EV Digest 3894
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re:
by "Rmanzan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Hi
by "Rmanzan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Hello
by "Rmanzan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Production Company looking for turn of the century (type)
electri c car
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Weird DC power supplies/chargers - For sale!
by "Jeff Dobereiner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: 4 ETEK Motor(s) Info
by richard ball <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Help! BSUEV suddenly stoped working!
by Jon Glauser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: 4 ETEK Motor(s) Info
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Power steering motor (for 200sx)
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Power steering motor (for 200sx)
by "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: 4 ETEK Motor(s) Info
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) BLDC on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) Re: Thanks :)
by "Rmanzan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: power steering motor
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Motorcycle Range, speed, Re: Motorcycle transmissions
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: EV for sale $1000 or less in NH (rough!)Freebee!!
by "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Electric power steering article
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Bad battery in the D
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Source for 48v Soneil charger
by Gravity Girl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Source for 48v Soneil charger
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) RE: Source for 48v Soneil charger
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Zivan K2 trouble, any one have a spare? what has happened to Greg
McCrea and Gary Flo?
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Zivan K2 trouble, any one have a spare? what has happened to Greg McCrea and
Gary Flo?
by "EAA-contact" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: What is the service life of transmission and differential fluids?
reply to Pat
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: What is the best way to take the transmission out of a pickup
truck? reply to Lawrence
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Source for 48v Soneil charger
by Gravity Girl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Source for 48v Soneil charger
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Help! BSUEV suddenly stoped working!
by Jon Glauser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Zivan K2 trouble, any one have a spare? what has happened to Greg McCrea and
Gary Flo?
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Zivan K2 trouble, any one have a spare? what has happened to Greg McCrea and
Gary Flo?
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Might have them check with the Petersen (as in magazine) Auto Museum in LA.
I believe they may have one.
Richard
on 11/1/04 8:11, Reinhard, Rick rick.reinhard-at-nissan-usa.com
|vehicle/1.0-Allow| at ... wrote:
> A Los Angeles Production Company is looking for anyone with a turn of the
> (last) century auto, Model T or A would be awesome.
> Need it to be an electric conversion or maybe even a Detroit Electric.
> Please let me know off line if you know of any one who has or would be
> willing to rent this type of vehicle.
> It will only to be used on a theater stage as a prop, but running is
> necessary, range is not important, only needs to drive on and off a stage..
>
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Hey,
A few months ago I bought two weird Japanese DC charger/power supplies. They're
pretty nifty, but I really don't need them. If anyone wants to purchase them, let me
know.
One is a complex looking variable power supply, adjustable with knobs from 0-102 VDC
(says my multimeter). Has volt and ammeters on it, some other switches, etc. etc.
The other is a very simple black box, pumps out a steady 107 VDC, nothing adjustable,
also has an ammeter.
Selling the pair for 150 + Shipping. Hope someone can find a use for them! I stole
the fuses out of them for other things, so those 2$ worth of parts are your problem!
-Jeff
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ive just ordered a 4QD 300A controller which is to drive my etek
the maker 4QD has loads of info on it's site and swears to me this will work well
cost was £ 260
i'll post the test results soon
others have said the alltrax axe works well also
Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
With all this E-TEK talk I thought It might be a good time to ask
if anyone knows of a good controller to run 4 e-tek motors with?
I'll skip going in-depth regarding a contactor controller that
I would like to "play" with. Four Motors gives me three motor
configurations, 4Parallel, 4Series, and 2P+Series+2P...
Two motors per rear wheel with a single reduction gear ratio.
... So I'm thinking about skipping the contactor controller, for
the moment, starting out with a real PWM controller with regen.
I like the sound of the 4Quad Alltrax with regen.
http://www.alltraxinc.com/old/prod09.htm
The largest one is the AXE-7245 for 72Volts By 450Amps.
So I think I would want two of them, one per pair of motors.
In Parallel mode I could push all 450Amps into them without
concern, in Series mode I could go all the way up to 72Volts.
