EV Digest 2628
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: I killed it :(
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2) Re: I killed it :(
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: I killed it :(
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: I killed it :(
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Re: I killed it :(
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Re: I killed it :(
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: I killed it :(
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: Morad vs. Voloci:
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Standard Public Charging Station
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) battery charging
by "veena" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Electric Scooters
by "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: EV parts for sale
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) Re: Standard Public Charging Station
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) trip with gen/long
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Experience with VW based dune buggy conversions?
by Paul G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) OT need motor
by "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Rudman Reg Mark I Rev C repair parts.
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: LRR Tires
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) New Charging Station in Port Townsend
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Used US125 Possibility
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Used US125 Possibility
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
23) Re: EV parts for sale
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: trip with gen/long
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Standard Public Charging Station
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Yep. When I got the car, I had 2 volts across the entire pack!
Steve
In a message dated 3/3/2003 4:26:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Are those the same batteries that you got it with?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Scrap the battery. It has a bad cell.
Remove the bad battery and charge the pack until it gasses.
Find a serviceable used battery and charge it fully before installation.
Watch the battery voltage on the first few cycles to make sure it plays well
with the others in the pack.
I am a big advocate of testing each battery individually before installation
in the car.
If it was me, I would test each battery individually before putting the car
back in service. That would tell me if the rest of the batteries are ready
to quit (pack replacement) or if it was one runt pulling the whole pack down
(single battery replacement).
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: I killed it :(
> It looks like I was at least a week late with my battery balancer. Last
weekend, my Tropica suddenly quit. The bar graph showed I still had some
juice but it wouldn't go. I pushed it home and checked the pack voltage 70.
I tried to charge it but no luck. Today I pulled the pack and checked all
the batteries. All had water, voltages 6.17, 6.20, 6.19, ..., 4.05 Oh no! I
tried putting a 6 volt charger on that battery but no luck. It was only
pulling .5-.6 amp and the voltage was 8.11.
>
> So, do I:
> 1) try and nurse this battery back to health? If so how?
> 2) replace this one with a new one?
> 3) anybody got an old US125 near San Jose?
>
> I don't really want to put a new pack in until get get the balancer and
charger working correctly. If #2 is the suggestion I fully expect to replace
all the batteries at once when I get the new pack.
>
> Let's see if I've learned anything. I suspect the problem was that my
charger doesn't do a proper finish charge which caused this poor battery to
get further and further out of balance. This would explain where my range
went. Am I close?
>
> thanks,
> steve
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How long did those corpses pull the car around?
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: I killed it :(
> Yep. When I got the car, I had 2 volts across the entire pack!
>
> Steve
>
> In a message dated 3/3/2003 4:26:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > Are those the same batteries that you got it with?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Since Oct of last year.
Steve
In a message dated 3/3/2003 1:45:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
>
> How long did those corpses pull the car around?
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 10:38 PM
> Subject: Re: I killed it :(
>
>
> > Yep. When I got the car, I had 2 volts across the entire pack!
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > In a message dated 3/3/2003 4:26:50 AM Eastern Standard
> Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > > Are those the same batteries that you got it with?
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe,
Would you load test each battery or just charge them individually?
thanks for the advice,
Steve
In a message dated 3/3/2003 1:44:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
>
> Scrap the battery. It has a bad cell.
>
> Remove the bad battery and charge the pack until it gasses.
>
> Find a serviceable used battery and charge it fully before installation.
>
> Watch the battery voltage on the first few cycles to make sure it plays well
> with the others in the pack.
>
> I am a big advocate of testing each battery individually before installation
> in the car.
>
> If it was me, I would test each battery individually before putting the car
> back in service. That would tell me if the rest of the batteries are ready
> to quit (pack replacement) or if it was one runt pulling the whole pack down
> (single battery replacement).
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 8:49 PM
> Subject: I killed it :(
>
>
> > It looks like I was at least a week late with my battery balancer. Last
> weekend, my Tropica suddenly quit. The bar graph showed I still had some
> juice but it wouldn't go. I pushed it home and checked the pack voltage 70.
