EV Digest 2626
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) LRR Tires
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Subject: Re: Hot Rod Badsey HotScoot for sale on Ebay/Hot
Tiwanese scooters.
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) NBEAA March meeting (March 8, 2003, 10am-12noon, Michael Bearden) announcement
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: BMS Communication
by fred whitridge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: DCP controllers, update,stuff OT a little
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
by Gordon Niessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: LRR Tires
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) (no subject)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
12) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) (no subject)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Experience with VW based dune buggy conversions?
by Roger Daisley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: LRR Tires
by Alex Karahalios <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: DCP controllers, update-GE Shunt control
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: DCP controllers, update
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: LRR Tires
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: LRR Tires
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: DCP controllers, update-GE Shunt control
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) LVEVA meeting March 8th
by "Richard Furniss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Found a bunch of 22uF 16v caps exactly the same as the ones on the boards.
8 cents each. The IRF Z48 doesn't seem to have a cross. I did see on one
of the destroyed units had a number starting with I think a BU or BL. The
rest was blown off. These two parts seem to be the most likely parts to
blow on the mark ones. Anybody help me with a number? Lawrence
Rhodes........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>
> Found a bunch of 22uF 16v caps exactly the same as the ones on the boards.
> 8 cents each. The IRF Z48 doesn't seem to have a cross. I did see on one
> of the destroyed units had a number starting with I think a BU or BL. The
> rest was blown off. These two parts seem to be the most likely parts to
> blow on the mark ones. Anybody help me with a number? Lawrence
> Rhodes........
Lawrence, It's a IRF Z48, any 60 volt TO-220 mosfet will do. There are
hundreds.
So far your box of blown Regs here are REALLY Zorched. Fets are gone and
logic is gone. CLearly 48- 60 volts got inside the voltage regulated
area, and POOF!.
Like I said I have new ones ready to ship. I have boxes that are not
worth my time at the moment to fix.
I can give you a complete BOM of the Mk1 s and the MK2s.
There should be NO guess work here, just get the right stuff.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
I have been doing research on LRR tires suitable for my EV under
construction. (88 Fiero ). I have checked with all the local tire suppliers
and have mostly gotten the deer in the headlights response. There are several
hi pressure tires available (44 PSI) but no one seems to have a clue about
rolling resistance. When I explain that they are for an electric car I get
more intense blank stares. Most dealers seem to want to help but they seem to
know nothing about the rubber compound their respective brands are made of.
So far my research has revealed the following;
1 Hi pressure is better because the sidewalls flex less and require less
energy however the ride is rougher.
2 Rubber compounds with more silica as compared to carbon have less
rolling resistance . ( I have no idea why)
3 Sipeing tires makes the tread deform to road irregularities easier,
create less heat and may decrease rolling resistance.
4. Tread patterns don't appear to have any rime or reason on hi
pressure tires.
Has anyone found LRR tires that are still available?
Does anyone know what features I should look fore to find the lowest
rolling resistance?
Any information will be appreciated.
Thanks
Pat Sweeney
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The Morad 1500 is a kick-butt scooter. With the hub motor, the torque is
instantaneous. I repaired a demo model for SkooterCommuter recently. It had
a broken switch and the wiring connectors for the potentiometer were loose.
The Morad is really a blast to ride and I really like the retro look but
there are some problems
1) The scooter is top heavy. The batteries are stacked on top of each other.
3 stacked on each other and one behind. If you loose your balance moving it
around it can get away from you.
2) Even though the speedo says MPH it really reads KPH. I noticed that when
I was riding around doing 65 on the residential streets in my neighborhood
3) The mirrors are worthless unless you want to see your belly button.
You'll need to go to a cycle shop and get some longer ones.
To lighten this scooter up we were thinking of replacing the heavy lead
batteries with the Nickle-Zinc ones similar to the batteries used on the
Lepton Oxygen scooter.
Chip Gribben
Freelance Scooter Tech
SkooterCommuter
http://www.skootercommuter.com
On 3/1/03 11:02 PM, "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 06:10:13 -0800
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Hot Rod Badsey HotScoot for sale on Ebay/Hot Tiwanese scooters.
>
> Chinese scooters might be what you need. One had a 372 pound weight
> capacity. http://www.evfinder.com/twowheel.htm They seemed to climb hills
> well and have good range. Maybe this is what you need. Anyone got the 1700
> buck Morad 1500 or simular scooters from Taiwan? What are your impressions?
> JC Penny seems to be out of them now. Lawrence Rhodes......
