EV Digest 3892
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Fw: Hello The list sent me an attachment.
by Jim Walls <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Bad battery in the D
by Michael Hoskinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Glueing Permanent Magnets Back In
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)
by Tim Clevenger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Clutchless
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Zinc Air battery bus
by "Brown, Jay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) What is the service life of transmission and differential fluids?
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) SAFT STM5-180MR still an active product
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Fw: Hello The list sent me an attachment.
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) What is the best way to take the transmission out of a pickup truck?
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Stm 180 nicad charging
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Local students make EV
by "Mark Thomasson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Glueing Permanent Magnets Back In
by richard ball <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Motorcycle transmissions
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Motorcycle transmissions
by richard ball <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Are mechanical and body parts for the '80 Subaru microvans still
available?
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: SAFT STM5-180MR still an active product
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Help! Fave brands/combin. of vac. pumps/switches?
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Dump Charging "Profiles" !
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Local students make EV
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: What is the service life of transmission and differential fluids?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) RE: What is the best way to take the transmission out of a pickup truck?
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In (Joe S)
by "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In (Ray K)
by "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) 4 ETEK Motor(s) Info
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Bad battery in the D
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In (Joe S)
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: SAFT STM5-180MR still an active product
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Are mechanical and body parts for the '80 Subaru microvans still available?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
by "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Glueing Magnets Back In (Ray K)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
The list sent me this with attachment joke.cpl. Lawrence Rhodes.....
More like it was a spoofed from address. Most of the E-Mail spread
viruses spoof the return address.
--
73
-------------------------------------
Jim Walls - K6CCC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ofc: 818-548-4804
http://home.earthlink.net/~k6ccc
AMSAT Member 32537 - WSWSS Member 395
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
everybody. After a year and a half on my 96 volt pack of US 250HC, one
of them went bad yeaterday. I have always found this pack marginal for
my most demanding run - 29 miles out to the cottage with wife, 2 big
dogs and various supplies. Saturday I had checked the voltages about
10 hours after a charge and found more than the usual spread. The
highest was 6.58 and the lowest (#14) was 6.40. So I started a 10.5
amp equalize cycle. The pack voltage stabilized at 128.5, and 2 hours
later had dropped by 1 volt so I quit then. After the first hour #14
was 7.72, #16 was 8.27. None of the batteries got significantly warm
at this rate - they were at room temperature when I started. I used 10
amps because this is more or less what US Battery recommends; it is
higher than what one would use for Trojans.
Next morning we took the car on a 3.8 KWh errand. I plugged in the
PFC50 at full amps (72 amps or so) so I could make the long run to the
cottage a little later. When I unplugged an hour and a half later, the
pack voltage was at 122 and it was drawing 10 amps. Off we went, just
me and the dogs. I was able to take it easy because there wasn't much
traffic. Nevertheless, the pack was somewhat flat about 3/4 of the way
there: I was able to draw only about 120 amps while keeping the pack
voltage at 84.
When I got to the cottage, the pack voltage did not rebound above 96
right away like it usually does, only to 94.5-95. I thought that it
would be a good idea to check voltages before plugging in the charger.
Much to my horror, #14 was only 4.8 volts! The lowest of the others was
6.09; the highest 6.20. By the time I got back to #14 it had risen to
5.09. I quickly checked temperatures with my IR thermometer. The
negative end of #14 was 70C! The positive end was 42C. Most of the
other batteries were in the high 30's. I took the caps off #14; the
most negative cell was steaming. Ow! What have I done? Fluid levels
were down, but not much more in that cell than in others (I had planned
to water it up today anyway). I plugged in the charger and cautiously
applied a few amps. The voltage of #14 quickly rose above 6. So I
charged slowly for a while, watching temperatures. The hot cell
continued to cool, even as I raised the amps to 50. I charged about
half then turned it off for a couple of hours while I used the charger
on the pickup, which had sat unused for about 3 weeks and whose
batteries were at 0C.
I'd like to learn from my mistakes, if I knew what my mistakes were.
