EV Digest 4394
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: What conversion kits would you be interested in? (long)
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Fw: 12kw item.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Busbars for Batteries
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: DCP Raptor 600 controller for sale
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: should I replace sagging Batts?
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: DCP Raptor 600 controller for sale
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: 48v charging
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) A BIG Block for Wayland...the BIG Yellow Beast Arrives in Portland
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Kokam powered Electric Imp does 58 miles at 65 mph
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) A question born of ignorance
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: DCP Raptor 600 controller for sale
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: A question born of ignorance
by "darren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) John Wayland Motors
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: A question born of ignorance
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Fw: 12kw item.
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: A question born of ignorance
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Cryogenic EVs?
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: 9" Warp motor for drag racing
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: John Wayland Motors
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) series wound rpm
by "Deuville's Rink" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: series wound rpm
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: series wound rpm
by "Deuville's Rink" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: series wound rpm
by "hi_torque_electric" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Kokam powered Electric Imp does 58 miles at 65 mph
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: series wound rpm
by "Deuville's Rink" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
True story, my wife finally has her *dream* car, it a 96 Mustang
convertible, 6 cyc. She could care less that's its underpowered, she
just likes the way it looks.
Tony McCormick
"Drive Electric, Play Bluegrass, Learn the way of the Sword"
see it all at: http://www.notebene.net
David Dymaxion wrote:
A couple devil's advocate counterpoints:
People buy economy cars because they are cheap. It would be tough to
do a conversion with any new economy car and make it cheap.
Chevy and Ford sell lots of 6 cylinder Camaros and Mustangs. Indeed,
in the past they have sold a fair number of four cylinder versions of
these cars! There is a sizeable consumer segment that wants the look
of speed, but is happy to settle for less speed for less cost.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's where the 5 gallon water bottle/cooler comes in handy. Glub, glub,
glub. Think the 12kw will put out 100 amps 24/7? LR..........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: 12kw item.
The diesels in the gensets use the basin type cooling
setup. It's basically a small bathtub with water in
it, surrounding the cylinder. as you run the genny you
have to periodically fill the tub. I'm afraid that if
you had it on a trailer you might lose all your water
bouncing down the road.
Gadget
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
This is the guy on ebay selling those Chinese
gensets. My Electravan draw
about 100 amps or less on flat freeways. He says
the 12kw unit will produce
this 24/7. I'd like to make a veggy oil range
extender to go to Southern
Cal with. This is the same Ebay vendor that was
receitly on the list. The
genset was about a grand. Worth the money? With
trailer and all it'll
weigh at least 500 pounds. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel A. Koch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 5:17 AM
Subject: Re: 12kw item.
> Hello Lawrence,
> A 12 KW generator head puts out 100 amps
continuous at 120 volts.
> Regards,
> Joel
>
> Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>
>> I am considering running an electric car with
your genset(long range.
>> Not for local use). I need 100 amps continuous.
Can your genset do
>> that? Be real nice if it could.
>> Lawrence Rhodes
>> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
>> Reedmaker
>> Book 4/5 doubler
>> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> 415-821-3519
>>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Forget the liquid tin idea; that stuff is just barely adequate for
tinning PCBs.
How thick does the plating have to be? It's just to prevent corrosion. I
haven't had trouble yet & I've tightened the heck out of them.. I'd say the
liquid stuff is great. LR............
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have you called Peter Senkowski to see if he'll
upgrade you?
He may give you a $200 rebate for the case, and you
might come out ahead.
peace,
--- Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm selling the DCP Raptor 600 motor controller that
> I used to use in my
> Jeep Cherokee conversion. It is in great working
> condition; though it
> just wasn't powerful enough for my heavy Cherokee,
> forcing me to upgrade
> to a 1000-amp controller.
>
> I'm looking to get $1600 for it.
>
> Please contact me off-list if you are interested; at
> this address or my
> main e-mail address: nick _at_ driveev _dot_ com
>
> --
> -Nick
> http://Go.DriveEV.com/
> 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
> ---------------------------
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Discover Yahoo!
Use Yahoo! to plan a weekend, have fun online and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can you test the system with only 10 batteries? That would be to jumper past
the three bad ones and run the car on only 10 batteries.
If you can, you can see how much more capacity the 10 good ones have.
If they have 30% more AHr than the three, Go ahead and replace the three.
If they have only 3% more AHR than the three, Replace the entire pack.
