EV Digest 4316
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Electric push mower project
by "James A. Eckman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Need help with Curtis 1204 Controller - try a light bulb
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Electric push mower project
by "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) UC Davis Sequoia
by "ohnojoe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Curtis 1204 has almost beaten me.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Curtis 1204
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Curtis 1204 has almost beaten me.
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Old Contactor Controllers, Re: Mechanical PWM Controllers
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Fwd: [BMBB] Norwalk, CT ABB-EV Attempts 300mph May 5 !!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) RE: Contactor controller, Was:RE: Mechanical PWM Controllers
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Curtis 1204 has almost beaten me.
by "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: A patented idea to switch batteries
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Burned plug caused smell in Electravan.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) A few battery charger ideas
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Electric push mower project
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Burned plug caused smell in Electravan.
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: A patented idea to switch batteries
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: pedal generator
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Contactor controller, Was:RE: Mechanical PWM Controllers
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Mechanical PWM Controllers
by John Lussmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Contactor controller, Was:RE: Mechanical PWM Controllers
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Letters to the editor in the San Francisco Chronicle. My rebuttal to the
dope from Pinole.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) TdS Report #16: Team Profile: Self Portraits from Western Washington
University
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
I have purchased and received one of these motors from Surplus Center to use on
a push mower picked up from a neighbor on trash day.The instructions that come
with the motor mention using plastic blade insulators when mounting the blade.
Is this necessary? Also has anyone considered mounting a string trimmer spool
to this motor in place of a blade (sort of like the DR brush cutter). Would
this work?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have you tried a using a light bulb ( say, 100 watts) in place of the motor?
That's just a way to simplify the test, and eliminate the motor as a
possible trouble source. Even with 48 volts, you should see the bulb glow (
and change intensity with pot rotation).
You might hook up the bulb directly to your pack first, to make sure the
glow would be visible.
Phil
From: "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Need help with Curtis 1204 Controller
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 11:03:22 -0700
Stu,
Make sure that the Battery Plus wire is connected to the B+ terminal on
the controller, the Battery Minus wire is connected to the B- terminal
on the controller, and the Motor Minus wire is connected to the M-
terminal on the controller. Measure the voltage at the KSI input to
make sure you are getting at least 8V. The Pot should probably be 0-5K
ohms - above 7K ohms will cause controller shutdown. Make sure that the
Pot has less than 50 ohms in the off position - if your controller is
equipped with the High Pedal Disable feature, the controller will not
start if it sees a throttle input before the KSI input has voltage. You
might have a controller that uses the reverse pot - 5k-0 ohms, in which
case you would need to change the pot anyway.
Good luck,
Patrick
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4/22/05 3:41:37 AM >>>
I am doing something wrong.
This is my first experience with any controller.
It is a Curtis 1204 36-48 VDC 225AMP
I bought it used and when I could not make it work I sent it back to
be
tested.
They tried it in a golf cart and it worked.
Since this is my second 'DOA' from 2 different sources, I am pretty
sure
that it is me that is not working and not the controller.
It seemed simple enough:
Battery plus to Controller plus.
Battery minus to controller minus.
Motor plus to Controller plus.
Motor minus to 2nd Controller minus.
Center of 10k pot to control terminal #2
End of 10k pot to control terminal #3
Battery plus to key terminal #1
I twist the pot one way and then the other, or I set it to 2K ohms.
Nothing!
Is there something that I am missing? A technique or a subtle hint?
Stu
www.stulieberman.com <http://www.stulieberman.com/> photos of $100
homebuilt elevator, recumbent trike, etc.
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Got a model # or link to a photo?
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4/26/05 1:22:09 PM >>>
I have purchased and received one of these motors from Surplus Center
to use on a push mower picked up from a neighbor on trash day.The
instructions that come with the motor mention using plastic blade
insulators when mounting the blade. Is this necessary? Also has anyone
considered mounting a string trimmer spool to this motor in place of a
blade (sort of like the DR brush cutter). Would this work?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There is a very nice article about UC Davis converting/designing a Sequoia
as a hybrid.
http://www.team-fate.net/technicalreports/UCDavis2000TechnicalReport.pdf
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This little imp can cause a lot of trouble. If the pot arm stays on it too
long(this means you are useing it to carry the key voltage) it will give the
pack voltage to the controller when the pot is reading too high and the
safety kicks in. I rebuilt a controller because of this once. Make sure
the switch on the controller clicks (turns on) while the pot ohms are near
0. LR>..............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: Curtis 1204 has almost beaten me.
Looks like he has that jumpered out. That's the safety switch. Normally
it carries the key signal. When the pot is at zero it also switches off
the pack voltage to the controller. LR.......
http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/potbox.shtml
How about that "feature" that won't let the controller turn on if the
pot box is not all the way in the off position?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
First, I must thank everyone for their most generous help.
