EV Digest 4303
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Jump-starting?
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Pics of the Big Guy, mechanical questions (was Re: New EV
Dragster)
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Gettting EVery word out
by Travis Raybold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Gettting EVery word out
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Problem with T-Rex throttle setting
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Problem with T-Rex throttle setting
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Seattle Parks and Recreation Alternatively Fueled Vehicle Rally
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: Jump-starting?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) TdS Report #11: Photos - Bassi Scientific Entries in the E-Bike and NEV
Category
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Re: Jump-starting?
by Tom Hudson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Need help with Curtis 1204 Controller
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Mechanical PWM ideas
by "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) TdS Report #10: Team Profile: Bassi Scientific
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Newbie introduction
by "SouthwestAuctions" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Jump-starting?
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) ICE for series hybrid
by Matt Holthausen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Problem with T-Rex throttle setting
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: New pictures of the Ghiamonster
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: about PHEV
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Mechanical PWM Controllers
by "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Jump-starting?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Tom Hudson writes:
>
> So I'm stuck with a situation where I need to somehow get that pack
> voltage kicked up to around 50V -- Any suggestions? I have our 144V
> Solectria E-10 sitting right there, is there a safe way to have it give
> the Force a "transfusion"? Or can I rig some other way? I also have a
> spare, standard Brusa NLG412 charger that doesn't require the pack
> voltage, but to do any charging, it's gonna want temperature sensors and
> stuff hooked up.
Tom,
You should be able to reconfigure your extra Brusa charger to tell it
there are no temperature sensors, and then use it to bring your pack up
enough to get your normal charger started.
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Christopher Robison"
Moderators: I will respect your wishes to discontinue this discussion on
this list, however it is very much in the interest of getting a cool EV on
the road, and is in reference to issues encountered with the sole cause of
gonzo electric torque... :o)
--chris
I have sombody who also is doing a project with a 13" so I'm very interested
in what you come up with , why take it off list , If what you do works ,
others will follow . If you do , can you include me in your e mails
steve clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
speaking of getting the word out... a few months back i got a note on my
electric car asking if i would be willing to be filmed for a tv show. i
complied of course, and they filmed me talking to a couple of folks
about my electric car. it was nice, because it was just an impromptu
conversation.
over the past few days i have just heard that the episode is airing now.
it is a program called globe trekker, it follows a tourist through the
pacific northwest. i've had several friends say they have seen it, as
well as a couple of strangers stop me on the street to say they had seen
it. i've not seen it yet, so i can't vouch for what they put in, but my
friends thought it played well.
i'm not the most avid about preaching about evs, but parking a cute
little convertible in front of the portland world trade center every,
plugged into one of the only public ev charging stations in the city
probably does more than i ever could anyway. several times a week
someone will stop to ask about the car on my way in our out of the office.
--travis
Bob Bath wrote:
Hi Friends,
This was a great week for me; trying to EVangelize
the masses.
First, I've had a partnership with the local Junior
College (JC). There's a mech-tech instructor there who
hit it off really well with me 6 years ago, and I've
demo'd the car there once or twice a year ever since.
This time, I brought "Convert It", and the powerpoint
presentation I put together. Usually the students are
interested, but only to a point. _This_ year, I'm
telling you, they were believers. Two of 8 took down
the book info and are ready to start on their own
conversions.
Second, I wrote a letter to the editor. As always,
they hacked it for space. (I had attacked GM for
smashing the EV-1, of course). It is published in
today's ORegonian.
People, these are the steps we need to take. If
_each_ of us shows up to a local JC with our cars, at
10 kids or better per class, it makes a difference.
Another benefit: if you have an issue you lack
expertise in, say, changing out a 1/2-shaft, it can be
quid-pro-quo; you pay parts and do your demo, the
students supply labor. I'd call that a win-win.
Chuckling along in electric car
I was one of probably 50 Oregonians to chuckle at your
article, "Lack of fuel sources hurts West." The
article asserts that because our state lacks refining
capacity, all drivers are affected, to the tune of 30
cents to 40 cents per gallon.
My "fuel link" is about 20 steps to the garage. I
simply plug my 1992 Honda Civic conversion into the
wall to charge the 18 batteries that power it. Even
with the added cost of purchasing electric power from
wind power, my "fueling" cost is $6 per month.