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 5:14 AM
> Subject: RE: Hot Rod Badsey HotScoot for sale on Ebay
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The March meeting of the North Bay Chapter of the Electric Auto
Association will be held at Sonoma State University on Saturday
March 8th from 10am - 12 noon.
Our featured speaker will be Michael Bearden, production manager
for the Center for Performing Arts at Sonoma State University.
Michael's first EV was constructed as a stage prop for a
production at the Person Theatre and he now drives a BMW which he
converted to electric propulsion. We hope to have a range of
electric vehicles on display, including Michael's BMW and the
campus Th!nk Neighbor.
Location:
Parking Lot 'E' (adjacent Person Theatre),
Sonoma State University,
1801 East Cotati Avenue,
Rohnert Park, CA 94928-3609
Date: 8th March from 10am-12 noon
Contact: Michael Bearden
Tel: 707 664 2565
Web site: http://www.sonoma.edu
Driving directions:
The main entrance to the Sonoma State University campus is on
East Cotati Avenue. This can be reached from either Rohnert Park
Expressway, I-116 or Petaluma Hill Road. Once on campus (Sequoia
Way) take the first right and Person theatre/Lot E is on your
left.
Map:
http://www.sonoma.edu/university/maps/persontheatre.html
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
NBEAA treasurer and webmaster
www.geocities.com/nbeaa
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
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[Ooops, this is a repost since the previous msg had some offending HTML
in it and the digest ate it. Sorry]
James Jarrett wrote:
If it works in all that noise, there is another useful
side
effect. With a
wireless bridge (which are getting cheaper every day)
you could
actually set
up a system where by as soon as you plug in your car
at home, it
starts
communicating with your home computer. If there is a
problem your
computer
inside the house could alert you to it.
Hello:
this is exactly what I have now done. Been working on it start/stop for
several months and finally moved everything off the bench and
out to the garage.
I have one of Lee Hart's Balancers connected to my 10 YT's and the house
battery. The balancer can also turn off the offboard boat
anchor transformer based charger when the highest batt goes above a
Balancer determined setpoint. And yes, Rich, since this pack
is still fairly young and my mishaps allow it to get out of balance, I
put one of your regs on the soldiers who usually get charged first.
This has me juicing up the lowest batts with the Balancer and clamping
the highest batts with Rudman Regs, while the charger does its
thing. The Doctors from Manzanita Micro and Sartell,MN making
housecalls to my Connecticut pack......
Back to my wireless doings. Lee's Balancer is based on the Basic STAMP
II. It displays my individual voltages on a 4x20 vaccuum
flourescent display, locally out in the garage. I have it measuring each
battery's voltage, charging the lowest batt for two minutes and
then repeating. Lee has a "magic algorithm" which works thru the pack
more slowly-- but that's no fun: lots of charging and no action
with all the neato lights and relays. My Balancer is actually capturing
a lot more data than I currently display, like which battery has
reached a setpoint first tripping off the offboard charger, the # of
balancing cycles being spent on each battery, etc. (For more on the
Balancer, see Roger Stockton's balancer web site at
http://www.geocities.com/sorefeets/balancerland/)
I have plugged the programming serial port of the Balancer into a java
based TINI single board computer. (see www.systronix.com
for TINI's, boards, adapters, etc. I am a happy customer.) The TINI
has three serial ports, an ethernet port, clock, 1 MB of RAM,
CAN interface, and one wire interface. The TINI is plugged into a
Linksys WET11 wireless link which allows me to talk to the
TINI, and thru it listen to the Balancer out in the garage. The Linksys
in the garage is about 50', one floor and several walls and
doors away from its indoor mate. it tells me its signal strength is
80%. (It also found my neighbors wireless link. Hmmmm, maybe he
won't mind transmitting my Balancer data over his network....)
I have built some java code on the TINI which listens to the Balancer's
output, parses it, drops it into a web page, and responds to
requests from a browser on the LAN, or via my hub plugged into the cable
modem, via a request from the WAN to the TINI in the
DMZ. My present web page displays the voltages of all 10 traction
batteries and the house batt, the number of Balancing cycles
each bat has received, the ambient temp, and the time. I intend to
display the status of the offboard charger (on/off), the output of the
eMeter, temps on each individual battery, etc. Now that the data zings
via 802.11 to indoors, it can be captured and logged...but
heck, this is too much code slinging, wire pulling, and balancer
soldering under the watchful and very helpful gaze of Roger Stockton
and Lee Hart who have led this newbie into newfound BMS Monitoring
bliss. Time to unplug all this and go driving! I reccomend
the Balancer, the Regs, the STAMP, the TINI, and the Linksys WET11 for
those who are thirsty for data and don't want to stand
around shivering in the garage to get it!
