EV Digest 2570
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: fuses (WAS A.C. relays)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: fuses (WAS A.C. relays)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Accessory belts, was:Truck etc.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: A.C. relays
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Hybrid conversion to BEV
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Current Eliminator News
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) RE: Current Eliminator News
by "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Current Eliminator News
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Hydrogen Fuel Cell / Battery Hybrid
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: A.C. relays
by "Richard Millhouse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Hydrogen Fuel Cell / Battery Hybrid
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Aspire range and voltage drop data.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Current Eliminator News
by Gordon Niessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Hydrogen Fuel Cell / Battery Hybrid
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Electric Trains, for Fun. OT a tad
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Battery terminal corrosion prevention product
by Roger Daisley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Moving electric cars long distances
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Re: Moving electric cars long distances
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Back and a battery/ampergae question
by "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Back and a battery/ampergae question
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Re: adding accessory pulley to hardened shaft
by Andrew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Ed Gray & Perendev
by Sam Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Back and a battery/ampergae question
by "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Moving electric cars long distances
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Measuring Current
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Moving electric cars long distances
by "john kangas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Moving electric cars long distances
by Sharkey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
What about fuses? I have 250V (don't say AC or DC) 3AG 20A
ceramic fuses keeping tabs on lines coming from my battery pack.
When they say "250V" I have found that if you look up these fuses
in the manufacturer's spec sheets invariably they are rated for both DC and
AC.
There are also some 250V 1A and 5A glass fuses, like for going to
the DC-DC converter and to the RUSSCO heater. I understand the
ceramic is to avoid glass shattering with a high-voltage
interrupt, but the issue is whether the fuse will stop a DC arc.
As I said above, when I have looked them up, the ones marked
"250V" are rated for both AC and DC I haven't looked up every fuse for
every manufacturer.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> When they say "250V" I have found that if you look up these fuses
> in the manufacturer's spec sheets invariably they are rated for
> both DC and AC.
I have not found this to be true. Bussman and Littelfuse (two of the
largest suppliers) only have DC ratings on a small number of their
"250V" fuses. Even within a certain product line (like Bussman AGC) only
certain amp sizes ratings have DC ratings.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:51 29/01/03 -0800, you wrote:
>Excellent! Now I understand. I think it would be called a jack shaft in
>the US. (I wonder who Jack was, and if he knew Mr. Lay :-)
Aha! one of those cultural misunderstandings - Must have been that
international inventor Jack Lay, Whom the stuffy Old-Country referred to as
Mr Lay (and passed 'Lay shaft' on to the antipodes), when the more relaxed
escaped former coloinials called him Jack : )
>--
>Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
>814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
>Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
>leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 20:22 30/01/03 -0800, you wrote:
>Could someone remind me about using a.c. rated relays on a d.c. circuit?
.Do you put a big diode across the a.c. side of the relay? I've got a solid
state relay that I would like to use for my ceramic heater. Thanks,
>
>Uncle Rich in Central Oregon
>
If you have a Triac (thyristor) based solid-state relay (typical type) it
relies on the AC crossing to turn off - on DC it is likely to come on and
stay on.
Regards
James Massey
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has any done a Prius or an Insight? Has anybody cracked the code on the
Prius? I remember a couple of projects were started. Any finished? I
would love to have a full electric Prius. Lawrence Rhodes.....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
After a 4 month layoff the Current Eliminator is back on the track. The
dragster had to be completely torn down to update the chassis to the new 2003
specs. Since it was tig welded it was wise to remove all the electronics due
to possible damage to the electronics from the hi freq. Over the last 45 days
I reassembled the car with a few new updates of my own, namely a new NHRA
legal battery pack capable of running as many runs as necessary to compete
against the ices bracket racing.
The chassis was inspected last night at Firebird raceway and passed
with flying colors, it now has a 3 year chassis cert. After the inspection I
brought the CE out for easy on the pack 4 break-in runs in a matter of 90
minutes in which the car ran faster than it has in a long time. Single digit
times are days away. For those interested I will be at Firebird raceway on
Fri. nights and Speedworld motorplex on Saturdays dialing the car in for fast
runs and bracket racing until at least June.Mason Convey has gotten the
website up again at currenteliminator.net Thanks Mason Dennis Kill A WATT
Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Congratulations Dennis!!
You and the other racers are my inspiration. Please keep us up to date on
your exploits...