> I tried to charge it but no luck. Today I pulled the pack and checked all
> the batteries. All had water, voltages 6.17, 6.20, 6.19, ..., 4.05 Oh no! I
> tried putting a 6 volt charger on that battery but no luck. It was only
> pulling .5-.6 amp and the voltage was 8.11.
> >
> > So, do I:
> > 1) try and nurse this battery back to health? If so how?
> > 2) replace this one with a new one?
> > 3) anybody got an old US125 near San Jose?
> >
> > I don't really want to put a new pack in until get get the balancer and
> charger working correctly. If #2 is the suggestion I fully expect to replace
> all the batteries at once when I get the new pack.
> >
> > Let's see if I've learned anything. I suspect the problem was that my
> charger doesn't do a proper finish charge which caused this poor battery to
> get further and further out of balance. This would explain
> where my range
> went. Am I close?
> >
> > thanks,
> > steve
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would cycle them on an automated tester. I would run successive cycles
until I got a stable number for each battery.
Mine is presently busy cycling an EverCell to death. My neighbor has one
based on the same architecture. Are you in the Puget Sound area so you could
come and use it? Do you want me to post the schematic and control software
so you could build your own?
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: I killed it :(
> Joe,
>
> Would you load test each battery or just charge them individually?
>
> thanks for the advice,
> Steve
>
> In a message dated 3/3/2003 1:44:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> >
> >
> > Scrap the battery. It has a bad cell.
> >
> > Remove the bad battery and charge the pack until it gasses.
> >
> > Find a serviceable used battery and charge it fully before installation.
> >
> > Watch the battery voltage on the first few cycles to make sure it plays
well
> > with the others in the pack.
> >
> > I am a big advocate of testing each battery individually before
installation
> > in the car.
> >
> > If it was me, I would test each battery individually before putting the
car
> > back in service. That would tell me if the rest of the batteries are
ready
> > to quit (pack replacement) or if it was one runt pulling the whole pack
down
> > (single battery replacement).
> >
> > Joe Smalley
> > Rural Kitsap County WA
> > Fiesta 48 volts
> > NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 8:49 PM
> > Subject: I killed it :(
> >
> >
> > > It looks like I was at least a week late with my battery balancer.
Last
> > weekend, my Tropica suddenly quit. The bar graph showed I still had some
> > juice but it wouldn't go. I pushed it home and checked the pack voltage
70.
> > I tried to charge it but no luck. Today I pulled the pack and checked
all
> > the batteries. All had water, voltages 6.17, 6.20, 6.19, ..., 4.05 Oh
no! I
> > tried putting a 6 volt charger on that battery but no luck. It was only
> > pulling .5-.6 amp and the voltage was 8.11.
> > >
> > > So, do I:
> > > 1) try and nurse this battery back to health? If so how?
> > > 2) replace this one with a new one?
> > > 3) anybody got an old US125 near San Jose?
> > >
> > > I don't really want to put a new pack in until get get the balancer
and
> > charger working correctly. If #2 is the suggestion I fully expect to
replace
> > all the batteries at once when I get the new pack.
> > >
> > > Let's see if I've learned anything. I suspect the problem was that my
> > charger doesn't do a proper finish charge which caused this poor battery
to
> > get further and further out of balance. This would explain
> > where my range
> > went. Am I close?
> > >
> > > thanks,
> > > steve
> > >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe,
I'm quite a bit south of you in San Jose Ca.
Steve
In a message dated 3/3/2003 2:04:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
>
> I would cycle them on an automated tester. I would run successive cycles
> until I got a stable number for each battery.
>
> Mine is presently busy cycling an EverCell to death. My neighbor has one
> based on the same architecture. Are you in the Puget Sound area so you could
> come and use it? Do you want me to post the schematic and control software
> so you could build your own?
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 10:57 PM
> Subject: Re: I killed it :(
>
>
> > Joe,
> >
> > Would you load test each battery or just charge them individually?
> >
> > thanks for the advice,
> > Steve
> >
> > In a message dated 3/3/2003 1:44:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Scrap the battery. It has a bad cell.
> > >
> > > Remove the bad battery and charge the pack until it gasses.
> > >
> > > Find a serviceable used battery and charge it fully before installation.
> > >
> > > Watch the battery voltage on the first few cycles to make sure it plays
> well
> > > with the others in the pack.