There are about 4,000 of us across the nation who have
taken about $7,000 and some electronic and
metal-fabricating know-how to break the addiction to
oil. Most of our cars use lead-acid batteries and get
a range of 40 miles -- ample for most of our
commuting. Recent battery technology, however, would
extend our range to more than 100 miles.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand that
alternatives to petroleum exist, if we just question
the status quo.
BOB BATH Grants Pass
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I caught that piece the other day. I've been meaning to post about it, but
for the life of me, couldn't remember your name. Globe Trekker is one of
the 2 PBS travel shows I am addicted to, the other being Rick Steeves.
I was watching the show and there was our charging station, then there was
the car, and finally there was Travis. I caught a glimpse of a few of the
YT's in the car, then realized that I currently have one of the old YT's in
my van as the SLA battery. Cool... that makes me almost as famous as
Travis!
damon
From: Travis Raybold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Gettting EVery word out
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 07:42:51 -0700
speaking of getting the word out... a few months back i got a note on my
electric car asking if i would be willing to be filmed for a tv show. i
complied of course, and they filmed me talking to a couple of folks about
my electric car. it was nice, because it was just an impromptu
conversation.
over the past few days i have just heard that the episode is airing now. it
is a program called globe trekker, it follows a tourist through the pacific
northwest. i've had several friends say they have seen it, as well as a
couple of strangers stop me on the street to say they had seen it. i've not
seen it yet, so i can't vouch for what they put in, but my friends thought
it played well.
i'm not the most avid about preaching about evs, but parking a cute little
convertible in front of the portland world trade center every, plugged into
one of the only public ev charging stations in the city probably does more
than i ever could anyway. several times a week someone will stop to ask
about the car on my way in our out of the office.
--travis
Bob Bath wrote:
Hi Friends,
This was a great week for me; trying to EVangelize
the masses.
First, I've had a partnership with the local Junior
College (JC). There's a mech-tech instructor there who
hit it off really well with me 6 years ago, and I've
demo'd the car there once or twice a year ever since. This time, I brought
"Convert It", and the powerpoint
presentation I put together. Usually the students are
interested, but only to a point. _This_ year, I'm
telling you, they were believers. Two of 8 took down
the book info and are ready to start on their own
conversions.
Second, I wrote a letter to the editor. As always,
they hacked it for space. (I had attacked GM for
smashing the EV-1, of course). It is published in
today's ORegonian.
People, these are the steps we need to take. If
_each_ of us shows up to a local JC with our cars, at
10 kids or better per class, it makes a difference. Another benefit: if
you have an issue you lack
expertise in, say, changing out a 1/2-shaft, it can be
quid-pro-quo; you pay parts and do your demo, the
students supply labor. I'd call that a win-win.
Chuckling along in electric car
I was one of probably 50 Oregonians to chuckle at your
article, "Lack of fuel sources hurts West." The
article asserts that because our state lacks refining
capacity, all drivers are affected, to the tune of 30
cents to 40 cents per gallon.
My "fuel link" is about 20 steps to the garage. I
simply plug my 1992 Honda Civic conversion into the
wall to charge the 18 batteries that power it. Even
with the added cost of purchasing electric power from
wind power, my "fueling" cost is $6 per month.
There are about 4,000 of us across the nation who have
taken about $7,000 and some electronic and
metal-fabricating know-how to break the addiction to
oil. Most of our cars use lead-acid batteries and get
a range of 40 miles -- ample for most of our
commuting. Recent battery technology, however, would
extend our range to more than 100 miles.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand that
alternatives to petroleum exist, if we just question
the status quo.
BOB BATH Grants Pass
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V ____ __/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yea good quality gasketed Multi turns That would have been nice. and about
$50s a pot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Viera" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: Problem with T-Rex throttle setting
> Hi,
>
> Rich Rudman wrote:
> > Multi turn pots??? That would make the problem worse. SNIP But... the
> > pot doesn't wear, and you never have open scratchy pots. This is
> > truley a better throttle sensor than a PB6 or wound wire pot. SNIP
> > Multi turn pots don't weather very well. compared to a Steel slug in
> > a plastic tube inside a 200 turn coil.
>
> Rich, you mis-understood what I was saying. I was suggesting that it
> would have been nice if the "MAX THR" and "I" potentiometers on the
> Raptor/T-Rex controllers were the multi-turn type. I was *not* talking
> about the throttle switch nor about changing it from an inductive pickup
> to a potentiometer.
>
> --
> -Nick
> http://Go.DriveEV.com/
> 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
> ---------------------------
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Yea good quality gasketed Multi turns That would have been
> nice. and about
> $50s a pot.