You can squeeze more service out of them but your range will be reduced. I
recommend putting a voltmeter on the worst one and back off (slow down) when
it drops under 10 volts. Driving after it drops under 10 volts causes
unnecessary heating of that battery shortening its remaining life.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Marshall (GAMES)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: should I replace sagging Batts?
> So I got a load tester and found that 10 of my Batteries are all doing
> quite well, and 3 are obviously bad ones.
>
> I tested after a long 20 ah commute. The 10 all held to 11.8 volts
> during the test, whilst the 3 dipped to 7.8-9.6 when load tested.
>
> So thanks for the advice. But now I'm wondering if I should replace
> these 3 bats now, or if I can wait and squeeze more service out of them.
>
> Am I doing damage or taking risks by leaving these in my pack?
>
> Thanks,
> Jamie
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
Bob Bath wrote:
Have you called Peter Senkowski to see if he'll upgrade you? He may
give you a $200 rebate for the case, and you might come out ahead.
peace,
No I haven't. Though I'm confused about what you mean by "rebate for the
case" and "upgrade".
Either way, my Jeep has been powered by a Zilla 1K for almost 3 months
now, and I have nothing to use the Raptor 600 in. The only reason why I
didn't sell it 3 months ago was because I lent it to Jim to use in his
Celica EV while he was awaiting the return of his own Raptor from Peter
Senkowski.
I need to sell it now because I just purchased a new transmission and
transfer-case set for my Jeep... which wasn't cheap :-0
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.bb-battery.com/productpages/EB/EB50-12.pdf states the maximum
charging rate is 15 Amps for the batteries.
http://www.electricrider.com/chargers/specsheets/4808rf.pdf states the
maximum charging rate of the charger is 3.5 Amps up to 57.6 Volts, it tapers
until the current drops to 1.75 Amps, then it drops to a float Voltage of
55.2 Volts.
My opinion is that the taper to 1.75 amps causes the transition to occur too
early for opportunity charging.
Two 2416SRFs on each half of the pack would work better when opportunity
charging because it tapers down to 0.8 amps before dropping to float
voltage.
I have had good luck with a charger like the 2412-SRF with AGM batteries
whereas the charger dried out (destroyed) flooded batteries in about a month
of connect time.
The 4808-RF charger and EB50-12 batteries seem to be compatible but suffer
from the "charge overnight to top off" paradigm. If the batteries were empty
(0% SOC), it would take this charger over 14.29 hours to charge. (50 AHr/3.5
Amps)
This is not a very good opportunity charger. It will work, but it will not
restore many "percent SOC" per hour.
I'm sorry. I'm not that patient. I want my charger to finish charging in two
to four hours so I have a full charge at lunch time, after work and again
after dinner. That way I can run four shallow cycles per day instead of one
deep one.
If I was going to use these 4808-RF chargers, I would install four of them
in parallel or find a 15 amp model that better matches the battery
manufacturer's maximum rate specification.
I guess I got spoiled playing with Rich's monster charger. It pulls down a
pack of 19 Orbitals in half an hour and back up in 40 minutes. We weren't
able to crack the 60 minute round trip I was able to do with a single Optima
because we did not have enough load bank to bring that many Orbitals down in
20 minutes (like I could do with the single Optima.) If the need arises, we
could have the 20 minute discharge capability in a couple days.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodriguez, Jennifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 1:06 PM
Subject: RE: 48v charging
> Hi,
>
> I'm the other person Cristin mentioned in her first post. In my case, I
> have the B&B EB50 batteries (four 12V 50Ah batteries), you can view
> their specs here:
> http://www.bb-battery.com/productpages/EB/EB50-12.pdf. I have been
> using the stock charger, which specifies that it should not be left on
> for more than 12 hours. It charges at 10 Amps. I was interested in a
> Soneil charger to help de-sulfate the batteries, and because it could be
> left on indefinitely (sometimes I forget to unplug at home). The
> charger I'm looking at is the 4808SRF, see specs here:
> http://www.electricrider.com/chargers/specsheets/4808rf.pdf. That also
> happens to be the charger that Cristin is using with her EVT. (I think
> she also has B&B batteries, but I'm not sure of the model.)