Alternately I could use a single controller with limits of:
Mode 1 - Series - - 192v @ 400Amps
Mode 2 - Para-Ser - 96v @ 800Amps
Mode 3 - Parallel - 48v @ 1600Amps (400A per motor)
I'd like to keep the battery voltage low at arround 72v to 96v.
So how would a Zilla 1K run 4 E-Teks at 96v? using Modes 2 & 3.
Mode 3 would electrically lock the rear wheel rpms, where as
Mode 2 will allow each wheel to rotate at different speeds for
better cornering. Does the Zilla do regen? Will it drive E-Teks?
Untill I can install advanced batteries I only expect to get
5-15 miles of range with minimal PbA. Till then I'm looking
for maximum "performance", accelleration, and Grin-ability.
L8r
Ryan
Regards
Richard
---------------------------------
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
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Well, the story goes like this:
I didn't like the looks and mess under the hood, so I removed the
Kodiak controller and relay/fuse board from the car. Easy 1 hour job. I
cleaned it all up and put it back together in a little different
arrangement.
For the HV circuit, it goes like this:
| ammeter shunt
+-{- bat}--{fuse}--{tery +} -----[---]----[==]-+
| contactor |
| |
| ____________ |
| e-meter shunt [ kodiak ] |
+-----[==]-------[ -batt +batt]--+-------------+
+-[ -mot ] |
| [____________] |
| |
+--+ +-------+
___|______|___
[ ]
[ motor ]==
[______________]
After getting all the fuses back, everything worked like it should.
Except the e-meter. It reads voltage just fine, but the current meter
part just shows -509 weather the sense leads are on the shunt or not.
The other meter seems to be correct.
I took it for a short drive (~0.5mi) and just as I returned to the
garage, the controller cut out while under slight power. It wouldn't
spin the motor at all. We pushed it in and the controller is getting
full voltage, so no blown fuses, no bad contactor. I don't read any
voltage on the controllers output either.
also, there always seems to be a small spark when the HV circuit is
hooked up with the contactor open and the DC-DC disconnected. That means
the only loads on the HV are the charger and one half of the controller
(the + side is floating on the contactor) is that normal?
so, my questions are:
is the e-meter fried?
is the controller fried or is the motor damaged?
There are more, but these two are significant now..
thanks!
-Jon Glauser
http://jon.silvercheetah.net/bsuev/index.asp
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I like the sound of the 4Quad Alltrax with regen.
http://www.alltraxinc.com/old/prod09.htm
The largest one is the AXE-7245 for 72Volts By 450Amps.
There are known issues with the Alltrax AXE with the ETEK and regen at
higher voltages. Specifically, they can "runaway" or switch to full
power with no control input (throttle) accepted. If you want to run
ETEKs with the AXE at 72V with regen, be sure and talk at length to
Alltrax about it first. The regen seems to be the trigger. Alltrax will
give you the straight scoop as they are good, honorable folks.
Good luck!
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Megasite
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX - 801-749-7807
message - 866-872-8901
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Hi Steve and All,
I had kind of planned on bolting the ps pump on the front of the 9' motor
but Bob who I'm doing the nission conversion for want it to have its own
motor so it will run all the time .
That's what I decided too - I didn't want the air conditioning going
warm during those long stop lights. And intermittent power steering
didn't sound real great either.
Sure I say , then after a little fooling
with it find that it takes more power to turn than I had though. also all
the small motors I have make so much noise . wondering what others have
done .?
Steve Clunn
In the 200sx, I'm going with a 1.5 hp accessory motor. It's a pretty
solid little Pacific Scientific (found here:
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18&category=174). I'm a
little worried that I'm running it 24V over its rating, but hey, I'm
running the Prestolite 48V over its rating :) This small motor is rated
to spin at 4800rpm at the 120V, so I'm guessing about 6000rpm at 144V.
With the gears on it, the power steering and air conditioning will be
spinning at about 2500-3000rpm - a little higher than I would design for
if I could find a different motor for a decent price. I'm ticking down
the days before I can tell everyone how it actually runs. Talk is
getting cheap.