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>
> Sure would be nice if DCP had an Eastern Shop to handle these things,
So
> yu wouldn't hafta go through two weaks wait the ship the thing out an'
back.
I remember having to send a Zapi back to Italy , now that took some time .
back then I use to " have one being fixed and one ordered and one working "
alot of the stuff was kind of my fault ,like thinking because Curtis said
"weather resistive " I could have it under the bed of the truck .
I've been to a few RR museum's and love them . Some fine stuff made
back them. Nice thing about trains is not bats . I like the one's with the
wires over head . all the power you want with out the weight of any bats ,
now that's a EV dream come true. finding a public plug is almost as good/
. After I get somebody talked into driving one of my cars I give them the
safety talk and watch there face's get a little white when I start talking
about what to do If the controller fails . I of course bring up the fact
about how dangerous gas is and this helps a little . That's one nice thing
about the DCP controller , if you got the relay hooked right the controller
will shut it off if there is a problem / .
enjoyed your train stories .
Steve Clunn.
> A sorta chicken an' egg thing. With, maybe 3 or 3 DCP's operating in CT, I
> can't see Damon setting up a shop here.Sure be nice when Auto Zone, Pep
Boys
> and NAPA offered EV stuff; SALE! Prezes' Day!! Rebuilt Curti; 500 amps,
$109
> Ea, with blown out trade! Gauranteed one year, EVen if used for racing!
> Sunday papers would have a section on do it yurself EV stuff, articles by
J
> . Wayland, and Dennis Berube, or Bill Dube, on Two Wheels. Dream on, Bob,
> yur all saying.
>
> Last summer when I had a controller failure, hot wired about 60 volts
of
> the battery pack, tucked my sweatshirt atop the line switch, closing the
> hood made contact, pulling hood latch shut it down, like at a stop lite.
> Dropping the hood, away we go! Godamn inconvient controller, as bad as my
> early daze with SCR controllers that would miss comute, lock on, and off
you
> go at full power! Standing on the brake, easing car up aganst SOMETHING
> strong enough to hold car from going, disconnection or pulling fuze! Great
> Zorches, as yu break a zillion amps motor current, and stop the smoking
> brakestand style burnout. Sure impresses the on lookers!
>
> But we know better , now, don't we? Like any RR electric powered
train,
> you MUST have a line switch big enough to handle breaking locked rotor
> current, or close to it. That angry " SPLOCK" you hear if an older
electric
> subway or trolley car emits if shut off right after starting, like the
> motorman stops for a late customer. Although the newer RR stuff, drops the
> load softly, shutting off vis solid state electronics, to open contactors
> dry. Those of us old guyz remember all that. Nice blue flash under the
car,
> as the line switch often had arc chutes under the car. The power air
> operated secondary contactors on the old Pennsy GG-1 locos were music to
> your ears. As they were on the secondary side of the transformer, big as a
> VW van, that was your speed control, NO Solid state here, 21 tap offs gave
> you plenty of running points.When you ran from that end the switchgear was
> in your cab end, a door with little glass porthole, separated you from the
> pyrotechnics, but not the sound. Of course the happy hum of 12 traction
> motors, right under the floor, two per axle, made great music. Quite a
> contrast to the Microsoft run Acela! I could often FIX a limping GG-1 but
> nowadaze if the Acela dies, ya need a techy with a laptop to set things
> right!Ah POO! I liked the GG-1 better, you KNEW you were on a locomotive,
> with all the great sounds. Hell, was never towed in with a G! G's towed a
> hellova lot of new stuff in, though, when it broke. Alas, last G ran in 81
> for Jersey Transet, who gave it a fitting retirement run and ceremony.
They
> set tha standard by which electrics were judged, pulled the Pennsy, 138
> strong, through WW 2, setting tonnage and passenger hauling records that
> still stand. I feel honored to have run then before they got away.
>
> Times change! How many guyz remember the late great Pennsylvania
RR?EVen?
> Swallowed up in the doomed Penn Central merger in 1967, they went belly
up,
> later on, but the Emron thing was more money, I'm sure?Merged into the
> Conrail, shedding money losing passemger biz, Conrail was a roaring
sucess,
> concentraiting on the freight biz, which duz make money. Passenger rail
went
> to Amtrak, and the regional commuter outfits, like Metro North, MBTA
Metra,
> and a whole alphabet soup of train operators. One thing in common, like
the
> electric car biz, NOBODY makes money hauling passengers, although Metro
> North packs them in. Don't know how they lose money, but they SAY they do.