I will be away for several days and when I return I will attempt to bring
the brick back to life.
Having time to think it through, I believe that the only logical experiment
I have not tried is to consider the controller a 5k-0 type.
I will set the pot to 5k and try it when I return.
The unit came to me, I sent it back, they put it into a golf cart, and they
said that it worked and sent it back.
I live in SE Florida. Anyone close who knows about Curtis controllers?
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 7:37 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Curtis 1204 has almost beaten me.
This little imp can cause a lot of trouble. If the pot arm stays on it too
long(this means you are useing it to carry the key voltage) it will give the
pack voltage to the controller when the pot is reading too high and the
safety kicks in. I rebuilt a controller because of this once. Make sure
the switch on the controller clicks (turns on) while the pot ohms are near
0. LR>...
Wait, wait! Are you saying that you just tickle the #1 terminal with B+ to
start it up and then release the voltage?
I am building a hybrid trike and I am not using anything 'conventional'
except the Curtis controller. The pot is a Radio Shack linear 10 k.
I am attempting to build a leaning hybrid trike. It could easily be
converted into a non-leaning tribrid. Pedal, gas, electric.
See:
http://www.visforvoltage.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=35&t=1772&s=19f59d7fa
142e56e07be0b628e07ca8a
or http://tinyurl.com/92cdc
for some initial parts layout.
BoyntonStu
...........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: Curtis 1204 has almost beaten me.
> Looks like he has that jumpered out. That's the safety switch. Normally
> it carries the key signal. When the pot is at zero it also switches off
> the pack voltage to the controller. LR.......
>> http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/potbox.shtml
>>
>> How about that "feature" that won't let the controller turn on if the
>> pot box is not all the way in the off position?
>>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mike and All,
Could you put some pics of them up
somewhere? I'd be interested in seeing them.
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've always wanted to make an old style (1908)
> controller, but lack the machine shop and time.
> I'd suggest looking at the contact controllers in
> some old books.
> In one book I've got, "Self propelled Vehicles",
> copywrite 1908, they show a couple speed control
> boxes that are big frankestein levers that moves a
> set of contacts through an arc of other contacts.
> This affected the battery switching without the
> contactors(relays), and all the contacts where
> replaceable.
>
> Mad Mike
> Using a Curtis controller out of practicality
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Lee Hart [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 04:51 PM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: Mechanical PWM Controllers
> >
>
> .. snip ...
>
> > I'm better at electrical than mechanical; so if it
> were me and I wanted
> > to save money, I'd copy the design of an older
> successful EV with a
> > contactor controller. If you want to build
> something, build the
> > contactors :-)
> > --
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am confused !
I think they are using old data.
OSU Buckeye Bullet
Has the U.S. record at 314.958 mph
World record at 271.737 mph
and the fast electric vehicle at 321.834 mph
First Electric Car over 300 mph - 308.343 mph
See http://www.buckeyebullet.com/about.asp
Robert Salem
Columbus Ohio
> > From:
> > Ken Graber
> > ken.j.graber@ us.abb.com
> > ABB Inc., Low Voltage Drives
> > 262-780-3873
> >
> > ABB-powered e car Attempts 300mph on May 5!!
> > Wow! -
> > Early morning, May 5, the world will get its first peak at what could be
> the
> > fastest electric vehicle on the face of the earth. Streaking down a
> > straightaway in Nevada, the car, powered solely via the environmentally
> > clean alternative electricity (from a bank of batteries), will attempt to
> > set a new electric vehicle land-speed record (which currently stands at 245
> > mph). The objective is for e=motion to achieve speeds in excess of 300 mph
> > (400 feet per second)! See http://www.abb.com/e=motion
> > Full story below
> >
> > Ken Graber
> > ABB Inc., Low Voltage Drives
> > W: 262-780-3873
> >
> > # # #
> >
> > ABB is the world's largest manufacturer of electric motors and drives.