I presented my "preliminary" design review for the 200sx as my senior
engineering project. It went pretty well. For those that missed my
message last time about this, I have the thing in flash format (this
works for most people, sorry for those whose browsers choke on it) at
http://www.evsource.com/conversion/pdr_v1.swf
One last thing - anyone care to guess how my Z1K at 144V of Orbitals in
a 2900lb chassis is going to perform (i.e. 0-60, rubber burning, etc)?
These thoughts are healthy at this stage of the game to keep things
moving along.
-Ryan
--
- EV Source -
Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices
5% off all items in our Top-Line Shop from November to Christmas!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
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From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> In the 200sx, I'm going with a 1.5 hp accessory motor. It's a pretty
> solid little Pacific Scientific (found here:
> http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18&category=174).
This looks like one of the motors I pullen off a tread mill and was thinking
of using
I'm a
> little worried that I'm running it 24V over its rating, but hey, I'm
> running the Prestolite 48V over its rating :)
but the controller will be stand in between litimiting the current on the
car and it won't on the power steering ,
This small motor is rated
> to spin at 4800rpm at the 120V, so I'm guessing about 6000rpm at 144V.
I'll be a 156v , so I am thinking about a little pwm controller but for now
will use some resistors . I did some test ( used my drill to trun it ) to
see how much power the steering would use and was supprized and the load it
put on the drill, .
> With the gears on it, the power steering and air conditioning will be
> spinning at about 2500-3000rpm -
the tread mill had some pullys that will give a 3 to 1 raito for me ...
a little higher than I would design for
> if I could find a different motor for a decent price. I'm ticking down
> the days before I can tell everyone how it actually runs.
me to ..
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to damon: You are probably right...
This is the controller I was thinking of, recommended by EVParts.
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=262&product_id=2116
http://www.sevcon.com/Pages/Millipak4Qa.html
MillipaK 4 Quadrant by Sevcon 24-48VDC 325Amp Max
Looks like it's perfectly sized for the E-TEK,
but that means I would need four of them...
How well would 4 of these run in parallel?
Can I just feed them all the same throttle information?
Anyone know of any better controller solutions, with regen?
keith vansickle wrote:
Ryan,
Sounds like an add on for an insight???I hope so as I
am thinking about how I can make my insight a plugin
hybred and this is one of the ideas I have been
considering.
let me know if you are thinking/working on an insight
or if there are any others on the list who are working
on Insights lets share
You betcha, I figure might aswell start out with the most
effecient gas "Hybrid" car. I'll try to get some photos
online and will be sure to share what I'm learning...
... At this point I'm still in the process of modifying
the stock rear suspension to accept the front hubs & shafts.
... Next I'll have to figure out where the other end of
those shafts will go to, and how to connect power to them.
... Finally I'll have to decide on a controller(s) and
figure out where to stuff which kind of Lead.
It should be fun...
L8r
Ryan
ps. I need to thank Father (Don Crabtree) Time
for all his help with this crazy project of mine!
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Just curious - what can be done with this motor for powering and EV?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3850379912
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Drive the accessories off the main motor, it works good. Battery amps is
reduced to about nill, It only adds about 4 to 6 motor amps. When coasting
or coming to a stop, it is then 0 amps when driving the rotating
inverter-alternator,power steering, power brakes, vacuum pump, and A/C all
at the same.
Be sure if you do this, add a vibration damper that is liquid fill type,
because there could be a off balance load on some accesssories at different
times. Also used a rubber spline fork coupler, if you turn the accessories
drive with a drive shaft off the motor. This isolates any harmonics
transmitted back through the motor.
If you used a gear flywheel, there are industrial drives units that can come
off the flywheel. Some of the new future cars are going to used this system
to drive a higher voltage alternator to drive electric power accessories.