>
> Forgotten in todaze scramble of how to finance Pass. rail, is the
great
> electrical achievments brough forth by the early days of electrification,
> going through alota problems that the EV fraturnity is facing today. Regen
> braking, motor comuntation, control stiff, it was ALL solid state, back
> then. Massive solid brass and copper, contactors, resistance grids, all
this
> picturesque hardware. Still waiting for your enjoyment at RR museums most
> everywhere. You EV'ers may have fun joining an operating RR museum.
learning
> to run classic RR stuff, and meet other interesting, like EV guys, people
> that have fun overcoming the challanges of getting bygone equipment to
run.
> Especially one running electric stuff, trolley cars and other electric
> stuff. This is a shameless plug for RR museums EVerywhere. Good guyz,
doing
> a great thing to preserve our heratage, stop by, say 'Hi" with an EV all
the
> better! Have many Waylandsque stories in RR projects moving trolleys to
> museums, and getting them to run in their new home. Using stuff I learned
in
> RR museums, built working EV's Later WORKING in an RR shop, and later
> getting to run them. Best Job in the world! Always wanted to be an
Engineer
> as a kid.They even PAY you to do it!
>
> OK, Sorry, got off topic a bit, back to the Evercell, and BMS's of
> late.
>
> Off trak, on trak
>
> Bob
>
>
>
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2511827106&category=4666
is for some IRFZ44N, with 55V rating. I think the "v" suffix has a 60 V rating.
There are also a bunch of other TO220 mosfets on ebay, usually sold in
lots of 50 or more.
There was a lot of 5500 IRFZ 48V TO-220 devices on there last week.
Opening bid was $500. That's a lot of battery regulators.
Otherwise there is always Digi-Key
HTH
Seth
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>
> Found a bunch of 22uF 16v caps exactly the same as the ones on the boards.
> 8 cents each. The IRF Z48 doesn't seem to have a cross. I did see on one
> of the destroyed units had a number starting with I think a BU or BL. The
> rest was blown off. These two parts seem to be the most likely parts to
> blow on the mark ones. Anybody help me with a number? Lawrence
> Rhodes........
--
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not a bad price at about 65 cents each after shipping (at current bid
price). Digikey is $1.66 each plus shipping. And if you don't need 47,
you can always sell the rest on eBay. :-)
At 08:20 AM 3/2/2003, you wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2511827106&category=4666
is for some IRFZ44N, with 55V rating. I think the "v" suffix has a 60 V
rating.
There are also a bunch of other TO220 mosfets on ebay, usually sold in
lots of 50 or more.
There was a lot of 5500 IRFZ 48V TO-220 devices on there last week.
Opening bid was $500. That's a lot of battery regulators.
Otherwise there is always Digi-Key
HTH
Seth
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>
> Found a bunch of 22uF 16v caps exactly the same as the ones on the boards.
> 8 cents each. The IRF Z48 doesn't seem to have a cross. I did see on one
> of the destroyed units had a number starting with I think a BU or BL. The
> rest was blown off. These two parts seem to be the most likely parts to
> blow on the mark ones. Anybody help me with a number? Lawrence
> Rhodes........
--
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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--- Begin Message ---
Michelin MXV4 Energy tires are supposed to be LRR.
Bridgestine Potenza RE92 are LRR and are OEM on the Honda Insite and
TOyota Prius as I recall.
Or you can contact Bill Egan at Goodyear: [EMAIL PROTECTED] He is in
charge of research or something and knows all about LRR tires.
He will want to know the Max Gross vehicle weight (i.e weight of EV plus
you, any passengers, groceries, etc.), wheel size, and estimated weight
on each axle (weight distribution).
He will respond with the best tire Goodyear makes for your vehicle.
On Sat, 2003-03-01 at 23:41, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi All,
> I have been doing research on LRR tires suitable for my EV under
> construction. (88 Fiero ). I have checked with all the local tire suppliers
> and have mostly gotten the deer in the headlights response. There are several
> hi pressure tires available (44 PSI) but no one seems to have a clue about
> rolling resistance. When I explain that they are for an electric car I get
> more intense blank stares. Most dealers seem to want to help but they seem to
> know nothing about the rubber compound their respective brands are made of.
> So far my research has revealed the following;
> 1 Hi pressure is better because the sidewalls flex less and require less
> energy however the ride is rougher.
> 2 Rubber compounds with more silica as compared to carbon have less
> rolling resistance . ( I have no idea why)
> 3 Sipeing tires makes the tread deform to road irregularities easier,
> create less heat and may decrease rolling resistance.
