EV Digest 4377
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: You need a welder (Playing the Kazoo)
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: You need a welder
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: You need a welder (Weld or braze?)
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: You need a welder (Weld or braze?)
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: You need a welder (Weld or braze?)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: You need a welder (was: Cable crimping)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: You need a welder (Playing the Kazoo)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: You need a welder
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: You need a welder (was: Cable crimping)
by "Kevin Coughlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: You need a welder
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: You need a welder
by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: You need a welder
by "darren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: You need a welder
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: You need a welder
by "darren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: 2005 Power of DC June 11th
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Renault leopard motor upgrade questions
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Frizzled Controller Autopsy <Help Needed>
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Re: You need a welder
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: 2005 Power of DC June 11th
by "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: You need a welder
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Frizzled Controller Autopsy <Help Needed>
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: You need a welder (On the cheap)
by "Stu and Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: You need a welder (was: Cable crimping)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Where is the best buy on ADC motors?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Smart cars
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: General Radio Type W20H 220v dual variac on one shaft. What can this
baby do
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: New battery question
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I stand by my objections to your statements. To say that doing a
conversion without owning welding equipment and doing your own welding is
difficult is completely untrue, AND it will discourage a lot of people from
building conversions. A lot of people DO NOT WANT to learn how to weld. I
hear from them every day in the email.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So, interesting discussion, I could be wrong but a MIG also requires a
220v circuit... don't have one of those either, all my heavy appliances
run on natural gas....
I have been a EV owner and "upgrader" for 5-6 years and have never
needed to weld anything. I prefer rivets for most jobs. Never needed
to build a battery box and wouldn't want to try aluminum welding as a
one time project. I am a passable Oxy/Acetylene welder when I need to
be... so far not on my EV, and I would have to rent the equipment in
any case. By the way, you can build a great, strong box with just rivets.
Frankly, I would love to own a MIG, but $$$ are an obstacle, so a hammer
crimper has been ordered and I'll use the suggestions and my vise to
drive it.
--Tony
----- Original Message ----- From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 11:27 PM
Subject: You need a welder (was: Cable crimping)
MIG welding is ridiculously simple to do. Can you use a hot
glue gun without burning yourself? If so, you can MIG weld. Folks act
like welding is some mystical black art, and only the "anointed ones"
that have the elusive "welding genes" are allowed to operate the
sacred welding equipment.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rau,
First let me say that ego is not a problem. I want to learn the facts and
will gladly give up incorrect notions for more accurate concepts.
That said, here are a few comments found on Google:
Welding melts the base material of the joined tubes so that they merge
together.
Both are strong when well done. Both are subject to failure when
poorly done. Lugged frames can have two problems: brazing temps too
high or braze materials not flowing fully into the lug.
Welding can overheat heat-treated tubing, and can anneal the steel
which lowers it's strength. Annealing is when the metal is made so hot
that the grain resulting from cold-working the metal (which makes it
stronger) is relaxed. All welds are annealed to some extent, and the
thickness of the bead has to make up for it.
Fillet-brazed frames are said to be the strongest of all. They are
just like lugless bikes, but without the lugs.
Brazing is a process that uses a filler metal, be it a brass alloy, a
silver alloy, a nickel alloy or whatever, and a material that protects
the materials being heated (flux if the work is being done in air, a
vacuum or an atmosphere furnace). The advantage of brazing is that
dissimilar materials can be joined together given the proper selection
of the brazing alloy (one that will 'wet' both materials to be joined).
Soldering is a very low temperature process that typically uses alloy
families featuring tin, lead, bismuth, etc. Soldering is characterized
by melt and flow temperatures of 800 degrees Fahrenheit or lower.