Roland
Also it acts like compression braking, that I need when driving on icy
streets.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 6:29 AM
Subject: power steering motor
> I had kind of planned on bolting the ps pump on the front of the 9' motor
> but Bob who I'm doing the nission conversion for want it to have its own
> motor so it will run all the time . Sure I say , then after a little
> fooling
> with it find that it takes more power to turn than I had though. also all
> the small motors I have make so much noise . wondering what others have
> done .?
> Steve Clunn
>
>
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Hi Marc and All,
--- Marc Michon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> heres some data on mine have 3,000 miles on it
> www.austinev.org/evalbum/487.html
> 45 mph 3960w the sweet spot
> 50 mph 4320w
> 55mph & full acceleration 8640w
Wow! That's more than my e-woody by 25% with side
by side seating. Guess it really shows how un-aero
motorcycles are and the need for good fairing, bodies
for range and speed.
And the e-woody isn't that aero!
Thanks,
jerry dycus
> Marco
__________________________________
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.
>
> In FLA ya might find some clean rust free ones?
>
> Seeya
>
> Bob
There is a good mix here with people bring there cars here when they retire.
some kept in the garage and driven just a little , Ya know one of the
stages of EV madness is that when you look at any small cars parked you
start thinking "that would make a good electric".
Steve clunn
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In my wandering of research I ran across this article
of electric power steering replacing hydraulic power
steering. For those building EV's this is good news.
http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/030820/11/ugrz.html
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Hi Mike;
It's dead, Jim! 14 is scrap! Junk it, it will never "Recover" and do it's
share. I don't know why they do this, same thing in my Rabbit, I will be
goin' down the turnpike and notice a more serious voltage drop, to arrive at
work or home with a " Trojan Teakettle" Steaming cell, battery very hot to
the touch, better to wire it out, then spend the amps boiling the @#$%^
thing again! Hope ya have a spare battery, and if you do, cherish it, go
lightly a bunch of cycles to break it in. They need that to tougfhen up to
keep up with the other well broken in cells.
The above is a fairly common EV EVent, especially to us 50 mile
commuters, at hiway speeds. Don't feel bad, batteries live by their
standards, and die when they damn well feel like it!
Seeya
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Hoskinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 12:07 PM
Subject: Bad battery in the D
> everybody. After a year and a half on my 96 volt pack of US 250HC, one
> of them went bad yeaterday. I have always found this pack marginal for
> my most demanding run - 29 miles out to the cottage with wife, 2 big
> dogs and various supplies. Saturday I had checked the voltages about
> 10 hours after a charge and found more than the usual spread. The
> highest was 6.58 and the lowest (#14) was 6.40. So I started a 10.5
> amp equalize cycle. The pack voltage stabilized at 128.5, and 2 hours
> later had dropped by 1 volt so I quit then. After the first hour #14
> was 7.72, #16 was 8.27. None of the batteries got significantly warm
> at this rate - they were at room temperature when I started. I used 10
> amps because this is more or less what US Battery recommends; it is
> higher than what one would use for Trojans.
>
> Next morning we took the car on a 3.8 KWh errand. I plugged in the
> PFC50 at full amps (72 amps or so) so I could make the long run to the
> cottage a little later. When I unplugged an hour and a half later, the
> pack voltage was at 122 and it was drawing 10 amps. Off we went, just
> me and the dogs. I was able to take it easy because there wasn't much
> traffic. Nevertheless, the pack was somewhat flat about 3/4 of the way
> there: I was able to draw only about 120 amps while keeping the pack
> voltage at 84.
>
> When I got to the cottage, the pack voltage did not rebound above 96
> right away like it usually does, only to 94.5-95. I thought that it
> would be a good idea to check voltages before plugging in the charger.