> > >
> > > I am a big advocate of testing each battery individually before
> installation
> > > in the car.
> > >
> > > If it was me, I would test each battery individually before putting the
> car
> > > back in service. That would tell me if the rest of the batteries are
> ready
> > > to quit (pack replacement) or if it was one runt pulling the whole pack
> down
> > > (single battery replacement).
> > >
> > > Joe Smalley
> > > Rural Kitsap County WA
> > > Fiesta 48 volts
> > > NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 8:49 PM
> > > Subject: I killed it :(
> > >
> > >
> > > > It looks like I was at least a week late with my battery balancer.
> Last
> > > weekend, my Tropica suddenly quit. The bar graph showed I still had some
> > > juice but it wouldn't go. I pushed it home and checked the pack voltage
> 70.
> > > I tried to charge it but no luck. Today I pulled the pack and checked
> all
> > > the batteries. All had water, voltages 6.17, 6.20, 6.19, ..., 4.05 Oh
> no! I
> > > tried putting a 6 volt charger on that battery but no luck. It was only
> > > pulling .5-.6 amp and the voltage was 8.11.
> > > >
> > > > So, do I:
> > > > 1) try and nurse this battery back to health? If so how?
> > > > 2) replace this one with a new one?
> > > > 3) anybody got an old US125 near San Jose?
> > > >
> > > > I don't really want to put a new pack in until get get the balancer
> and
> > > charger working correctly. If #2 is the suggestion I fully expect to
> replace
> > > all the batteries at once when I get the new pack.
> > > >
> > > > Let's see if I've learned anything. I suspect the problem was that my
> > > charger doesn't do a proper finish charge which caused this poor battery
> to
> > > get further and further out of balance. This would
> explain
> > > where my range
> > > went. Am I close?
> > > >
> > > > thanks,
> > > > steve
> > > >
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I can speak about the Voloci a little bit, as I worked for Nova Cruz
around the time of the eX3 introduction and development on the Voloci.
Since I left, I have been told that the factory has been moved to
Pennsylvania. I believe this to be true, but I really don't know.
The dream of the Voloci was that it would have low energy consumption
per mile, like the eX3. THe eX3 had some real battery management issues
and some design issues. It was a very agressive design and when it
worked, it worked very well. At the time the Voloci was concieved, the
durability issues of the eX3 (when in the hands of the consumer) were
just starting to surface. But only just.
So the requirements were a heavier vehicle without kick/ pedal assist
that needed triple the energy per mile and needed to go 50% faster. And
the magic NiMH batteries at sizes larger than sub C get expensive and
rare quickly. I helped build the first mule and rode it a bit running on
8 eX3 packs in parallel. It had about as much range as a twin battery
eX3. And was only marginally faster. At this point, the brushless motor
and the controller (a Manzanita Micro MBH drive) worked together, but
they were not optimized to work together. (by no fault of either motor
or controller manufacturer) I got this feeling that we weren't goint to
triple the efficiency of the vehicle, and money was tight, so I left
Nova Cruz. Maybe they overcame these technical hurdles, I don't know.
I saw "production" Voloci bikes last year (a year overdue) and they
looked nice, but I had no idea how they performed, and I got the
impression that not a lot of testing had been done on that configuration.
I hope Nova Cruz isn't gone, the products were clever and interesting to
look at. Maybe they really are setting up a new shop in PA and doing
some redesign to use what they learned. I hope so.
Seth
> -----------------------------------------------------
>
> The few who own a Voloci like the fact they can get away with riding it as a
> bicycle (no licensing)
>
> The biggest pros and cons.....
>
> Nova Cruz, the manufacturer of the Voloci and the Xooter board scooter are
> believed to be out of business, though the website is still up.
> They have not responded to communications in months, many folks who sent
> their machines in for repair have heard nothing for months.
> This has been discussed to death on the zappy electric scooter list.
>
> What this means is Voloci and Xooter owners have limited production
> collector's items.
> It also means any replacement parts are made of unobtainium.
> If anyone on this list knows anythimg concerning the status of Nova Cruz I
> would love to hear about it.
>
> On the other hand........ all the body, mechanical, and electrical parts for
> the MoRad 1500 are available for purchase individually.