> 4. Tread patterns don't appear to have any rime or reason on hi
> pressure tires.
> Has anyone found LRR tires that are still available?
> Does anyone know what features I should look fore to find the lowest
> rolling resistance?
> Any information will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Pat Sweeney
>
--
EVDL
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set ev mail
set ev mail ack
query ev
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--- Begin Message ---
Rich, I've got one that zorched, so I would like the list, also. It's the
mosfet on mine, at least.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
> Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> >
> > Found a bunch of 22uF 16v caps exactly the same as the ones on the
boards.
> > 8 cents each. The IRF Z48 doesn't seem to have a cross. I did see on
one
> > of the destroyed units had a number starting with I think a BU or BL.
The
> > rest was blown off. These two parts seem to be the most likely parts to
> > blow on the mark ones. Anybody help me with a number? Lawrence
> > Rhodes........
>
> Lawrence, It's a IRF Z48, any 60 volt TO-220 mosfet will do. There are
> hundreds.
>
> So far your box of blown Regs here are REALLY Zorched. Fets are gone and
> logic is gone. CLearly 48- 60 volts got inside the voltage regulated
> area, and POOF!.
>
> Like I said I have new ones ready to ship. I have boxes that are not
> worth my time at the moment to fix.
>
> I can give you a complete BOM of the Mk1 s and the MK2s.
> There should be NO guess work here, just get the right stuff.
>
> --
> Rich Rudman
> Manzanita Micro
> www.manzanitamicro.com
> 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
subscribe ev Pat Sweeney
set ev mail
set ev mail ack
query ev
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* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
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The Bridgestone Potenzas RE92 for the Prius are the XL version (only
comes in 175/65SR14 84S XL). They have a max pressure of 50PSI. The
other RE92s have a max pressure of 44PSI. The RE92 XL tires also have a
max load rating of 1102lbs and revolutions per mile (RPM) of 902.
Does anyone actually bother with the RPM when doing a conversion? It
seems that given each tire's max load rating and RPM, someone would be
hard pressed into finding any suitable conversion tire.
Alex Karahalios
On Sunday, March 2, 2003, at 08:25 AM, Peter VanDerWal wrote:
Bridgestine Potenza RE92 are LRR and are OEM on the Honda Insite and
TOyota Prius as I recall.
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--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I have a full set of power curves (armature verse shunt field, with
> RPM, torque, etc.) from GE for all shunt voltages from 5 volts up to
> 42 volts for some unknown reason as the shunt windings will fry if
> they see 36 volts.
Bill, you seem to have the impression that the field voltage can be
(say) 24 volts forever, but burns out instantly at 36v. It doesn't work
that way.
The field winding is basically a resistor. It has a wattage rating. Any
voltage that produces less than that many watts of heat, you can apply
indefinitely. It won't heat up past its maximum insulation temperature.
But, you CAN apply higher voltages. The higher the voltage, the shorter
the time before it overheats. Notice that the data sheet Rod Hower just
posted showed 25 amps on the field for 4 seconds.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Ok, now for the series inductor.
> The old 96 volt PMC Controller required a 100 uH series inductor
That's about right for a Curtis controller, too. 100uH is about the
minimum inductance for the current limit to work.
Remember that this is the TOTAL inductance you need. The armature has
some inductance, so the series inductor won't need to be quite this big.
> Where could I get an inductor of that rating that would handle at
> least 250 amps and not be extremely large, heavy, or expensive?
> Do you need to protect yourself from the electromagnetic field
> generated from the inductor?
Any transformer or inductor manufacturer can easily make one for you.
They all have good "one-off" prototyping capabilities, because
esentially all transformers and inductors are custom-built to meet the
customer's specs.
Now, what they would charge for it will be interesting. It might be
free, and it might be a fortune. It won't take more than an hour or two
of labor, or more than $20 worth of materials -- but they know how, and
you don't!
As for size: I'd guess a 100uH at 250amp continuous inductor will be
about 4" on a side, and weigh around 20 lbs.
As for an external magnetic field, that all depends on the type of core
used. If you just took a rod or bar of iron and wrapped wire around it,
it would have a large external field. If the iron forms a closed path,
like a conventional "EI" or toroid core, then the external field is
minimal.
If you'd like to experiment, find a transformer of about the size
mentioned. Take it apart, and stack all the E laminations together, and
all the I laminations together. Get some thick copper sheet, like 3"
wide x 1/8" thick, and wind a coil that fits around the center leg of
the E stack. Use sheets of mylar or fish paper to insulate the turns
from each other. Put the I stack on the E stack, and measure the
inductance. Add pieces of mylar or fish paper between the Es and Is to
create an air gap to reduce the inductance to the desired value.
