EV Digest 2627

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) RE:  LRR tires
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  2) Re: LRR Tires
        by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Oh birdseed...
        by "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: LRR Tires
        by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: LRR Tires
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
        by Richard Bebbington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Morad vs. Voloci:
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
        by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) RE: Fwd: [sparrow_ev] Sparrow #78 now on EBay
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 12) eMeter settings
        by fred whitridge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Morad vs. Voloci:
        by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
        by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
        by michael bearden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Experience with VW based dune buggy conversions?
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
        by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: Experience with VW based dune buggy conversions?
        by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) I killed it :(
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 24) To Former EV1 Owners
        by Sam Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: (no subject)
        by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: eMeter settings
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
        by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 29) Re: I killed it :(
        by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I've been very pleased with my TOYO 800 Ultra tires.  They were lest costly than the 
Michelins, and had a longer mileage rating.    I took the old tires off my Honda Del 
Sol immediatley after conversion, since they were too old and I didn't trust them at 
higher air pressures, so unfortunately I don't have any info to pass on regarding 
performance before and after using the TOYO tires.
Chuck
93 Delectric Sol




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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>   I have been doing research on LRR tires suitable for my EV under
> construction. (88 Fiero ). I have checked with all the local tire suppliers
> and have mostly gotten the deer in the headlights response. There are several
> hi pressure tires available (44 PSI) but no one seems to have a clue about
> rolling resistance. When I explain that they are for an electric car I get
> more intense blank stares. Most dealers seem to want to help but they seem to
> know nothing about the rubber compound their respective brands are made of.
>   So far my research has revealed the following;
>      1 Hi pressure is better because the sidewalls flex less and require less
> energy  however the ride is rougher.
>       2 Rubber compounds with more silica as compared to carbon have less
> rolling resistance . ( I have no idea why)
>       3 Sipeing tires makes the tread deform to road irregularities easier,
> create less heat and may decrease rolling resistance.
>       4. Tread patterns don't appear to have any rime or reason on hi
> pressure tires.
>     Has anyone found LRR tires that are still available?
>     Does anyone know what features I should look fore to find the lowest
> rolling resistance?
>     Any information will be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Pat Sweeney
Hey Pat. There has been a thread doing some bandwidth on LRR tires. I
want a set also for my Fiero. 
Michellin Proximas sound like they are available, and not too exotic.
The Goodyears I think are not available.
         Honestly I have not spent much time reading the LRR thread. I need to
since I am reactivating the Fiero.
Umm What kinda motor??? It looks like I killed my Kostov, but not the
T-REX. It ohmed....after a lock motor braking event... Motor or diodes 
are about the only possible fail point.
        The Warp 9 strengthened 9" is my stocker that I would pick to date.
Interpoles are nice, but I have some plans....
Let us all know what you find or settle on, since I will most likely
follow your lead.
        LRR tires, also are not known for grip in the wet. 2000 amps and 350
volts... And well my requirements may differ.

I think your silica should be called silicone, Sand is a pretty basic
traction enhacer... on Ice. Silicone like Caulk silicone can be a
stickey yet very tough. Correct me I I am wrong here. But I know you
know the difference...What you read may not be fully correct.  I can see
silicone being mixed with a rubber coumpound and being called new and
improved.

        Paul Compton said the Yokohoma 032A were the ticket for sticky in the
rain and long tread wear.  A massive improvement over the 008Rs of
yesteryear. You could spit on the highway, and the guy behind you would
spin out!. I know Autocrossers that feared any hint of rain while in
traffice with 008Rs.
        One of the limits to the LRRs I have heard is they are limited to the
samller import tire sizes. The Fieros had 14 inch running gear and maybe
15 in 88.


-- 
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, finally it got above 40 degrees here in MD. Charged the car up, took
for a spin...

250 volts at 130 amps. The pack is split.

It's definately a testament to Hawker tech that a single string of 26ah
batteries can move a car and sustain a discharge rate of 5c over a length of
time. Still, it's time to drop the pack again...

As soon as the snow melts (probably end of March) I'll give it a go. I don't
think I blew another battery; the remaining string still holds 325 volts
after 24 hours; my guess is that a battery post came loose in the pack,
causing a meltdown on a post. This time I will remember to replace the lock
washers completely and put some paint on the screw when I torque down the
bolts.

Truth be told it's time to face the music. Even with the pack together, I
can't pull more than 27amps out of a 52ah pack. Replacing it with a new pack
should get my range into the 30-40 mile ranges and at least up to 40ah draw.

