EV Digest 3891
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Glueing Permanent Magnets Back In
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: ETEK Motor Info
by richard ball <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Glueing Permanent Magnets Back In
by "Raymond Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In (Rod H)
by "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: FCEV are EV's too Escapes by Ford, somewhat.
by "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Rust free 914 doner?
by algodfrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: FCEV are EV's too Escapes by Ford, somewhat.
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Thanks and more details (WAS: Running clutchless?)
by Claudio Natoli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Rf Tags (OT)
by "J Sullivan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Rust free 914 doner?
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In ( Neon John)
by "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Power Steering Pump Connections - confirmation
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Glueing Permanent Magnets Back In
by "Kevin Coughlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In ( Neon John)
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Rust free 914 doner?
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Thanks and more details (WAS: Running clutchless?)
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Rust free 914 doner?
by Ben Apollonio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Rust free 914 doner?
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Small EV motors, Re: ETEK Motor Info
by "Keith Richtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Fw: Hello The list sent me an attachment.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Production Company looking for turn of the century (type) electri
c car
by "Reinhard, Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Small EV motors, Re: ETEK Motor Info
by "Keith Richtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
Oh yeah, Steve may want the caps back, seeing as I never used them.
Seth
On Oct 31, 2004, at 6:29 PM, Seth Allen wrote:
OK, here is the deal. I got in on this station car. A 1980 VW Rabbit.
72V 400+ amp Curtis series wound, K&W BC-20 charger. It is rough, and
located in Southern NH. I bought it cheap. $500. Electro Automotive
kit with a 4 speed, a 6.7" motor. Slow, but useable. E-meter. I never
got to a point where I could use it as a station car. So I can store
it over the winter, or sell it. I have balanced the batteries a bit. I
also have a few DC-DC converters for it. It has invicta GLRs on 3
wheels. I have a few more alloys for it. I might even have swaybars
and snow tires for it. Steve Cicorcia sent me capacitors for PFC
correction for the K&W but I haven't installed them.
It is rough, it had a rear battery box fire, but has been repaired. It
has abused floodies in it. I figure the couple of DC-DC converters
makes it worth $700. You pick it up. No title. If you want it
registered in NH, I can do that, but it becomes a hassle so the price
goes to $1000. A NH registration might come with a title, I dunno.
Many thanks to Bob Rice who delivered it to me. Unfortunately when I
quit Solectria I no longer was at a place where a station car made
sense, so it is your gain.
A warning: if I get a bunch of people who want it, it is $700 or best
offer, as in highest offer. Remeber, it is rough, but I figure a
controller, transaxle and charger are worth that. You could buy the
clean 1992 VW jetta in the yard too (my parents' old car), and have a
great clean car to swap it all into. A 144V system would be nice, too.
Seth Allen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It think it was the original formula.
Prep consisted of sanding the mating surfaces to get rid of the high spots
that widen the gap. Blow it out with air to disperse the dust. Then wiping
it out with a degreaser and blowing it dry.
In each case, only one magnet (of four) was loose. It held itself in place.
After I applied the JBWeld, I moved it around a little to get the adhesive
to creep over the entire surface. All I had to do was insert some pencils on
either side of the loose magnet to keep it from moving toward the adjacent
poles while the adhesive cured.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Glueing Permanent Magnets Back In
> Hi Joe,
>
> Did you use the regular JB Weld, or the JB Weld ~Quick~. Would you
elaborate
> on what you did to prep?
>
> Does it matter what polarity the magnets are put it at? I had a plan to
> check them with a compass needle so that all the North edges face the same
> direction. Good plan, or does it matter?
>
> The magnets were removed and fiddled around with and then placed back
> inside the case with no thought as to what polarity issues might be
lurking
> down the road. Many of the remaining magnets look as if they don't have
> enough adhesive to properly hold them in place. One person recomended
> removing the other magnets as well and re-glueing all of them at once. My
> instinct here is one of "don't fix it if it isn't broken", but if I'm
> turning the motor and magnets start dropping from heat or whatever, I may
> have bigger problems than some chipped edges from manually removing on my
> terms while re-glueing the other three.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hi
i have an etek motor with a 4QD 300A controller for my bike project
does any one have any advice regarding any issues i might have with this set up ?
thanks
reb
Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Keith,
I have the programmer, but can't part with it since
the TEVan also uses the same one!
I may be interested in the the motors.