> Will the same series inductor work with any of these controllers
> (different frequency controllers) for this GE motor?
Pretty much. If a transformer manufacturer makes your inductor and you
tell him it will be switching at 15 KHz, he'll use thin high-frequency
laminations. If you build your own inductor out of an old 60 Hz
transformer, the thick laminations will be lossy at 15 KHz and get hot.
It will still work, but you'll probably need a fan or other source of
airflow over the core.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> Michelin MXV4 Energy tires are supposed to be LRR.
>
> Bridgestine Potenza RE92 are LRR and are OEM on the Honda Insight and
> Toyota Prius as I recall.
However, the Potenza has a very low tread wear rating of 160 -- 20-30k
miles is about all you'll get with this tire.
> Or you can contact Bill Egan at Goodyear: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Bill is a great contact. At Michelin Engineerin, you can also try Jim
Knowles or Jorge Pena at (864) 458-4369 (as of 4/7/99).
Note that a particular tire name (like MXV4) is applied to a huge number
of tires, with different characteristics. Often, car manufacturers get a
version of that tire that is low rolling resistance, but tire stores
carry only the high rolling resistance versions. You have to get the
specific product code (from Goodyear or Michelin or whoever). The tire
store probably won't carry it, and will have to order it. Or, you can
get used tires from a junkyard from a wrecked new car to get the special
low rolling resistance versions.
Here's another trick that might work. I recently bought a VW Eurovan.
They use 15" or 16" tires with a very high load rating (98H to 102H) and
reinforced sidewalls to carry the load. For example, mine has Dunlop SP
225/60R16 102H tires, with a 55psi max pressure. Of course, such tires
ride like a truck. Eurovan owners have reported buying regular tires of
the same size to get a softer ride, but mpg drops 5-10%. Thus, I'm
guessing that tires with a high load rating, reinforced sidewalls, and
high max pressure ratings are also low rolling resistance.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
talk with Bill Egan at Goodyear. He should be able to help you out.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] phone 330-796-2715
Seth
On Sunday, March 2, 2003, at 01:41 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi All,
I have been doing research on LRR tires suitable for my EV under
construction. (88 Fiero ). I have checked with all the local tire
suppliers
and have mostly gotten the deer in the headlights response. There are
several
hi pressure tires available (44 PSI) but no one seems to have a clue
about
rolling resistance. When I explain that they are for an electric car I
get
more intense blank stares. Most dealers seem to want to help but they
seem to
know nothing about the rubber compound their respective brands are
made of.
So far my research has revealed the following;
1 Hi pressure is better because the sidewalls flex less and
require less
energy however the ride is rougher.
2 Rubber compounds with more silica as compared to carbon have
less
rolling resistance . ( I have no idea why)
3 Sipeing tires makes the tread deform to road irregularities
easier,
create less heat and may decrease rolling resistance.
4. Tread patterns don't appear to have any rime or reason on hi
pressure tires.
Has anyone found LRR tires that are still available?
Does anyone know what features I should look fore to find the
lowest
rolling resistance?
Any information will be appreciated.
Thanks
Pat Sweeney
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lee,
I guess that is why the same engineer at GE that told me the shunt field
voltage rating was only 36 vdc even though the armature was 96 volts also
said that I needed a $ 3000 GE Controller to operate this $ 2300 GE 96
vdc 250 amp shunt wound motor (that did not have anything about the shunt
voltage rating on the name plate or in any literature received with the
motor).
My old Westinghouse 230 vdc 10 hp Shunt Wound motor operated fine on a
240 volt battery pack (twenty 12 v deep cycle marine batteries) for both
armature and shunt field.
Menlo Park III,
Bill
On Sun, 02 Mar 2003 10:29:02 -0800 Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
writes:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > I have a full set of power curves (armature verse shunt field,
> with
> > RPM, torque, etc.) from GE for all shunt voltages from 5 volts up
> to
> > 42 volts for some unknown reason as the shunt windings will fry if
> > they see 36 volts.
>
> Bill, you seem to have the impression that the field voltage can be
> (say) 24 volts forever, but burns out instantly at 36v. It doesn't
> work
> that way.
>
> The field winding is basically a resistor. It has a wattage rating.
> Any
> voltage that produces less than that many watts of heat, you can
> apply
> indefinitely. It won't heat up past its maximum insulation
> temperature.
>
> But, you CAN apply higher voltages. The higher the voltage, the
> shorter
> the time before it overheats. Notice that the data sheet Rod Hower
> just
> posted showed 25 amps on the field for 4 seconds.