Did I not equalize enough? Have I been undercharging by zapping the
pack with 70 amps with a 1 1/2 to 2 hour taper? (That is my usual
charge pattern, but every 4 or 5 cycles I charge at 15 amps overnight).
I really should have a battery monitoring system of some sort to try to
avoid things getting out of hand again. The last time I approached the
list about charging, it became evident that I had been overcharging, so
I had turned down the acceptance voltage a couple of volts and turned
the timer down a bit so it stopped when the amps were down below 6. Of
course when I charge at a high rate with the PFC-50, some of the time
at constant voltage is spent dropping down from 70amps to, say 15,
compared to charging at a starting amperage of 15 when the constant
voltage phase would start at 15amps and go down from there.
Meanwhile, I guess #14 is toast. I considered taking one of the
T-125's out of the pickup, but ended up putting a couple of cycles on
it to warm up the pack then driving it home. Perhaps I will try
individually charging #14 and keeping my runs short until I replace the
pack. I planned to park the Citroen for the winter anyway to keeep it
from the salt.
Sigh. With this car I need at least 200 amps when the pack is down 70%
and I'm just not getting it. Uphill both ways, just like Bob Rice
says. Most of my cycles are 30 to 50% DOD, but those runs to the
cottage are 70-80%.
Mike Hoskinson
Edmonton
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--- Begin Message ---
3:1 Devcon Titanium Putty --- $60/pound
Both JBWeld and Loctite Coldweld disintegrated on me when I made 1/2in.
diam. 14-point inside splines with them, while the titanium putty survived.
Spendy, but it's another option.
-MT
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Geez, another great deal on the east coast. Okay, folks, anybody got a
steal like this within 1,000 miles of the west coast? I've got an ICE as a
station car, and it sure could use a nonpolluting equivalent. I have a
shiny laptop to trade.
Thanks.
Tim
------
> From: "Seth Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 6:29 PM
> Subject: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)
>
>
> > OK, here is the deal. I got in on this station car. A 1980 VW Rabbit.
> > 72V 400+ amp Curtis series wound, K&W BC-20 charger. It is rough, and
> > located in Southern NH. I bought it cheap. $500. Electro Automotive
> > kit with a 4 speed, a 6.7" motor. Slow, but useable. E-meter. I never
> > got to a point where I could use it as a station car. So I can store it
> > over the winter, or sell it. I have balanced the batteries a bit. I
> > also have a few DC-DC converters for it. It has invicta GLRs on 3
> > wheels. I have a few more alloys for it. I might even have swaybars and
> > snow tires for it. Steve Cicorcia sent me capacitors for PFC correction
> > for the K&W but I haven't installed them.
> >
> > It is rough, it had a rear battery box fire, but has been repaired. It
> > has abused floodies in it. I figure the couple of DC-DC converters
> > makes it worth $700. You pick it up. No title. If you want it
> > registered in NH, I can do that, but it becomes a hassle so the price
> > goes to $1000. A NH registration might come with a title, I dunno.
> >
> > Many thanks to Bob Rice who delivered it to me. Unfortunately when I
> > quit Solectria I no longer was at a place where a station car made
> > sense, so it is your gain.
> >
> > A warning: if I get a bunch of people who want it, it is $700 or best
> > offer, as in highest offer. Remeber, it is rough, but I figure a
> > controller, transaxle and charger are worth that. You could buy the
> > clean 1992 VW jetta in the yard too (my parents' old car), and have a
> > great clean car to swap it all into. A 144V system would be nice, too.
> >
> > Seth Allen
> >
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now.
http://messenger.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd like to know if anyone know enough about an
automatic trans to tell me how hard it would be to use
the auomatic without the torque converter. I have
decided to convert my big 1 ton work truck as well as
my monter beemer to a grid series hybrids. both of
these vehicles have a C6 auto trans. and I will need
the three speed to drive them. I have hills and
highways to contend with. I have some time to work
things out as I'm going to finish my electric sunbeam
first.