Seth has an Autocad drawing for a coupler that will
fit the splines of this motor. He sent one to me
which I used on my Dyno setup at work. We
convienently had aluminum end bells that fit this
motor that required a few holes drilled.
I pressed a bearing on the coupler that Seth sent and
was running in no time.
I might also be interested in a control. Most of the
junk I have sitting around is 1st generation before
the bugs were worked out.
Thanks,
Rod
--- Keith Richtman wrote:
> jerry dycus said:
> > Any good, reasonable costs, sep-ex motors,
> > controllers about 72vdc out their that would work
> for
> > a 1200 lb ev direct drive?
>
> If you can find someone with a GE programmer, I have
> a couple of 350A 72V
> sep-ex controls I would sell cheap. I also have the
> GE motors to match,
> but they are GEM NEV motors, so no front bearing.
> Curtis also makes
> sep-ex controllers.
>
> Keith
>
>
Regards
Richard
---------------------------------
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well I am glad you guys got it to work, no rebuilder I know have has to this
point. As for prep, we cleaned the barrels with aluminum oxide blasting,
then the next time we tried we used a glass bead blast afterwards. We also
chemically cleaned the surface for residue after blasting. The epoxies we
used were the same ones used by the manufacturers.
Where we are failing may be the clamp pressure. Starter barrels are
extremely small compared to the larger motors you were likely repairing. So
clamping is near impossible, and the magnets are rather thin. This very well
could be our downfall. There might also be a problem with the strength of
the smaller magnets versus the larger ones. The smaller ones having more
force for there size.
But even going back a few years ago. The manufactures we discussed this
with, told us they did repairs be removing all the magnets and starting over
again. That they couldn't do just one. I will phone Scott Motors this week
and see if anything has changed.
If you guys want I can also contact Dick from Vensel Enterprises and see if
he still carries the proper epoxy for doing the repair.
Raymond
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Rick,
> I'll see what was used on the original print for that
> motor. I'll talk to our manf. plant about their
> process for gluing the magnets (assuming there are
> prints still left!!!).
> Rod
Hi Rod,
Hey, thanks!! I appreciate it. I know what you mean about prints still left.
Stuff where I work comes and goes like that too. It sure seems like the
perfect motor, and I have confidence that one way or another, it will be put
back into use again soon.
TTYL!
Regards,
Rick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lots of people are used to 'plugging in' a cell phone to charge it but they don't think
this can be done with a car as well.
Steve Love [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: FCEV are EV's too Escapes by Ford, somewhat.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 3:33 PM
> Subject: Re: FCEV are EV's too
>
>
> > I saw the Escape Hybrid at the Long Beach Auto Show yesterday. Asked the
> spokesmodel about the battery specs. She knew it was 330V, but had no clue
> as to the capacity, or the replacement price.
> >
> > I also checked out the new Prius. Asked that rep about whether they had
> any plans to beef up the battery. She asked, "what, you mean for more
> performance?" I said, "No, so it can be driven longer distances in
> EV-mode." As soon as she heard the word "EV" she responded with, "Oh no,
> the Prius doesn't have to be plugged in."
> >
> > I love how they're trained to respond to any EV questions with this
> obvious spin. She didn't even answer the question I asked. Pavlov
> conditioning?
> >
> > Richard
> > Hi All;
>
> Ditto, Jack Gretta an' I arrived about the same time in our EV's at the
> Ford place in Old Saybrook, CT .He in his MG Midget, I in my Rabbit. I drove
> past the big glass fronted showroom, looking for a place to PARK, among the
> new unsold vehicles. the voltures, ops, SALES folks came out right away. "
> Electric" they said, I said " You have a 'lectric here, too, that we'd like
> to meet" Turned out they knew Jack, hell! He had bought his wife's car ,a
> Taurus, or Sable ,thing from their establishment, a few years ago. I guess
> our rather ratical outlook, I grinningly asked for a THINK. Hah! But, credit
> due here, they actually HEARD of it, assured me that they were "Not
> Available" Duh! Well, when they had determined that we wern't checkbook in
> hand to BUY a Escape, the welcome went damn cold. I HATE car dealerships!
> The one down the road, in Old Saybrook,Toyota, didn't want to hear about it
> when my Peius muffler fell apart last spring. Lorenson Toyota couldn't be
> bothered with a warrenty repair. !!! "Take it back where you got it!" I
> DID, Tony Ascrizzi had got it, I bought it from him, Westboro Toyota in MA.