>
> Knowing the batteries now, can you tell me if the Soneil would be a good
> charger for these batteries? In my case, I plan to still use the stock
> charger for charging away from home, such as at work, which is about 40%
> of my charging. I looked at the battery specs, but I did not know how
> to determine which level of charging would be best.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Jenn
> Yellow EVT 4000e
> Santa Clara, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Smalley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 11:08 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: 48v charging
>
>
>
> 1. A high rate initial charge current is recommended by some
> manufacturers
> but not others. You did not state the brand and model of battery so we
> would
> have to guess if 10 amps is appropriate for your circumstances.
>
> 2. Some batteries respond very well to slow charging. You may have some
> of
> these batteries. On the other hand, the slow charger may have been
> installed
> because of cost.
>
> 3. If all the regs are blinking, they are doing their job. You can
> verify
> that by measuring the voltage on each battery when the reg blinks. A
> charger
> that backs off properly will taper to a nice low finishing current and
> have
> ALL the regs blinking.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gravity Girl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 11:11 AM
> Subject: 48v charging
>
>
> >
> > Questions about charging for my EVT-
> >
> > I removed the stock charger that came with the EVT, not knowing if it
> > is smart or not (my guess is that it isn't that smart, if at all) and
> > replaced with with a Soneil 48v charger. I also put on 4 Rudman regs
> to
> > make sure the batteries stay in balance during the charge.
> >
> > A member on another list I am on (for e-mopeds) told me she had heard
> > that the Soneil was good for a top-off charge, but that the batteries
> > would last longer with a minimum 10A initial charge. They recommended
> > the Zivan NG1 to provide this. Since I can charge my EVT all day while
> > at work and all night while at home, speed isn't so much of an issue.
> >
> > I have noticed that the regs only pulse for a very short period of
> time
> > during charging, my guess is because the Soneil takes things nice and
> > slow with a very low current finish.
> >
> > So, questions:
> >
> > Will starting a 48v charge on SLA batteries at 10A increase battery
> > life?
> > Is the soneil under-charging?
> > Should I add a second soneil in parallel to increase charge current?
> > Do the regs sound like they are behaving properly? (or have I messed
> up
> > the installation somehow)
> >
> > I forgot to bring my dvm to work today to check the battery levels at
> > full charge. I imagine that will help answer question #2.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > -Cristin
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > La Bola Ocho Magica dice: SI
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
If the high revving 8's of White Zombie could be called 'small blocks', than
the BIG Yellow Beast, the monster 350 lb. Allis Chalmers motor for Purple Phaze
surely is the BIG block of electric motors! Yes, it's finally here, still on
the pallet in the back of my service truck....we needed to use a forklift to
move the damn thing! Pictures will be on the Plasma Boy Racing web site soon,
with the basic site open after this weekend, hopefully. The site will only get
better as we add all the features I've got planned, and, with lots of help from
Mark Farver....thanks, Mark.
Jim Husted of 'Hi Torque Electric', with custom machined parts made by Father
Time, did a fantastic job on this newest hotrod electric motor. To say he
beefed it up, is an understatement. The movable brush rigging works
beautifully. I will be designing the motorized servo system for it this weekend.
Considering this motor literally came from the earth...it was laying partially
buried, in a dried grass mound of forgotten old electric motors for more than a
decade, the way it now looks is amazing. Jim took me to the burial site to show
it to me, and well, the rest is history!
Lot's of effort has gone into this motor, with a teamwork approach from Tim
Brehm, Madman Rudman, Father Time, Jim Husted and his son Matt, and myself. Jim
and I went back and forth over all the mods I wanted, but in the end, we came
together with quite a nice result. Father Time took a raw chunk of aluminum and
created a factory like pair of 40 lb. lighter shaft end bells, one for me, and
one for his motor (yes, there is a brother to the BIG Yellow Beast). FT's
artistic talent shows through, especially in the artsy interior bearing support
he crafted....you can look through the massive fan
openings (there is no fan, now) and see his gorgeous machine work. Jim listened
to me and chose 'Sunshine Yellow' for the motor's color....it pops with color,
and looks terrific with that big shiny aluminum end bell. The massive inch and
5/16 splined output shaft will mate right into a Spicer brand slip yoke on its
way to the input pinion of a tricked out Dutchman Ford nine inch setup. The
rear end will have to stay together under large amounts of torque twisting fat
drag slicks, so for this machine, I'm going with 35 spline Dutchman axles and a
braced all out drag version of the Dutchman
housing. Gear ratios are still not yet determined, but a Detroit Locker is part
of the plan.