Brazing typically occurs at temperatures in excess of 1200 degrees, a
bit higher these days in that the Cadmium that was used in silver/copper
alloys as a temperature depressant is largely passe due to occupational
health concerns. Fahrenheit, give or take. The materials to be joined
are not melted in brazing as they are in welding. The success of
brazing is dependent on having clean materials to be joined, PROPER
JOINT DESIGN, enough of the proper flux and someone who knows what
they're doing. Joint strength in brazing can and should run in the
range of tensile strengths of 35,000 to well over 100,000 psi. It isn't
uncommon that in a failure mode the components being joined will fail
before the brazed joint does. Examples of brazing applications that
might, I stress might, set your mind at ease would be the vanes in jet
aircraft engines. Brazed. The other comments here about the cosmetic
appeal of brazed joints are true. As to the cost of the 'silver'
alloys, true, they might run more than a brass type alloy but when one
considers the additional energy needed to heat to the higher
temperatures needed by the brass type alloys (which most manufacturers
don't do) it'd be pretty close to a push). Then again I've watched
bicycles being supposedly 'brazed' in Taiwan and the absence of flux
didn't seem to bother them one bit... (When you don't use or exhaust
the flux protecting the joint what happens is that surface oxides form
and while you might join two oxide surfaces together with the brazing
filler metal it ain't a gonna last too very long when it goes into
service
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, I drove it on 96V and 102V for 5 years. Of course, I'm replacing
the motor now, but that seems to be unusual. Many, many prestolite
48v's are run at 84v, 96v and even 120v- though that's pushing it pretty
hard.
Tony
"Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
Phil Sobolik wrote:
Does this mean that I can just add batteries to my stock Leopard and
maybe get up some of these Massachusetts hills at faster than 20 MPH?
It looks like you're putting 102V into a 48V motor. Or is the
controller stepping it down to 48V?
Phil Sobolik
At 08:09 PM 5/20/2005 -0700, you wrote:
Thanks Jerry,
Existing motor burned up and I have long, long ago taken this
Leopard far away from stock. The only things left that are stock
are the rear brakes and running gear, the transmission and the basic
body.
The front seats are soon to be replaced with something more
comfortable, the body has been tweaked, the dash is aluminum (ala
racing style) and all the guages replaced with all electronic stuff,
the old contactor controller and 48 volt arrangement and Lester
transformer style charger was gone within a few months after I
bought it..(years ago). It's 102V, PFC20, Curtis 1231, SurePower
DC/DC, Dakota Digital Speedo, E-Meter, stereo... you get the picture,
if not, here's the link to it.... :-)
www.notebene.net/ev/lektron.html
Tony
jerry dycus wrote:
Hi Tony and All,
Why are you changing the motor? It's not really
worth it and the EV works very well just as it is
other than doing a better battery hold down system,
new batt charger. Save the original parts to restore
it to stock in the future.
<snip>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 06:48 PM 21/05/05 -0700, Richard Rau wrote:
Stu,
There is more to it than an equation.
More to it than either of you have discussed, the reason to not braze weld
is that you cannot rely on a brazed weld in a structural application. It
would be ... embarrasing... to have your EV drop its batteries or motor
onto the road through a failed welded joint (regardless of type).
I get all of my technical employees to learn rudimentary welding, since all
of them at one time or other need to test welding equipment (one of the
things we fix).
Without doubt, MIG is the easiest to get a good joint for a beginner. With
good cleaning of the surface, turning the job so that the weld is a
horizontal filling weld, it is almost impossible to not get a good joint
(apart from getting the machine settings *way* off). Stick welding has a
propensity for beginners to lay a great weld along one side of the join
(weld pool into only one part) whilst the flux pool makes it look like a
good join - until it is chipped off!
TIG is the cleanest form of electric arc welding, and good for teaching
patience, since it is slower and more of an art than MIG.
MIG is probably the lowest heating form of welding, and thus parts can be
welded with lower thermal de-formation.
I MIG'ed together the box that will be under the tray (when I get around to
building the tray) that houses almost everything. Batteries, charger, vac
pump etc. Since it is mostly thin sheetmetal, I got a fair amount of
deformation in various places, but none of those matter.
I'll have to get some 'photos and description on-line one of these months.
I'm not going to put it in the EVDL photo album until it is close to finished.
James
'78 Daihatsu 1300kg GVM, cab/chassis truck in progress.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 07:48 PM 5/21/2005, you wrote:
Stu,
There is more to it than an equation. Even though you are right about the
heat required to melt the respective filler metals, there is another big
factor that comes into play. No matter what the thickness of the base metal
that you want to join, if you compare the total Btu's put into the structure
during the heating cycle, you will be putting in more during the brazing
process.
