"First, what do you have for a precharge resistor? I used a light bulb,
but a physical resistor will of course work, too."

I used a 60W "vibration resistant" light bulb (intended for garage door
openers).  Seems to work great.

"Second, what voltage do you see across the controller's B+ and B-
terminals? When the first contactor is closed, this voltage should rise
as the controller's capacitors charge thru the precharge resistor."

That seems to be happening correctly.  Final Voltage is around 120V, which
is also the pack resting voltage.

"Third, have you checked to see what DC voltage or current will pull in
your AC relay? Perhaps the resistor you have in series with the coil is
too large, so the coil current doesn't rise high enough to pull it in. "

This sounds like the problem, as I feared.  Nice to eliminate any other
possibilities, though.

It's going to be really difficult to get to those (although not impossible).
I don't remember the exact values, but it seemed to be a little below what
you used (since I have a lower voltage pack), and almost matched the coil
resistance.  Would it hurt to use a "fair radio" style charger to apply
different voltages to the coil or would I see false readings due to the
ripple?  That's about all I have at the moment that could do that.

Of course I could always "cheat" and just use a manual switch, which would
be triggered after the voltage comes up.  That would also give an additional
shutoff control in the passenger cabin.  I like the automatic operation,
though.

Thanks.


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