> >
> > ABB Inc
> > US Head Office
> > 501 Merritt 7
> > Norwalk, CT 06851
> > 203-750-2200 Fax: 203-750-2263
> > http://www.abb.us
> >
> > For Immediate Release
> >
> > ABB-powered electric car attempts to break land speed record in United
> > States
> >
> > (ABB e=motion team confident of success in Nevada on May 5)
> >
> > Norwalk, CT, April 25, 2005. . . A high-speed electrical car, powered by
> ABB
> > motors and drives, will attempt to break the land-speed record for an
> > electrical vehicle on May 5 in Nevada, U.S.
> >
> > The 32-foot (10 meter) long, mustard-yellow ABB e=motion car will try to
> > beat the current official FIA (F�d�ration Internationale d'Automobile)
> > electric land-speed record of 245 mph (394 kph) and become the first-ever
> > electrically powered vehicle to break the 300 mph (483 kph) barrier.
> >
> > The car, whose main sponsor is the global engineering company ABB, will
> make
> > the record attempt on a closed, secured section of paved road near the city
> > of West Wendover, northeastern Nevada.
> >
> > The FIA, the world's leading motor sports ruling body, will monitor and
> > certify the attempt. To qualify as an official land speed record under FIA
> > rules, the car must perform two recorded runs at better than 252 mph over a
> > distance of 0.622 miles (one kilometer).
> >
> > The e=motion car is the brainchild of Britons Mark Newby and Colin Fallows.
> > It has already delivered spectacular acceleration during tests in the U.K.,
> > easily reaching 146 mph (237 kph) in just 1,000 yards (914 meters) - the
> > longest distance available to the team in the U.K. - and unofficially
> > breaking the 139 mph U.K. record for an electric vehicle.
> >
> > "With this sort of performance, we're confident that our car will easily
> > beat the existing electric car land speed record," says Newby.
> >
> > The ABB e=motion car has no mechanical gears ? acceleration is controlled
> > entirely by ABB variable speed drives regulating two 50-horsepower electric
> > motors from ABB. "ABB technology has put this car in the super-speed
> league,
> > and demonstrates our unique ability to meet unusual technology challenges
> > with a pioneering spirit," said Ron Kurtz, ABB U.S. spokesman.
> >
> > The current FIA electric car record is held by the White Lightning team
> from
> > the U.S. Other record attempts have been made, but not under FIA rules.
> >
> > An ABB e=motion attempt to break the record on salt flats of Tunisia in
> 2004
> > was postponed after the surface was deemed unsafe due to unusual weather
> > conditions, but there are no such doubts about the road in Nevada.
> >
> > # # #
> >
> > Further information about the e=motion record attempt, including high-res
> > pictures and additional technical detail, is available on ABB's Web site
> at:
> > http://www.abb.com/e=motion.
> >
> > ABB e=motion: key technical data:
> > An ABB industrial drive and two 50 horsepower AC motors will be used to
> > power ABB e=motion.
> > The motors produce a combined output of more than 500bhp (brake horsepower,
> > i.e. power measured at a vehicle's crankshaft).
> >
> > As a comparison with gasoline-driven cars, the new Chevrolet Corvette
> > launched this year is fitted with a 7.0-litre (427-cubic-inch) V8 engine
> > that produces 500bhp.
> >
> > ABB's system uses a regenerative standard inverter from its ACS800 motor
> > drives line to convert the 600V DC (direct current) output from the car's
> > four packs of 52 lead-acid batteries into AC (alternating current) power
> for
> > the two motors.
> >
> > To prevent overheating during the record attempt, each motor has been
> > adapted to include a forced-ventilation system that is comprised of a
> series
> > of 24-volt DC fans, to help keep the motors below their maximum operating
> > temperature of 180�C (356�F). ABB sensors fitted to each motor winding
> > provide real-time information about motor temperatures and help protect the
> > motors.
> >
> > High torque for immediate acceleration:
> > Fast acceleration is the key to the record attempt. For this reason, ABB's
> > motor/drive system also uses the company's Direct Torque Control drive
> > technology, which provides excellent control of motor torque, with full
> > motor torque available even at zero speed.