Instead of carefully clamping a bracket in place, I have held a
two inch by one inch bracket with my bare fingers while tacking it into
place with my MIG welder. No big deal.
Care to try this while brazing?
The heat-affected zone surrounding the weld is smallest with MIG
welding. Every other type of welding heats up the surrounding metal more.
That is why the auto insurance companies REQUIRE that MIG be used to repair
uni-body cars.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No, it's not ridiculously simple to do. Yes, a beginner can learn to
make a bead in under an hour. Wit persistence and practice and
study, that beginner can be a tolerably good welder after an additional
100 hours. There are a lot of skills to learn; how to set up the welding
machine and control the arc,
There are two (2) knobs on a MIG welder, power and wire speed. Set
the power for the thickness of the metal. Set the wire speed so the welder
sounds like frying eggs. Wow, this is really difficult stuff.
how to inspect and test weld joints, how to make the various joints in the
various positions, how to repair weld defects, etc. A good welder
should also have some mastery of welded structures design.
"Yes Grasshopper. When you can snatch the pebble from my hand, you
will be ready leave the sacred temple and begin your journey to discover
the outside world."
Please. Give me a break. The next thing you will say is that a
person should first get a degree in electrical engineering before
attempting to convert a car.
We aren't welding the Inconel high-pressure liquid hydrogen intake
on the shuttle main engines. We are welding battery racks for a street car.
Welding as you say isn't some mystical black art. It's a set of skills
that almost anyone can acquire with patience, persistence and practice.
But, it takes much, much longer than an hour.
You can be good enough to MIG weld battery racks with about an
hour of instruction.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 07:24 PM 5/21/2005, you wrote:
I stand by my objections to your statements. To say that doing a
conversion without owning welding equipment and doing your own welding is
difficult is completely untrue, AND it will discourage a lot of people
from building conversions. A lot of people DO NOT WANT to learn how to
weld. I hear from them every day in the email.
And that is why folks pay extra to buy a kit from you. They could
save quite a bit of money if they shopped around and bought the components
separately and then welded the battery racks and motor mounts themselves.
In fact, they could easily buy a MIG welder with the money they save. They
could then sell the MIG welder when they were done!
I said that doing your own welding is EASY, not difficult. I said
it was expensive to have someone else do the welding for you. It is. You
know that it is because that is where you make your money. If folks were to
discover that MIG welding was easy, it would put a dent in your sales,
wouldn't it?
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Frankly, I would love to own a MIG, but $$$ are an obstacle,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=55236
This $379 unit will do everything you need for a conversion. Add
the C-25 mix bottle and you are ready to MIG weld. You can run flux-core
without buying the gas bottle. (It is a little bit harder to master
flux-core welding, but not a lot harder.)
I built the Wabbit and put a turbo-charged Subaru engine in a Ghia
using a less expensive MIG welder than the one above.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I use two 12 volt batteries, and a spool gun (with .030 flux core wire) I
got from ebay for 25 bucks. Actually, it works very well to tack things
together. I may change over to a beefier pack, and do bigger work. (I tack
with the spool gun, then stick weld up the bigger stuff, or just spool the
heavy sheet metal).
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Neon John
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 11:21 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: You need a welder (was: Cable crimping)
yeah, batteries make a good welding power source. Adding a series inductor
makes the arc much smoother and less likely to stick. 50 to
75 turns of heavy wire around a 3" core, iron is optional, helps a lot. I
use old motor stators as a torodial inductor core. One can get 20-30 turns
of #4 or even #2 wire with thin insulation (THHN, for
example) in the core.
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.14 - Release Date: 5/20/2005
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don't know about you, but $375 is a ton of money to me.
Thanks for the info, though.
Tony
"Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Frankly, I would love to own a MIG, but $$$ are an obstacle,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=55236
This $379 unit will do everything you need for a conversion.
Add the C-25 mix bottle and you are ready to MIG weld. You can run
flux-core without buying the gas bottle. (It is a little bit harder to
master flux-core welding, but not a lot harder.)