> Roderick at evparts.com has the parts manuals and access to all the parts.
>
> For this reason alone, it seems wise not to get a Voloci (if you can find
> one, not even one on Ebay)
> Additionally, the Voloci's NiMH battery packs were nothing but trouble for
> the owners,
> I believe they sold a very few with lead-acid packs before production
> stopped.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Roy LeMeur Seattle WA
>
> My Electric Vehicle Pages:
> http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
>
> Informational Electric Vehicle Links:
> http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
> http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
--
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow, its deja vu all over again. :^) Actually this has been discussed to
death several times in the past. Just search the archives for Article
625. The thing you have to understand is the codes applicable to RV power
stations are different from those for EV charging stations. You know and I
know there should be no real difference, but the lawyers for the major auto
makers apparently felt that the RV type solution would introduce too many
liability issues. The result is a specific and in many ways absurd set of
requirements that only apply to EV charging stations. Unfortunately, this
also resulted in an overly expensive and far too specific connection design
and I believe this has significantly discouraged the construction and
installation of EV charging stations. Many would see in this a conspiracy
to stop the electric car, but that would suggest an organized competent
group behind this, and I don't see that. I just see BS, stupidity, and
corporate lawyers run amuck.
Since cities adopt and adapt the NEC at their own whim, perhaps we should
each attempt to make our local Department of Codes aware of the situation
and suggest a simpler more rational alternative. Of course, that might
make it worse. At the moment most of us are slipping under the radar so to
speak, and the extra attention might not be a good idea.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hi all
could someone clearly explain inductive charging and conductive charging.
which is advantageous?
veena
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've heard a lot of good things about the Morad 1500, and I like it. In
looking around on the web I saw this one
http://www.nycewheels.com/evt4000e.html
It is an EVT400-e. Anyone know anything good/bad about these?
James
James F. Jarrett
Information Systems Associate
Charlotte Country Day School
(704)943-4562
Beware of programmers who carry screwdrivers. - Leonard Brandwein
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Didn't see anyone else respond to this. Here is the link to the Electo
Automotive that has more details
http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/dc-dc.shtml
Here is the chart on their page for those without web access..
Features
Double isolation of power components for safety
Reverse polarity protection
Overload protection
Short circuit protection
Transient protection
Inaudible operation
Robust construction
UL approved
Specifications
Physical
Length Width Depth Weight
8.625" 5.625" 3.625" 4 lbs.
Input Voltage 76.8 - 140.8
Output Voltage 13.5 V Regulated
Output Current 25 A Maximum
Output Watts 330 W Continuous
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
What are the specifications of a Sevcon 622 - 11 - 14 DC/DC onverter
other than 128vdc/121vdc ?
Only the model number was listed in the for sale area os socalev.
What is the wattage rating of the DC/DC converter ?
Is that converting up to 128 vdc down to 12 vdc ?
What is range for converting from (24 vdc to 128 vdc or some other range)
?
What is the actual output voltage (12, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 14, 14.5, etc) and
is it adjustable ?
Menlo Park III,
Bill
On Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:49:34 -0800 (PST) Joseph Vaughn-Perling
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
Listed here:
http://www.socalev.com/for_sale.htm
A Rusco charger
and a DC/DC converter for up to 128V/12V
50% off of list price.
--
____
__/o|__\~ ~ ~
`@ [EMAIL PROTECTED](=
http://www.SoCalEV.com
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
Visit www.juno.com
Mark Hastings
'83 S-10 EV Blazer
www.geocities.com/evblazer
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2003 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: Standard Public Charging Station
Hi All;
Mike sez;
> Wow, its deja vu all over again. :^) Actually this has been discussed to
> death several times in the past.
(Snip)
. Unfortunately, this
> also resulted in an overly expensive and far too specific connection
design
> and I believe this has significantly discouraged the construction and
> installation of EV charging stations. Many would see in this a conspiracy
> to stop the electric car, but that would suggest an organized competent
> group behind this, and I don't see that. I just see BS, stupidity, and
> corporate lawyers run amuck.
Mike's got a few good points here,as usual. Like Charging stations
have become a problem, with less than a half dozen EV's in CT, Hmmm, Maybe a
dozen, being generous, here. Nobody is rushing to put up Avcons or some
other useless to homebuilders setup. Just give us outside 120 volt outlets!