Ah well.
Chris

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Michellin Proximas sound like they are available, and not too exotic.
> The Goodyears I think are not available.

Proxima's are still available (or were last year) however they are a bit
spendy.  The only way I could get them here is special order through a
local shop, approx $135 each as I recall.

The Goodyear Invicta GLR's are gone, a shame. I had a set of those on my
truck before switching to the Pontenza's, range dropped about 5%.


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,

Lee Hart wrote:

> Peter VanDerWal wrote:

> > Bridgestone Potenza RE92 are LRR and are OEM on the Honda Insight and
> > Toyota Prius as I recall.
>
> However, the Potenza has a very low tread wear rating of 160 -- 20-30k
> miles is about all you'll get with this tire.

My 2000 Honda Insight, like all Insight's, uses the Bridgestone Potenza RE92 LRR type
165/65-14 tire. Though the max PSI is 44, many of us run them at 50 PSI with a huge
increase in the already heady mpg these streamlined gas-electric spaceships deliver. 
My 5
speed 2000 model still delivers 92 mpg when conditions are perfect and you are 'trying'
for the best mileage and are willing to drop your speed down from 75-80 mph freeway
blasting...60-75 degree temps, no wind, no rain, no AC being used, and steady state
cruising at 57-62 mph. At 45 mph, 100+ mpg is easy, too. At everyday stuff, not paying
attention to anything and just 'driving' the car still gets in the low 70 mpg area.

Gotta take Lee to task here...the tires on my car are pushing 31k now, and after 
reading
Lee's claims of just 20-30k miles, I just inspected them, and I am happy to report
he's wrong. The tires on my car, even at 50 psi, have perfectly even tread wear (the
center is not wearing out due to over-pressure) and have a conservative 40% tread left 
on
them, maybe even 50%.

The tires are exceptional at their main game, LRR, and my car will seemingly roll 
forever
with just a single finger's push on level ground. They are not perfect in other 
aspects,
though. The two biggest complaints from Insight owners about these tires, are (1) very
high road noise (2) a tendency to follow road ruts and grooves, causing the Insight to
dart around on such surfaces. These two negatives are the focus of much grief for many
Insight owners, and they are routinely dumping the tires and going for a fatter, low
profiler 195/50 14 tire of non LRR nature. I always cringe when I read about them doing
this, then do the countdown and wait about 2-3 weeks for these same folks to repost 
about
how their Insight's suddenly loose 7-15 mpg...hel--l-o...what didn't you get about LRR?

This subject has been thoroughly discussed over at the Honda-Hybrid List...here's the
latest from that site:

>From the Honda-Hybrid List:

Subject:
             Re: [honda-hybrid] Re: tire size
       Date:
             Mon, 17 Feb 2003 12:26:14 -0500
       From:
             "mike birkle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
   Reply-To:
             [EMAIL PROTECTED]
         To:
             <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 References:

>I agree, but all their tire ( Bridgestone) rpm specs are and I have checked other
manufactures sites as well and they all vary too. I assume the
>diameter specs are standard but then I am only assuming. I found a link about the 
>Insight
rear end and tires
>http://www.insightman.com/pk_chas/pk_chas-03.htm it seems the original tires have a 
>40%
lower rolling resistance than standard tires. Could be why
>they are so unstable and squirrel all over the place....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There have been some though, who use their brains a bit more and have experimented 
with a
few other brands of LRR tires, most recently, my friend Ryan Fulcher who obtained some 
LRR
tires made for and used on the EV-1. They are not an exact size replacement, at 
175/65-14,
but Ryan reports that virtually all of the 'darting' and road noise, are gone, yet, the
mpg has stayed high.:

Subject:
           [honda-hybrid] Re: tire size (non-OEM LRR Tires)
      Date:
           Tue, 18 Feb 2003 22:40:19 -0000
     From:
           "d0li0 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 Reply-To:
           [EMAIL PROTECTED]
        To:
           [EMAIL PROTECTED]

>I have installed a set of Michelin Proxima 175/65-14's.
>These are the tires used on the GM EV1.
>I don't believe that there is any lose in mileage versus
>the OEM tires, however I have not been able to confirm this.

>But I did Finally record a trip (30 miles) mileage of 72.3 MPG.
>which I have not achieved since I installed some pirelli's
>and took a 20mpg hit about a year ago.  So it appears that I'm
>finally back up to the high 60's and 70's!!!