EZ-GO golf cart ITS (Inductive Throttle Sensor) cost about $65 plus another
$30 or so for the core...never will wear.
-Myles
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Seattle Parks and Recreation Alternatively Fueled Vehicle Rally
>
> You're invited to the 2005 Earth Month Seattle Parks and
> Recreation Alternatively Fueled Vehicle Rally
---------------------
Greetings List-Members:
We thought we�d take this opportunity to delurk and introduce ourselves as we
live nearby to this event
and are hoping to attend. Lots of technical info going over our heads here, but
a little will sink in over time
we hope!
We haven�t had much luck in our halting search for a suitable used conversion,
and are still pondering
doing a conversion ourselves (no serious automotive experience, just a DIY
attitude and willingness to get
dirty). Two kids and a big dog rule out the �traditional� Rabbit/Geo solution;
we are trying to research
larger vehicles, and could perhaps live with a pickup that could seat three. We
talked to someone selling a
e-Blazer, but didn�t have enough EV knowledge to move on it before it sold.
Will post later to ask for advice,
but for now just wanted to say hello!
If anyone goes to the Seattle Sand Point event on Saturday and sees a puzzled
looking guy with hair down
to his butt, with a cute strawberry blonde gal with freckles, that would be us!
Cheers, Pat & Chris Clarke
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tom Hudson wrote:
...
I plugged in the car and the charger won't boot. Checking the pack
voltage, it's sitting at 30 volts, and the Brusa charger needs something
like 50V to boot up.
Tom, it needs only 12V to "boot". It probobly can start charging
if the pack is at near zero volts(I never has such situation, so didn't
try) if programmed taht way.
It's a really stupid design, if you ask me -- It
should be able to use the line voltage to run itself even if the pack is
too low.
This is stupid Solectria policy, not the charger design.
Solectria wanted to prevent any problems with users messing with
charger software, so not only made numbers fixed, (50V or whatever)
but also password protected the software so only them can change that
(and of course charge you). BRUSA didn't like that idea at the time,
but unless comply wouldn't get Solectria's business. So since
any issue's with this would really be Solectria's problem, BRUSA
went for it (allow protected software).
So I'm stuck with a situation where I need to somehow get that pack
voltage kicked up to around 50V -- Any suggestions?
1. Isolated bad boy across the pack for couple of hours.
2. Connect couple of small 12V batts in series with main pack to raise
voltage 24V. May be enough to start.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
TdS Report #11: Photos - Bassi Scientific Entries in the E-Bike and NEV Category
Photographs from the Tour de Sol:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005/photos_002.html
Bassi Scientific Entries in the E-Bike and NEV Category
Photos provided by Tony Basilicato.
Several of Tony Basilicato's EVs
A photo from the April 17, 2003, edition of "The Sound" newspaper,
Bradford Connecticut.
Photos provided by Tony Basilicato.
- - - -
The complete set of Tour de Sol Reports for 2005 can be found at:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005
The complete set of past Tour de Sol Reports can be found at:
http://www.FovealSystems.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
- - - -
The above is Copyright 2005 by Michael H. Bianchi.
Permission to copy is granted provided the entire article is presented
without modification and this notice remains attached.
For other arrangements, contact me at +1-973-822-2085 .
- - - -
For more on the NESEA Tour de Sol, see the web page at
http://www.TourdeSol.org
- - - -
Official NESEA Tour de Sol information is available from the sponsor,
the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association (NESEA) at
413 774-6051 , and 50 Miles Street, Greenfield, MA 01301 , and
[EMAIL PROTECTED] . All media enquiries should be addressed to ...
Jack Groh
Tour de Sol Communications Director
P.O. Box 6044
Warwick, RI 02887-6044
401 732-1551
401 732-0547 fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I've said it before and I'll say it again -- The EV List ROCKS.
You guys are great.
After looking over all the options listed, I decided to go with Evan's
100W light bulb idea, partially because I had used the light bulb trick
years ago to limit current for charging batteries in one of my models,
but mostly because I had all the parts needed for the job:
100W bulb, standard light socket (left over from a recent remodeling
project), wire and Anderson connectors -- A small one that fits the
E-10's charger connector and a big gray one that fits the Force's motor
controller connector.
I built up the thing with the negatives connected between the connectors
and the positives hooked to the bulb socket. I double-checked
everything and plugged the big connector to the Force, then the small
connector into the truck. The bulb started out really bright, then
gradually started to dim a bit as the pack voltage climbed. I let the
voltage rise to about 75V, where it started to taper off, then
disconnected everything and reconnected the Force's charger. It booted
right up! WOO HOO!!!