I built the Wabbit and put a turbo-charged Subaru engine in a
Ghia using a less expensive MIG welder than the one above.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tony,
After reading that you are considering using your vise to supply the force
for crimping, I thought I should throw in my .02
The amount of force that a vise can give varies widely by brand, size, and
condition. I'd only trust it if you have a large heavy duty version. A
roller bearing thrust on the lead screw is helpful too. Or maybe just the
force of a BFH on the vise handle. (did I say that?) Remember, it takes a
lot of push from vise jaws to equal the impact force from hammer blows
directly to the crimper anvil.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tony McCormick
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 8:28 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: You need a welder
So, interesting discussion, I could be wrong but a MIG also requires a
220v circuit... don't have one of those either, all my heavy appliances
run on natural gas....
I have been a EV owner and "upgrader" for 5-6 years and have never
needed to weld anything. I prefer rivets for most jobs. Never needed
to build a battery box and wouldn't want to try aluminum welding as a
one time project. I am a passable Oxy/Acetylene welder when I need to
be... so far not on my EV, and I would have to rent the equipment in
any case. By the way, you can build a great, strong box with just rivets.
Frankly, I would love to own a MIG, but $$$ are an obstacle, so a hammer
crimper has been ordered and I'll use the suggestions and my vise to
drive it.
--Tony
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 11:27 PM
> Subject: You need a welder (was: Cable crimping)
>
>
>>
>> MIG welding is ridiculously simple to do. Can you use a hot
>> glue gun without burning yourself? If so, you can MIG weld. Folks act
>> like welding is some mystical black art, and only the "anointed ones"
>> that have the elusive "welding genes" are allowed to operate the
>> sacred welding equipment.
>>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
really? You can't aford a hobbie if $400 in tools is too high, lol
Thank You
................................
www.12voltguy.com
SeaBass44/~Darren
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony McCormick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: You need a welder
Don't know about you, but $375 is a ton of money to me.
Thanks for the info, though.
Tony
"Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Frankly, I would love to own a MIG, but $$$ are an obstacle,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=55236
This $379 unit will do everything you need for a conversion.
Add the C-25 mix bottle and you are ready to MIG weld. You can run
flux-core without buying the gas bottle. (It is a little bit harder to
master flux-core welding, but not a lot harder.)
I built the Wabbit and put a turbo-charged Subaru engine in a
Ghia using a less expensive MIG welder than the one above.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a MIG welder, it is a Hobart Manhandler 135 and it is a 120VAC welder. I
can weld up to 1/4" with good structural results.
Rush
> So, interesting discussion, I could be wrong but a MIG also requires a
> 220v circuit... don't have one of those either, all my heavy appliances
> run on natural gas....
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
same here, great welder:-) got to zap a bead today, even though it was only
to fix chuck handle for my 12" x 36" metal lathe, worked better the glue,
lol
Thank You
................................
www.12voltguy.com
SeaBass44/~Darren
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: You need a welder
I have a MIG welder, it is a Hobart Manhandler 135 and it is a 120VAC
welder. I can weld up to 1/4" with good structural results.
Rush
So, interesting discussion, I could be wrong but a MIG also requires a
220v circuit... don't have one of those either, all my heavy appliances
run on natural gas....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tim Humphrey wrote:
> You know, I'm a real big fan of John Wayland! So I was thinking
> about showing up Saturday morning with a truck full of parts,
> and with a little help from my friends, leaving Saturday night
> with a record setting EV.
It would be fun to bring a collection of parts, and build a one-day
wonder EV. We do this in our BEST group every year, as a training
exercise for new participants in the program. It's kind of like Junkyard
Challenge (aka Junkyard Wars). We could have a challenge to build the
fastest drag racer EV out of the parts available within a limited time
frame.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Lee! your are always a great source of good advise.
Tony
"Welcome to the dawn of a new error"
http://www.notebene.net/philosophy.html
Lee Hart wrote:
Tony McCormick wrote:
The flywheel still has the teeth for the starter and I was wondering
if it would be a good idea to lighten it up by removing them.
On my Lectric Leopard, I had the flywheel turned down to remove the ring
gear and about 1/2" around the outside. Basically, it was turned down
almost to the ring of bolts that mount the pressure plate.
Or, even better, is the fly wheel is really needed at all in a EV,
the new ADC 8" is heavyer and I'm looking for places to lighten
things up.