> Much to my horror, #14 was only 4.8 volts! The lowest of the others was
> 6.09; the highest 6.20. By the time I got back to #14 it had risen to
> 5.09. I quickly checked temperatures with my IR thermometer. The
> negative end of #14 was 70C! The positive end was 42C. Most of the
> other batteries were in the high 30's. I took the caps off #14; the
> most negative cell was steaming. Ow! What have I done? Fluid levels
> were down, but not much more in that cell than in others (I had planned
> to water it up today anyway). I plugged in the charger and cautiously
> applied a few amps. The voltage of #14 quickly rose above 6. So I
> charged slowly for a while, watching temperatures. The hot cell
> continued to cool, even as I raised the amps to 50. I charged about
> half then turned it off for a couple of hours while I used the charger
> on the pickup, which had sat unused for about 3 weeks and whose
> batteries were at 0C.
>
> I'd like to learn from my mistakes, if I knew what my mistakes were.
> Did I not equalize enough? Have I been undercharging by zapping the
> pack with 70 amps with a 1 1/2 to 2 hour taper? (That is my usual
> charge pattern, but every 4 or 5 cycles I charge at 15 amps overnight).
> I really should have a battery monitoring system of some sort to try to
> avoid things getting out of hand again. The last time I approached the
> list about charging, it became evident that I had been overcharging, so
> I had turned down the acceptance voltage a couple of volts and turned
> the timer down a bit so it stopped when the amps were down below 6. Of
> course when I charge at a high rate with the PFC-50, some of the time
> at constant voltage is spent dropping down from 70amps to, say 15,
> compared to charging at a starting amperage of 15 when the constant
> voltage phase would start at 15amps and go down from there.
>
> Meanwhile, I guess #14 is toast. I considered taking one of the
> T-125's out of the pickup, but ended up putting a couple of cycles on
> it to warm up the pack then driving it home. Perhaps I will try
> individually charging #14 and keeping my runs short until I replace the
> pack. I planned to park the Citroen for the winter anyway to keeep it
> from the salt.
>
> Sigh. With this car I need at least 200 amps when the pack is down 70%
> and I'm just not getting it. Uphill both ways, just like Bob Rice
> says. Most of my cycles are 30 to 50% DOD, but those runs to the
> cottage are 70-80%.
>
> Mike Hoskinson
> Edmonton
>
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Hi all-
Wondering if anyone knows where to get a 48v Soneil charger.
Evparts is out, and says they are backordered at least a month <sigh>
-Cristin
--
La Bola Ocho Magica dice: ME FALTAN DATOS
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Hi Cristin,
Try http://www.electricrider.com/accessories/soneil.htm
Steve
In a message dated 11/3/2004 11:54:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, Gravity Girl <[EMAIL
PROTECTED]> writes:
>
>Hi all-
>
>Wondering if anyone knows where to get a 48v Soneil charger.
>
>Evparts is out, and says they are backordered at least a month <sigh>
>
>
> -Cristin
>
>
> --
>
> La Bola Ocho Magica dice: ME FALTAN DATOS
>
>
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You could just buy 4 of the 12 volt or two of the 24 volt chargers. The
price and performance is about the same. With 4 12 volt chargers your
batteries will get better individual care, though you run the risk of one
charger going bad without realizing it.
From: Gravity Girl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Source for 48v Soneil charger
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 08:54:33 -0800
Hi all-
Wondering if anyone knows where to get a 48v Soneil charger.
Evparts is out, and says they are backordered at least a month <sigh>
-Cristin
--
La Bola Ocho Magica dice: ME FALTAN DATOS
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
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Lots of questions. I must have missed something on the list. I can't
find Elecon (electric conversions) or Innevations web sites any more.
Did they go out of business?
My Zivan K2 is acting up. I start it up in bulk mode. About the time
it gets close to its 10.4 amp max output, the acceptance voltage circuit
comes acitive and the switching relay starts chattering, way below the
real acceptance voltage. Now the curerent goes down the the second
stage level and swings around between 2 and 4.4 amps with the relay
still chattering. I don't think that the charger will last long in this
mode. If I use the PFC50 to get to the acceptance voltage, then switch
to the K2, it senses the correct voltage and runs at the finish charge
current with no relay chatter. I think that this is brought on by the
damp weather and possibly an accumulation of dust over the last 4.5
years on the charger boards. I should probably take it out, disassemble
it, and clean up the boards. I'd like to have two things. A set of
schematics and a spare charger. The space available is such that no
larger charger will fit. My only onther option would be an NG3 behind
the seat, over the jack, bolted to the back wall of the cab. Any one
familiar with S-10 standard cab pickups knows how cramped the cab is.