I was then able to run some tests that I needed to do to check for bad
relays in the cooling system. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to
recommission the pack
Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions!
-Tom
--
Thomas Hudson
http://portdistrict5.org -- 5th District Aldermanic Website
http://portev.org -- Electric Vehicles, Solar Power & More
http://portgardenclub.org -- Port Washington Garden Club
http://portlightstation.org -- Light Station Restoration
http://klanky.com -- Animation Projects
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OOps. I think it needs to be close to 0 ohms then ramp up. If the
controller sees too many ohms it shuts down. Thinks you have the pedal to
the metal. This keeps you from having unexpected launches. You have to get
it to 0 pedal or the safety kicks in. LR>.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV LIST" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 3:41 AM
Subject: Need help with Curtis 1204 Controller
I am doing something wrong.
This is my first experience with any controller.
It is a Curtis 1204 36-48 VDC 225AMP
I bought it used and when I could not make it work I sent it back to be
tested.
They tried it in a golf cart and it worked.
Since this is my second 'DOA' from 2 different sources, I am pretty sure
that it is me that is not working and not the controller.
It seemed simple enough:
Battery plus to Controller plus.
Battery minus to controller minus.
Motor plus to Controller plus.
Motor minus to 2nd Controller minus.
Center of 10k pot to control terminal #2
End of 10k pot to control terminal #3
Battery plus to key terminal #1
I twist the pot one way and then the other, or I set it to 2K ohms.
Nothing!
Is there something that I am missing? A technique or a subtle hint?
Stu
www.stulieberman.com <http://www.stulieberman.com/> photos of $100
homebuilt elevator, recumbent trike, etc.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
TdS Report #10: Team Profile: Bassi Scientific
In the E-Bike & NEV Competition of the Tour de Sol, Bassi Scientific has 2
vehicles entered:
Number 33 An E-Bike
Number 34 An E-Racer
Number 35 A Neighborhood Electric Vehicle (NEV)
While Tony Basilicato hails from Georgia, the Team is based at Bradford High
School in Connecticut. In 2002, Tony "B" joined the Technology Education
Department to build several electric bikes, trikes, neighborhood and racing
vehicles.
Tony, now 70 years old, sent his part of the story:
"This whole Bassi Scientific thing was created in '74 (in my mind) while I was
waiting to get $1.00 worth of gas for my Thunderbird - on my way to work some
40 miles away from my home where I occupied the position as National Service
Manager of the Edwards Company. My thoughts - How can I help America? It was
a bad situation but little did I know the need for foreign oil would raise such
bleak interjections.
:
:
"What came out of my work was 2 different approached to driving vehicles
electrically with cordless supplies. I named them - "The Resonant Factor" &
"The Impedance Factor".
:
"I have just two prototypes existing - One of each theory. The electric bike
incorporates 'The Resonant Factor'. Briefly, a 1/3 hp motor drive - 15 mph -
theoretical 75 miles/charge. My son will attempt to run it for 3 hours during
the Tour competition w/o pedal assist. The design is some 30 years old - the
bike approx. 27. It weighs in under 70#'s and has been equipped with a 4 oz
2hr charger - in the past. It will not be so equipped for the Tour. Main
feature. Motor stays cool.
"The Trike is fashioned in 'The Impedance Factor' fashion - It has torque and
not quickness. It is driven by a 1/4 hp motor to a speed of about 12 mph. It
weighs in about 150#'s and is driven for 1 hour by one 80 ampere-hour battery -
Termed industrial EV - it has many times pulled a car. Again - Important
aspect - the motor run KOOL - Termed the 'KOOL DUV". To save controversy, I
will not resort to factoring the various theories of operation. This EV will
be for display only. It has some 30,000 miles on it over the last 30 years.
"The other 2 EV's are basically teaching machines. Both are driven by 1 hp
motors. The E-Racer can reach speeds (with my wife @ the wheel) approaching 35
mph. Average speed over a course - somewhere about 25 mph. It will run that
speed with a supply of about 64 lbs of batteries ( 2-18 ampere hr. & 4-14 ah in
series/parallel). This is more convention with a few trick I have
incorporated. It is about as efficient as a conventional EV can be and
students must strive to complete and compete. The E-Racer placed 2nd in an
efficiency contest in '03 driven by middle school kids that had never driven
before and where pitted against seasoned seniors.