Anyone wanting the highest quality electric motor work, whether it's rebuilding
an EV's stock motor or having something custom made up, should consider getting
in touch with Jim. He's all over electric vehicle stuff and is amped up over
being a big part of Plasma Boy Racing. He knows the art of DC motor repair,
rebuilding, and design, and yet, will readily admit he's new to the
over-the-top drag racing stresses many of us more crazed individuals do to our
motors. Thus, he's almost looking forward to seeing what kind of carnage
results from 2000 amp inputs, high rpm runs, and high voltage
power. As Jim says, "If it blows up, we'll simply tear it down, find out what
happened, and make it so it won't happen again."....I like his attitude!
Jim went nuts inside this BIG motor and things are really insulated, carefully
placed, and very robust.
He is now finishing up the Siamese 8 motor for the Zombie project, just in
time, as the 336V pack of Hawker AeroBatteries will be at my doorstep next
week! It's going to be a fun summer of electric drag racing here in the Pacific
NW!
Jim can be reached at:
Hi-Torque Electric, LLC
460 NE Hemlock Ave, Unit C
Redmond, Oregon 97756
(541) 548-6140
See Ya......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Cliff and all
Having You , Shawn and Lowell at the rally brought it to a new level , again
I'd encourage anyone with an
Ev to have there own EV rally in there town , Find a store or place that
looks good , talke to the owner and your on your way. Then do it every year.
Steve Clunn is as intense in person as he comes across in his emails. It
is
great to see what that much drive can accomplish. Most of the EVs at the
show exist because Steve put them on the road. The majority are work
vehicles, rough but practical. The exception is the Gazelle, a eye
catching
Mercedes replica that entranced everyone.
Thanks for the kind words , I'd like to think my ev building is improving
faster than my spelling :-) ,
Charles said he had to sign a non-disclosure to get the batteries but I
hope
he will post as much as he can as he and Steve learn more. These batteries
might be an excellent option for some conversions.
The company dosn't want to be bombarded with quesitons or orders, Some how I
just ended up in the right place and the right time and when I can I'll tell
what I know.
Steve Clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was visiting a friend last week who is in process of re-organizing his
shop. Among the tools and wonderous devices are three woodworking machines.
One of them, a 20" planer, has a 3-phase motor on it. As my friend doesn't
have 3-phase in his shop, he built a phase converter. My question is: Could
this motor be used in an EV? What is the difference between a 3-phase and a
straight AC motor? I'll take my answer off the air...
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
Children need love, especially when they do not deserve it.
- Harold S.
Hulbert
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The cases are expensive. He swaps out the circuit
boards, and turns them into 1000A controller. Didn't
know you'd already moved up, so the point is moot.
Must've missed that send.
peace,
--- Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Bob Bath wrote:
> > Have you called Peter Senkowski to see if he'll
> upgrade you? He may
> > give you a $200 rebate for the case, and you might
> come out ahead.
> > peace,
>
> No I haven't. Though I'm confused about what you
> mean by "rebate for the
> case" and "upgrade".
>
> Either way, my Jeep has been powered by a Zilla 1K
> for almost 3 months
> now, and I have nothing to use the Raptor 600 in.
> The only reason why I
> didn't sell it 3 months ago was because I lent it to
> Jim to use in his
> Celica EV while he was awaiting the return of his
> own Raptor from Peter
> Senkowski.
>
> I need to sell it now because I just purchased a new
> transmission and
> transfer-case set for my Jeep... which wasn't cheap
> :-0
>
> --
> -Nick
> http://Go.DriveEV.com/
> 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
> ---------------------------
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why? don't want the rest of the group to learn?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 8:10 AM
Subject: A question born of ignorance
>I was visiting a friend last week who is in process of re-organizing his
> shop. Among the tools and wonderous devices are three woodworking machines.
> One of them, a 20" planer, has a 3-phase motor on it. As my friend doesn't
> have 3-phase in his shop, he built a phase converter. My question is: Could
> this motor be used in an EV? What is the difference between a 3-phase and a
> straight AC motor? I'll take my answer off the air...
>
> David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
> Children need love, especially when they do not deserve it.
> - Harold S.