> fixed it cheerfully. But I had to drive it up to MA a 100 mile trip! But it
> was better than a 1600 bux fix locally!
>
> Back to the story. "Well, we have a few perspective buyers coming in to
> drive it" Our welcome went cold. I asked if we could SEE the Escape." Sure,
> it's out back" We went "out back" $$$34500 in change to drive it home! Oh
> joy! It was unlocked, popped the hood to see the engine room. Feh! Not much
> to see 'cuz of the plastic "Hybrid" cover over everything. The battery hides
> where the spare tire well usually lives. Of course the " High Voltage"
> stickers are a dead givaway. Can't really SEE anything, all safely covered
> up from prying fingers or eyes. Damn good thinhg it is as it is a 300 volt
> system! But no ride. That damn car sat there over an hour, NOBODY drove it
> or even LOOKED at it. IE he coulda flipped us the leys and said: "You have
> about 15 minutes, half hour, try it, see what ya think" it was very neatly
> done inside, nothing that anybody couldnt just put key in , start, put in
> drive and aim it. No tuitorial on how to drive it, like my Prius, just turn
> the key and go! 9500 miles later, never opened the hood ' cept to check the
> oil, water, etc, something you do with ANY ICE car!
>
> They didn't say we COULDN'T drive it."Come back , maybe next
> wednesday," IF it isn't sold!Yeah! Right! the last one sold off the lot in a
> day. Glad biz is good, but it won't be MY bix! Phooey! I can buy a nice set
> of exhotic batteries for my next ev with 34k IF I had it to begin with, All
> I saw in the Escape was a four place car. Hmmm? Like my Prius. OK I couldn't
> do much four wheelin' in a Prius, as I could in the Escape, but in CT that
> 'aint my thing.
>
> Somebody else will have to give you a drivers report, I guess? Sigh!
>
> Still All Electric, for now
>
> Bob
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Otmar,
I am trying to help a friend here find a rust free 914 to replace his
collapsing 914EV body.
California and Arizona would seem likely sources, but have you any
suggestions or leads?
Would appreciate any help or suggestions,
Thanks
Al Godfrey
330v Porsche 928 ZEV
Richmond, BC
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I guess living in Los Angeles is different than the
rest of the country. the dealer was more than happy to
tell us all about the escape hybrid, take us for a
test drive and send us home with a new car. all in the
same day. the guy has a lot full of them. maybe he's
just forward thinking. but we are on the left coast.
Gadget
> > > I saw the Escape Hybrid at the Long Beach Auto
> Show yesterday. Asked the
> > spokesmodel about the battery specs. She knew it
> was 330V, but had no clue
> > as to the capacity, or the replacement price.
> > >
> > > I also checked out the new Prius. Asked that
> rep about whether they had
> > any plans to beef up the battery. She asked,
> "what, you mean for more
> > performance?" I said, "No, so it can be driven
> longer distances in
> > EV-mode." As soon as she heard the word "EV" she
> responded with, "Oh no,
> > the Prius doesn't have to be plugged in."
> > >
> > > I love how they're trained to respond to any EV
> questions with this
> > obvious spin. She didn't even answer the question
> I asked. Pavlov
> > conditioning?
> > >
> > > Richard
> > > Hi All;
> >
> > Ditto, Jack Gretta an' I arrived about the
> same time in our EV's at the
> > Ford place in Old Saybrook, CT .He in his MG
> Midget, I in my Rabbit. I drove
> > past the big glass fronted showroom, looking for a
> place to PARK, among the
> > new unsold vehicles. the voltures, ops, SALES
> folks came out right away. "
> > Electric" they said, I said " You have a 'lectric
> here, too, that we'd like
> > to meet" Turned out they knew Jack, hell! He had
> bought his wife's car ,a
> > Taurus, or Sable ,thing from their establishment,
> a few years ago. I guess
> > our rather ratical outlook, I grinningly asked for
> a THINK. Hah! But, credit
> > due here, they actually HEARD of it, assured me
> that they were "Not
> > Available" Duh! Well, when they had determined
> that we wern't checkbook in
> > hand to BUY a Escape, the welcome went damn cold.
> I HATE car dealerships!
> > The one down the road, in Old Saybrook,Toyota,
> didn't want to hear about it
> > when my Peius muffler fell apart last spring.