Mine shifts adequately without using the clutch, so it would be
possible. But, I didn't trust the French engineers -- I was afraid of
having synchronizer troubles and needing a new tranaxle for a
25-year-old car that's no longer imported. So, I kept the clutch even
though I rarely use it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do you have a datasheet or replacement info for these diodes? Motorola CR4180R
(TO-220 package)
All (12?) diodes are blown apart inside my Curtis 1231C controller (some or all
of the 35 mosfets are blown too, BUZ30A. But these are readily available.)
Diodes are located along both sides of the heatsink spaced every 3rd or 4th
mosfet.
Motorola CR4180R
What are these, free-wheeling diodes?
More importantly, where can I get replacements? I can not find ANY INFO on
these. Possibly a custom? Or obsolete?
Thanks!
Rick Barnes
Aloha, OR
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 5/21/05 9:12:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<<
>
>Frankly, I would love to own a MIG, but $$$ are an obstacle,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=55236
This $379 unit will do everything you need for a conversion. Add
the C-25 mix bottle and you are ready to MIG weld. You can run flux-core
without buying the gas bottle. (It is a little bit harder to master
flux-core welding, but not a lot harder.)
>>Bill
and others on the list I would recommend any of these CHEAP 110 volt mig
welders from harbor freight. I receive multiple calls on these each week and
refuse
to repair them because they always come back broken again.
Generally the dioeds short
out due to operator error (inexperienced operators short the tip to ground or
exceed the duty cycle)
They also make mig welding more difficult due to
the lack of a capacitor (for filling the ac ripple) and contactor (tip is
always hot)
Most of these units have a max 70 amp output at a 5% to
10% duty cycle (welders are rated in 10 minute periods).
Also these units do not have gas solenoids making nice welds more difficult,
and aluminum welding impossible.
I would suggest
the Miller brand, Hobart brand (made by Miller) or the Lincoln 110 volt units.
They all have 20% duty cycle, gas solenoids and either mechanical or electronic
contactors.The ones with contactors and transformer taps are the least
expensive up front and cheapest to repair out of warranty. Average price $575.
+
bottle of gas.
Also if you are
welding steel with these smaller welders use pure CO2, you will get more
penetration per watt used.
C25 gas will give better
astetics and less cleanup but less penetration per watt.<<
I built the Wabbit and put a turbo-charged Subaru engine in a Ghia
using a less expensive MIG welder than the one above.
>>
I am happy I do not follow your vehicle being welded with less than 70 amps
and 16 volts as this is the max outputs of these cheap China made welders.<<
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)= >>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Dennis!
Thanks for helping to get racers out to the event. I spoke with Shawn
Lawless last week and he mentioned you had considered coming out but you
have another race that day. So thanks for entertaining the thought!!
I for one would love to see two or more dragsters come out to the race and
with NBC TV coming out this would be great publicity for the EV drag racing
movement.
NetGain came out to the first race we had. Then Orange Juice came three
years ago, last year and now this year. But we've never had both at the same
time. It would be awesome to see them both at the same time.
I did talk to Kevin Zak about three weeks ago about coming out. He mentioned
he needed new batteries.
I'll call him again.
On another note when I was down at the EV Challenge Ralph Goodwin mentioned
he may bring up the EV Challenge Classroom, which includes their electric
Triumph Spitfire. This would be a great addition to the event.
Regards,
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Power of DC
http://www.powerofdc.com
http://www.nedra.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: 2005 Power of DC June 11th
> I for one would sure like to see the netgain/warp motor car run.It has
been
> voted the best enginered dragster at the world of wheels show for many
years.I
> have read in the national dragster publication that its the quickest full
size
> electric dragster in the world. Come on Netgain ITS time to prove your
> WARP motors. Go to the Power of Dc race.You have had YEARS to prove it.
> Dennis Berube The only ev with 75+ 8 second NHRA time slips
>
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At 08:27 PM 5/21/2005, Tony McCormick wrote:
So, interesting discussion, I could be wrong but a MIG also requires a
220v circuit... don't have one of those either, all my heavy appliances
run on natural gas....