Gadget
--- David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You may not need to be that fancy. If you have the
> motor's rpm you
> can do a simple algorithm:
>
> If near max rpm, drop to 2/3 this rpm for the
> next gear up (2/3
> or whatever the ratio that car has.
>
> If low rpm, increase rpm by 1.5 (or whatever
> that car's ratio is)
>
> To improve this you could also take into account the
> car's speed.
> Next step in complexity would be to put sensors on
> the shift to see
> what thet intended gear is.
>
> --- brian baumel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > I am also considering a clutchless system,
> actually a clutchless
> > and shiftless type of system. a micro controller
> and gear boxes
> > would take care of the shifting and RPM matching,
> but the question
> > is, how does the uC know what RPM to match? I can
> easily put an
> > encoder on the flywheel, but what internal gear
> should I be
> > tracking....and how? I plan on keeping the clutch
> in there for the
> > "mechanical fuse" advantage...
> >
> > Brian B.
> >
> > Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > >> I am considering the same but I also like
> > >> the "mechanical fuse" aspect the clutch adds.
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> > >If you can search the archives, Bill Dube
> (sometimes spelled Bill
> > Dube')
> > >had some good comments about the huge shock to
> the transmission
> > when you
> > >hit a pothole.
> >
> > good point
> >
> > >As for me, I'm going clutchless, but hopefully
> not shiftless. My
> > AC motor
> > >can spin almost 10K rpm, and the thought of
> spinning a massive
> > clutch
> > >plate that fast scares me. The balance shop would
> not touch it
> > after I
> > >told him how fast it might go. And I was worried
> that the slighest
> > >imbalance would bend the motor shaft.
> >
> > >What I ended up doing is machining an adaptor out
> of 7075 aluminum
> > that
> > >holds the inner portion of the clutch. It still
> has the springs
> > between
> > >the two parts of the clutch to help take up some
> of the shock, and
> > a tiny
> > >amount of misalignment. As for shifting, since my
> controler
> > supports
> > >regen, I believe I can make an embedded
> controller that will
> > measure the
> > >motor speed and the speed of the gears I will
> shift to, and
> > quickly match
> > >the RPMs for easier shifting.
> >
> > Awsome, My first idea was to use PM motors and a
> lot of shifting
> > and was thinking of the same type of shift
> control.
> >
> > >I probably didn't need my home made adaptor
> balanced because they
> > only
> > >drilled two little holes (I'm sure just to make
> me feel like I got
> > >something for my money!).
> >
> > >"What?!? you charged me $40 just to drill those
> two tiny little
> > holes???"
> > > "No, I charged you one dollar to drill those
> holes. I charged you
> > $39 to
> > >figure out where to put those holes!" :-)
> >
> > Here is how we balance grinding wheels
> > 1. we have a pair of level parallel bars
> > 2. we put wheel on shaft and let the heavy part
> find the low spot,
> > and mark it
> > 3. for the wheels there are weights onthe hub we
> can move, but on
> > the flywheel I would drill the hole a tad then
> re-mount
> > 4. place back on level at same location and rotate
> it 90 degrees
> > either way
> > if it is balanced, it stays there, otherwise it
> falls back to the
> > same heavy point
> > (I used to wonder if it would ever find a new
> spot, but it never
> > did)
> > repeat until done
> > this is done on the grinding wheels or the
> oscilations cause
> > ripples in the surface, I think it would work for
> flywheels
> > perfectly.
> >
> >
> > I will be giving it a try sooner or later. :-)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >>
> > - Steven Ciciora
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We
> finish.
>
>
> =====
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://biz.yahoo.com/bw/041101/15982_1.html
Thought this might interest the list.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Brown
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--- Begin Message ---
I have noticed increased mechanical noise from the transmission in my
S-10 lately. The transmission has also become harder to upshift while
moving. I started thinking about the last time I changed the
transmission fluid. I checked my records and as near as I can tell, I
put Redline D4 ATF in the Borg Warner T5 manual transmission and light
weight gear oil in the differential in the spring of '99. I have put
about 40k miles on the truck since I put the new ATF in the transmission.