Steve
> The chassis was inspected last night at Firebird
> raceway and passed
> with flying colors, it now has a 3 year chassis cert. After
> the inspection I
> brought the CE out for easy on the pack 4 break-in runs in a
> matter of 90
> minutes in which the car ran faster than it has in a long
> time. Single digit
> times are days away. For those interested I will be at
> Firebird raceway on
> Fri. nights and Speedworld motorplex on Saturdays dialing the
> car in for fast
> runs and bracket racing until at least June.Mason Convey has
> gotten the
> website up again at currenteliminator.net Thanks Mason
> Dennis Kill A WATT
> Berube
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dennis,
Good luck with the new vehicle!
I look forward to updates on how the vehicle runs, hopefully Mason will
have the
time to keep the web site updated.
Rod - in Ohio, where people look very puzzled when they ask me about the
Current Eliminator
T-shirt. When I give them more detailed information on its
accomplishments they always
have a very puzzled look on their face. Very good EV advertising indeed!
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
After a 4 month layoff the Current Eliminator is back on the track. The
dragster had to be completely torn down to update the chassis to the new 2003
specs. Since it was tig welded it was wise to remove all the electronics due
to possible damage to the electronics from the hi freq. Over the last 45 days
I reassembled the car with a few new updates of my own, namely a new NHRA
legal battery pack capable of running as many runs as necessary to compete
against the ices bracket racing.
The chassis was inspected last night at Firebird raceway and passed
with flying colors, it now has a 3 year chassis cert. After the inspection I
brought the CE out for easy on the pack 4 break-in runs in a matter of 90
minutes in which the car ran faster than it has in a long time. Single digit
times are days away. For those interested I will be at Firebird raceway on
Fri. nights and Speedworld motorplex on Saturdays dialing the car in for fast
runs and bracket racing until at least June.Mason Convey has gotten the
website up again at currenteliminator.net Thanks Mason Dennis Kill A WATT
Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Where are you going to get thee energy to cool hydrogen into a liquid and
> pay for a super insulated container ??
>
> On Fri, 31 Jan 2003 21:15:11 -0800 "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> writes:
> > Rich Rudman wrote:
> > [snip]
> > > 1 Joule Caps
> > > 1 Amp hour Super caps, and Jell cells
> > > 1Kwhr AGMs lead acid
> > > 10 Kwhr. Stack of golf cart batteries
> > > 1Mega watt hour Couple of gallons of Unleaded.
> >
> > Don't you mean about 70kWh for the couple of gallons of unleaded.
> > Yeah, I get your point, it's highly energy dense - 70kWh for
> > about 15 lbs of fuel (I think gasoline is about 7lbs/gal,
> > right?).
> > >
> > [snip]
> > > Lets face it Gasoline and Deisel fuel store a heckava lot of
> > energy.
> > > Lets use the Liquid form of stored H2 so we can slowly change
> > the world,
> > > instead of throwing it all away and going the hardest way to
> > store H2,
> > > compressed gas.
> >
> > What about nanotubes and carbon fibers for H storage at 1 atm and
> > normal temperature? Seems like there is some potential for
> > progress there.
> >
> > Chuck Hursch
> > Larkspur, CA
> > NBEAA treasurer and webmaster
> > www.geocities.com/nbeaa
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> Visit www.juno.com
These little energy drains like cooling and storage is why I think H2
powered fuel cells are a long ways off for personal EVs. On Busses no
doubt. Still it's not very practicle when you look at gasoline and a 4
stroke.
Hey anybody on this list worked with a hydrocarbon reformer??? any
practicle hands on work????
Hey all you folks, Bummer of a day on the Shuttle.
Not much more to say....
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
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--- Begin Message ---
I think with the carbon forms of storage, you don't have to cool
the hydrogen or deal with a super-insulated container. You may
have to put in heat, though, to get the H back out.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Where are you going to get thee energy to cool hydrogen into a
liquid and
> pay for a super insulated container ??
>
> On Fri, 31 Jan 2003 21:15:11 -0800 "Chuck Hursch"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> writes:
> > Rich Rudman wrote:
> > [snip]
> > > 1 Joule Caps
> > > 1 Amp hour Super caps, and Jell cells
> > > 1Kwhr AGMs lead acid
> > > 10 Kwhr. Stack of golf cart batteries
> > > 1Mega watt hour Couple of gallons of Unleaded.