> >
> > "Other challengers to the record commonly use gear-driven systems in their
> > cars to achieve the fastest possible acceleration, whereas the technology
> > we've supplied steadily controls torque across the whole speed range," says
> > Frank Griffith, one of the ABB team who helped to develop the car's power
> > system. "Although a geared vehicle can achieve 100 mph in a few seconds,
> its
> > rate of acceleration falls away much more quickly compared to our system;
> > this one will continue to accelerate even past the 300 mph mark, provided
> > sufficient battery power is available."
> >
> > Design challenges in building the car:
> > Newby and Fallows struggled for 18 months to find a company that could
> > supply the equipment needed to power the car, before contacting ABB in
> > November 2002.
> >
> > "Of the companies we originally approached, none could provide either the
> > technology or expertise that justified a world record attempt of this
> > magnitude," said Fallows who designed the car. "We initially approached ABB
> > because we were aware of the company's profile in the world of electrical
> > engineering. Its solution, based on standard industrial motors and drives,
> > proved extremely compact, which was very important as we only had a limited
> > amount of space available in the car."
> >
> > One of the biggest challenges was the need to simulate the vehicle dynamics
> > and performance likely to be experienced during the record attempt without
> > physically testing the car on a track.
> >
> > "Likely performance was modeled and calculated using a set of estimated
> > conditions involving factors such as rolling resistance, drag and battery
> > discharge rate," says Griffith. "Much of this information either did not
> > exist or else had to be extrapolated from data found on the Internet."
> >
> > To help fine-tune the system's performance, ABB used data from the two
> > independent four-channel data loggers incorporated within the drive. "The
> > data loggers enabled us to improve the performance of our system in the
> same
> > way as Formula One teams do with their cars," explains Steve Malpass, a
> > member of the ABB design team. "One of the data loggers was set to a rapid
> > sampling rate of one sample per millisecond to record all the actual events
> > as they happened.
> >
> > "By setting the other logger to a slower rate, we were able to record
> > information on trends that occurred throughout the test runs, which
> provided
> > us with an overall picture of how the car was performing."
> >
> > Environmental benefits:
> > ABB is the world's largest manufacturer of electric motors and drives. They
> > are designed to be environmentally friendly, reducing energy costs for
> > customers and sharply cutting emissions. The company's variable speed AC
> > drives, installed around the world, cut global C02 emissions by an annual
> > total of 68 million tons ? equivalent to the emissions of a country the
> size
> > of Finland. The energy saved is annual equivalent to the output of ten
> > average sized power plants.
> >
> > ABB has a massive installed base of these drives ? more than one million in
> > the past 20 years.
> >
> > Attention news editors:
> >
> > On May 5, the latest information, as well as pictures and video footage of
> > the attempt, will be available on the Web site -
> > http://www.abb.com/e=motion
> >
> > Availability of pictures and footage will depend on the timing of the race
> > and weather conditions. A satellite feed of film footage will be available
> > via APTV.
> >
> > See high-res photos at:
> >
>
http://www.abb.com/global/abbzh/abbzh252.nsf/0/a8e70b800a91682f85256fdd00714a8b?OpenDocument
> >
> > ABB (http://www.abb.com) is a leader in power and automation technologies
> > that enable utility and industry customers to improve performance while
> > lowering environmental impact. The ABB Group of companies operates in
> around
> > 100 countries and employs about 102,000 people. The company's U.S.
> > operations employ nearly 10,000 in manufacturing and other facilities in 30
> > states.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Stu and All,
--- Stu and Jan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Behalf Of Lee Hart
>
> Stu and Jan wrote:
> > Assuming I switch from 0 to: 12, 24, 36, and 48 V,
> is an additional
> > first step with a resistor required for a soft
> start?
>
> Yes. Assume you are using a series DC motor.
>
> In fact, my motor is an Imperial PM motor produced
> for floor scrubbers.
>
> Does a PM motor suck amps at start?
Yes you will need a resistor and they can be had
cheap by using golf cart ones where you can buy 3 on a
board for under $20. You will ned to experiment to
find out just how much resistance you need by
seriesing or paralleling or just one might work.
But instead I'd advise getting a Sevcon or other
similar PM controller that has regen and reverse even
with make you unit much better and you can recharge
your batts if you like while driving of you ICE.
If you go to the kind of contactor controller you
are talking about you will need seperate batt chargers
for each batt to make it work and still you will have
problems.
Lee's style will give you far less charging, batt
problems and only needs 1 charger.