How long should I expect these lubricants to last? Have I worn them out?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
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--- Begin Message ---
I read Rod's comment about the SAFT STM5-180MR batteries being
discontinued. I was worried since I have 5 years coming up of the
expected 10 year life for mine. I sent Lou Magnarella at SAFT America
mail asking about the status of these batteries. He says not to worry.
The batteries are still in production with no plans to eliminate them.
Delivery time is 12 t0o 14 weeks give or take depending on customs. He
also says that they can be refurbished, as a last resort.
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 1 Nov 2004 at 6:08, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> The list sent me this with attachment joke.cpl
By design, the EV listserver does not transmit attachments.
List subscribers may from time to time receive malicious messages or
attachments from infected computers. The "from" field will be "spoofed" with
various random addresses. The fact that a message claims to be from the
EV listserver does not mean that it really is.
If you're concerned about such a message, please don't post comments to
the EV list. Instead, email me about it privately (offlist). You MUST include
the full headers from the malicious message so that I can analyze it. If you
don't know how to reveal full headers, you'll find instructions for doing so in
several email programs on this page:
http://help.prodigy.net/help/email/spam/faqs.html
Thanks.
David
Assistant EV List Administrator
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Clutchnet clutch in my S-10 has been chattering for some time now.
I suspect that it got over reved at the brake shop or the suspension
shop a couple of years ago or possibly there is a transmission fluid
leak. In any case, the last times I have had the transmission out, I
lifted it and the motor out through the engine bay as a unit using an
engine lift. To do the clutch replacement, I only want to remove the
transmission from below the truck. I don't have a hydraulic floor lift
so I need to figure out how to do this with the truck in my garage
sitting on its tires.
Should I get 4 ramps to run the truck up on?
What is the best way to support the weight of the transmission and still
be able to maneuver it to the motor adapter plate without killing
myself? I was thinking that one of the hydraulic ATV stands might work?
I also have seen hydraulic floor jacks with saddles built to hold a
transmission. How easy are these to use?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
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--- Begin Message ---
I am using a PFC50 charger with my 24 STM5-180MR batteries. I think
that the best way to commission them is one at a time. Joe Smalley did
the work for me. Part of the project was to test them all, since they
were used. This way, out of 30, I was able to pick the most closely
matched 24.
I only use the PFC50 for bulk charging. I then switch to a Zivan K2
that knows IUIa. It isn't ideal as the Zivan has a timer for the last
'I' phase of the charge. It is set to 3 hours now with a finish current
of 4.4 amps. This gives an overcharge of about 12.2 or so ah on
average. since I use about 50 to 60ah a day most of the time, it works
out perfect. I leave the PFC50 voltage limit set to 192vdc. The zivan
has a temperature probe so it changes the switch over voltage with
temperature. I have the probe in what I suspect is the hottest box in
the battery string.
This setup works well for me. There is only room in my S-10 for the
Zivan. The PFC50 sits on the bench in my garage. I connect it up when
between trips when I need to go more than 45 miles in a day. Portland
Oregon doesn't have much in the way of charging infrastructure so I
don't charge away from home.
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
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--- Begin Message ---
Seabrook Intermediate Solar Work Shines on Tour
League City, TEXAS-Seabrook Intermediate School recently participated in the
Houston Renewable Energy Tour 2004. The school's display featured a solar
cart designed and created by students in the school's Science Magnet Program
Future Think class, as well as the solar panels the school is implementing
through the assistance of a grant from the Texas State Energy Program and
Green Mountain Energy.
The tour allowed Houstonians the opportunity to see first hand the
implementation of solar energy in an urban society. Houston has long been an
energy leader, and the tour show cased the pioneering efforts to incorporate
solar and other forms of renewable energy into homes, commercial buildings
and everyday life.
For more information about the Seabrook Intermediate School Science Magnet
Program call the District's Office of Public Information at (281) 338-5817.