Any one have a Zivan K2 high voltage with the IUIa algorithm that they
care to part with? It must be 220vac input and capable of 220vdc
output. The timer must run for 3 hours in finish mode. You can tell an
IUIa unit as it has 3 adjustment pots, bulk current, acceptance voltage,
finish current.
Is there schematics available?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
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Hello Paul,
Try calling 916-441-4161
http://www.zivanusa.com/index.htm
I just called and left a message with his wife (I think) to get called back. I have an
NG3 96v 110vac PbA which I'd like to get changed for 144v 110vac NiCad, to do a
similar task of finishing charge on my SAFT NiCad 100ah pack.
I've been following your discussions because I picked up this pack from another EVer
and installing in an upgraded Kewet. Laying out as double string of 72v for load, but
single string of 144v for charging. I too have a PFC-50b for bulk charging, but need
to find out a way to finish properly. Also wondering if I can use the output from the
Emeter to track the ahr in and out of the pack.
Thoughts?
-Ed Thorpe
Alameda, CA
From: Paul Wallace [mailto: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:31:06 -0800
Subject: Zivan K2 trouble, any one have a spare? what has happened to Greg McCrea and
Gary Flo?
Lots of questions. I must have missed something on the list. I can't find Elecon
(electric conversions) or Innevations web sites any more. Did they go out of business
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
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Pat,
the clutch is hydraulic. There is no adjustment available. I suppose
that there could be air in the the line, or possibly a leak, but it has
been working fine. I don't know how much clutch drag is normal with the
pedal all the way down. My garage floor has a very (almost
impreceptable) slant towards the door. I can easily push the truck
(about 1.5 tons) into the garage against the slope with one hand. If I
push the clutch in and release the brakes while the truck is sitting in
the garage, it will drift slowly towards the garage door. If I hold
the clutch pedal down hard and spin the motor about 3000rpm, the
drifting backwards just stops, but the truck does not move forward. Is
this too much drag? I have always heard the clutch plate rubbing
against the pressure plate and flywheel when I push in the pedal since
there is no exaust noise to mask it. If the radio is on and the windows
are up, I don't hear it. I don't think that the throwout bearing is
bad. As far as I know, if they are failing they make a howling noise
when the clutch is depressed. If I have the transmission in neutral and
push the clutch pedal down to the floor with the motor turning about
3000rpm, the drive train actually gets quieter. The only noise at this
point is the commutator whine and a little vibration from the
flywheel/clutch pack. If I let the clutch back out, still in neutral,
there is all sorts of bearing noise and more vibration, but this has
always been the case since I had the transmission rebuilt and put the
clutch back in. When I get a moment, I'm going to pull the slave
cylinder and peek in through the little access door on the side of the
transmission to see if there is an oil seal failure from the front of
the transmission. I am suspicious since there is an oily mark at the
bottom of the adaptor plate where the spacer to the motor attaches.
I suspect that the synchros are having a problem. When I down shift, I
always double clutch. The transmission shifts down easily this way. If
I don't double clutch, then it is quite difficult to get the next lower
gear to engage. It is now always difficult to up shift. I have to hold
the shift lever against the next gear for several seconds before it will
go into gear, and then it clashes a little. This reminds me of when the
truck was clutchless. If the truck is not moving, it shifts easily into
all gears.