> Lorenson Toyota couldn't be
> > bothered with a warrenty repair. !!! "Take it back
> where you got it!" I
> > DID, Tony Ascrizzi had got it, I bought it from
> him, Westboro Toyota in MA.
> > fixed it cheerfully. But I had to drive it up to
> MA a 100 mile trip! But it
> > was better than a 1600 bux fix locally!
> >
> > Back to the story. "Well, we have a few
> perspective buyers coming in to
> > drive it" Our welcome went cold. I asked if we
> could SEE the Escape." Sure,
> > it's out back" We went "out back" $$$34500 in
> change to drive it home! Oh
> > joy! It was unlocked, popped the hood to see the
> engine room. Feh! Not much
> > to see 'cuz of the plastic "Hybrid" cover over
> everything. The battery hides
> > where the spare tire well usually lives. Of course
> the " High Voltage"
> > stickers are a dead givaway. Can't really SEE
> anything, all safely covered
> > up from prying fingers or eyes. Damn good thinhg
> it is as it is a 300 volt
> > system! But no ride. That damn car sat there over
> an hour, NOBODY drove it
> > or even LOOKED at it. IE he coulda flipped us the
> leys and said: "You have
> > about 15 minutes, half hour, try it, see what ya
> think" it was very neatly
> > done inside, nothing that anybody couldnt just put
> key in , start, put in
> > drive and aim it. No tuitorial on how to drive it,
> like my Prius, just turn
> > the key and go! 9500 miles later, never opened the
> hood ' cept to check the
> > oil, water, etc, something you do with ANY ICE
> car!
> >
> > They didn't say we COULDN'T drive it."Come
> back , maybe next
> > wednesday," IF it isn't sold!Yeah! Right! the last
> one sold off the lot in a
> > day. Glad biz is good, but it won't be MY bix!
> Phooey! I can buy a nice set
> > of exhotic batteries for my next ev with 34k IF I
> had it to begin with, All
> > I saw in the Escape was a four place car. Hmmm?
> Like my Prius. OK I couldn't
> > do much four wheelin' in a Prius, as I could in
> the Escape, but in CT that
> > 'aint my thing.
> >
> > Somebody else will have to give you a drivers
> report, I guess? Sigh!
> >
> > Still All Electric, for now
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
>
>
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
I just wanted to say "thank you" to everyone for their thoughts on
clutch/less running. It was useful to see what different people think is
important, both for and against. Now just need to digest it all and decide.
:-)
Bob Rice writes:
> Hey! Keep us informed as ya go. Nobody should hafta go this alone!
Will do! I'm quite sure I'll be able to manage a few dumb questions along
the way.
We (as in my wife and I) are converting a '95 Daihatsu Charade G200S, 5
speed. Original curb weight of ~830 kg (1830 lbs), GVM 1280 kg (2822 lbs).
Hoping to convert it to an EV for my commute, which is 64 kms round-trip...
I think we'll get close to that for 80% D.O.D, just not sure which side of
"close". :-)
> We're here for you. Welcome.
Thanks for the welcome. Frankly, if not for the information I've picked up
just by lurking on the list for the past year or so, I wouldn't be brave
enough to even start.
> Where are ya? May be other Listers just around the corner?
I'm in (western) Sydney, Australia. Funny you should mention that, because
it turns out that there is another lister just around the corner... and we
met just recently. I guess I should let him name himself.
Cheers,
Claudio
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--- Begin Message ---
Active RFID tags are available and widely in use in the Airline industry to
track food karts, the Star Alliance network uses them: Air Canada, Air New
Zealand, Asiana Airlines, the Austrian Airlines Group, British Midland,
Lufthansa, to name a few. Saves then loosing $1000 food karts. They can
have up to a 300 meter range and can be poled or picked up by passing
through an active zone and have options to pole passive tags in the
surrounding area. I think in quantity they are about $10 USD each. Scanpak
out of Montreal, Quebec set this up I believe.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Shanab [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 1:46 PM
To: EVlist
Subject: Rf Tags
Lee is absolutly correct, distance would not be desired. As I think
about it rfid tags would only be of use in an inductive paddle , 1"
(range are also avail) but probably wouldn't work cause of the
interferance, bad idea.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Otmar,
I am trying to help a friend here find a rust free 914 to replace
his collapsing 914EV body.
California and Arizona would seem likely sources, but have you any
suggestions or leads?