See photo: http://www.wiredin.cc/admin/headlines/startpage.htm
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--- Begin Message ---
i've used devcon product for all sorts
superb stuff !!
--- Myles Twete <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 3:1 Devcon Titanium Putty --- $60/pound
> Both JBWeld and Loctite Coldweld disintegrated on me
> when I made 1/2in.
> diam. 14-point inside splines with them, while the
> titanium putty survived.
> Spendy, but it's another option.
>
> -MT
>
>
=====
Regards
Richard
___________________________________________________________ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger -
all new features - even more fun! http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a five speed on the bike, I think if I had used
a k100 instead of the k75, I would have been better
off. I believe the k100 has a final trans ratio of 1
to 1. the rear gear ratio on the bike is 3.73 to 1 but
the k75 trans has a top gear that is about 65%
reduction so the final ratio is about 5.75 to one. I
could quite easily change the controller and double
the voltage to get the top end I want or change to a k
100 trans. I'm looking into the possibility of maybe
getting a different gear set for 5th ratio of 1 to 1
like the k 100. in any case it seems that everything
has the same solution.... just throw more money at it!
Gadget
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Rev. could you please outline the speed and shifting
> pattern with the K
> series. Is it a 4 or 5 speed box? Is the top gear
> too high/or low? It
> looks so good too bad you have ratio problems.
> Aught to be able to cruise
> easily at 70 given the right ratio. Lawrence
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
i have a k100 special still with the gas engine
my gearing wasn't quite right when i built it and after a bit of research it was
eaisier to fit a bigger rear wheel rather than change the gearing
just a thought
Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I have a five speed on the bike, I think if I had used
a k100 instead of the k75, I would have been better
off. I believe the k100 has a final trans ratio of 1
to 1. the rear gear ratio on the bike is 3.73 to 1 but
the k75 trans has a top gear that is about 65%
reduction so the final ratio is about 5.75 to one. I
could quite easily change the controller and double
the voltage to get the top end I want or change to a k
100 trans. I'm looking into the possibility of maybe
getting a different gear set for 5th ratio of 1 to 1
like the k 100. in any case it seems that everything
has the same solution.... just throw more money at it!
Gadget
--- Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> Rev. could you please outline the speed and shifting
> pattern with the K
> series. Is it a 4 or 5 speed box? Is the top gear
> too high/or low? It
> looks so good too bad you have ratio problems.
> Aught to be able to cruise
> easily at 70 given the right ratio. Lawrence
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
Regards
Richard
---------------------------------
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have been eying the Jet Electravan for sale on the tradin' post. This
one seems to have DOT mods, most notably monster bumpers. Since a very
small number of these little Subaru 600 microvans were imported to the
USA, I would suppopse that replacement mechanical and body parts are in
very short supply here.
The question is more for the European and Pacific rim members of the
list. Were this Subaru 600 vans poplular in other parts of the world?
Are parts still available? For the state side folks, does any one know
if the parts for other mass imported Subarus are interchangeable with
the van parts? I wouldn't want to purchase the van, only to find out
that I can't get brake drums and shoes, etc.
I sent mail to Subaru America, but they referred me to my local Subaru
dealers for parts information.
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
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--- Begin Message ---
Paul,
I didn't actually get my info from Lou, I relied on
word of mouth from 2 different people.
Are your batteries the same as those in my TEVan
(STM-180, I'm not sure what the other letters are in
your PN unless I've left them off of mine).
How much did you pay for your batteries? Where they
new? How much does saft want for new ones?
How much to recondition a used battery?
Can they do it in Georgia or do they ship them back to
France?
Thanks,
Rod
--- Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I read Rod's comment about the SAFT STM5-180MR
> batteries being
> discontinued. I was worried since I have 5 years
> coming up of the
> expected 10 year life for mine. I sent Lou
> Magnarella at SAFT America
> mail asking about the status of these batteries. He
> says not to worry.
> The batteries are still in production with no plans
> to eliminate them.