>Other than the OEM tires, these are the only other tires I
>would recoment for the Insight.  They are rather expensive,
>however they are self sealing and the ride is substantially
>better.  No more darting from side to side, at all! Serious!

>L8r
> Ryan

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In my opinion, Bridgestone screwed up in the model nomenclature for the special LRR 
tire,
by calling it 'Potenza RE92', as this exact name appears on many other sizes of their
tires, none of which, are a LRR tire. In another post (couldn't find it to paste in), 
an
Insight owner was in contact with a Bridgestone engineer, and he confirmed that just 
the
165/65-15 size Potenza, the one that Insights come with, is a LRR model.

See Ya......John Wayland

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Ugh.  I thought so.  More than once droped a stray wire.  Since I have two
packs paralleling a wire flopped the wrong way is all it takes..I've had the
worst luck.  Even heatshrinking the connections sometimes doesnt help.  I
'll have to be more careful.

> I can give you a complete BOM of the Mk1 s and the MK2s.
> There should be NO guess work here, just get the right stuff.

Sounds good.  If it's just replacing the parts I'll get my solder sucker
out.  Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.


> Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> >
> > Found a bunch of 22uF 16v caps exactly the same as the ones on the
boards.
> > 8 cents each.  The IRF Z48 doesn't seem to have a cross.  I did see on
one
> > of the destroyed units had a number starting with I think a BU or BL.
The
> > rest was blown off.  These two parts seem to be the most likely parts to
> > blow on the mark ones.  Anybody help me with a number?  Lawrence
> > Rhodes........
>
> Lawrence, It's a IRF Z48, any 60 volt TO-220 mosfet will do. There are
> hundreds.
>
> So far your box of blown Regs here are REALLY Zorched. Fets are gone and
> logic is gone. CLearly 48- 60 volts got inside the voltage regulated
> area, and POOF!.
>
>  Like I said I have new ones ready to ship. I have boxes that are not
> worth my time at the moment to fix.
>
> I can give you a complete BOM of the Mk1 s and the MK2s.
> There should be NO guess work here, just get the right stuff.
>
> --
> Rich Rudman
> Manzanita Micro
> www.manzanitamicro.com
> 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Nice one John!

If Blue Meanie doesn't impress a prospective employer,
nothin will...

Glad to have you back on the EVDL

Richard Bebbington
Electric Mini pickup
( eagerly waiting for part II ... ;-)

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone able to give a comparison of these two EVs.  Are they as good as
claimed.  Lawrence Rhodes......

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Wayland wrote:
-----------------------------
Anyway...I�m back, and what better way to return, than with a good� ol two part
Walandesque tale? Let the story telling begin.....
-----------------------------



Glad to seeya back John.


Nice re-entry :^D





Roy LeMeur Seattle WA

My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html

Informational Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus

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More questions.  Why is the center lead cut on the mk1 rev C and soldered in
and used on the D rev?
> > Lawrence, It's a IRF Z48, any 60 volt TO-220 mosfet will do. There are
> > hundreds.
I can give you a complete BOM of the Mk1 s and the MK2s.
> > There should be NO guess work here, just get the right stuff.
> >
> > --
> > Rich Rudman
> > Manzanita Micro
> > www.manzanitamicro.com
> > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> >
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is true. I've talked with Rich and at least 2 other Sparrow owers who
have resently sold their cars. The Sparrow is good for up to 20 miles
one-way commute, for consistancy. All of these owners have had job changes
which have increase their commutes to 30+ miles.

I have worked around this "limitation" by changing to a PFC charger with
Avcon inlet and adding charging time to my commute (36 one-way), but this is
not for everyone.

The ideal situation would be to validate upgrading from a YT pack (20-25
mpc) to a NiZn pack (about 50 mpc) or LiIon (70-120+ mpc). These would bring
new live and viability to the small Sparrow, which is a great commute
vehicle.

Until then, the best solution is to upgrade with battery management systems,
like individual voltage monitor and charging regs, and fast charging
abilities.

Br,
Ed Thorpe
Sparrow http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/364.html

-----Original Message-----
From: John G. Lussmyer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 9:22 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fwd: [sparrow_ev] Sparrow #78 now on EBay


I know that several of them got jobs too far from home to let them use the 
Sparrow.
I'm not using mine since it doesn't have the range to get to work 
anymore.  (I don't count the 1 mile round trip per week to check the PO box 
as "using it".)  That's why I'm looking into using LiIon's in mine.