> Hulbert
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to all:
My name is Jim Husted owner-operator of Hi-Torque Electric. I was compelled to
write a posting to insure everyone that I am not a figment of John Wayland�s
imagination. Being this is my first posting I thought I�d list a few of my
credits. I�ve rebuilt D.C. formed coil motors since 1981, where I started at
Beech Electric California. Around 1986 Prestolite bought Beech Electric to get
into the rebuilding business. I was one of a few, classified as a �Master Tech�
by Prestolite in 1987. Increasingly unhappy with the Prestolite �Prison� I
left in 1989. I moved to Warfield for a 2-year sentence there. In 1990 I
moved the family to Bend, Oregon, and opened D.C. Industrial. The Oregon Dept.
of Transportation condemned my building for the �Bend Parkway�. The ensuing
battle with the state of Oregon over fair market price left me with no time or
money to relocate. This coupled to a divorce and the fact I was tired of
dealing with people like � John Wayland�, I closed the d!
oors and
went to work for a customer I had serviced. After 9 � years there, I realized
I would not be truly happy until I had the freedom to rebuild motors my way.
My motto is: I learned how to build motors by learning how not to build them.
Last September I opened Hi-Torque Electric. My reputation in the N.W. is good
and most if not all customers followed me. In as much as the �New� shop was
plugging along well, I felt void of challenges. Funny that after only 25 years
of building motors that go 10 miles an hour in a forklift it all became, well
stale.
Along comes someone creative like �John Wayland� (funny how that works) talking
about vibration noises in his motor. Thinking it�s a Jack motor; I start
rambling on about the armature being unbalanced, a bad bearing journal, ECT.
No, No, he says it�s for my racecar! From there it�s a blur. Something about
2000 amps, Plasma trails, Flash-overs and a picture of 2 ugly-build warp 8�s he
had stuffed into his beautiful car. Well I instantly knew that we could no
longer have that!
This is how I saw things progress:
After months of all talk (the time of year I�m not busy), John finally brings
me his pair of 8�s. The motors are in over-all great shape (just ugly as sin)
with no signs of heat in either the commentator or brush shunts. The single
key rear out-put shaft did show signs of wear (imagine that), but the coupled
joint between them did not. I threw up the idea of inverting one motor so the
brush ends face out and the housings are mounted with a common drive plate
becoming a middle plate creating a fan and bearing housing, that also connects
the two housings. John insisted on a middle bearing (even though his 5/8�
single key held � his load without wear), and so being I�m the new kid on the
block I�d better listen, besides what do I know about motors right?lol. John
then insists that his shaft must end with a larger bore than the armature can
accept. Well this seemed like �small shaft envy� to me but again what do I
know right?
So now, I�m confronted by a stop on one side of the shaft and a plug between
the armatures to create the middle bearing journal and fan area.
At this point I must stop and talk about John. John for those that don�t know
him is like a schoolgirl in a Barbie shop (he even squeals) when around motors.
Well he�s all excited about some old junk cores I�ve got lying around. I tell
him if you like these you need to take a look at some 13-inch, 72 volt,
inter-poled motors I have out in my uncle�s field. The look in his eyes was
almost frightening, and I found myself at my uncles with John taking a photo
shoot of the motors I was planning on scrapping out. This began projects #2
and #3, as Father Time will be getting a twin to John�s beast.
I know this is getting long and if there is any left still reading I will wrap
this up by saying that this has truly been an exciting group to be a part of.
My expertise will be not in technical questions like how many H.P. can I get.
Only a dyno can say what you will be at. I personally know the guy who runs
Advance and he couldn�t answer because well you guys are animals and they don�t
have a tester like that. I can do any modification you can dream up, as I am a
master at what I�d call a copper and insulation smith. Let me know if there is
anything I can do for those of you who race, from brushes and bearings to
complete motor retrofits. I will do what I can to help keep costs down and
would also be interested in bartering as I would love to build me a mini
Hi-Torque truck to bip around town with, so maybe we can trade time and or
materials to each obtain our goals.
I will end with this. I will not be happy until I can say I�ve built the
fastest motor on earth!!! So who�s going to top john? Small or large let me
know if I can help.
Thanks for listening
The new kid on the block
Jim Husted Hi-Torque electric
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No, just trying to be funny.
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
Children need love, especially when they do not deserve it.
- Harold S.
Hulbert
----- Original Message -----
From: "darren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: A question born of ignorance
Why? don't want the rest of the group to learn?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 8:10 AM
Subject: A question born of ignorance
I was visiting a friend last week who is in process of re-organizing his
shop. Among the tools and wonderous devices are three woodworking
machines.