"The last vehicle is a slo-speed NEV. It is ideal for teaching students what
makes up an EV. It is some what efficient. It has the same components as the
E-Racer, but is more of a practical machine. It is still being tested but the
result appears that this NEV powered by 4 - 18 ah batteries can maintain a
constant speed of 12 mph for an hour or 12 miles. It was designed as to
encompass all terrain with only tire changes. I will be driving this vehicle."
:
Tony E Basilicato
Bassi Scientific - Non-Profit/Educational
1253 Alden Drive
Augusta, GA 30906-8755
706-793-8761
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- - - -
The complete set of Tour de Sol Reports for 2005 can be found at:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005
The complete set of past Tour de Sol Reports can be found at:
http://www.FovealSystems.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
- - - -
The above is Copyright 2005 by Michael H. Bianchi.
Permission to copy is granted provided the entire article is presented
without modification and this notice remains attached.
For other arrangements, contact me at +1-973-822-2085 .
- - - -
For more on the NESEA Tour de Sol, see the web page at
http://www.TourdeSol.org
- - - -
Official NESEA Tour de Sol information is available from the sponsor,
the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association (NESEA) at
413 774-6051 , and 50 Miles Street, Greenfield, MA 01301 , and
[EMAIL PROTECTED] . All media enquiries should be addressed to ...
Jack Groh
Tour de Sol Communications Director
P.O. Box 6044
Warwick, RI 02887-6044
401 732-1551
401 732-0547 fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Allow me to introduce myself.
My name is Andrew Goldschmidt. My wife and I run a business named Southwest
Auctions Online L.L.C. We sell other peoples' stuff on ebay. We specialize in
Race cars, motorcycles, jetskis, etc., though we do sell almost anything of
value.
We have recently been contacted to sell an ex Indy Light race car that was
converted to electric. It is still set up for it though the batteries,
controller and motor have all been removed. This was actually a Tom Brawner car.
During my research I came across this mailing list and was quite intrigued. I
am an aircraft mechanic and avionics tech by trade, had raced jetskis for many
years then rotary engined cars, and now race Formula Ford cars. i have always
wanted to build an electric jetski, but did not know where to go for info. Any
advice on the feasability would be appreciated.
As for the Indy car, we are exploring the options of whether to sell it whole
or part it out. i will let you all know the fate of this car as this project
progresses.
For now, I appreciate the bandwidth and appreciate anyone's input.
Thanks,
-AndrewG
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor-
Are you sure this "Stupid Solectria Policy" has nothing to do with the
SAFT NiCad warranty that requires a certain charge profile? And by
extension, Solectria's need to make sure the profile was adhered to? Or
are you quoting Josef Brusa? Because it doesn't sound like his style.
Seth
On Apr 22, 2005, at 12:44 PM, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Tom Hudson wrote:
...
I plugged in the car and the charger won't boot. Checking the pack
voltage, it's sitting at 30 volts, and the Brusa charger needs
something like 50V to boot up.
Tom, it needs only 12V to "boot". It probobly can start charging
if the pack is at near zero volts(I never has such situation, so
didn't try) if programmed taht way.
It's a really stupid design, if you ask me -- It should be able to
use the line voltage to run itself even if the pack is too low.
This is stupid Solectria policy, not the charger design.
Solectria wanted to prevent any problems with users messing with
charger software, so not only made numbers fixed, (50V or whatever)
but also password protected the software so only them can change that
(and of course charge you). BRUSA didn't like that idea at the time,
but unless comply wouldn't get Solectria's business. So since
any issue's with this would really be Solectria's problem, BRUSA
went for it (allow protected software).
So I'm stuck with a situation where I need to somehow get that pack
voltage kicked up to around 50V -- Any suggestions?
1. Isolated bad boy across the pack for couple of hours.
2. Connect couple of small 12V batts in series with main pack to raise
voltage 24V. May be enough to start.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A quick question for the (illustrious) members of the EV list:
I may have the option to purchase a complete 1989 Honda Civic for $100.
How well would the 1.5l 16 valve 4-cylinder serve as the ICE side of a
generator for my series-hybrid Ranger? It is fuel injected, but only
throttle-body. Is this way too big of an engine, or would it be ok? How
about on the efficiency side of things?
Thanks for your input
-Matt Holthausen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
>> Yea, good quality gasketed Multi turns That would have been
>> nice. and about $50s a pot.
Yep; that's about right for a really good throttle pot.