> Delivery time is 12 t0o 14 weeks give or take
> depending on customs. He
> also says that they can be refurbished, as a last
> resort.
>
> Paul Wallace
> '91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
I believe the Prius(s) use electric vacuume pumps.
I haven't checked them out, so I don't know what they cost.
But I would assume that they must be very quiet.
L8r
Ryan
PS. I use a noisy Thomas to supplament ICE vacuume in Idle-Stop
on my Insight for extended coast times durring traffic jams.
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--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
<>If Rich would sell just power stages with separate voltage and
current limit
control inputs (nothing else) that would be it.
If he did, it would most likely not be any cheaper. What you describe
above is the "hard part" of the entire charger! And the vast majority of
the hardware cost. I bet it represents 90% of the hardware cost, and at
least 90% of the development effort. Thinking about it, most likely more.
I'm not asking for it to be much cheaper. It certainly will be cheaper
since there are
no analog boards in it, but the price difference will be minor.
I know, but preferrably isolated.
I seem to remember when Rich started the design of his charger, he asked
the group how important different features were.
He asked wrong group. I meann he asked people on EVDL group which is
ready to plunk
the money NOW and what do we want for that money, and he built it.
Naturally, most of the customers are on EVDL and do not represent
"average". So, in terms of money, he sure *did* ask right group. Right Rich?
Victor
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--- Begin Message ---
I just read a book called "Electric Dreams" about a group of students in
North Carolina who built an EV and won some regional and national
competitions. I think Mike Brown might have had a small involvement, too.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Thomasson
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 3:58 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Local students make EV
Seabrook Intermediate Solar Work Shines on Tour
League City, TEXAS-Seabrook Intermediate School recently participated in the
Houston Renewable Energy Tour 2004. The school's display featured a solar
cart designed and created by students in the school's Science Magnet Program
Future Think class, as well as the solar panels the school is implementing
through the assistance of a grant from the Texas State Energy Program and
Green Mountain Energy.
The tour allowed Houstonians the opportunity to see first hand the
implementation of solar energy in an urban society. Houston has long been an
energy leader, and the tour show cased the pioneering efforts to incorporate
solar and other forms of renewable energy into homes, commercial buildings
and everyday life.
For more information about the Seabrook Intermediate School Science Magnet
Program call the District's Office of Public Information at (281) 338-5817.
See photo: http://www.wiredin.cc/admin/headlines/startpage.htm
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40,000 miles seems a little premature for a premium synthetic ATF to break
down in a manual transmission. I have a Ford Taurus SHO with a manual 5 speed
that has 75,000 miles on Amsoil Synthetic ATF in the transmission (note that
ATF is spec'd for this vehicle). This vehicle has a total 140K miles
(synthetic lubricants all round) on it with no mechanical noises like you describe.
My scheduled maint. calls for crank case oil changes every 12K miles (since I
bought the car with 22,000 miles on it in early 1994) and transmission fluid
changes every 100K as it should not get as dirty (little to no exposure to
air or combustion by products) and the trans temp should be a bit less than the
crank case temps.
Mike Bachand
DEVC Member
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What I have done before is the following:
- remove the from U joint, drop the drive shaft
- unbolt the trans from the engine (it is still on the engine spline)
- use a floor jack with a wooden cradle (12x12 plywood with a couple of 2x2
screwed on either end), put it under the transmission
- slide the trans back
- drop the floor jack down
I did not put the vehicle up on stands, as this was a truck with enough
ground clearance to slide the trans out from underneath.
good luck.
Don
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
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From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Paul Wallace
Sent: November 1, 2004 12:51 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: What is the best way to take the transmission out of a pickup
truck?
The Clutchnet clutch in my S-10 has been chattering for some time now.
I suspect that it got over reved at the brake shop or the suspension shop a
couple of years ago or possibly there is a transmission fluid leak. In any
case, the last times I have had the transmission out, I lifted it and the
motor out through the engine bay as a unit using an engine lift. To do the
clutch replacement, I only want to remove the transmission from below the
truck. I don't have a hydraulic floor lift so I need to figure out how to
do this with the truck in my garage sitting on its tires.