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
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--- Begin Message ---
Actually, I might get the transmission out without the stands. I
haven't measured yet to see if it will slip out behind the front tire,
under the door sill. The Borg Warner T5 transmission was used in
several different vehicles, both GM and Ford. It can be unbolted from
the back of the bell housing. The service manual shows how to do this
using two dowel pins in place of two of the 4 bolts that attach the
transmission to the bell housing. This actually sounds like it would be
the best way to remove it. Then the bell housing can be removed from
the adaptor plate to gain access to the clutch. The bolts that attach
the bell housing to the adaptor plate are going to be difficult to reach
with the transmission in place. I can't reach any of the bolts from the
engine bay, there is a battery box in the way. On the other hand, with
the truck up on stands, it could be easier to swing the tools around
under the truck. I think that I would want to jack the truck with the
hydraulic floor jack under the shock to axle attachment points so that I
can put the stands under the normal jacking points. I can't put the
stands under the fame just anywhere. I tried this once and found that
the 'C' channel of the frame is too soft so it bends.
I'll need to remmember to get a clutch alignement tool.
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm looking for one of the 48v, because I want it on-board on my
scooter (evt-168) and there isn't enough room for 2 or 4 chargers. I
have Rudman Regs to take care of the balancing.
-Cristin
On Nov 3, 2004, at 9:03 AM, damon henry wrote:
You could just buy 4 of the 12 volt or two of the 24 volt chargers.
The price and performance is about the same. With 4 12 volt chargers
your batteries will get better individual care, though you run the
risk of one charger going bad without realizing it.
From: Gravity Girl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Source for 48v Soneil charger
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 08:54:33 -0800
Hi all-
Wondering if anyone knows where to get a 48v Soneil charger.
Evparts is out, and says they are backordered at least a month <sigh>
-Cristin
--
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_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wondering if anyone knows where to get a 48v Soneil charger.
I'd give evdeals a call. http://evdeals.com
Hope this helps!
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Megasite
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX - 801-749-7807
message - 866-872-8901
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A little more info about stuff:
I did some more checking today. The controller does function.. it just
seems that the current limit has been set to about 10-20A. Its not
enough to move the car, but I can get the motor to spin up if I'm
careful with the pot. When it goes into this current limit, it doesn't
just limit it, it cuts off entirely until the pot is brought back into
the range that gives a current under the limit. Very odd.
Still cant figure out the e-meter...
thanks!
-Jon Glauser
http://jon.silvercheetah.net/bsuev/index.asp
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What about dialing down the PFC50 to the 4 amps, setting the timer to
Max...2+ hours, and enabling the timer?
If you need to lower the voltage for the final phase, dial it down. Set
timer, set amps.
Or kick on the "time starts at power up" mode(SW2=ON), Then set amps, Walk
away.
There are a couple of ways to get the third charge state dialed into a
PFC50.
The IUI curve becomes a two step process.
Bulk at Max amp to peak volts. That's the first I
The peak volts hold is the U
The second I is
A lower I
and a longer U
If you need longer times that the "F" position on the timer adjust. Max out
VR2 on the top controller PCB. Min Hertz and Max timer select can get out to
8 hours of timer.
I just checked the Hz windows on a controller.
The main clock pulses can be set from 21.40 Ms to 64.9 milli seconds
They ship set to mid scale of 43.95mSec. This gives about 15 min for the
first tick of the timer adjust and 10 min for all the rest of the ticks.
Maxing the Freg adjust VR2 gives 228 minutes for a full time out.
Or just short of 4 hours.
Adjusting C7 .22uF up will slow the clock even further.
Remember that Dip SW 1=ON Starts the timer at the peak voltage setting
Dip SW 2=ON Starts the timer at power up.
Dip SW 3=ON Starts the timer at MaxRegtemp interupt.
So Dumb charging at 4 amps for 4 hours is Setting the VR2 pot to Full CW,
Setting the timer Adjust to F or one tick CCW from 3 O'clock.
Turn Sw 1 off.
Sw 2 on ,
3,4 on But not used.
Dial in 4 amps with the Amps knob.
Wait for the Solid Blue to come on in about 4 hours.
Done.
Note that the Blue blinks... But Sloooooowwwwllllllllyyyyyyy.
Even the Zivan does not count electrons. So... if you can do it with a
Zivan, you can do it with the PFC and a screwdriver.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Wallace" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 9:31 AM
Subject: Zivan K2 trouble, any one have a spare? what has happened to Greg
McCrea and Gary Flo?