One of them, a 20" planer, has a 3-phase motor on it. As my friend
doesn't
have 3-phase in his shop, he built a phase converter. My question is:
Could
this motor be used in an EV? What is the difference between a 3-phase and
a
straight AC motor? I'll take my answer off the air...
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
Children need love, especially when they do not deserve it.
- Harold S.
Hulbert
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OK Lawernce..
12Kw and 100 amps is ....120 volts.
So the charger has to take a 100 amp feed continuosly...
That's a pair of PFC 50s... and you only get to use 1/2 the charger you
bought.
Better make it 50 amps of 240, then you can use one charger.
If the charger is just the genset and a Full wave bridge.... keep in mind
the heat in the diodes, and how are you going to control the output voltage
and not fry the batteries.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: 12kw item.
> That's where the 5 gallon water bottle/cooler comes in handy. Glub, glub,
> glub. Think the 12kw will put out 100 amps 24/7? LR..........
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 9:05 AM
> Subject: Re: Fw: 12kw item.
>
>
> > The diesels in the gensets use the basin type cooling
> > setup. It's basically a small bathtub with water in
> > it, surrounding the cylinder. as you run the genny you
> > have to periodically fill the tub. I'm afraid that if
> > you had it on a trailer you might lose all your water
> > bouncing down the road.
> >
> > Gadget
> > --- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> This is the guy on ebay selling those Chinese
> >> gensets. My Electravan draw
> >> about 100 amps or less on flat freeways. He says
> >> the 12kw unit will produce
> >> this 24/7. I'd like to make a veggy oil range
> >> extender to go to Southern
> >> Cal with. This is the same Ebay vendor that was
> >> receitly on the list. The
> >> genset was about a grand. Worth the money? With
> >> trailer and all it'll
> >> weigh at least 500 pounds. Lawrence Rhodes.....
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Joel A. Koch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 5:17 AM
> >> Subject: Re: 12kw item.
> >>
> >>
> >> > Hello Lawrence,
> >> > A 12 KW generator head puts out 100 amps
> >> continuous at 120 volts.
> >> > Regards,
> >> > Joel
> >> >
> >> > Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> I am considering running an electric car with
> >> your genset(long range.
> >> >> Not for local use). I need 100 amps continuous.
> >> Can your genset do
> >> >> that? Be real nice if it could.
> >> >> Lawrence Rhodes
> >> >> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> >> >> Reedmaker
> >> >> Book 4/5 doubler
> >> >> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> >> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> >> 415-821-3519
> >> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 5/28/05, Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I was visiting a friend last week who is in process of re-organizing his
> shop. Among the tools and wonderous devices are three woodworking machines.
> One of them, a 20" planer, has a 3-phase motor on it. As my friend doesn't
> have 3-phase in his shop, he built a phase converter. My question is: Could
> this motor be used in an EV?
Yes. Any EV that claims to be "AC" normally has a 3-phase induction
motor in it. In theory, any 3-phase machine will do. But in
practice, motors for EVs tend to be optimised for the job: i.e. wound
for a lower voltage, more suitable for batteries than mains; better
insulation to cope with running on an inverter, maybe a stronger rotor
construction to work at high RPM, good materials and design for high
efficiency, lower weight, etc etc.
> What is the difference between a 3-phase and a straight AC motor?
A three phase motor has three pairs of coils, one for each phase. The
current in each phase is 120 degrees offset from the previous one, so
the magnetic field rotates.
A single phase motor only has one pair of main windings, and the field
just goes "up and down". This is fine once the motor is running, but
doesn't start by itself. So, you need a second coil with some trick
to produce a sort of rotating field to start off with - usually some
arrangement with capacitors, that cuts out on a centrifugal switch
once the motor is up to speed.
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:25 AM 5/27/2005, you wrote:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360346
BS, you know nothing about it then.
I know plenty about BS.:^)
I also know even more about cryogenics and the behavior of
materials at cryogenic temperatures, and after extended lengths of time at
cryogenic temperatures.
I did cryogenic research for 20 years at the National Institute of
Standards and Technology (was NBS.) I started out in the Superconductors
and Magnetic Materials Group and then moved to the Cryogenic Properties of
Solids Group. This group moved as a whole to the Materials Reliability
Division. If you look up anything about materials properties at cryogenic
temperatures, you will notice that the research was likely done at NIST in
the building I worked in by people I worked with every day.