Myles Twete wrote:
> EZ-GO golf cart ITS (Inductive Throttle Sensor) cost about $65
> plus another $30 or so for the core... never will wear.
That's about right, too. The pots are cheaper and still last forever, so
that's what I use.
--
If you would not be forgotten
When your body's dead and rotten
Then write of great deeds worth the reading
Or do the great deeds worth repeating
-- Ben Franklin, Poor Richard's Almanac
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Open your eyes Rod.
The rest of the failures are NOT becasue the anything bent.
Yea I was behind you when the Gear came rolling buy.....
Rest your Case????
NOT likely.
Break your case probably.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: New pictures of the Ghiamonster
> OK Rich, do I have to get out the two by four. Watch the show and you will
> see the pulley come off the back on the way to the track. This damaged the
> belts by riding up on the top of the teeth. Or maybe you just think it is
a
> sheer coincidence that that is the side that broke. Not only that, they
were
> up over the teeth in front of you before we ever left for Vegas. Being as
> old as you are you probably forgot that little fact. The truth is the
belts
> were severely damaged before we got a run in and the bearings were still
> moving on the outboard side. I was under there working on it. I remember
the
> problem and the different ways we tried to compensate for the movement. It
> was not a solid set up for the belts and they never got a fair chance. We
> went to chain because it was readily available for one thing. I am not
going
> to redo this project just to prove you wrong. I will save this for another
> time. You are correct that bigger teeth make for a stronger drive but they
> did not make them in the ratio we chose which turned out to be ideal in my
> opinion. 72 to 98 mph in 5.1 seconds from the eighth with a lunched tranny
> and turned down controllers. I rest my case.
>
> Roderick Wilde
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> www.suckamps.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 1:09 PM
> Subject: Re: New pictures of the Ghiamonster
>
>
> I whole hardly dissagree Rod
>
> We broke them with solid torque.
> I have a couple of them right here.
>
> No, the numbers I came up with, was we were making 4800 lbs of stress
> minumum on the belts. FT and the Goodyear Rep were lead to believe that
1300
> Ftlbs was what they were good for.
> Ftlbs of torque and Lbs of stress are two very different data points.
Plus
> it's rather clear that we did not have the minimum teeth count to handle
the
> torque on the driven pulleys.
>
> Stick with Chain or Steel gear sets if you are going over 200 lbs of
> torque.
>
> Otmar punches 400 ft lbs through these belts, But his driven is 6 inches
in
> diameter, and he has the 14 mm pitch teeth.
>
> Lets keep the BS to a Minimum Rod... Even with a solid bearing setup We
> still blew the belts at about 1/2 the amps we could make. That would be
> about 1/3 the torque we could make.
>
> You might want to ask FT... I don't think he Buys this line this year.
Last
> year maybe...
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 6:06 PM
> Subject: Re: New pictures of the Ghiamonster
>
>
> > Philippe, please do not believe what you see on TV or even everything
you
> > read on this list. The belts on "Gone Postal" DID NOT break due to
torque.
> > They broke because the bearing blocks we ordered were supposed to be
rigid
> > and in functionality the bearing ended up moving causing the belts to be
> > severely out of line so much so that they were forced to ride up over
the
> > teeth and spin thus destroying the belt. F.T. aka Don Crabtree had
> > calculated their strength and I have every reason to believe they would
> have
> > held with the proper bearing blocks.
> >
> > Roderick Wilde
> > "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> > www.suckamps.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 12:33 PM
> > Subject: Re: New pictures of the Ghiamonster
> >
> >
> > Steve,
> > be carreful with torque and speed on synchronous belts, Gates poly chain
> is
> > one of the best polyurethane/kevlar belt (so strong she can outlife
chain)
> > BUT you have to validate your design before testing, don't make same
> mistake
> > than Gone postal ;^)
> >
> > You need Gates PolyChain 14M-PCGT2 or Powergrip 14M-PGGT3
> > pitch 14 (biggest available)
> > choose maximum width 90mm or 125mm, for your power level maybe you need
> two
> > side by side (so more than 1000KW transmission is ok)....
> > be carreful with belt speed because Polychain degrade faster after 4000
> > rev/m, Powergrip GT3 is ok up to 10 000 rev but have less torque
> resistance.
> > be carefull with motor pulley teeth number, not enough and torque is
going
> > to kill belt teeth at launch.
> >
> > I advise you to download free Designflex 2K to make all your
calculation.