> Lots of questions. I must have missed something on the list. I can't
> find Elecon (electric conversions) or Innevations web sites any more.
> Did they go out of business?
>
> My Zivan K2 is acting up. I start it up in bulk mode. About the time
> it gets close to its 10.4 amp max output, the acceptance voltage circuit
> comes acitive and the switching relay starts chattering, way below the
> real acceptance voltage. Now the curerent goes down the the second
> stage level and swings around between 2 and 4.4 amps with the relay
> still chattering. I don't think that the charger will last long in this
> mode. If I use the PFC50 to get to the acceptance voltage, then switch
> to the K2, it senses the correct voltage and runs at the finish charge
> current with no relay chatter. I think that this is brought on by the
> damp weather and possibly an accumulation of dust over the last 4.5
> years on the charger boards. I should probably take it out, disassemble
> it, and clean up the boards. I'd like to have two things. A set of
> schematics and a spare charger. The space available is such that no
> larger charger will fit. My only onther option would be an NG3 behind
> the seat, over the jack, bolted to the back wall of the cab. Any one
> familiar with S-10 standard cab pickups knows how cramped the cab is.
>
> Any one have a Zivan K2 high voltage with the IUIa algorithm that they
> care to part with? It must be 220vac input and capable of 220vdc
> output. The timer must run for 3 hours in finish mode. You can tell an
> IUIa unit as it has 3 adjustment pots, bulk current, acceptance voltage,
> finish current.
>
> Is there schematics available?
>
> Paul Wallace
> '91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yea this has been tried with some tricks..
The E-meter/Link10 has some settings that can be used.
There is a Lowbatt lift lock out alarm, on some of them, and a inverse of
that.
But you can have some charge floors and peaks trip some lines coming
from the E-meter, These can be buffered and used to yank the PFC RegBuss
back or off.
I tried in the old days, and there was trouble.. You could not get a signal
out that equaled the flashing Green... the "charge params met" signal.
Parsing the serial data on a PC and then driving a signal low from the
PC is of course doable. But now you are using the E-meter as a Data
collector and your PC as a
charger controller. If you stick to the Regbuss port control, you can have
the voltage and current limits on the installed charger controller,
active... And your PC code can't tell the charger to do something that it's
already programmed not to do.
Messing with the remote control port... one can hurt the
charger.... and you can tell it what todo... including frying your
batteries.
The control of the Monster charger does all this. With a PC and $1000 of
ADAM modules.... and I still don't get more than a few paces from
it.....Trust of hardware and software comes with a LOT Of time spent
watching it do what it is supposed to.
And no "Events"
----- Original Message -----
From: "EAA-contact" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 9:56 AM
Subject: RE: Zivan K2 trouble, any one have a spare? what has happened to
Greg McCrea and Gary Flo?
>
> Hello Paul,
>
> Try calling 916-441-4161
> http://www.zivanusa.com/index.htm
>
> I just called and left a message with his wife (I think) to get called
back. I have an NG3 96v 110vac PbA which I'd like to get changed for 144v
110vac NiCad, to do a similar task of finishing charge on my SAFT NiCad
100ah pack.
>
> I've been following your discussions because I picked up this pack from
another EVer and installing in an upgraded Kewet. Laying out as double
string of 72v for load, but single string of 144v for charging. I too have a
PFC-50b for bulk charging, but need to find out a way to finish properly.
Also wondering if I can use the output from the Emeter to track the ahr in
and out of the pack.
>
> Thoughts?
> -Ed Thorpe
> Alameda, CA
>
> From: Paul Wallace [mailto: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:31:06 -0800
> Subject: Zivan K2 trouble, any one have a spare? what has happened to Greg
McCrea and Gary Flo?
>
> Lots of questions. I must have missed something on the list. I can't find
Elecon (electric conversions) or Innevations web sites any more. Did they go
out of business
>
> Paul Wallace
> '91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
>
> _______________________________________________
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
--- End Message ---