>
> I am building a 200 lb. trike hybrid. A 6.5 hp B&S
> for one rear 12.5"
> scooter wheel and the motor for the other.
>
> It will have a leaning front end with independent
> (foot) steering.
I ride a Honda Gyro that works like that possibly
though with handlebars. It's a cool, good handling
ride and hope someday to build and enclosed, EV
version like the GM Lean Machine.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
>
> BoyntonStu
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Stu,
No, at least 8V must be applied to the #1 terminal (Key Switch Input,
KSI) at all times (that you want the vehicle to run) or the controller
will shut off. The purpose of the KSI is to shut the controller off
when you shut off the key switch, thereby disabling the vehicle.
Patrick
>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4/26/05 5:01:13 PM >>>
-----Original Message-----
Wait, wait! Are you saying that you just tickle the #1 terminal with
B+ to
start it up and then release the voltage?
BoyntonStu
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--- Begin Message ---
This circuit will work, though there are better ones. This one loads the
batteries unequally, so they will discharge unevenly.
I would prefer the traditional series/parallel circuit. It has 9 SPST
contactors instead of the 7 above, but loads all batteries equally so
they all will reach "dead" or "full" at the same time.
--
Using four 12 volt batteries, I cannot see any method of using all batteries
equally at 36 volts.
Thus, the 6 relay circuit (not including the main contactor) seems OK. (you
could balance the odd battery at 12 volts by using the other at 36)
The question then is: Is using 1 battery at startup and 3 at 36 volts with
6 relays
better than using 3 batteries at 36 volts and 9 relays?
The other consideration is the number of poles and positions on the rotary
switch throttle.
Check out this very simple deadmans throttle idea at:
http://www.visforvoltage.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=33&t=1936&s=cb0f8918a
cc84d157e33085e3bc54e2a
http://tinyurl.com/8cfdx
A 3 pole 4 position is required for the 6 relay setup. Perhaps a 7th and a
5th position for a resistor start.
What switch is needed for the series parallel arrangement?
BoyntonStu
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http://home.jps.net/~bassoon/Burnplug/DSC00021.JPG
I found the problem. 20 amp 220v socket and plug. I switched to a
125v/250v 20 amp version. This has more surface area on the plug and
socket. They are both 20 amp but the one with more surface area should run
cooler. How do they get away with downgrading requirements? That plug I
pulled out should be rated for 15 amps. Lawrence Rhodes......
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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When I was planning my 48 volt project, I began thinking about chargers.
Being the frugal person that I am, I was not about to spend $300 for a 48
volt charger.
I came up with 2 ideas and built the second.
#1 Use a 12 volt charger in a 'time share' fashion. You can charge any
multiple of 12 Volt batteries this way.
Assume that you have 4 - 12 Volt batteries in a series string.
Bring out wires from each battery to a clock motor driven 4 dpdt am actuated
microswitch 'manifold'.
If the motor turns at 1 rpm, each battery will charge 15 seconds per minute.
#2 A 'stupid' smart charger.
I found very good quality surplus 30-60 Volt 2 amp power supplies for $6.95
each.
I bought 4 for 8 amps.
I connected them in parallel with a diode output to isolate each.
I can set a different voltage for each unit to decrease the charging voltage
down to a float current level.
Done and in use.
BoyntonStu
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Oh yeah, forgot to mention that. One of the most incredibly dumb
designs I've seen in awhile. The original mower claimed to be double
insulated and thus required only a 2 wire cord. The insulation
depended on the motor being mounted via those rubber vibration
bushings. OK so far. BUT! It also depended on the blade being
electrically insulated from the shaft with a plastic piece (not
included with our motors) and a plastic insulator over the retaining
nut! How dumb is that?
I replaced that little stub of a power cord on mine with a
conventional 3 wire grounded cord and will run a separate ground wire
to the mower after I get it assembled.
One other thing. You've probably noticed that when you turn the
switch off the motor stops instantly. Probably to satisfy some
federal safety nazi. The problem is, the way they do that is to
literally short the motor. On mine a big ball of fire literally rolls
out from under the brush and out the vent port. With the blade's
momentum factored in it must brutalize the motor and gears.
Fortunately this is easy to defeat. Take the switch pod apart. The
motor's armature and field connections are brought up to the switch
individually via the 4 conductor cord. On the switch you will see a
short red jumper wire across two of the switch's poles. One end of
the red wire is crimped under the same spade connector as one of the
incoming wires, I think the white one if I recall. Simply lift that
2-wired connector from the switch and bend it back out of the way. It
can be bent back so the pod housing will hold it in place when
re-assembled.