> >
> > fascinating project,keep us posted please,
> > Philippe
> >
> > Et si le pot d'�chappement sortait au centre du volant ?
> > quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
> > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
> > Forum de discussion sur les v�hicules �lectriques
> > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 8:26 PM
> > Subject: Re: New pictures of the Ghiamonster
> >
> >
> > > Gates Poly chain is a belt
> > >
> > > I am worried about all the torque and the mounting plates also.
> > > What kind of motors?? Warp What? 7s or 8s?
> > > They look different than the Warp 8s I handled for the Uof W team two
> > weeks
> > > ago.
> > >
> > > I would love to stuff 1000 amps into them and see what happens on the
> > Dyno.
> > >
> > > A bit if historic warnings... the Megawatt monster of Bob Boyds, had
> > > tripple motors and 2 sets. For 6 motors. This package has never
> performed
> > as
> > > well as it should.
> > > There was a LOT of parasitic losses and hard to ballence currents and
> > > curves.
> > > It should GO like heck. But it has not impressed me.
> > > The Silver bullet of Tom True's has a single set of these motors
> from
> > > the Megawatt monster. I have driven it, it's fun and will rip your
head
> > off.
> > > But at 120 volts it's reliable and setting record as of last year.
> > > But we shot for many more volts and all they did was break controllers
> and
> > > drive train parts. With a Raptor 1200 per motor, and 120 volts They
can
> > > atleast make many runs. They broke the rear end halfshaft at Vegas
last
> > > year, just playing with it in first gear. GOT torque. Now they need to
> get
> > > some high end pull. That's going to take more volts and more motor
work.
> > >
> > > The plates that hold the motor in line needs to be hell for stout, and
> as
> > > light as they can make it. There's gonna be thousands of pounds of
force
> > > trying to crush it and bend it.
> > > And Joe is right in asking how the Brush end is going to be clear for
> > > advancing efforts.
> > > We will see. Steve needs to get it down the track acouple of times
> before
> > we
> > > really decend on him for better designs. This one will work.
> > > I have no doubts from the Flywheel clutch face back. The rest is about
> as
> > > good as it gets.
> > >
> > > I wish I had this toy Box of parts to play with....
> > >
> > > Gone Postal is a Joke compared to the level of drive train parts that
> this
> > > Ev will have.
> > > Frankly this level of drive train engineering is WHAT should have been
> > > designed into GP, in the first place.
> > >
> > > I am Green with envey.
> > > Steve ???
> > > Need a driver????
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: "Steve Marks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 7:57 AM
> > > Subject: Re: New pictures of the Ghiamonster
> > >
> > >
> > > > Wow. All three motors mounted in thin sheet metal & using one of
the
> > > motors
> > > > to be the drive shaft? Nice light plan. Nice three motor
> > installation.
> > > > Otmar will be envious. That thing should fly. Are you going to use
a
> > > Gates
> > > > Poly Chain or belt? LR...
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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> >
>
>
>
>
> --
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>
>
>
>
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>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, now that we have cleared the air a bit.
I knew Marc was being profesionaly shy.
They have a good product, no need for them to brag at all.
There are other Lions athat if abused don't have the fail safes... and that
is a big point for us knucle head 1000 amp Evers.
What we call a good launch is basicly a short circuit test on most
batteries. So fare well some don't.
Weather a Lion supplier has actually tested his product or not, is a good
guess. It's pretty clear that Valence has done thier home work, But Marc
can't give us the complete Lab notes.
That's OK for now...
Just knowing tips my hands on recomending a particular Lithium vendor.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: about PHEV
> Rich,
>
> As I said before, I apologize.
>
> My sword, as you say, has always been sheathed.
>
> Being a newbie, I don't know everything and that is one of the reason's
that I am on this list, to learn.
>
> I had no idea that everybody knew that Marc was employed by Valence, I
guess I just never saw any posts of his that were Lithium related (and there
certainly have been a lot of them), but I obviously know he is one of their
employees now... been told by several people...
>
> But, in passing I will point out that it seems also the there are more
knowledgeable and long term members on the list that think that Marc's
treatment of the other battery manufactures was unfair.
>
> As I said in the beginning, the sword was never unsheathed, that is just
your opinion, which I will fight to the death to uphold...
>
> Do I have your blessing to stay...<G>
>
> Rush Dougherty
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 12:56 PM
> Subject: Re: about PHEV
>
>
> > Hey Rush....
> >
> > Please stop attacking a solid list member.
> > We all know Mark and his current employer.