At 12:12 PM 3/1/2003 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>I wonder why ?
>Has anyone done a survey as to why they are for sale ?
>
>On Sat, 01 Mar 2003 08:16:38 -0800 "John G. Lussmyer"
><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> > Thought someone might be interested....
> > (There has been a rash of Sparrows for sale recently....)

--
John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com

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My eMeter seems to have the Amps setting resolutely showing "-503".  I have tried all 
the
resets, and resets to factory defaults that I can read.  There is no load that I know 
of and
I think I could detect 503 amps at 120 volts :-). The shunt is hooked up at both ends, 
and
last time I drove the car this was reading properly. This is a new gremlin and nothing 
in
the related wiring has changed other than having begun to use the serial port.  Makes 
no
difference if the serial cable is attached.

Any clues?

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:


-----------------------------------
Anyone able to give a comparison of these two EVs. Are they as good as
claimed. Lawrence Rhodes......
------------------------------------

Yes, I have ridden both and there is really no comparison.
The Voloci is essentially a glorified electric bicycle without pedals, and makes lots of chain noise,
and really isn't all that stable above 20 mph, and not a good hill climber, (it is also an orphan child, more on this...)
Many including myself anticipated the release of the Voloci for quite a while, unfortunately the hype was much better than the actual vehicle.


The MoRad 1500 is similar to a Vespa and can be operated safely in 35 mph traffic.

Chip Gribben and I recently posted short reviews of the MoRad here, here they are again in case you missed them:

Chip Gribben wrote:
---------------------------------
The Morad 1500 is a kick-butt scooter. With the hub motor, the torque is
instantaneous. I repaired a demo model for SkooterCommuter recently. It had
a broken switch and the wiring connectors for the potentiometer were loose.

The Morad is really a blast to ride and I really like the retro look but
there are some problems

1) The scooter is top heavy. The batteries are stacked on top of each other.
3 stacked on each other and one behind. If you loose your balance moving it
around it can get away from you.

2) Even though the speedo says MPH it really reads KPH. I noticed that when
I was riding around doing 65 on the residential streets in my neighborhood

3) The mirrors are worthless unless you want to see your belly button.
You'll need to go to a cycle shop and get some longer ones.

To lighten this scooter up we were thinking of replacing the heavy lead
batteries with the Nickle-Zinc ones similar to the batteries used on the
Lepton Oxygen scooter.

Chip Gribben
Freelance Scooter Tech
SkooterCommuter
http://www.skootercommuter.com
--------------------------------------------------


Roy LeMeur wrote: ------------------------------------------------- Sheer has one and loves it.

Roderick and I both have lots of saddle time on them.

Tom True and the Silver Bullet crew have two, they like them.

This would actually be a good choice for a heavier rider though certainly
not a board scooter :-)

Super silent, climbs hills very well.

Battery weight is a little high in the chassis but you get used to it.
Scooter weighs about 300 lbs.

Controller provides an very soft start from rest, I suspect that this is to
protect the hubmotor from over current damage at zero RPM.

Once you start rolling, the power comes on smoothly and it provides plenty
of it.

Suspension and brakes are very good, nice body work and finish especially
for a Chinese scooter.

Advertised range is 30-40 miles, more like 25 in the real world.

NEDRA record holder!

Roderick's idea, there was no record in that class, he put his "girlfriend
of the moment" on one and she became a NEDRA record holder. :^D

Class: SP/I
"Mo Rad Scooter" - 48V
Driver: Quija Keogh
Owner: EV Parts

1/8 mile/seconds: 18.494
MPH: 32.89
Woodburn Drags 2002

Battery pack was quite depleted when this run was made, top speed is
actually more like 35-37 mph with a light rider.
-----------------------------------------------------


The few who own a Voloci like the fact they can get away with riding it as a bicycle (no licensing)


The biggest pros and cons.....

Nova Cruz, the manufacturer of the Voloci and the Xooter board scooter are believed to be out of business, though the website is still up.
They have not responded to communications in months, many folks who sent their machines in for repair have heard nothing for months.
This has been discussed to death on the zappy electric scooter list.


What this means is Voloci and Xooter owners have limited production collector's items.
It also means any replacement parts are made of unobtainium.
If anyone on this list knows anythimg concerning the status of Nova Cruz I would love to hear about it.


On the other hand........ all the body, mechanical, and electrical parts for the MoRad 1500 are available for purchase individually.
Roderick at evparts.com has the parts manuals and access to all the parts.


