to (1) that necessary, (2) only that necessary,
and (3) where necessary, and (4) only where necessary. Thinking through
the
possible reqults is usually time well invested before speaking or acting.
Enlighten yourself (insofar as possible) the Parts Manual, Service Manual
and Bulletins and Memoranda beforehand ("read the instructions"). The
first
time through I felt I had maybe 50% comprehension. With time and
experience
much more will "be revealed" to you.
Alan...you did it right. When you don't "get it" clearly, seek the
experience of others before proceeding.
In the "but first" department, a non-professional should clean and use
nail
polish, paint on a toothpick, or similar means to apply a single
identifying
mark on the large end of the taper pin (which is obvious), and on the side
of the control next to the hole the large end of the taper pin exited
(which
is not). Apply two daubs similarly on the other side before disassembly.
If also removing the U-Joints from the control column, place matching
marks
on the latter near each. You will then know the un-marked u-joint end
goes
toward the control column. It is almost always better to restore
mechanical
relationships "as they were" (if they worked properly before disassembly).
Regards.
Willliam R. Bayne
<_____|(o)|_____>
Copyright 2002)
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