> > And are really glad to have him on this list keeping the Lion Claims in
the
> > real ball park.
> >
> > Try not to attack with such aggressiveness...
> > There is no reason to cross examine everything he says.
> >
> > Getting nasty in the first few weeks your name appears on this list is a
> > great way to get Kicked off it.
> >
> > Sheath your sword or leave.
> >
> > Rich Rudman
> > Manzanita Micro.
> > My opinions ARE corporate policy.
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am intrigued by mechanical equivalents of PWM controllers.
I came across an old Mother Earth article in which a hybrid Opel was
described.
See: An Amazing
<http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1979_July_August/An_Amazing_75_MPG_H
ybrid_Electic_Car> 75-MPG Hybrid Electic Car
The following is in the article.
GROWING PAINS
Any project fresh off the drawing board has its share of problems, and the
Opel hybrid was no exception. When David pressed the accelerator for the
first time, he got a 300-amp surge which melted his relays. So he searched
his graduate texts for the answer ... and finally found it in-of all
places-an old high school physics book: A pulser was necessary to "chop" the
current flow and prevent a heavy initial draw to the drive motor.
As Dave explains it, "The motor will always have full voltage and full
current, but the pulser makes it 'think' the voltage and amperage are cut
down to about 1/4 of what's actually available. With this gadget-which is
simply a combination of a reworked car generator and an old fan motor-I can
keep the draw within limits and effectively control the car's acceleration .
. . without sacrificing the maximum current or voltage that's necessary for
high-speed driving. I could have achieved the same results with a
commercially available FCR control ... but one of those units would have cut
my power slightly, and cost in the neighborhood of $800! I can build my own
device for about $25, and I can fix it myself if it breaks!"
I recently came across an article about a mechanical controller used in
Robots:
http://www.psi-design.co.uk/ideas/Rotraktor/Electronics.htm
The inventor came up with a tapered commutator that would go from zero to
100%. Very simple idea.
I am interested in taking the idea to the next level.
1> To integrate the controller with a motor.
2> To be able to start the motor and its commutator from a dead stop.
I believe that it can be done.
Advantages: Any current the motor can handle, the controller with equal or
additional brushes will easily carry the current.
Low cost.
Simple linear push-pull throttle
Transparent for troubleshooting.
Fewer wires.
Very little loss.
Compact.
Comments most welcome.
Stu
www.stulieberman.com <http://www.stulieberman.com/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, I perhaps didn't paint complete picture nere - BRUSA was told
to make software not accessible by Solecteria who was buying
these chargers. And Solecteria's decision was probably dictated
by SAFT which otherwise wouldn't sell NiCad's to Solectria.
So, OK, it wasn't solectria's volunteer policy, it is SAFT
twisted Solectria's arms and solectrria in turn had to twist
BRUSA's. At least this is my understanding.
Sorry, I tolk to Josef about it more than 2 years ago and don't
remember all the details now. I only know that the only non-configrable
chargers brusa made were per solectria's request and for solectria only.
Victor
Seth Allen wrote:
Victor-
Are you sure this "Stupid Solectria Policy" has nothing to do with the
SAFT NiCad warranty that requires a certain charge profile? And by
extension, Solectria's need to make sure the profile was adhered to? Or
are you quoting Josef Brusa? Because it doesn't sound like his style.
Seth
On Apr 22, 2005, at 12:44 PM, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Tom Hudson wrote:
...
I plugged in the car and the charger won't boot. Checking the pack
voltage, it's sitting at 30 volts, and the Brusa charger needs
something like 50V to boot up.
Tom, it needs only 12V to "boot". It probobly can start charging
if the pack is at near zero volts(I never has such situation, so
didn't try) if programmed taht way.
It's a really stupid design, if you ask me -- It should be able to
use the line voltage to run itself even if the pack is too low.
This is stupid Solectria policy, not the charger design.
Solectria wanted to prevent any problems with users messing with
charger software, so not only made numbers fixed, (50V or whatever)
but also password protected the software so only them can change that
(and of course charge you). BRUSA didn't like that idea at the time,
but unless comply wouldn't get Solectria's business. So since
any issue's with this would really be Solectria's problem, BRUSA
went for it (allow protected software).
So I'm stuck with a situation where I need to somehow get that pack
voltage kicked up to around 50V -- Any suggestions?
1. Isolated bad boy across the pack for couple of hours.
2. Connect couple of small 12V batts in series with main pack to raise
voltage 24V. May be enough to start.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