Trust me, most of the claims made about cryogenic treatment of
metal are complete BS. Yes, in some very specific instances (as part of the
heat treatment process for very specific alloys) there is a minor effect,
but for 99.9% of alloys there is no effect whatsoever.
Nearly all of these
cryogenic treatments are just snake oil.
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube'
\'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=(___)=
U
Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Plasma Boy launches with a 1400 amp Zilla or this year maybe a 2000 amp
Zilla.
The Siamese 8 are set in series mode, for max torque and little RPM He runs
the controller until the motor amps drop below about 800 amps then hits the
bypass and also sets the motor circuit to parallel mode for max RPM and Hp,
then hangs on and prays!!
So the launch is controlled by your right foot and a programmable
controller. So you can tailor your launch process.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: 9" Warp motor for drag racing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich Rudman"
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 9:43 AM
> Subject: Re: 9" Warp motor for drag racing
>
>
> > Also John stays on the controller for the 60 ft lauch.
>
> What does that mean and how is it accomplished?
>
> Thanks
> Rush
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Jim welcome to the Fray!!
It was good seing you and your shop, and finding that John did find a
slightly crazed motor guy off in the Hills of central Oregon.
I hope to have you seeing some AvDc 8 inch parts soon. I have ideas and I
have the Dyno....
Rich Rudman
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 9:08 AM
Subject: John Wayland Motors
>
> Hello to all:
>
>
> I will end with this. I will not be happy until I can say I've built the
fastest motor on earth!!! So who's going to top john? Small or large let
me know if I can help.
>
> Thanks for listening
>
> The new kid on the block
> Jim Husted Hi-Torque electric
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hello guys, still working on my Zamboni conversion, finding it hard to locate a
shunt wound motor, am thinking that maybe a forklift series or advance series
may do the job. Today I tested a 36 volt 4.5 hp explosionproof series (from an
old explosion proof forklift that was a freebee) on the zamboni at 72 volts,
the motor did not runaway as there is enough load on just turning the
transmission to hold the motor. Unfortunately I do not have a way to tell rpm
but will be looking for a way next so I know better whats happening.
Is there any formula that would tell me how the much the rpm will drop per
hp of added load? The 4.5 hp motor amp draw was 200 amp so it was working at
around 19 hp. Would the advance 8 inch be more efficient?
appreciate all comments and suggestions
Ellery
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here are a couple of simple ones (paper and flourescent lights):
http://www.gizmology.net/lathetach.htm
http://www.sherline.com/rpmgage.pdf
Another way is to put a spiral on the spinning part and time how long
the line takes to go from the inside to the outside or vice versa.
--- Deuville's Rink <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> ...
> Unfortunately I do not have a way to tell rpm but
> will be looking for a way next so I know better whats happening.
> ...
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Dymaxion" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: series wound rpm
Thanks David I will try one next week
Ellery
> Here are a couple of simple ones (paper and flourescent lights):
>
> http://www.gizmology.net/lathetach.htm
> http://www.sherline.com/rpmgage.pdf
>
> Another way is to put a spiral on the spinning part and time how long
> the line takes to go from the inside to the outside or vice versa.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey D.R.
As a motor guy I'd like more info, like how'd you come up with 4.5
HP, as most forklift motors don't rate HP on their name plates. If
it's stamped into the nameplate, what brand and any numbers you can
get could help me look up basic info. I do have John waylands 8's in
my shop and would like to know the size of your motor for reference.
What diameter is your motor?
As I stated I'm new here so I'm not hip to all the lingo yet but you
say you are looking for a shunt wound motor? or a series wound
motor? Shunt wound motors are usually used as continuous duty jobs
like power steering units and such, more like a permanent magnet
motor. Also have you advanced your timing or is the motor still
stock, as built by the manufacturer? I'm not sure I'd give you any
useful info but I too am a student here looking to learn
Thanks Jim
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Deuville's Rink" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> hello guys, still working on my Zamboni conversion, finding it hard
to locate a shunt wound motor, am thinking that maybe a forklift
series or advance series may do the job. Today I tested a 36 volt 4.5
hp explosionproof series (from an old explosion proof forklift that
was a freebee) on the zamboni at 72 volts, the motor did not runaway
as there is enough load on just turning the transmission to hold the
motor. Unfortunately I do not have a way to tell rpm but will be
looking for a way next so I know better whats happening.