> >
> > Don't you mean about 70kWh for the couple of gallons of
unleaded.
> > Yeah, I get your point, it's highly energy dense - 70kWh for
> > about 15 lbs of fuel (I think gasoline is about 7lbs/gal,
> > right?).
> > >
> > [snip]
> > > Lets face it Gasoline and Deisel fuel store a heckava lot
of
> > energy.
> > > Lets use the Liquid form of stored H2 so we can slowly
change
> > the world,
> > > instead of throwing it all away and going the hardest way
to
> > store H2,
> > > compressed gas.
> >
> > What about nanotubes and carbon fibers for H storage at 1 atm
and
> > normal temperature? Seems like there is some potential for
> > progress there.
> >
> > Chuck Hursch
> > Larkspur, CA
> > NBEAA treasurer and webmaster
> > www.geocities.com/nbeaa
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
> Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> Visit www.juno.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
After 39 miles the 120v pack with a resting voltage of 132 and each of the
30, 8v batteries within 8.78 and 8.83v went from San Francisco to Berkeley
and then back to San Francisco via the inner Sunset area and the resting
voltage after many hours was 123.72. Temperature was between 60 and 70
degrees. Mostly freeway driving at 45 to 50 mph. Easily pulled all the
freeway hills at 45mph. Lawrence Rhodes...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you ever come to Houston, I will definitely swing by to take a look.
I also hope I get to see you on an ESPN hilight reel. Good luck.
At 05:39 PM 2/1/2003, you wrote:
After a 4 month layoff the Current Eliminator is back on the track. The
dragster had to be completely torn down to update the chassis to the new 2003
specs. Since it was tig welded it was wise to remove all the electronics due
to possible damage to the electronics from the hi freq. Over the last 45 days
I reassembled the car with a few new updates of my own, namely a new NHRA
legal battery pack capable of running as many runs as necessary to compete
against the ices bracket racing.
The chassis was inspected last night at Firebird raceway and passed
with flying colors, it now has a 3 year chassis cert. After the inspection I
brought the CE out for easy on the pack 4 break-in runs in a matter of 90
minutes in which the car ran faster than it has in a long time. Single digit
times are days away. For those interested I will be at Firebird raceway on
Fri. nights and Speedworld motorplex on Saturdays dialing the car in for fast
runs and bracket racing until at least June.Mason Convey has gotten the
website up again at currenteliminator.net Thanks Mason Dennis Kill A WATT
Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich,
I have worked directly with several big fuel cell companies supplying
blowers and pumps. I think there is real merit for a stationary fuel cell
in many applications. I don't think it is practical in the near future
for on road
vehicles. The only good thing to come out of the additional investment
will hopefully be
further refinement of the EV components of the vehicle. This should
benifit battery vehicles
and hopefully reduce the cost of controls and motors.
Rod
Rich Rudman wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Where are you going to get thee energy to cool hydrogen into a liquid and
pay for a super insulated container ??
On Fri, 31 Jan 2003 21:15:11 -0800 "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
writes:
Rich Rudman wrote:
[snip]
1 Joule Caps
1 Amp hour Super caps, and Jell cells
1Kwhr AGMs lead acid
10 Kwhr. Stack of golf cart batteries
1Mega watt hour Couple of gallons of Unleaded.
Don't you mean about 70kWh for the couple of gallons of unleaded.
Yeah, I get your point, it's highly energy dense - 70kWh for
about 15 lbs of fuel (I think gasoline is about 7lbs/gal,
right?).
[snip]
Lets face it Gasoline and Deisel fuel store a heckava lot of
energy.
Lets use the Liquid form of stored H2 so we can slowly change
the world,
instead of throwing it all away and going the hardest way to
store H2,
compressed gas.
What about nanotubes and carbon fibers for H storage at 1 atm and
normal temperature? Seems like there is some potential for
progress there.
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
NBEAA treasurer and webmaster
www.geocities.com/nbeaa
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
Visit www.juno.com
These little energy drains like cooling and storage is why I think H2
powered fuel cells are a long ways off for personal EVs. On Busses no
doubt. Still it's not very practicle when you look at gasoline and a 4
stroke.
Hey anybody on this list worked with a hydrocarbon reformer??? any
practicle hands on work????
Hey all you folks, Bummer of a day on the Shuttle.