I'm going to run mine initially with no braking. If the blade coasts
too long (I don't think it will) then I'll rig a suitable resistor
inside the pod to produce a more reasonable braking action.
John
On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 16:22:09 -0400, "James A. Eckman"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>I have purchased and received one of these motors from Surplus Center to use
>on a push mower picked up from a neighbor on trash day.The instructions that
>come with the motor mention using plastic blade insulators when mounting the
>blade. Is this necessary? Also has anyone considered mounting a string trimmer
>spool to this motor in place of a blade (sort of like the DR brush cutter).
>Would this work?
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 18:41:09 -0700, "Lawrence Rhodes"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>http://home.jps.net/~bassoon/Burnplug/DSC00021.JPG
>I found the problem. 20 amp 220v socket and plug. I switched to a
>125v/250v 20 amp version. This has more surface area on the plug and
>socket. They are both 20 amp but the one with more surface area should run
>cooler. How do they get away with downgrading requirements? That plug I
>pulled out should be rated for 15 amps. Lawrence Rhodes......
How do they get away with it? Easy. They just pay. UL has become
little more than a useless money sucking bureaucracy where one pays a
ransom fee to get the little stickers. That connector is an example.
Cheap chicom outlet strips with brass foil for interconnects are
another example. It's horrible in the sign industry. You pay a
couple thousand bux a year to become a "UL approved sign shop". A UL
inspector drops by about once a year for a cup of coffee and a check.
You get to apply a UL sticker to your signs. In most areas, that
little UL sticker means the electrical inspector doesn't look at your
work. Little more than a formalization of the traditional
under-the-counter payoff system to get the inspector to leave you
alone.
I've been down that same road with that style connector. Most of my
concessions and catering equipment is 240 volt powered. I burnt out
many a connector pair before punting to the L14-30 4 pole twist-lock
connector. This is the twist-lock connector used on 120/240 volt out
generators and is ubiquitous. The connectors are rather expensive -
about $20 for a male at Home Depot - but it's a one-time expense. An
additional benefit is that the cord can't pull loose.
All my equipment is now equipped with twist-locks. I carry around a
little kit of homemade adapter pigtails in case I have to connect to
your type connector, a range or dryer outlet and even a set of 'gator
clips in case I have to open a breaker box and clip to the busses.
John
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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Stu or Jan wrote:
> Using four 12 volt batteries, I cannot see any method of using all
> batteries equally at 36 volts.
I am emailing you a post I posted on the EV list back in 2000 describing
a 12v/24v/36v/48v rectactor (rectifier-contactor) controller.
You can get 36v with two 12v in parallel, and the other two 12v in
series with this. The two parallelled batteries deliver half the
current, but will re-balance themselves when you select one of the
fully-balanced steps (12v, 24v, or 48v). As a practical matter, you
usually don't bother with a 36v step.
> The question then is: Is using 1 battery at startup and 3 at 36
> volts with 6 relays better than using 3 batteries at 36 volts and
> 9 relays?
Each has its advantages. The rectactor replaces 6 of the contactors with
diodes, so you only need 3 contactors. Or, you can use multi-pole
contactors. In each case, they are usually wired so it is impossible to
close two switches at once so as to short a battery.
> The other consideration is the number of poles and positions on
> the rotary switch throttle.
There are also many ways to handle this. Usually it is a cam with
several microswitches riding on them.
--
If you would not be forgotten
When your body's dead and rotten
Then write of great deeds worth the reading
Or do the great deeds worth repeating
-- Ben Franklin, Poor Richard's Almanac
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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http://homepages.enterprise.net/hugh0piggott/nirvana/index.htm is a page
about fabricating a 4 kW generator that runs at 200 RPM. You might try a
smaller implementation of the same design.
Southwest wind power makes a 400 watt wind generator. The manual is at
http://www.windenergy.com/AIR_X_Land_Owners_Manual.pdf. The exploded view on
page 31 gives a good view of the components.