So many times people say that, when looking at my car, that in cold country,
Alasks Minnesota Decodas, outlets are left outside to Plug GAS cars in, so
THEY will start. Is this a problem? I don't think so, they are just THERE,
ready for all comers. I see lottsa 120 volt outlets in my bicycle travels in
NYC streets. Many where yu could plug in. Of course there are few places
that you can PARK in NYC anyhow, I mean on the street, next to the outlet,
for a meaningful time.
>
> Since cities adopt and adapt the NEC at their own whim, perhaps we should
> each attempt to make our local Department of Codes aware of the situation
> and suggest a simpler more rational alternative. Of course, that might
> make it worse. At the moment most of us are slipping under the radar so
to
> speak, and the extra attention might not be a good idea.
Yup! We make do with the 120 volt outside outlets, that we can find,
and hope for more to come on line, so to speak. I know where I can plug in
on my route home, if it comes to running out of juice. Don't we all? Of
course it sure be nice to have some 50 amp 240 Range Plugs in public domain.
But I'm SURE they can't leave those around? Sure haven't seen any anywhere
I havent put them! I can wire one in at work, probably will do, when it
gets above freezing for a few daze. Tuck it in back, out of sight, protected
from the rain, for a quicker charge.Only I will know that it is there, and
where. Of course I would devoldge where it is for any future EVers here.
With gas prices going up, get more interest in Electrics, anyhow. Nobody
really serious.Yet.
Thoughts on Plugging Along, again.
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The GE motor that I smoked in Paul's car (running it with out fan )has been
fixed for a while but I haven't had time to make the 70 mile trip to put it
in so it has sat in my yard waiting , Last Monday I had some time , I got
the old 8 hp gen out form under a tarp and cleaned and fooled with it the
week before. I could have borrowed a gas car but Paul had some people he
wanted me to meet and show the EV Mazda to and driving the ev seemed like
the right thing to do .
Nothing fancy about this truck
just 20 golf cart batts and a Curtis controller . With the electric lift
made from a ice crusher motor hanging in the shop over hand I put the motor
and generator in the back . I
had made Paul one of my BMS's (2 11 pole brake before make rotating switches
, I took the tackcometer and make it into a expanded volt meter with a
zenor diode and resistor ( after over an hour of trying digetent zeners and
resistors it showed full 15v and a little off 0 was 10.3 v ) and also set it
up so it could be an amp (by taking a voltage drop off the power wires)
meter with a switch to switch between the two. So I load the truck up Monday
morning and off I go . By the end of the street the generator had died. Gas
it up and hope it will start running better. It's been about 4 years since I
used it to go to the last Florida solar energy center 's Sunday challenge
and I just don't like it. All the noise and the gas dripping and oil , All
because I need another 15 mph./ I believe I could have made the trip on
electric but would have had to drive 35/40 mph. This would have taken 2
hours or 45mimits longer that driving 60 but instead I spend hours fooling
with the generator and after a few more miles from the gas station it
die's again . I still go on knowing that if it keeps driving I can just
drive
slow without it. I guess it know I wasn't turning back so it started
running and down 95 I went going 55mph , looking at my e-meter and figuring
how long I could drive this fast . after 50 miles I hit some traffic and
the
start and stop killed the gen . I started a few times but as soon as I hit
the go pedal the load would pull the gen rpm down and I figure I'll drive
slow and forget the gen . made it there pulling 130 ah form the batteries
When we lifted the com bar last time by driving without a fan I but my
recently repaired 11 kostov motor in his Porsche 911 so he could keep
driving . I told him to get to know it real well so we could compare the two
ect.
He had the car jack up and the motor switch was quick . That little
voice it my head hat keeps me from doing the wrong was not working and with
the choice's of 1 taking air from the side air scoops 2 running blower form
the power coming out of the controller and 3 running it off the 156v after
the contactor. Joe's no. 4 was not in the picture as it just would have
taken me to long to build but probable would have saved the motor . I put
an amp meter on the blower and it was drawling 2 amps which is a lot when
you only have 25 ah to work with. So we decided to try the air scoop for a
short ride and check to see if it gets to hot , the 3" al duck fits just
right and it easy to set up .