For this reason alone, it seems wise not to get a Voloci (if you can find one, not even one on Ebay)
Additionally, the Voloci's NiMH battery packs were nothing but trouble for the owners,
I believe they sold a very few with lead-acid packs before production stopped.


Hope this helps.





Roy LeMeur Seattle WA

My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html

Informational Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html




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--- Begin Message ---
Will this do?   Lawrence Rhodes......

SUPERTEX VMOS MOSFET
P Channel
Enhancement Mode
T0-220, 100V, ID cont. 1.0A, Diss.
15W, RDS-on, 8 Ohms max. VGate
Th 1.5-3.5V.
VP01A2N5 49� each

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> 
> Will this do?   Lawrence Rhodes......
> 
> SUPERTEX VMOS MOSFET
> P Channel
> Enhancement Mode
> T0-220, 100V, ID cont. 1.0A, Diss.
> 15W, RDS-on, 8 Ohms max. VGate
> Th 1.5-3.5V.
> VP01A2N5 49� each
NO !!! it's a pchannel.
Z48s are Nchannel!


-- 
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One amp of drain current is too low.

Shop for something with less Rds. About 10 milliohms works well without a
heat sink.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.


> Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> >
> > Will this do?   Lawrence Rhodes......
> >
> > SUPERTEX VMOS MOSFET
> > P Channel
> > Enhancement Mode
> > T0-220, 100V, ID cont. 1.0A, Diss.
> > 15W, RDS-on, 8 Ohms max. VGate
> > Th 1.5-3.5V.
> > VP01A2N5 49� each
> NO !!! it's a pchannel.
> Z48s are Nchannel!
>
>
> --
> Rich Rudman
> Manzanita Micro
> www.manzanitamicro.com
> 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The tab and the center leg are tied together. Some of the boards make
connection to the tab, and others through the leg. Some lots of transistors
had the center leg cut and some had the leg intact. It works either way.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.


> More questions.  Why is the center lead cut on the mk1 rev C and soldered
in
> and used on the D rev?
> > > Lawrence, It's a IRF Z48, any 60 volt TO-220 mosfet will do. There are
> > > hundreds.
> I can give you a complete BOM of the Mk1 s and the MK2s.
> > > There should be NO guess work here, just get the right stuff.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Rich Rudman
> > > Manzanita Micro
> > > www.manzanitamicro.com
> > > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> > >
> >
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oh Yeah!  John W. is back in a BIG way, and I am overjoyed.  I have truly missed the 
side of
EV living that only John seems to bring to us.  I can't wait for part 2....
Thank you John!
Michael B.

John Wayland wrote:

> Hello to All,
>
> My apologies to the list for my little mishap the other day. It was at best, a very
> awkward way to resume posting to the EVDL. I was writing what was supposed to be a 
> private
> email to Bob Rice, and had my wireless mouse connected to my Mac iBook laptop here 
> at the
> kitchen table. I had hit the 'reply to' button and was readying a personal response 
> to
> Bob's post from the EVDL, and had not yet changed the   'send-to' address to his 
> personal
> one, so it still had the EVDL address in the address box.....my wife   accidentally 
> bumped
> the table pretty hard, the wireless mouse was jolted, and it's cursor, somehow,   
> landed
> right on top of the 'send' button at the exact time it also inadvertently clicked
> itself...poof!!! .... away the unfinished email went...to the EVDL.....spelling and
> grammatical errors left uncorrected, and with comments not intended to be 
> shared...oh well.
>
> I do think, as part of that 'lamo' post of mine started to say, that Bob Rice is a 
> breath
> of fresh air on this discussion list, and his voice of common sense helps balance 
> the 'hi
> tech noise' that many times, runs right over the top of things, often missing the 
> entire
> point. Thank you, Bob, for being here, and thanks to everyone who in response to my
> faux pa the other day, sent me private emails urging me to renew my posting to the 
> EVDL.
>
> Anyway...I�m back, and what better way to return, than with a good� ol two part
> Walandesque tale? Let the story telling begin.....
>
> Like many I know of in today�s slow economic times, my work situation has been in
> limbo...read that, �unemployed�.  I�ve been looking for work, of course, and had been
> applying at various places. Knowing my situation, my EV and hybrid friend, Damon 
> Henry,
> had arranged for me to drive Blue Meanie up to his place to meet 'Mark', who I was 
> told,
> was looking forward to meeting me and my fun EV. Mark had a possible position for me,
> working with an electrical distributing company.
>
> The last time I took the 16 mile drive from my place to Damon's in neighboring 
> Vancouver,
> Washington, the charging thing for my short range EV didn't work out so well, and the
> Henry's outdoor 120 vac outlet was limited by a wimpy 15 amp circuit breaker. We
> eventually figured it out and found a more robust 20 amp circuit, but only after 
> available
> charging time was lost.  This time, Damon was determined to impress me with real 
> charging
> juice, and vowed to provide full current for me, courtesy of their upstairs dryer 
> outlet .
>
> I brought a new 240 vac style adapter I made that would allow me to connect things 
> up,
> and two long 240V extension cords. One is a twist lock-to-twist lock 25 ft. cord, 
> that
> I had just made up a few days ago. A few years back, I had  purchased a soft and very
> pliable, powder blue colored 10 gauge 120 vac power cord, with bright yellow molded
> ends...talk about an overkill 120 vac cord!  It ended up not getting used too much, 
> as I
> have lots of Wayland-made 12 gauge 120 vac cords to use that handle just about the 
> max
> current you can suck from a 20 amp wall socket, anyway, so the 10 gauge cord has 
> just hung
> in my shop, largely unused, Most of the black colored 10-3 power cord you can buy, is
> thick and heavy, and not too pliable, but this blue one is super easy to handle, and
> lighter, too. I clipped off both molded ends (it was hard to purposefully mutilate 
> such a
> pristine cord), and threw them away, then assembled a male L6-30 twist lock to one 
> end,
> and a matching female twist lock to the other....presto!....an instant, super 
> flexible, 25
> ft. 30 amp 240 vac extension cord for the Meanie. I was glad I had clipped off the 
> ends, as
> now, this 10 gauge cord had a real purpose. I also made an adapter that is 
> essentially a
> four prong type 240 vac plug with a short two foot cord that terminates with a 
> female twist
> lock, but I use just three of the four prongs of this NEMA 14-50 plug. By removing 
> the
> neutral prong and leaving the two flat 'hot leg' prongs and the top center rounded 
> ground
> plug, it can plug into both a NEMA 14-50 socket, and, a similar 240 vac four prong 
> socket
> (like Damon's' 30 amp dryer socket) that has the weirdo right angle prong for the 
> neutral
> (14-50 has a third flat prong for neutral). The PFC-20 charger does not use neutral 
> in any
> way, so it's never needed I also took along another 240 vac extension cord I had 
> made for
> when I go to my father-in-law's house, a 30 ft. 10 gauge cord (a heavy and bulky 
> black
> one) with a three prong 'crowfoot' plug for his dryer socket on one end, and a square
> shaped female NEMA 14-50 socket on the other end.
>
> The Meanie's battery pack (13 Optimas) is REAL healthy these days and the YT's have
> continued to grow in capacity, and I get and easy 25 ahrs, even 30 ahrs from the set
> without any strain on them...the car has great range again (a real 25 miles instead 
> of 15
> or so, as it had gone
> down to before with the 5 year old Optimas before the swap-out).
>
> I flew up and over the 2.5 mile long Glen Jackson bridge that spans up and over a 
> narrow
> part of the Mighty Columbia River, to Damon's without a care in the world about 
> preserving
> the charge, knowing I had 27-29 amps of charging juice awaiting me. I had fun 
> passing slow
> gas cars, flying up hills, cruising at 80 easily, and running the heater, too. I got 
> to
> Damon's and had used a not too thrifty 23.7 ahrs, but the pack's voltage was right 
> up at
> 157V when I pulled into his driveway.
>
> As I opened the trunk and pulled out my power cord arsenal (I�m a Bruce Parmenter 
> wanna
> be), Damon appeared up stairs, as he popped out a window screen, came out the 
> window, and
> walked out onto the roof and kneeled down to grab a cord from me...cool! In a 
> minute, I
> was hooked up to 240 vac power, and the tweaked Manzanita Micro charger was jamming 
> 27.8
> amps into the the pack (about 4.6 kw), as the Emeter started to reel backwards in 
> ahrs.
>
> The garage door opened next, and out walked Damon with Mark. We hit it off instantly,
> he has a warm personality, laughs a lot, and seems to like cool small cars...he 
> freaked
> out over Meanie! Damon had already prepped him about the car, and it seems he's very
> pro-EV. He asked me to give him the tour, and so I went into my routine. This went 
> on for
> about 1/2 hour, as Mark asked all sorts of detailed questions about the charger, the
> batteries, the motor controller, etc. (he was testing me, and I didn't even know it).
>
> Mark was simply twitching with excitement, like a kid at Christmas, when Damon said 
> to
> me...."John, you need to take Mark for a drive!" I turned to ask Mark if that was 
> what
> he wanted, but before I could, he had bolted over to the passenger side and was 
> already
> getting in...the guy was excited! As I unplugged, the beefy PFC-20 charger had 
> already
> brought the pack back up to about a 60% full charge.
>
> I had already told Mark about the car's 300 ft. lbs. of torque, so I showed him how 
> we
> would take off in 4th gear... no clutch used. Silently, we eased off, with Mark
> saying, "Wow, that's incredible...4th gear from a dead stop!" As we sveltely glided 
> away
> from the Henry house and up to the main road, I asked Mark if he wanted me to 
> demonstrate
> what a responsible citizen I could be, by driving sedately, or, if he wanted to see 
> the
> real John Wayland and what the car could do. Mark almost cut me off with, "OH NO, no 
> wimpy
> stuff, I used to help race on an oval track as a back up race driver...I wanna get 
> the
> full experience...go for it!" It was again, one of those weirdo Pacific NW days, 
> where it
> had rained a little, dried up a little, was sunny a little, rained a little, then 
> dried up
> a little type thing, so the streets were moist in spots, but basically dry. I 
> hammered it
> hard from rest in 2nd gear, and the rear tires lit up severely, smoking and making 
> that
> scratching-squealing combined sound, and even though the launch was impressive, I
> apologized to Mark for what I called 'lack luster performance' because the car wasn't
> fully charged yet  :-) Mark was hoot'n and a holler'n when I banged 3rd gear...the 
> car was
> going about 30 mph with both rear tires in a smoke'n fit with the car fishtailing, 
> still
> scratching and clawing at the pavement in search of traction! It finally bit in 3rd 
> and
> lunged forward as I power-shifted into 4th, which put us both back into our seats 
> firmly
> as the car rushed up to 70+ mph in seconds....then, I let up and silently 
> decelerated down
> to 50-ish as we cruised along with only the whisper of the wind. Mark was absolutely,
> totally blown away!
>
> We rolled back into Damon's driveway, and as we piled out, Mark was going a mile a
> minute as I calmly reached for the charge cord and plugged the Meanie back in for a 
> strong
> drink of electrons. Mark reached down to my car's lustrous blue with violet pearl 
> fender,
> like someone might do to a massive dog with spiked hair on its shoulders that seems 
> to
> want you to pet it, but might also bite your hand off, and carefully patted it and 
> said to
> me, "Nice resume!"
>
> To be continued....(part 2 is a hoot)
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: michael bearden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1