Would appreciate any help or suggestions,
Thanks
Al Godfrey
330v Porsche 928 ZEV
Richmond, BC
Hi Al,
I'm guessing this was not intended for the list, but since the 914
makes such a great EV, I'll reply here.
He he, That's a good one!! A real knee slapper.
Rust Free 914 Wanted! :-0
I suggest it would be easier to find peace on earth. :-)
Sorry, it's just a running joke on the 914 club forum. Actually, we
also joke that they spend more time on jackstands while fixing them
than running.
They all have rust, the question is where and how much. There are
well known areas of rust, under the battery tray, the hell hole deep
in that corner of the engine compartment, the longs (under the
doors), the rear trunk, the seat mounts etc. The trick is learning to
find it in a potential donor before you buy it.
Some people go to amazing lengths to fix it, for example:
http://www.914club.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=16748
Actually I think I did see a rust free one sell recently, I think it
went for $20K or something like that.
That said, there are some like mine with rust that is not too bad and
can be repaired fairly easily. And yes, California and the southwest
are the best places to find those.
I suggest you check out the 914 club forum at http://www.914club.com/
it is an amazing resource. Click on the Forum link, go to the 914 and
9146 Technical forum, and ask for a rust free 914. It'll be good for
a laugh. :-)
The people there are great (if a bit crude at times) and the members
even include our very own EVDL list member Shannon Gnomes. (who
recently got his 914 running electrically, Right on!)
I'll also try to keep an eye out if I see any around here. What's the
budget? Usually $5K will get a pretty nice one.
Have fun!
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Most any high
> strength slow cure epoxy will work. I use one made by Dexter.
Hi John,
I'll check for anything made by Dexter. It would appear that you live back
east, so I may not have the same brand available here in AZ. I saw some
stuff rated as high as 2800 P.S.I.
>
> My surface prep consists of very thorough degreasing and cleaning of the
> frame and magnets and roughing of the frame surface with an engraving
> tool. >
Okay, that makes sense. About the same as I used to do when trying to
fiberglass patch over rusted out cars when I lived in OH.
> My trick for holding the magnets in place is to push a small inner tube
> such as that for a wheelbarrow tire into the frame and then inflating with
> 10-15 psi,
That's a really unique idea. I'll try that or something similar. I suppose
you were doing one magnet at a time? Otherwise I can see the tube slithering
around and scooting the magnet/s with it's movements.
>
> If the motor is to be used in high temperature service, Contronics
> http://cotronics.com/vo/cotr/ (among others) makes high temperature epoxy
> that is VERY strong.
>
I'll look through their offerings. Thanks for the Link. I would like to hope
that my motor would never have a body temp higher than 300 degrees F. If so,
I think magnets coming loose might be the least of my worries. That would
mean brushes and commutator are twice that temp or more.
>
> Yes, orientation matters. Best way to get it right is to check the
> polarity of each magnet before it is removed. It will normally be stuck
> to the armature but can be checked before forcing them apart.
>
Should be easy enough. I hope I can accomplish the orientation checks
without re/demagnetising the needle of a compass. They are either all north
or all south, so it's a pretty easy 50/50, unless there's more to it than
that?
Thanks for the info John. BTW, you have some very interesting photos on your
Web page. TTYL!
Regards,
Rick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 14:58:49 -0800, "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>I do not know for sure, but shouldn't the cooler get the high pressure (hot)
>fluid, at the output of the pump?
No. The cooler is designed for low pressure service. It would burst if
subjected to the high side pressure. Since most of the time the spool is
open and low pressure fluid is circulating continuously, it doesn't matter
as far as cooling goes.
Don, your connection scheme is correct.
John
>David C. Wilker Jr.
>USAF (RET)
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 2:43 PM
>Subject: Power Steering Pump Connections - confirmation
>
>
>>I am just about to get the power steering pump hoses made up at the local
>> hydraulic shop, and I wanted to confirm that I have the connections
>> correct:
>>
>> - from high pressure side of pump to high pressure side of steering rack
>> - from low pressure side of steering rack to cooler
>> - from cooler to top of reservoir
>> - from bottom of reservoir to low pressure side of pump
>>
>> Does this sound right?