> --
> Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
> 814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
> Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard
> Cohen
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
My apologies to the list for my little mishap the other day. It was at best, a very
awkward way to resume posting to the EVDL. I was writing what was supposed to be a
private
email to Bob Rice, and had my wireless mouse connected to my Mac iBook laptop here at
the
kitchen table. I had hit the 'reply to' button and was readying a personal response to
Bob's post from the EVDL, and had not yet changed the 'send-to' address to his
personal
one, so it still had the EVDL address in the address box.....my wife accidentally
bumped
the table pretty hard, the wireless mouse was jolted, and it's cursor, somehow,
landed
right on top of the 'send' button at the exact time it also inadvertently clicked
itself...poof!!! .... away the unfinished email went...to the EVDL.....spelling and
grammatical errors left uncorrected, and with comments not intended to be shared...oh
well.
I do think, as part of that 'lamo' post of mine started to say, that Bob Rice is a
breath
of fresh air on this discussion list, and his voice of common sense helps balance the
'hi
tech noise' that many times, runs right over the top of things, often missing the
entire
point. Thank you, Bob, for being here, and thanks to everyone who in response to my
faux pa the other day, sent me private emails urging me to renew my posting to the
EVDL.
Anyway...I�m back, and what better way to return, than with a good� ol two part
Walandesque tale? Let the story telling begin.....
Like many I know of in today�s slow economic times, my work situation has been in
limbo...read that, �unemployed�. I�ve been looking for work, of course, and had been
applying at various places. Knowing my situation, my EV and hybrid friend, Damon Henry,
had arranged for me to drive Blue Meanie up to his place to meet 'Mark', who I was
told,
was looking forward to meeting me and my fun EV. Mark had a possible position for me,
working with an electrical distributing company.
The last time I took the 16 mile drive from my place to Damon's in neighboring
Vancouver,
Washington, the charging thing for my short range EV didn't work out so well, and the
Henry's outdoor 120 vac outlet was limited by a wimpy 15 amp circuit breaker. We
eventually figured it out and found a more robust 20 amp circuit, but only after
available
charging time was lost. This time, Damon was determined to impress me with real
charging
juice, and vowed to provide full current for me, courtesy of their upstairs dryer
outlet .
I brought a new 240 vac style adapter I made that would allow me to connect things up,
and two long 240V extension cords. One is a twist lock-to-twist lock 25 ft. cord, that
I had just made up a few days ago. A few years back, I had purchased a soft and very
pliable, powder blue colored 10 gauge 120 vac power cord, with bright yellow molded
ends...talk about an overkill 120 vac cord! It ended up not getting used too much, as
I
have lots of Wayland-made 12 gauge 120 vac cords to use that handle just about the max
current you can suck from a 20 amp wall socket, anyway, so the 10 gauge cord has just
hung
in my shop, largely unused, Most of the black colored 10-3 power cord you can buy, is
thick and heavy, and not too pliable, but this blue one is super easy to handle, and
lighter, too. I clipped off both molded ends (it was hard to purposefully mutilate
such a
pristine cord), and threw them away, then assembled a male L6-30 twist lock to one end,
and a matching female twist lock to the other....presto!....an instant, super
flexible, 25
ft. 30 amp 240 vac extension cord for the Meanie. I was glad I had clipped off the
ends, as
now, this 10 gauge cord had a real purpose. I also made an adapter that is essentially
a
four prong type 240 vac plug with a short two foot cord that terminates with a female
twist
lock, but I use just three of the four prongs of this NEMA 14-50 plug. By removing the
neutral prong and leaving the two flat 'hot leg' prongs and the top center rounded
ground
plug, it can plug into both a NEMA 14-50 socket, and, a similar 240 vac four prong
socket
(like Damon's' 30 amp dryer socket) that has the weirdo right angle prong for the
neutral
(14-50 has a third flat prong for neutral). The PFC-20 charger does not use neutral in
any
way, so it's never needed I also took along another 240 vac extension cord I had made
for
when I go to my father-in-law's house, a 30 ft. 10 gauge cord (a heavy and bulky black
one) with a three prong 'crowfoot' plug for his dryer socket on one end, and a square
shaped female NEMA 14-50 socket on the other end.
The Meanie's battery pack (13 Optimas) is REAL healthy these days and the YT's have
continued to grow in capacity, and I get and easy 25 ahrs, even 30 ahrs from the set
without any strain on them...the car has great range again (a real 25 miles instead of
15
or so, as it had gone
down to before with the 5 year old Optimas before the swap-out).