> Oh Yeah!  John W. is back in a BIG way, and I am overjoyed.  I have truly
missed the side of
> EV living that only John seems to bring to us.  I can't wait for part
2....
> Thank you John!
> Michael B.

>   Yes! Yes! Yes! John's back, hang out the flag!! Thanks for coming on
List, like old times. Waiting for part two!

      Seeya

      Bob


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul at [EMAIL PROTECTED] has one. 
I believe it has an 8 inch Advanced DC motor in it.
He seems pleased with it.
Contact him for additional information.

I had a picture of it but can't seem to find it.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Daisley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 8:50 AM
Subject: Experience with VW based dune buggy conversions?


> I would like to buy a VW based dune buggy (Kellison, Manx, etc.) and
> convert it to an EV for local California "running around". Does anyone
> have any experience with this conversion? My main questions revolve
> around battery locations, etc. I plan on using an 8" ADC.
> 
> Is this a practical conversion or just a great idea filled with pitfalls
> and headaches?
> 
> Roger In Laguna
> 
> "Where Revolutionary New Ideas Are Not Always Revolutionary Or New"
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Welcome back John! It just hain't been the same without cha!



Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Force (x2)
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Roger Daisley wrote:

I would like to buy a VW based dune buggy (Kellison, Manx, etc.) and
convert it to an EV for local California "running around". Does anyone
have any experience with this conversion? My main questions revolve
around battery locations, etc. I plan on using an 8" ADC.

Is this a practical conversion or just a great idea filled with pitfalls
and headaches?