>>
>> thanks
>> Don
>>
>>
>>
>> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
>> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
>>
>>
>>
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
With clamping, have you considered putting in a section of heavy inner tube,
and then inflating it with as much pressure as you can? It might give you a
better, more even pressure against the magnets from the inside out,
especially if you were to find some way to block the ends to keep the inner
tube from "oozing" out the ends. It may not be the trick for "perfect"
repairs, but it just may be the ticket for the "got it for super cheap and
just want to try it".
Kevin Coughlin
Snohomish, WA.....
....who's now interested in getting his hands on a "bad" motor to try this
on, and then making a mini bike out of it......
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Raymond Knight
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 4:24 PM
To: EV List
Subject: Re: Glueing Permanent Magnets Back In
Well I am glad you guys got it to work, no rebuilder I know have has to this
point. As for prep, we cleaned the barrels with aluminum oxide blasting,
then the next time we tried we used a glass bead blast afterwards. We also
chemically cleaned the surface for residue after blasting. The epoxies we
used were the same ones used by the manufacturers.
Where we are failing may be the clamp pressure. Starter barrels are
extremely small compared to the larger motors you were likely repairing. So
clamping is near impossible, and the magnets are rather thin. This very well
could be our downfall. There might also be a problem with the strength of
the smaller magnets versus the larger ones. The smaller ones having more
force for there size.
But even going back a few years ago. The manufactures we discussed this
with, told us they did repairs be removing all the magnets and starting over
again. That they couldn't do just one. I will phone Scott Motors this week
and see if anything has changed.
If you guys want I can also contact Dick from Vensel Enterprises and see if
he still carries the proper epoxy for doing the repair.
Raymond
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 21:43:06 -0700, "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Most any high
>> strength slow cure epoxy will work. I use one made by Dexter.
>
>
>Hi John,
>
>I'll check for anything made by Dexter. It would appear that you live back
>east, so I may not have the same brand available here in AZ. I saw some
>stuff rated as high as 2800 P.S.I.
I just went down to the shop and looked. This is Dexter Epoxi-Patch kit,
P/n 0151 Clear. Price is marked $8.50 a tube set. I noticed that one box
had the Loctite logo in fine print so apparently Dexter has been bought
out. I think I have a picture of this stuff on my little web site under
"neon". This is exactly the same stuff Varian sells as Torr-seal high
vacuum epoxy for about $60 a tube set. If you ever mess with high vacuum,
this stuff has a vapor pressure <10e-6 Torr after a bakeout.
>That's a really unique idea. I'll try that or something similar. I suppose
>you were doing one magnet at a time? Otherwise I can see the tube slithering
>around and scooting the magnet/s with it's movements.
Yep, one at a time. I moonlight at my friend's electric motor repair shop
so I get to do this fairly often. I'm trying to think of the last one I
did for myself. I think it was the blower motor for the heater in my 68
Fury. I removed the magnets to recharge them and glued them back.
Another tool along the same lines as the inner tube is the plumber's
rabbit. This is the gadget that you attach to a garden hose and shove
down a drain to blast out a clog. When you turn on the water, the rabbit
swells up until it seals the drain. Meanwhile water is spewing out the
far end. For this purpose, the spew hole has to be plugged. A suitably
sized Allen head set screw coated with an appropriate sealant (3M yellow
gorilla snot, for example) does that job nicely. The advantage of the
rabbit is that it can withstand much more pressure than an inner tube.
With most epoxies, the thinner the joint, the stronger it is.
Another trick I use on motors with fixed brush timing where the magnet
position needs to be precise is to drill and tap holes on each side of
where the magnet needs to be. I thread in Allen head set screws so that
the screw is flush with the outside of the motor but sticks out on the
inside enough to locate the magnets. I lock the screws in place with
green loctite sleeve and bearing locker. I leave them in place
permanently.
>Thanks for the info John. BTW, you have some very interesting photos on your
>Web page. TTYL!
Thanks much. My allocated space is full so I'm trying to decide on
another hosting service. I have LOTS of goodies to put up once I get the
space.
John
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't know 914's, but Porsche started galvanizing 911's in 1977,
and they tend to have many fewer problems with rust after that. It
would be worth checking if and when Porsche did that for the 914.
--- algodfrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Otmar,
> I am trying to help a friend here find a rust free 914 to replace
> his
> collapsing 914EV body.
> California and Arizona would seem likely sources, but have you any
> suggestions or leads?
>
> Would appreciate any help or suggestions,
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
His name is Mark :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Claudio Natoli [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Thanks and more details (WAS: Running clutchless?)