Should I get 4 ramps to run the truck up on?
What is the best way to support the weight of the transmission and still be
able to maneuver it to the motor adapter plate without killing myself? I
was thinking that one of the hydraulic ATV stands might work?
I also have seen hydraulic floor jacks with saddles built to hold a
transmission. How easy are these to use?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
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From: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi Joe,
Thanks for the info. It sounds like not such a big deal after all. Wish me
luck with figuring out magnet orientation. I haven't found my compass yet,
so I don't know how that plan is going to pan out.
TTYL!
Regards,
Rick
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From: "Raymond Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> But even going back a few years ago. The manufactures we discussed this
> with, told us they did repairs be removing all the magnets and starting
over
> again. That they couldn't do just one. I will phone Scott Motors this week
> and see if anything has changed.
Hi Raymond, I tend to think that this may be good advice. For the simple
fact that I, the end user and customer in this case, am on a DYI basis, I'll
test this out. I'll let The List know when and if anything comes unglued.
Another consideration beyond the likely failure of the other magnets with
the same unknown adhesive may be an issue of thickness of adhesive and the
spacing between barrel and armature. That would seem to affect field
strength ~big time~ IMHO. You are likely busy enough already, so you
wouldn't have to call Scott Motors on my account. It might be good knowledge
for yourself and the shop though.
> If you guys want I can also contact Dick from Vensel Enterprises and see
if
> he still carries the proper epoxy for doing the repair.
Again, if it is something that would be handy for your day to day operation,
but otherwise I'm going to try JB Weld. It's available here and very
quickly, no hassles for anyone. Dick is probably busy enough already without
having to hand feed some esoteric fixing his own motor.
Thanks for already taking time out to share info and respond Raymond. It is
greatly appreciated!!!
Regards,
Rick
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With all this E-TEK talk I thought It might be a good time to ask
if anyone knows of a good controller to run 4 e-tek motors with?
I'll skip going in-depth regarding a contactor controller that
I would like to "play" with. Four Motors gives me three motor
configurations, 4Parallel, 4Series, and 2P+Series+2P...
Two motors per rear wheel with a single reduction gear ratio.
... So I'm thinking about skipping the contactor controller, for
the moment, starting out with a real PWM controller with regen.
I like the sound of the 4Quad Alltrax with regen.
http://www.alltraxinc.com/old/prod09.htm
The largest one is the AXE-7245 for 72Volts By 450Amps.
So I think I would want two of them, one per pair of motors.
In Parallel mode I could push all 450Amps into them without
concern, in Series mode I could go all the way up to 72Volts.
Alternately I could use a single controller with limits of:
Mode 1 - Series - - 192v @ 400Amps
Mode 2 - Para-Ser - 96v @ 800Amps
Mode 3 - Parallel - 48v @ 1600Amps (400A per motor)
I'd like to keep the battery voltage low at arround 72v to 96v.
So how would a Zilla 1K run 4 E-Teks at 96v? using Modes 2 & 3.
Mode 3 would electrically lock the rear wheel rpms, where as
Mode 2 will allow each wheel to rotate at different speeds for
better cornering. Does the Zilla do regen? Will it drive E-Teks?
Untill I can install advanced batteries I only expect to get
5-15 miles of range with minimal PbA. Till then I'm looking
for maximum "performance", accelleration, and Grin-ability.
L8r
Ryan
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Is it possible that battery had a loose negative terminal? If it did, you
are lucky it did not melt and leave you stranded. The heat may have wicked
down the terminal post to heat up the water.
If you water the battery and retest it for capacity, and the capacity is
back, then this may have been the cause.
I would give it a 10% chance that happened. I would give it a 90% chance
that you reversed it and the capacity went down due to this event.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Hoskinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 9:07 AM
Subject: Bad battery in the D
> I quickly checked temperatures with my IR thermometer. The
> negative end of #14 was 70C! The positive end was 42C. Most of the
> other batteries were in the high 30's. I took the caps off #14; the
> most negative cell was steaming. Ow! What have I done?