I'll finish this sad tale later and its getting late
Steve clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John, it is good to have you back! BTW, I have been trying to get you for
months, called your house, etc. Did you get the CD I made for you and stuck
in your door early one morning several months ago?
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2003 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: The Ulitmate Resume, pt. 1
> Hello to All,
>
> Just a quick note (is that possible?)....
>
> John Wayland wrote:
>
> > Hello to All,
> >
> > My apologies to the list for my little mishap the other day....poof!!!
.... away the
> > unfinished email went...to the EVDL.....spelling and
> > grammatical errors left uncorrected.....
>
> Ye-a-h......then I do this:
>
> 'Ulitmate'
>
> I promise, part 2's title will get spell-checked.... keep an eye out for
'The Ultimate Resume
> (the forklift on steroids), pt. 2'
>
> See Ya.....John (unbelievably, repeat spelling bee contest winner in my
elementary school
> years) Wayland
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger Daisley wrote:
I would like to buy a VW based dune buggy (Kellison, Manx, etc.) and
convert it to an EV for local California "running around". Does anyone
have any experience with this conversion? My main questions revolve
around battery locations, etc. I plan on using an 8" ADC.
Is this a practical conversion or just a great idea filled with pitfalls
and headaches?
Its a wonderful idea. I have an unknown Manx clone beach buggy EV.
You can find it on the EV photo album <http://evalbum.com/125.html>.
I should really change the pictures in the photo album, those are
from June of 1999. There are some really nice pictures of it from the
OEVA Awareness Day 2002 as well as some shots of the car in its own
neighborhood by Geoff and John the day after the 2002 VEVA show.
There is another EV beach buggy owned by Scott Hull in CA.
There are no real pitfalls, they are very simple and light vehicles.
You have to think about your battery choice and layout, its hard to
pack alot of battery into one. The range suffers some at freeway
speed due to poor areodynamics. Certain choices are made based on
looks rather than range, but with such a light vehicle it doesn't
seem to be much of a penalty. An ADC 8 inch motor should make a good
choice, I am running a Prestolite motor on mine. These are about the
same size.
Neon
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone on list have a 2hp (or better) 220 ac electric motor they want
to part with for a fair price?
I have need of one for a table saw.
James
James F. Jarrett
Information Systems Associate
Charlotte Country Day School
(704)943-4562
Beware of programmers who carry screwdrivers. - Leonard Brandwein
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>
> More questions. Why is the center lead cut on the mk1 rev C and soldered in
> and used on the D rev?
> > > Lawrence, It's a IRF Z48, any 60 volt TO-220 mosfet will do. There are
> > > hundreds.
> I can give you a complete BOM of the Mk1 s and the MK2s.
> > > There should be NO guess work here, just get the right stuff.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Rich Rudman
> > > Manzanita Micro
> > > www.manzanitamicro.com
> > > 1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
> > >
> >
Because I had a couple of thousand 2 lead devices. And the bolt hole is
the same as the middle pin of this and most TO-220 devices. So I don't
need the middle pin, and I get to use throw-a-way parts.
Joe has the box of Regs you sent me. I have PAY him to fix 'em. You get
to pay me. You might want to figure out how NOT to fry the regs. It's
gonna get spendy if you keep this up.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
First, let me welcome John Wayland back to the EV list. His informative
and entertaining posts have been missed!
John Wayland wrote:
> Gotta take Lee to task here... the tires on my car are pushing 31k
> now, and after reading Lee's claims of just 20-30k miles, I just
> inspected them, and I am happy to report he's wrong. The tires on
> my car, even at 50 psi, have perfectly even tread wear (the center
> is not wearing out due to over-pressure) and have a conservative
> 40% tread left on them, maybe even 50%.
That's great. My comments are based mainly on information from the Prius
list. There too, the Potenza has a reputation for poor wear and
squirrelly handling.
The Toyota Prius tires are Bridgestone Potenza RE92 P175/65R14 84S,
"extra load" 1102 lbs, 50 psi max, treadwear 160. People who drive
normally and use Toyota's recommended tire pressures are having their
tires wear out (primarily from excessive wear on the edges) in 20-30k
miles. Toyota offered to replace any tires that showed excessive wear at
at 25,000 miles free of charge.