<...>
Bob Rice writes:
> Where are ya? May be other Listers just around the corner?
I'm in (western) Sydney, Australia. Funny you should mention that,
because
it turns out that there is another lister just around the corner... and
we
met just recently. I guess I should let him name himself.
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Nov 1, 2004, at 2:29 AM, David Dymaxion wrote:
I don't know 914's, but Porsche started galvanizing 911's in 1977,
and they tend to have many fewer problems with rust after that. It
would be worth checking if and when Porsche did that for the 914.
The 914 was discontinued after '76. Rust free 914's are definitely
almost non-existent.
Wish I'd had a better sense of that when I bought mine....
-Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I will keep my eyes open for rustless survivors here in Sunny CA.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Apollonio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 4:48 AM
Subject: Re: Rust free 914 doner?
On Nov 1, 2004, at 2:29 AM, David Dymaxion wrote:
I don't know 914's, but Porsche started galvanizing 911's in 1977,
and they tend to have many fewer problems with rust after that. It
would be worth checking if and when Porsche did that for the 914.
The 914 was discontinued after '76. Rust free 914's are definitely
almost non-existent.
Wish I'd had a better sense of that when I bought mine....
-Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Seth Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 6:29 PM
Subject: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)
> OK, here is the deal. I got in on this station car. A 1980 VW Rabbit.
> 72V 400+ amp Curtis series wound, K&W BC-20 charger. It is rough, and
> located in Southern NH. I bought it cheap. $500. Electro Automotive
> kit with a 4 speed, a 6.7" motor. Slow, but useable. E-meter. I never
> got to a point where I could use it as a station car. So I can store it
> over the winter, or sell it. I have balanced the batteries a bit. I
> also have a few DC-DC converters for it. It has invicta GLRs on 3
> wheels. I have a few more alloys for it. I might even have swaybars and
> snow tires for it. Steve Cicorcia sent me capacitors for PFC correction
> for the K&W but I haven't installed them.
>
> It is rough, it had a rear battery box fire, but has been repaired. It
> has abused floodies in it. I figure the couple of DC-DC converters
> makes it worth $700. You pick it up. No title. If you want it
> registered in NH, I can do that, but it becomes a hassle so the price
> goes to $1000. A NH registration might come with a title, I dunno.
>
> Many thanks to Bob Rice who delivered it to me. Unfortunately when I
> quit Solectria I no longer was at a place where a station car made
> sense, so it is your gain.
>
> A warning: if I get a bunch of people who want it, it is $700 or best
> offer, as in highest offer. Remeber, it is rough, but I figure a
> controller, transaxle and charger are worth that. You could buy the
> clean 1992 VW jetta in the yard too (my parents' old car), and have a
> great clean car to swap it all into. A 144V system would be nice, too.
>
> Seth Allen
>
Hi Seth an' All;
I have a battered,white,4door, bent front strut 88 Jetta that I'd be
happy to GIVE to anybody that wants to transplant the Rabbit stuff into.
Body is sound, no holes, a bit mouldy inside, but would clean up. I had it
running once as a gasser, but I don't think it is streetable as is..yur
call? Needs the basic Jetta/ Rabbit fixin's @#$%^ Door handles are busted,
cracked taillite lenses, missing front grill. Who cares? You were gunna '
glas over it anyhow. I Just have too damn many projects for now.
It is in south central CT, Killingworth, hasz a title, all that crap.
Hate to send it to the scrapyard.
Seeya]
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rod,
How is your BLDC control coming along? I would happily trade one or two
motors and controls to anyone that can supply me with a 25V 100A control
for my moped. Seriously though, what is one worth to you? Is $100
unreasonable? I'll have to look up the part number again.
Keith
Rod Hower said:
> Keith,
> I have the programmer, but can't part with it since
> the TEVan also uses the same one!
> I may be interested in the the motors.
> Seth has an Autocad drawing for a coupler that will
> fit the splines of this motor. He sent one to me
> which I used on my Dyno setup at work. We
> convienently had aluminum end bells that fit this
> motor that required a few holes drilled.
> I pressed a bearing on the coupler that Seth sent and
> was running in no time.
> I might also be interested in a control. Most of the
> junk I have sitting around is 1st generation before
> the bugs were worked out.
> Thanks,
> Rod
> --- Keith Richtman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> jerry dycus said:
>> > Any good, reasonable costs, sep-ex motors,
>> > controllers about 72vdc out their that would work
>> for
>> > a 1200 lb ev direct drive?