Flux and/or MIG welders are available that run on 120v power.
units like this are available for $175. Not something for a pro doing full
time work, but perfectly adequate for a hobbyist.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
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You could try something like this;
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FE%2FFES16DTR.pdf
I have some other parts that are a direct replacement
# but never received samples from the vendor (which I
think was Microsemi).
The part linked above is only 16A, I think the CR4180
is rated at higher current (although I don't know its
forward voltage drop or junction to case heat
transfer).
The biggest problem in finding a replacement part is
the cathode and anode are backwards when you compare
it to mainstream ultrafast diodes in TO-220 packages.
The part listed above does have the 'R' or reverse
option for the cathode-anode connections.
Good luck
Rod
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Do you have a datasheet or replacement info for
> these diodes? Motorola CR4180R (TO-220 package)
>
> All (12?) diodes are blown apart inside my Curtis
> 1231C controller (some or all of the 35 mosfets are
> blown too, BUZ30A. But these are readily available.)
>
> Diodes are located along both sides of the heatsink
> spaced every 3rd or 4th mosfet.
>
> Motorola CR4180R
>
> What are these, free-wheeling diodes?
>
> More importantly, where can I get replacements? I
> can not find ANY INFO on these. Possibly a custom?
> Or obsolete?
>
> Thanks!
> Rick Barnes
> Aloha, OR
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Buy a set of Oxy/Acet welding outfit from HF or on Ebay ~ $100
Buy a small Oxygen tank from your local gas supplier ~ $70
(If you are lucky find a used 5 LPM @ 9PSI respiratory Oxygen generator for
about $100, [$200 is more realistic]).
Use your already owned BB tank or buy a standard BBQ propane tank ~ $30
Buy a pound of 1/8" Dia fluxed brazing rod ~ $10 HF.
You will be able to braze, not weld. You will also be able to solder any
lug size.
BoyntonStu
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 10:26 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: You need a welder
In a message dated 5/21/05 9:12:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<<
>
>Frankly, I would love to own a MIG, but $$$ are an obstacle,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=55236
This $379 unit will do everything you need for a conversion. Add
the C-25 mix bottle and you are ready to MIG weld. You can run flux-core
without buying the gas bottle. (It is a little bit harder to master
flux-core welding, but not a lot harder.)
>>Bill
and others on the list I would recommend any of these CHEAP 110 volt mig
welders from harbor freight. I receive multiple calls on these each week and
refuse
to repair them because they always come back broken again.
Generally the dioeds short
out due to operator error (inexperienced operators short the tip to ground
or
exceed the duty cycle)
They also make mig welding more difficult due to
the lack of a capacitor (for filling the ac ripple) and contactor (tip is
always hot)
Most of these units have a max 70 amp output at a 5% to
10% duty cycle (welders are rated in 10 minute periods).
Also these units do not have gas solenoids making nice welds more
difficult,
and aluminum welding impossible.
I would suggest
the Miller brand, Hobart brand (made by Miller) or the Lincoln 110 volt
units.
They all have 20% duty cycle, gas solenoids and either mechanical or
electronic
contactors.The ones with contactors and transformer taps are the least
expensive up front and cheapest to repair out of warranty. Average price
$575. +
bottle of gas.
Also if you are
welding steel with these smaller welders use pure CO2, you will get more
penetration per watt used.
C25 gas will give better
astetics and less cleanup but less penetration per watt.<<
I built the Wabbit and put a turbo-charged Subaru engine in a Ghia
using a less expensive MIG welder than the one above.
>>
I am happy I do not follow your vehicle being welded with less than 70 amps
and 16 volts as this is the max outputs of these cheap China made welders.<<
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)= >>
>
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STEVE CLUNN wrote:
> Along these lines, I have a friend who uses 4 to 6 golf cart
> batteries as a welder. I was very impressed with it when I tried
> it out. He has some long no 12 wire on a board that's used to cut
> back the current, taps in where he needs it. This is stick welding
> very simple and as you say in a hour you can learn.
Yes indeed! My grandfather taught me this trick back in the 1960s. He
would make emergency welds with two cars parked next to each other, and
jumper cables to connect their 12v batteries in series. Welding "rods"
were coathangers!