> Is there any formula that would tell me how the much the rpm
will drop per hp of added load? The 4.5 hp motor amp draw was 200 amp
so it was working at around 19 hp. Would the advance 8 inch be more
efficient?
> appreciate all comments and suggestions
> Ellery
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I'm very impressed with this report, way to go, guys!
ProEV wrote:
> Our pack consists of 88 cells and weighs about 379 lbs.
>
Compare this to lead. Though I get very high acceleration
performance from AGM lead acid batteries, the 585 lbs. of Optimas take my 2340
lb. EV 25
miles per charge, driving it easy, 20 miles or so with my foot deep into it.
Now, here's a
pack 200 lbs. 'lighter' that runs a car 110-120 miles...incredible! That's
about 8 times
the range per charge, for a given weight in batteries! Of course, a pack of 13
Optimas is
only $1400-$1500.
How do these cells fare at 1000 amps? Is that known yet, or would they be
damaged by such
currents? I suspect they are limited to low currents around 400 amps and less.
Way to go on that range. Hearing your report about traveling on the freeway for
an hour
and still having 50% of the pack ready to give more range, reminded me of my 4
day trip
years ago in an EV1, but even with the advanced (for the period) NiMH
batteries, it was
still 1100 lbs. of batteries....379 lbs. of batteries with that kind of range?
Amazing!
I went 120 miles on a charge with a lead powered pickup, a 440 mile road trip
that still
brings back fond memories, but geesh, that took 2500 lbs. of wet cells!
I'm looking forward to reading more as you guys learn more.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "hi_torque_electric" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Deuville's Rink" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: series wound rpm
Hi Jim, I too am in a learning state, the 4.5 hp motor is a GE motor and was
used on the hydraulics of the forklift it does have the stamp with some info
but remember it was just a test and not part of the Zamboni, the larger
motor is still on it but it is huge, I suspect because of the explosion
proof aspect of it. I really would like the shunt wound so that I would have
a constant 2400-3000 rpm that the original gas motor was set at to operate
the Zamboni. The Zamboni has hydraulic motors that drive the wheels and
others for driving the augars, the motor runs all the time and the operator
uses valves to control speed and the augars. On my other Zamboni that I
converted the shunt or compound motor runs at a constant rpm and raws about
150 to 200 amps depending on how hard it is working, based on this I was
looking for a 20hp motor as I believe that would work okay. I do have lots
of room to install the motor however the center of my transmission to the
motor mount plate is 6.5 inches which may limit the diameter of the motor to
13 inches, would be great if you could come up with a motor that is
reasonable.
Feel free to E-mail me direct if you want more info
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ellery
> Hey D.R.
> As a motor guy I'd like more info, like how'd you come up with 4.5
> HP, as most forklift motors don't rate HP on their name plates. If
> it's stamped into the nameplate, what brand and any numbers you can
> get could help me look up basic info. I do have John waylands 8's in
> my shop and would like to know the size of your motor for reference.
> What diameter is your motor?
> As I stated I'm new here so I'm not hip to all the lingo yet but you
> say you are looking for a shunt wound motor? or a series wound
> motor? Shunt wound motors are usually used as continuous duty jobs
> like power steering units and such, more like a permanent magnet
> motor. Also have you advanced your timing or is the motor still
> stock, as built by the manufacturer? I'm not sure I'd give you any
> useful info but I too am a student here looking to learn
> Thanks Jim
>
>
>
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Deuville's Rink" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > hello guys, still working on my Zamboni conversion, finding it hard
> to locate a shunt wound motor, am thinking that maybe a forklift
> series or advance series may do the job. Today I tested a 36 volt 4.5
> hp explosionproof series (from an old explosion proof forklift that
> was a freebee) on the zamboni at 72 volts, the motor did not runaway
> as there is enough load on just turning the transmission to hold the
> motor. Unfortunately I do not have a way to tell rpm but will be
> looking for a way next so I know better whats happening.
> > Is there any formula that would tell me how the much the rpm
> will drop per hp of added load? The 4.5 hp motor amp draw was 200 amp
> so it was working at around 19 hp. Would the advance 8 inch be more
> efficient?
> > appreciate all comments and suggestions
> > Ellery
>
>
--- End Message ---