Not much more to say....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All;
This is a bit off topic, but I enjoyed it. The new issue of Trains
Magazine, shameless promotion, has a great story, with lottsa great pix, of
the electrification story out here in the Big East. It's the March issue,
with a smiling Acela train on NY's famous Hell Gate Bridge. Sez" Super
Railroad, can't miss it.
It all hits close to home, my " flite "takes me over that route EVery
day, view is awsome, NYC skyline, and all that. But the article goes ionto
the electrification history, when and why it has evolved as it has. AEM-7's
HHP-8 and Acela train sets revield, my OTHER 'lectrics. Worth the 5 bux!
Well, $4.95, no more than a cuppa coffee at Starbux! Enjoy!
On trak, again.
Bob
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Hi all,
Well my wife and I just "took the plunge" and have arranged to purchase our
first (working) EV from another list member.
The car currently (pun intended) resides in sunny California, and she is going
to have to be moved to NC.
There are several moving companies that will do the job for a reasonable amount
of money, so that is not an issue, but I was wondering what we should do to make
the move as safe, and easy on the batts as possible?
The car has yellow tops.
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Well my wife and I just "took the plunge" and have arranged to purchase our
> first (working) EV from another list member.
>
> The car currently (pun intended) resides in sunny California, and she is going
> to have to be moved to NC.
>
> There are several moving companies that will do the job for a reasonable amount
> of money, so that is not an issue, but I was wondering what we should do to make
> the move as safe, and easy on the batts as possible?
>
> The car has yellow tops.
Make sure the main disconnect is off, or the fuses pulled, or breakers
off, or if all else fails, that the batteries are physically
disconnected.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I'm back on the list. Been awhile, but things have been busy here. Now
they are quieting down.
I have a question about battery capacity and range in the winter. Since the
temps here in MD have fallen below 45 degrees, range on my 94 Prizm (US
Electricar) has fallen through the floor like a rock.
The pack still charges up to 366 volts (50 Genesis 26ah; 2 strings of 25,
300 volt pack) and will read 320-322 after a charge and a 24 hour rest
period when checked with a 2.0 amp load (the computer). However when I hit
the gas the battery amperage drops fast. Down to 260 volts at 130 amps, and
a cut off at 140amps at 250 volts (the computer cuts back at 10.0 vpb under
load)
It's as if the batteries just can't put out max current (normally 200amps at
280 volts in the summer); limited to about 3*C (26amp/hr batteries*3*2
strings). Is this normal? The batteries are AGMs, and there is no battery
heater in the system.
Range now is about 12 miles, at 13amp/hours the pack is basically dropping
to 250 volts at 70amps discharge.
Another note: If I discharge the pack down 13a/h in the morning, then charge
(at 3amp/hrs @300 volts) the car will perk up to 200amps draw. Which makes
me think it is something to do with the temps, and not that I blew a battery
in a string and am running with 1/2 a pack.
Thoughts? My pack *is* old, no doubt about that. However I dropped the pack
in the fall, weeded out 10 batteries that were either reading 10.0 volts or
dead and replaced them with 10 of the best used Genesis batteries I could
test.
As far as driving, the Prizm is definately my daily driver.
Thanks!
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The real question is: how much capacity is left in each of those used
batteries ?
Is one of them alot less than any of the others or are all at relatively
the same capacity ??? One with substantially less may cause your
problem.
All lead acid batteries drop dramatically in capacity with decrease in
temperature unless you have an insulated and heated battery box.
On Sun, 2 Feb 2003 19:53:51 -0500 "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
writes:
> Well, I'm back on the list. Been awhile, but things have been busy
> here. Now
> they are quieting down.
>
> I have a question about battery capacity and range in the winter.
> Since the
> temps here in MD have fallen below 45 degrees, range on my 94 Prizm
> (US
> Electricar) has fallen through the floor like a rock.
>
> The pack still charges up to 366 volts (50 Genesis 26ah; 2 strings
> of 25,
> 300 volt pack) and will read 320-322 after a charge and a 24 hour
> rest
> period when checked with a 2.0 amp load (the computer). However when
> I hit
> the gas the battery amperage drops fast. Down to 260 volts at 130
> amps, and
> a cut off at 140amps at 250 volts (the computer cuts back at 10.0
> vpb under
> load)
>
> It's as if the batteries just can't put out max current (normally
> 200amps at
> 280 volts in the summer); limited to about 3*C (26amp/hr
> batteries*3*2
> strings). Is this normal? The batteries are AGMs, and there is no
> battery
> heater in the system.