The jumper cables and coathanger provided some resistance, though it was
better if you could connect the ground wire not to the car's battery
negative, but to the starter motor (the "hot side that gets connected to
the battery when the starter solenoid pulls in. This was most easily
done on Fords -- grandpa called it his "Ford" welder :-). This way the
starter motor was in series and provided some inductance. Typically the
starter motor did turn over the engine while you were welding, but the
engine wouldn't start because the key is off.
I could only produce ugly splattery welds, but he was pretty good at it
(but then, he was also a far better welder with good equipment than I
was :-)
>> I have taught 7th grade girls to MIG weld in less than an hour.
Yep! Our BEST class kids (4th-6th graders) have welded in their school
classrooms with a MIG welder (and a dad).
--
*BE* the change that you wish to see in the world.
-- Mahatma Ghandi
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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mreish wrote:
> I think the state of EV/Web commerce is pretty bad. Come on guys.
> It's 2005 and time to get your sites out of 1995.
You have to remember; these business don't have millions of dollars in
sales to pay for fancy website design. Besides, does a fancy website
mean better products? I find just the opposite to be true; the flashier
the website, the more expensive the products and the worse the customer
service!
--
"*BE* the change that you wish to see in the world."
-- Mahatma Ghandi
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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http://www.streetracersonline.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=418
uhm, cute? The corvette and porshe don't look to bad. On something this
tiny, I can see the benifit of using smaller motors and smaller
controllers, but AGM's or floddies are probably not a good idea, right?
Could these bring litium ion powered down into the price range of mere
mortals, or maybe make feesable NIMH packs assembled from D cells?
Anyone know the curb weight?
because of the oversize looking tires, they do look like RC cars or the
ones they give out at cheveron's
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You can certainly parallel the outputs ( and inputs) to get twice the
current, as long as the connections are accessible,
You probably won't be able to get 16 amps DC out safely, though.
There are two reasons:
1. The two variac sections may not share the load equally. I am using a
similar setup (two 120V sections of one shaft in parallel) and, to make sure
the currents were similar in each section, I added some resistance ( in my
case, a precision 10 watt, 0.05 ohm power resistor) in series with the
output of each section.
This does two things: it will tend to equalize the current a bit, and it
gives you a way to easily measure the current in each section. ( Measure the
voltage drop across each resistor and compare them), In my case, one
section supplies about 60% of the current. This was even worse before I
cleaned off the contact wiper areas on the coils. If they're not equal,
your maximum total current will be less than twice the individual rated
current.
As a bonus, adding resistance will make it easier to adjust battery
charging current (and make the current a little more stable as the batteries
charge).
2, The 8 amp rating for each section is AC current - for resistive loads (
power factor = 1.0) Your power factor will be much lower since you are
rectifying it to get rippling DC. Your actual current will be in short
bursts 120 times a second as the rectified rippling DC exceeds the pack
voltage. ( That's for a full-wave bridge rectifier - and much worse for a
half wave rectifies ( single diode))
If your RMS current is, for example, twice ( just a guess) what the
average( DC) current is, you can only draw 4 amps DC from each section ( 8
amps DC total charging current into your batteries) without exceeding the
intended variac heating.
You can always add fan cooling to allow somewhat higher currents, though.
Any ideas out there to increase the power factor in the variac? Will adding
capacitance across the variac inputs help??
Phil
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Subject: General Radio Type W20H 220v dual variac on one shaft. What can
this baby do?
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 19:07:10 -0700
Two 8 amp 220 variac's on one shaft. Can I pump the same 220v line in to
both and get 16 amps at 300v? These are rated at 8 amps each. Can I
parallel the output?
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
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Jeff & Diane wrote:
> Most of the applications I've seen in the EV web site of all you
> experienced builders shows that you always mount your SLA batteries
> standing up. Suppose you have a particular application that only
> has about 7 or 8 inches of clearance. Can you mount an SLA battery
> on its side? Will that hurt the battery in any way?
In a pinch, you can mount them on their side. There might be some slight
loss of capacity over time, and there could be problems if the battery
ever vents under fault condition if the terminals are below the vents.
--
"*BE* the change that you wish to see in the world."
-- Mahatma Ghandi
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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