These are two designs that bracket your power requirement. There are others
in between but I don't have references.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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From: "keith vansickle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 4:53 AM
Subject: Re: pedal generator
> They make brushless windmill alternators that are
> > even lighter
>
> I have looked for these but cannot seem to find one
> that fits the bill please direct me to the appropiate
> web site if you know of one
>
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Look for a golf kart resistor pack from something like an old Taylor Dunn
Teebird. They also have a nice "sparkomatic" wiper type speed control, you
might be able to pick up something cheap off a dead kart. Look for the ones
with the diamond plate bodies. Thats were I found mine. I was even able to
get replacement bars for the speed control at a golf kart shop. David
Chapman.
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From: "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 6:34 AM
Subject: FW: Contactor controller, Was:RE: Mechanical PWM Controllers
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stu or Jan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 8:37 AM
> To: '[email protected]'
> Subject: RE: Contactor controller, Was:RE: Mechanical PWM Controllers
>
>
> James,
> But you could use
> 12V+resistor as first step (instead of a higher voltage as in the previous
> example), which would significantly reduce the power dissapation of the
> resistor.
>
> Do you know how to fabricate a resistor for experimentation?
>
> (Or where to purchase them?)
>
> A 1 ohm resistor at 12 Volts would allow 12 Amps (assuming zero at motor
and
> wires). I wonder if 144 Watts would get 400 pounds moving?
>
>
>
> This may be a solution:
>
> >From Ebay
>
> Designed as a surge or ballast resistor, this unit consists of 3
independent
> 1 Ohm wirewound resistors wound on a substantial ceramic plate with screw
> type connection terminals. We estimate the wattage rating to be about 300
> Watts. Probably meant for use with 3 phase motor starting systems to limit
> surge current, the resistor has many other uses. Wiring the 3 resistors in
> series would give you 3 Ohms or 0.3 Ohms if all wired in parallel. Use as
> dummy load for testing batteries, power supplies, amplifiers etc. With
> single resistors of this power rating costing around �18.00 each! This
could
> be the time to pick up a bargain.
>
>
> BoyntonStu
>
>
>
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At 07:23 AM 4/26/2005, you wrote:
mind you, these are merly mind games at the moment. I did buy some 5/8 x
1-3/16 brushes to play with, but finding a comm bar setup that is not lots
of narrow bars, is a chalenge.
What's wrong with narrow bars? Just connect them in parallel to make a
bigger bar.
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: Contactor controller, Was:RE: Mechanical PWM Controllers
> Stu or Jan wrote:
> > Do you know how to fabricate a resistor for experimentation?
I forgot to mention, you can usually find nice nichrome packs in the
electric resistance heaters out of old houshold AC installations. There is a
company near me that is in the HVAC business and they always seem to have a
unit or two on the scrap heap. Found coiled nichrome as well as flat strip.
Free for the asking. David Chapman.
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Editor -- I hate to short-circuit your breathless -- and mindless -- piece
on electric cars, but it left out several important facts. Electric cars
require electricity and, because the nation's power generation resources are
now at or near maximum, widespread use of electric cars will require new
power stations. Solar power won't do it. People who blindly wrap their
organic arms around electric cars are the same dopes who oppose any new
power plants - - nuclear, coal or hydroelectric.
And just wait until the electro-fanatics find out that they have to buy new
$3,000 batteries every year or so.
Electricity doesn't grow on trees.
ALEXANDER JASON
Pinole
I have to dissagree with Alexander Jason (who doesn't have the spine to use
his real name) conserning electric vehicles. His kind of fear is just what
the car companies want the general public to think. The truth is that
electricity does grow on trees at night. Surplus hydroelectric goes unused
at night. Right now with no additional infrastructure 1 million electric
cars could be added to the grid in California. That means no extra power
plants. As far as batteries go yes they do need to be replaced after time.