This tire is certainly low rolling resistance. People who change to
other tires routinely report worse gas mileage. Like my EV, the Prius
also has that "rolls forever" feeling in neutral.
Many people are running higher tire pressures (including me). This
improves fuel economy and handling, and reduces tire wear. The penalty
is a harsher ride and more noise (and the Potenza is already a noisy
tire). However, tire wear is still high; our Prius has 30k miles on it,
and the tread is 3/4 gone.
On handling; the Potenza is not a performance tire. But for the Prius at
least, the squirrelly handling is solved by careful front end alignment.
The improved settings are still within factory specs, so there hasn't
been a problem getting dealers to do it.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello All, especially northwesterners. We are having an external Nema 14-50
receptacle with a GFI circuit breaker above it mounted on the North corner
of our new facility here in Port Townsend, Washington. It will be marked
with a charging station sign and I will look into seeing if the state will
put up a sign on state highway 20, maybe even out on highway 101. This is
Rudman approved for the PFC series chargers. We will eventually be
installing a modified marine terminal electrical stanchion with numerous 120
and 240 outlets. If there is much interest we may install an Avcon paddle. I
believe this will be the first public charging station on the peninsula. You
more adventurous Seattle folks may want to come for a visit sometime. Sheer
has already done the trip last year. You can find our location through
www.mapquest.com. Our physical address is: 107 Louisa Street, Port Townsend,
Washington, 98368. Charging will be open to the public 24/7.
Roderick
Roderick Wilde, President, EV Parts Inc.
Your Online EV Superstore
www.evparts.com
1-888-EV Parts (387-2787)
Phone: 360-385-7966 Fax: 360-385-7922
PO Box 221, 107 Louisa Street
Port Townsend, WA 98368
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:49 PM 3/2/03 -0500, you wrote:
It looks like I was at least a week late with my battery balancer. Last
weekend, my Tropica suddenly quit. The bar graph showed I still had some
juice but it wouldn't go. I pushed it home and checked the pack voltage
70. I tried to charge it but no luck. Today I pulled the pack and checked
all the batteries. All had water, voltages 6.17, 6.20, 6.19, ..., 4.05 Oh
no! I tried putting a 6 volt charger on that battery but no luck. It was
only pulling .5-.6 amp and the voltage was 8.11.
So, do I:
1) try and nurse this battery back to health? If so how?
2) replace this one with a new one?
3) anybody got an old US125 near San Jose?
Try Jim Ramos at American Battery in Hayward, 510-259-1150. He may have a
usable core someone has turned in.
Also, try Don Gillis at the EAA (sorry, don't have his info handy). He
runs a battery exchange program.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
Thanks for the reply. I sent Don an email (I hope he's still at IBM) and left a
message for Jim. Standing by....
Steve
In a message dated 3/3/2003 1:26:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, Electro Automotive
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>At 11:49 PM 3/2/03 -0500, you wrote:
>>It looks like I was at least a week late with my battery balancer. Last
>>weekend, my Tropica suddenly quit. The bar graph showed I still had some
>>juice but it wouldn't go. I pushed it home and checked the pack voltage
>>70. I tried to charge it but no luck. Today I pulled the pack and checked
>>all the batteries. All had water, voltages 6.17, 6.20, 6.19, ..., 4.05 Oh
>>no! I tried putting a 6 volt charger on that battery but no luck. It was
>>only pulling .5-.6 amp and the voltage was 8.11.
>>
>>So, do I:
>>1) try and nurse this battery back to health? If so how?
>>2) replace this one with a new one?
>>3) anybody got an old US125 near San Jose?
>
>Try Jim Ramos at American Battery in Hayward, 510-259-1150. �He may have a
>usable core someone has turned in.
>
>Also, try Don Gillis at the EAA (sorry, don't have his info handy). �He
>runs a battery exchange program.