>
> Range now is about 12 miles, at 13amp/hours the pack is basically
> dropping
> to 250 volts at 70amps discharge.
>
> Another note: If I discharge the pack down 13a/h in the morning,
> then charge
> (at 3amp/hrs @300 volts) the car will perk up to 200amps draw. Which
> makes
> me think it is something to do with the temps, and not that I blew a
> battery
> in a string and am running with 1/2 a pack.
>
> Thoughts? My pack *is* old, no doubt about that. However I dropped
> the pack
> in the fall, weeded out 10 batteries that were either reading 10.0
> volts or
> dead and replaced them with 10 of the best used Genesis batteries I
> could
> test.
>
> As far as driving, the Prizm is definately my daily driver.
>
> Thanks!
> Chris
>
>
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Subject: Re: Accessory belts, was:Truck (im)possibility, Regen on ADCs.
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 09:57:56 +1100
Assuming one managed to attach a pulley to the ADC shaft sitting
in the motor, there are two or three other things that one would
need to consider in a high-level view.
Assuming is right - my current motor (ex-industrial) has a hardened shaft -
drill? Tap? not a chance. Before you start to plan too far, give the end of
your motor shaft a rub with a file, if it skates off, it's hardened, if it
cuts, plan away!
Martin Sprocket makes some heavy duty clamp collars that might be just
the thing for a shaft you can't drill.
See <http://www.martinsprocket.com/2001/SecB.pdf> for details
--
Andrew King
Ann Arbor Michigan
technology is the answer, what was the question?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone have information about modern developments based off the
research of Edwin Gray? Has anyone heard of Perendev Power
Developments (http://www.perendev.co.za/contact/index.html)?
-Sam
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Good question. When I dropped the pack in October I did a simple test on the
batteries. Here was my methodology:
First I checked each battery at rest. Most read 12.8-12.9 ("fully" charged;
been sitting for about a month). About six of them read 10.00 volts
(indiciative of one dead cell). One read 8 volts, and one read 12.1 volts
(more later)
Second I checked the batteries under load. 60 watt headlight (5amps) for 30
seconds, then a voltage read. Most batteries read 12.2-12.3. Two read
11.9-12.1 and were replaced. The one that read 12.1 read "0" volts.
Totally dead battery.
I swapped the eight bad batteries out for eight used ones. These I had
gleaned from another car's pack of 40; they were the best of the bunch and
able to support a 30+ amp draw for over 40 minutes. While I didn't test all
of the batteries in the car (I spot-tested two) they were of equal ability.
So that's the state of the pack. I could in theory have blown up another
battery; the Prizm does pull a max of 200amp/hrs out of the pack so you're
talking 100amps/string or a 5C draw at max. This might be what kills Prizm
packs; one cell will fail, then another, then another. Hawker Genesis
batteries are good, but these are small batteries under a lot of stress.
My question though is how much loss should I expect from the batteries, and
is the loss concentrated at high current draws, possibly including dropping
max current <2C after only 25% discharge? Just how dramatic is the drop, esp
at high rates of discharge?
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: Back and a battery/ampergae question
> The real question is: how much capacity is left in each of those used
> batteries ?
> Is one of them alot less than any of the others or are all at relatively
> the same capacity ??? One with substantially less may cause your
> problem.
> All lead acid batteries drop dramatically in capacity with decrease in
> temperature unless you have an insulated and heated battery box.
>
> On Sun, 2 Feb 2003 19:53:51 -0500 "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> writes:
> > Well, I'm back on the list. Been awhile, but things have been busy
> > here. Now
> > they are quieting down.
> >
> > I have a question about battery capacity and range in the winter.
> > Since the
> > temps here in MD have fallen below 45 degrees, range on my 94 Prizm
> > (US
> > Electricar) has fallen through the floor like a rock.
> >
> > The pack still charges up to 366 volts (50 Genesis 26ah; 2 strings
> > of 25,
> > 300 volt pack) and will read 320-322 after a charge and a 24 hour
> > rest
> > period when checked with a 2.0 amp load (the computer). However when
> > I hit
> > the gas the battery amperage drops fast. Down to 260 volts at 130
> > amps, and
> > a cut off at 140amps at 250 volts (the computer cuts back at 10.0
> > vpb under
> > load)
> >
> > It's as if the batteries just can't put out max current (normally
> > 200amps at
> > 280 volts in the summer); limited to about 3*C (26amp/hr
> > batteries*3*2
> > strings). Is this normal? The batteries are AGMs, and there is no
> > battery
> > heater in the system.