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You don't need a compass.
Assuming you have a two pole pair motor (four brushes), stack the magnets so
they stick together like this (()). The two on the left go on the top and
bottom of the case as you look down into the barrel. The ones on the right
go on the left and right of the case. If you get it backwards, then you will
need to switch the brush leads to get the motor to run the right direction.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: Glueing Magnets Back In (Joe S)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Hi Joe,
>
> Thanks for the info. It sounds like not such a big deal after all. Wish me
> luck with figuring out magnet orientation. I haven't found my compass yet,
> so I don't know how that plan is going to pan out.
>
> TTYL!
> Regards,
> Rick
>
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Paul;
Are you still charging your NiCd batteries with a PFC-50?
On 30 October, Bill Brinsmead was looking for someone with experience.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Wallace" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 12:30 PM
Subject: SAFT STM5-180MR still an active product
> I read Rod's comment about the SAFT STM5-180MR batteries being
> discontinued. I was worried since I have 5 years coming up of the
> expected 10 year life for mine. I sent Lou Magnarella at SAFT America
> mail asking about the status of these batteries. He says not to worry.
> The batteries are still in production with no plans to eliminate them.
> Delivery time is 12 t0o 14 weeks give or take depending on customs. He
> also says that they can be refurbished, as a last resort.
>
> Paul Wallace
> '91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
>
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On 1 Nov 2004 at 12:58, Paul Wallace wrote:
> Were this Subaru 600 vans poplular in other parts of the world?
Not sure about that specific model, but that ^type^ of vehicle is ubiquitous
all over Asia. Current models of the genre are still manufactured by
Daihatsu in Japan and by (probably) Kia and others in South Korea.
http://www.luch.co.kr/towner.htm
I notice that the Towner is not listed on Kia's international website, but
I'm pretty sure it's still sold in Korea.
BTW, I ran across this rather interesting concept car there:
http://kiamotors.com/Common/html/innovation/conceptcar/kev4.html
It's a concept EV with an 800cc APU - a TRUE hybrid! Sure would be nice if
they'd put it into production.
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I just picked , what I beliave was one of Mike Brown's rabbit conversion
kits , with the Rabbit tranny . So I'm looking for cars to put it in .
Sounds like the adptor will fit a few different cars :-) what cars should I
be looking for that will take this fine kit . I'd also add here after
seeing one , that these kits are very well done , and can see where using
one would make the job a lot easyer.
>
> I have a battered,white,4door, bent front strut 88 Jetta that I'd be
> happy to GIVE to anybody that wants to transplant the Rabbit stuff into.
> Body is sound, no holes, a bit mouldy inside, but would clean up. I had it
> running once as a gasser, but I don't think it is streetable as is..yur
> call? Needs the basic Jetta/ Rabbit fixin's @#$%^ Door handles are busted,
> cracked taillite lenses, missing front grill. Who cares? You were gunna '
> glas over it anyhow. I Just have too damn many projects for now.
>
> It is in south central CT, Killingworth, hasz a title, all that crap.
>
> Hate to send it to the scrapyard.
>
> Seeya]
>
> Bob
>
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Rick wrote:
> Another consideration beyond the likely failure of the other magnets
> with the same unknown adhesive may be an issue of thickness of
> adhesive and the spacing between barrel and armature. That would
> seem to affect field strength ~big time~ IMHO.
If you're building or fixing a low-performance motor, the air gap will
be large and the magnet placement not all that critical. The higher the
intended efficiency of the motor, the more critical it will become.
The size of the air gap between the magnet and outside shell isn't that
critical, because the bigger it is, the smaller the gap to the armature.
The sum of the two is always the same, so you'll have the same
reluctance, and same field strength. However, getting the magnet too
close to the armature will cause trouble. Besides the obvious problems
of hitting it, being too close will increase magnetic losses in the
armature by making the flux change more abruptly as it moves from air to
magnet or vice versa.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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