Roger In Laguna

"Where Revolutionary New Ideas Are Not Always Revolutionary Or New"



Paul "Neon" Gooch has a very nice dunebuggy, Prestolite, Optimas, Curtis 1221B, and neon! See it here:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/125.html








Roy LeMeur Seattle WA

My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html

Informational Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html




_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It looks like I was at least a week late with my battery balancer. Last weekend, my 
Tropica suddenly quit. The bar graph showed I still had some juice but it wouldn't go. 
I pushed it home and checked the pack voltage 70. I tried to charge it but no luck. 
Today I pulled the pack and checked all the batteries. All had water, voltages 6.17, 
6.20, 6.19, ..., 4.05 Oh no! I tried putting a 6 volt charger on that battery but no 
luck. It was only pulling .5-.6 amp and the voltage was 8.11.

So, do I:
1) try and nurse this battery back to health? If so how?
2) replace this one with a new one? 
3) anybody got an old US125 near San Jose?

I don't really want to put a new pack in until get get the balancer and charger 
working correctly. If #2 is the suggestion I fully expect to replace all the batteries 
at once when I get the new pack. 

Let's see if I've learned anything. I suspect the problem was that my charger doesn't 
do a proper finish charge which caused this poor battery to get further and further 
out of balance. This would explain where my range went. Am I close?

thanks,
steve

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- To the former owners of EV1s:
What have you found to replace your EV1? Is it a good solution? If to design a vehicle exactly the way you want it, what would it have? What would you be willing to pay?


-Sam Harper
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I sent you a e-mail about the truck did you get it ? Steve Clunn
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 8:21 AM
Subject: (no subject)


> set ev mail
> set ev mail ack
> query ev
> 
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The input amplifier blows that reads the shunt voltage.

Excess voltage on the shunt wires causes this.

The only thing that you can do to try to confirm the problem is short the
shunt terminals together at the meter and check the reading. If it reads
zero, the problem is in the wiring. If it still read a large number, the
problem is in the meter.

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




----- Original Message -----
From: "fred whitridge" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 3:42 PM
Subject: eMeter settings


> My eMeter seems to have the Amps setting resolutely showing "-503".  I
have tried all the
> resets, and resets to factory defaults that I can read.  There is no load
that I know of and
> I think I could detect 503 amps at 120 volts :-). The shunt is hooked up
at both ends, and
> last time I drove the car this was reading properly. This is a new gremlin
and nothing in
> the related wiring has changed other than having begun to use the serial
port.  Makes no
> difference if the serial cable is attached.
>
> Any clues?
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,

Just a quick note (is that possible?)....

John Wayland wrote:

> Hello to All,
>
> My apologies to the list for my little mishap the other day....poof!!! .... away the
> unfinished email went...to the EVDL.....spelling and
> grammatical errors left uncorrected.....

Ye-a-h......then I do this:

'Ulitmate'

I promise, part 2's title will get spell-checked.... keep an eye out for 'The Ultimate 
Resume
(the forklift on steroids), pt. 2'

See Ya.....John (unbelievably, repeat spelling bee contest winner in my elementary 
school
years) Wayland

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
glad your back and with more story's to tell . looking forward to part 2 and
more
Steve Clunn

 "Nice resume!"
>
> To be continued....(part 2 is a hoot)
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland
>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are those the same batteries that you got it with?  from the voltages you
posted I'd find a used one or find sombody that doing a conversion that
dosen't have batts and get some new ones > .  It may be just one sell / Lee
probable his an idea for that.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: I killed it :(


> It looks like I was at least a week late with my battery balancer. Last
weekend, my Tropica suddenly quit. The bar graph showed I still had some
juice but it wouldn't go. I pushed it home and checked the pack voltage 70.
I tried to charge it but no luck. Today I pulled the pack and checked all
the batteries. All had water, voltages 6.17, 6.20, 6.19, ..., 4.05 Oh no! I
tried putting a 6 volt charger on that battery but no luck. It was only
pulling .5-.6 amp and the voltage was 8.11.
>
> So, do I:
> 1) try and nurse this battery back to health? If so how?
> 2) replace this one with a new one?
> 3) anybody got an old US125 near San Jose?
>
> I don't really want to put a new pack in until get get the balancer and
charger working correctly. If #2 is the suggestion I fully expect to replace
all the batteries at once when I get the new pack.
>
> Let's see if I've learned anything. I suspect the problem was that my
charger doesn't do a proper finish charge which caused this poor battery to
get further and further out of balance. This would explain where my range
went. Am I close?
>
> thanks,
> steve
>
>

--- End Message ---

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