>
>
>Mike Brown
>Electro Automotive �POB 1113 �Felton �CA 95018-1113 �Telephone 831-429-1989
>http://www.electroauto.com � [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe this is the same Sevcon I have in my VoltsRabbit
conversion. I think we have left unanswered as to whether it's
adjustable, and yes, the output voltage is adjustable. I turned
mine down from about 14.4-14.5V to 14.2V. You have to take the
case off (and break the warranty tape if it's still there) to get
at one of the adjustment screws inside. If details are needed, I
can probably find them in my logbook, but a bit of experimenting
figures it out pretty quickly. As I recall, I used a
variac/rectifier to simulate the input DC voltage so that I got
the adjustment set correctly.
Note that the Sevcon seems to also do a fair job of discharging
your aux. battery, as apparently it has a set of caps inside that
always need to be kept topped off. Mike Slominski tuned me into
this, and advised me to put a relay in to disconnect the DC-DC
from the aux battery. I've also got a clock running in the car.
So I'm trying a solar panel to keep the aux battery (this is my
second one in 7-8 years) from going down the tubes, as it's
coming in at <12V standing after only a month since the last time
I put a charger on it.
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
NBEAA treasurer and webmaster
www.geocities.com/nbeaa
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2003 5:57 AM
Subject: Re: EV parts for sale
> Didn't see anyone else respond to this. Here is the link to the
Electo
> Automotive that has more details
> http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/dc-dc.shtml
> Here is the chart on their page for those without web access..
>
> Features
> Double isolation of power components for safety
> Reverse polarity protection
> Overload protection
> Short circuit protection
> Transient protection
> Inaudible operation
> Robust construction
> UL approved
>
> Specifications
> Physical
> Length Width Depth Weight
> 8.625" 5.625" 3.625" 4 lbs.
>
> Input Voltage 76.8 - 140.8
> Output Voltage 13.5 V Regulated
> Output Current 25 A Maximum
> Output Watts 330 W Continuous
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > What are the specifications of a Sevcon 622 - 11 - 14 DC/DC
onverter
> > other than 128vdc/121vdc ?
> > Only the model number was listed in the for sale area os
socalev.
> > What is the wattage rating of the DC/DC converter ?
> > Is that converting up to 128 vdc down to 12 vdc ?
> > What is range for converting from (24 vdc to 128 vdc or some
other range)
> > ?
> > What is the actual output voltage (12, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 14,
14.5, etc) and
> > is it adjustable ?
> > Menlo Park III,
> > Bill
> >
> > On Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:49:34 -0800 (PST) Joseph
Vaughn-Perling
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> >> Listed here:
> >> http://www.socalev.com/for_sale.htm
> >>
> >> A Rusco charger
> >> and a DC/DC converter for up to 128V/12V
> >>
> >> 50% off of list price.
> >>
> >> --
> >> ____
> >> __/o|__\~ ~ ~
> >> `@ [EMAIL PROTECTED](=
> >> http://www.SoCalEV.com
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________
> > Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> > Only $9.95 per month!
> > Visit www.juno.com
> >
>
>
>
> Mark Hastings
> '83 S-10 EV Blazer
> www.geocities.com/evblazer
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve Clunn wrote:
> I made Paul one of my BMS's (two 11-pole break before make rotary
> switches). I made the tachometer into an expanded scale voltmeter
> with a zener diode and resistor. It showed full 15v and a little
> off 0 was 10.3v), and also set it up so it could be an ammeter (by
> taking a voltage drop off the power wires) with a switch to switch
> between the two.
Neat hack, Steve!
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Chancey wrote:
> Since cities adopt and adapt the NEC at their own whim, perhaps we
> should each attempt to make our local Department of Codes aware of
> the situation and suggest a simpler more rational alternative. Of
> course, that might make it worse. At the moment most of us are
> slipping under the radar so to speak, and the extra attention might
> not be a good idea.
Mike, that's a great idea! Perhaps the EAA or some other group can draft
a replacement for NEC 625. Each of us can go to our local Dept. of
Codes, and lobby to get it specified instead of NEC 625.
It could be as simple as saying, "I want to install a free outdoor EV
charging outlet at my home or business. The NEC standard was written for
EVs in California that are no longer available. So here is a more
generic alternative standard, that is easier to meet and enforce, since
it is based on the RV standards already in place."
Eventually, we might even be able to get the NEC to change 625 (but that
will take a lot of time and money).
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