I flew up and over the 2.5 mile long Glen Jackson bridge that spans up and over a
narrow
part of the Mighty Columbia River, to Damon's without a care in the world about
preserving
the charge, knowing I had 27-29 amps of charging juice awaiting me. I had fun passing
slow
gas cars, flying up hills, cruising at 80 easily, and running the heater, too. I got to
Damon's and had used a not too thrifty 23.7 ahrs, but the pack's voltage was right up
at
157V when I pulled into his driveway.
As I opened the trunk and pulled out my power cord arsenal (I�m a Bruce Parmenter wanna
be), Damon appeared up stairs, as he popped out a window screen, came out the window,
and
walked out onto the roof and kneeled down to grab a cord from me...cool! In a minute, I
was hooked up to 240 vac power, and the tweaked Manzanita Micro charger was jamming
27.8
amps into the the pack (about 4.6 kw), as the Emeter started to reel backwards in ahrs.
The garage door opened next, and out walked Damon with Mark. We hit it off instantly,
he has a warm personality, laughs a lot, and seems to like cool small cars...he freaked
out over Meanie! Damon had already prepped him about the car, and it seems he's very
pro-EV. He asked me to give him the tour, and so I went into my routine. This went on
for
about 1/2 hour, as Mark asked all sorts of detailed questions about the charger, the
batteries, the motor controller, etc. (he was testing me, and I didn't even know it).
Mark was simply twitching with excitement, like a kid at Christmas, when Damon said to
me...."John, you need to take Mark for a drive!" I turned to ask Mark if that was what
he wanted, but before I could, he had bolted over to the passenger side and was already
getting in...the guy was excited! As I unplugged, the beefy PFC-20 charger had already
brought the pack back up to about a 60% full charge.
I had already told Mark about the car's 300 ft. lbs. of torque, so I showed him how we
would take off in 4th gear... no clutch used. Silently, we eased off, with Mark
saying, "Wow, that's incredible...4th gear from a dead stop!" As we sveltely glided
away
from the Henry house and up to the main road, I asked Mark if he wanted me to
demonstrate
what a responsible citizen I could be, by driving sedately, or, if he wanted to see the
real John Wayland and what the car could do. Mark almost cut me off with, "OH NO, no
wimpy
stuff, I used to help race on an oval track as a back up race driver...I wanna get the
full experience...go for it!" It was again, one of those weirdo Pacific NW days, where
it
had rained a little, dried up a little, was sunny a little, rained a little, then
dried up
a little type thing, so the streets were moist in spots, but basically dry. I hammered
it
hard from rest in 2nd gear, and the rear tires lit up severely, smoking and making that
scratching-squealing combined sound, and even though the launch was impressive, I
apologized to Mark for what I called 'lack luster performance' because the car wasn't
fully charged yet :-) Mark was hoot'n and a holler'n when I banged 3rd gear...the car
was
going about 30 mph with both rear tires in a smoke'n fit with the car fishtailing,
still
scratching and clawing at the pavement in search of traction! It finally bit in 3rd and
lunged forward as I power-shifted into 4th, which put us both back into our seats
firmly
as the car rushed up to 70+ mph in seconds....then, I let up and silently decelerated
down
to 50-ish as we cruised along with only the whisper of the wind. Mark was absolutely,
totally blown away!
We rolled back into Damon's driveway, and as we piled out, Mark was going a mile a
minute as I calmly reached for the charge cord and plugged the Meanie back in for a
strong
drink of electrons. Mark reached down to my car's lustrous blue with violet pearl
fender,
like someone might do to a massive dog with spiked hair on its shoulders that seems to
want you to pet it, but might also bite your hand off, and carefully patted it and
said to
me, "Nice resume!"
To be continued....(part 2 is a hoot)
See Ya.....John Wayland
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--- Begin Message ---
March 8th is the next meeting for the Las Vegas Electric Vehicle
Association, meetings are held on the second Saturday of each month at the
Clark County Library at 1401 E. Flamingo Road from 10:15 AM to 12:15 PM.
We have a guest coming to the meeting that is interested in electric
autocross racing, like most people he has a racing budget so lets see what
we have in the club for sale to help him get started, he needs everything so
check your pile of spare parts and bring a good price to the meeting for
him.
Check www.lveva.org for more information and directions.
www.lasvegasev.com
Richard Furniss
Las Vegas, NV
1986 Mazda EX-7 192v
1981 Lectra Centauri 108v
3 Wheel Trail Master 12v
Board Member, www.lveva.org
Las Vegas Electric Vehicle Association
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