> >
> > Range now is about 12 miles, at 13amp/hours the pack is basically
> > dropping
> > to 250 volts at 70amps discharge.
> >
> > Another note: If I discharge the pack down 13a/h in the morning,
> > then charge
> > (at 3amp/hrs @300 volts) the car will perk up to 200amps draw. Which
> > makes
> > me think it is something to do with the temps, and not that I blew a
> > battery
> > in a string and am running with 1/2 a pack.
> >
> > Thoughts? My pack *is* old, no doubt about that. However I dropped
> > the pack
> > in the fall, weeded out 10 batteries that were either reading 10.0
> > volts or
> > dead and replaced them with 10 of the best used Genesis batteries I
> > could
> > test.
> >
> > As far as driving, the Prizm is definately my daily driver.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Chris
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
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>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Fully charge the pack before the car is loaded.
Disconnect the pack once the car is loaded.
Leave instructions on the driver's seat on how to reconnect and disconnect
the battery so if the car needs to be offloaded and reloaded, someone will
be able to figure it out.
It would not be a bad idea to put an MSDS for the batteries there as well.
Reconnect the pack at the destination before unloading.
Having a main circuit breaker helps immensely with the connection and
disconnection convenience.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 12:41 PM
Subject: Moving electric cars long distances
> Hi all,
>
> Well my wife and I just "took the plunge" and have arranged to purchase
our
> first (working) EV from another list member.
>
> The car currently (pun intended) resides in sunny California, and she is
going
> to have to be moved to NC.
>
> There are several moving companies that will do the job for a reasonable
amount
> of money, so that is not an issue, but I was wondering what we should do
to make
> the move as safe, and easy on the batts as possible?
>
> The car has yellow tops.
>
> James
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
LEM USA
http://www.lemusa.com/lem/lemusa.nsf/?Open
sells sensors of many types and sizes.
We use quite a few of the 100 amp units in chargers but they make larger
ones up to 18000 amps.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 1:28 AM
Subject: Measuring Current
> Hi all,
>
> Quick little question.
> All of the current measuring devices I've seen for EVs involve measuring
across a shunt resistor.
> Does anyone use a clamp ammeter type setup?
> eg http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QM1565
> (Does a clamp ammeter work for DC or only AC?)
>
> Mark Fowler
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They may just decide to winch the thing on and off, which may not be a bad
idea. Just so long as there's a good solid spot for the winch strap to hook
into.
John Kangas
Fully charge the pack before the car is loaded.
Disconnect the pack once the car is loaded.
Leave instructions on the driver's seat on how to reconnect and disconnect
the battery so if the car needs to be offloaded and reloaded, someone will
be able to figure it out.
It would not be a bad idea to put an MSDS for the batteries there as well.
Reconnect the pack at the destination before unloading.
Having a main circuit breaker helps immensely with the connection and
disconnection convenience.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 12:41 PM
Subject: Moving electric cars long distances
> Hi all,
>
> Well my wife and I just "took the plunge" and have arranged to purchase
our
> first (working) EV from another list member.
>
> The car currently (pun intended) resides in sunny California, and she is
going
> to have to be moved to NC.
>
> There are several moving companies that will do the job for a reasonable
amount
> of money, so that is not an issue, but I was wondering what we should do
to make
> the move as safe, and easy on the batts as possible?
>
> The car has yellow tops.
>
> James
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>They may just decide to winch the thing on and off, which may not be a bad
>idea. Just so long as there's a good solid spot for the winch strap to hook
>into.
Except for many car haulers will have a "winch fee", which could be quite
costly if it has to be done a time or two. When I looked into having my EV
and Pusher hauled over the mountains after getting stranded 200 miles from
home, one hauler I contacted wanted a $60 winch fee to put it on the
trailer and another $60 to winch it off (I ended up renting a truck and
trailer and did it myself).
Much better to make the car driveable so that it can be handled more like
"regular" car. Be sure to give detailed (printed) instructions on how to
start the electric drive, what to expect in the way of sounds, how to shut
it down, etc. You're a lot more likely to get charged extra if the hauler
gets the idea that the vehicle is additional work or trouble, dangerous in
any way, or a liability to his insurance carrier.
-S
--- End Message ---