Not every year unless they were abused. They need to be watered and
charged. Some just charged. If NiCad is used life of 25 to 50 years is
normal. This is with thousands of charges and discharges. I am not
mindless. I have considered exactly what I need and how to do it. My
battery pack for a small pickup truck cost 1200 dollars. It weighs 1400
pounds so it is not a small pack. It will cost me 2 cents per mile to run
the truck. It should last 5 years. Divide 1200 by 5. Add the miles at 2
cents. (25,000 to 50,000 miles) Compare to the cost of a gasoline car of
the same class. You will find the electric is less expensive even with the
battery replacement every 5 years. I also have no tuneups, oil changes,
radiator fluid, air filters etc... The electric vehicle avoids many of the
costs associated with the internal combustion engine. As far as solar goes
the system on my roof makes enough energy to charge my vehicle and run my
house. I am no dope. I am saving money and doing a good thing for the
environment. Futhermore by converting an internal combustion motored car to
electric is the highest form of recycling. A new car is produced(the body
of a car can go a million miles with little maintanance)because you lose the
parts that cost the most and require the most maintanance. With the
internal combustion parts gone a reliable electric motor and batteries
replace it. Dependability goes up and cost goes down. An electric motor
should last a million miles. After that bearing replacement and
brush(unless it is brushless) replacement are the only maintanance. This is
why the auto makers don't want us having electric cars. They did their
experiments and found out the truth and ran as far from electric vehicles as
possible crushing many of these wonderful vehicles trying to erase any
memory of them.
Lawrence Rhodes/Musician
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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TdS Report #16: Team Profile: Self Portraits from Western Washington University
Why do people enter the Tour de Sol? If I ask a dozen entrants and I usually
get fifteen answers.
Members of Western Washington University's Hybrid Club and Team Members
submitted these self-portraits. Their two entries are:
Viking 32 -- CNG Electric Hybrid
Viking 23 -- Bio-diesel Electric Hybrid
"I have learned a great deal of the problem this country is facing now and will
soon be facing without the availability of fossil fuels. I am extremely
excited to be able to get involved in a program that could soon help solve this
problem or at least slow it down with the hybrid concept now moving stronger
than ever. I feel very grateful to have such an opportunity to get involved
with such a remarkable program that is the Tour de Sol."
Sean Aylward, VRI Hybrid Club, WWU
"I have been a part of the VRI for almost three years now and I see my going to
the Tour de Sol as the result of my hard work. I've only been apart of the
Hybrid team for a quarter, but I really feel like an important component of the
team. The thing I hope to accomplish in the Tour de Sol is to help the team
and make sure that our cars perform well and succeed. I have no idea what to
expect at this event because I have never done anything like it, but I am
looking forward to a great experience and great challenge."
Emily Morris
"To be a part of something big is hard to come by now days, but being a part of
the team that is saving the earth is definitely worth investing some time into.
As a kid growing up mesmerized by cars, I had to take advantage of the great
opportunity that was right in front of me. Not only do I get to develop my
skills as a designer and builder, I also get to protect our environment by
reducing pollution and saving energy. Change in society doesn't happen
overnight and to me hybrids are a bridge between the current internal
combustion cars and the clean energy cars of the future. I hope that in the
future I can look back on these days and say `I was on the forefront of the
hybrid revolution.'"
Calvin Liu
"When I joined the VRI I never thought I would soon be traveling to New York to
be in a national green energy competition. I chose to work on the hybrid team
because I know that is where the market will be in the future and what better
time to get started in it now and learn the technology? It is really amazing
that although we are not a sports team traveling to compete against other
schools that we still have a similar opportunity. There are other schools
involved in the competition whom we can learn from, and we are all taking steps
to making a worldwide impact; that is what this is all about. A positive
experience for everyone."
Kate Stenson
"I am involved with the hybrid club because I have been a car dork all my life,
but at the same time I realize how major an impact automobiles have on the
environment. As an avid outdoors lover I feel compelled to combine my two
passions and work for the greater good of both the automotive industry and our
natural surroundings. I really enjoy being able to apply my engineering skills
in a socially responsible way. I am really excited to meet kindred souls and
see all of the other projects that are being produced throughout the industry."
Ryan Cruse
- - - -
The complete set of Tour de Sol Reports for 2005 can be found at:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005
The complete set of past Tour de Sol Reports can be found at:
http://www.FovealSystems.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
- - - -
The above is Copyright 2005 by Michael H. Bianchi.
Permission to copy is granted provided the entire article is presented
without modification and this notice remains attached.
For other arrangements, contact me at +1-973-822-2085 .
- - - -
For more on the NESEA Tour de Sol, see the web page at
http://www.TourdeSol.org
- - - -
Official NESEA Tour de Sol information is available from the sponsor,
the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association (NESEA) at
413 774-6051 , and 50 Miles Street, Greenfield, MA 01301 , and
[EMAIL PROTECTED] . All media enquiries should be addressed to ...
Jack Groh
Tour de Sol Communications Director
P.O. Box 6044
Warwick, RI 02887-6044
401 732-1551
401 732-0547 fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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