>>
>> If you can find someone with a GE programmer, I have
>> a couple of 350A 72V
>> sep-ex controls I would sell cheap. I also have the
>> GE motors to match,
>> but they are GEM NEV motors, so no front bearing.
>> Curtis also makes
>> sep-ex controllers.
>>
>> Keith
>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The list sent me this with attachment joke.cpl. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: Ev mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Bassoon
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: Hello
:)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A Los Angeles Production Company is looking for anyone with a turn of the
(last) century auto, Model T or A would be awesome.
Need it to be an electric conversion or maybe even a Detroit Electric.
Please let me know off line if you know of any one who has or would be
willing to rent this type of vehicle.
It will only to be used on a theater stage as a prop, but running is
necessary, range is not important, only needs to drive on and off a stage..
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry, should have been private...
Keith
Keith Richtman said:
> Rod,
>
> How is your BLDC control coming along? I would happily trade one or two
> motors and controls to anyone that can supply me with a 25V 100A control
> for my moped. Seriously though, what is one worth to you? Is $100
> unreasonable? I'll have to look up the part number again.
>
> Keith
>
> Rod Hower said:
>> Keith,
>> I have the programmer, but can't part with it since
>> the TEVan also uses the same one!
>> I may be interested in the the motors.
>> Seth has an Autocad drawing for a coupler that will
>> fit the splines of this motor. He sent one to me
>> which I used on my Dyno setup at work. We
>> convienently had aluminum end bells that fit this
>> motor that required a few holes drilled.
>> I pressed a bearing on the coupler that Seth sent and
>> was running in no time.
>> I might also be interested in a control. Most of the
>> junk I have sitting around is 1st generation before
>> the bugs were worked out.
>> Thanks,
>> Rod
>> --- Keith Richtman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>>> jerry dycus said:
>>> > Any good, reasonable costs, sep-ex motors,
>>> > controllers about 72vdc out their that would work
>>> for
>>> > a 1200 lb ev direct drive?
>>>
>>> If you can find someone with a GE programmer, I have
>>> a couple of 350A 72V
>>> sep-ex controls I would sell cheap. I also have the
>>> GE motors to match,
>>> but they are GEM NEV motors, so no front bearing.
>>> Curtis also makes
>>> sep-ex controllers.
>>>
>>> Keith
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nope! No need for them back, as they now belong to Seth :-). If the new
owner finds out that more of these caps would help PFC, I can be talked
out of a few more...
- Steven Ciciora
> Oh yeah, Steve may want the caps back, seeing as I never used them.
>
> Seth
> On Oct 31, 2004, at 6:29 PM, Seth Allen wrote:
>
>> OK, here is the deal. I got in on this station car. A 1980 VW Rabbit.
>> 72V 400+ amp Curtis series wound, K&W BC-20 charger. It is rough, and
>> located in Southern NH. I bought it cheap. $500. Electro Automotive
>> kit with a 4 speed, a 6.7" motor. Slow, but useable. E-meter. I never
>> got to a point where I could use it as a station car. So I can store
>> it over the winter, or sell it. I have balanced the batteries a bit. I
>> also have a few DC-DC converters for it. It has invicta GLRs on 3
>> wheels. I have a few more alloys for it. I might even have swaybars
>> and snow tires for it. Steve Cicorcia sent me capacitors for PFC
>> correction for the K&W but I haven't installed them.
>>
>> It is rough, it had a rear battery box fire, but has been repaired. It
>> has abused floodies in it. I figure the couple of DC-DC converters
>> makes it worth $700. You pick it up. No title. If you want it
>> registered in NH, I can do that, but it becomes a hassle so the price
>> goes to $1000. A NH registration might come with a title, I dunno.
>>
>> Many thanks to Bob Rice who delivered it to me. Unfortunately when I
>> quit Solectria I no longer was at a place where a station car made
>> sense, so it is your gain.
>>
>> A warning: if I get a bunch of people who want it, it is $700 or best
>> offer, as in highest offer. Remeber, it is rough, but I figure a
>> controller, transaxle and charger are worth that. You could buy the
>> clean 1992 VW jetta in the yard too (my parents' old car), and have a
>> great clean car to swap it all into. A 144V system would be nice, too.
>>
>> Seth Allen
>>
>
--- End Message ---
