EV Digest 4414
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: The Discovery EV program
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Siamese Motors
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) TdS Report #67: Photos - Plug-in Prius
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: Amp Head, Heads Up
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Siamese Motors
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Another e-meter question
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) JEGS for EV parts
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: article: Home-made pure electric cars destined overseas
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Another e-meter question...Lee?
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Amp Head, Heads Up
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: New product from Optima...
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) More SIADIS questions...(slightly OT)
by Richard Bebbington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Another e-meter question
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Siamese Motors
by "hi_torque_electric" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Power of DC
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: The Discovery EV program
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: The Discovery EV program
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Selling scooters, Cal Law change
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: More SIADIS questions...(slightly OT)
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) CA Motorized Bicycle laws
by "Rodriguez, Jennifer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Forklift motor rotates CW no matter the polarity.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Arcane three wheeler as possible glider. In Palo Alto.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) NAPA Battery Acid Filler (for watering)
by "J.R. Young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) LiIon Prius upgrade
by Steve Gaarder <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Link10 1000amp reading
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Argggggggg. Another Wrecked electric vehicle
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: What conversion kits would you be interested in? (long)
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Forklift motor rotates CW no matter the polarity.
by "hi_torque_electric" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Rich
Did anyone consider taking out the wrong wheel drive IFS and trying a 4
wheel drive truck-type front axel? Less handling, more grunt?
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
Children need love, especially when they do not deserve it.
- Harold S.
Hulbert
The Woodruff key looked about the size of the key in my 4 hp 36v/80 amp
floor scrubber motor.
You aughta see the keys that are in there now!!!!
Still we need splines and a super stought center bearings.
We use #40 tripple row industrial chains, one set on each side.
Then broke all both half shafts... then got M300 steel shafts... then broke
the front tranny...
It sits dead in the water in Rod's storage unit in Port Townsend.
You wanted other opinions???
You got mine
Madman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:44 PM 28/05/05 +0000, hi_torque_electric wrote:
<snip> This is what we're down to:
1) Press armatures /wrap windings /dip lightly and bake to perfection
2) Turn and cut armatures
3) Balance the unit.
4) Machine adjustable ring assy.
5) Weld brackets onto housings
6) Bring baby home to John <snip>
Reading this and other descriptions of the siamese motor, I was wondering
what the decider was for the center bearing arrangement?
Pressing the armature off in order to replace the center bearing sounds a
lot of work, was it not possible to get a bearing with internal diameter to
clear the rotor with an outside diameter that was useable? I've been
involved in replacing spindle bearings on CNC machines, and some of them
are pretty thin, and C3 spec' to boot. I don't know if C3 is a global
standard, but it is for precision bearings.
I'm guessing that a bearing couldn't be found that didn't get in the way of
the assembly bolts, and a split-bodied center may not have had the
necessary strength?
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
TdS Report #67: Photos - Plug-in Prius
Photographs from the Tour de Sol:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005/photos_017.html
Plug-in Prius
<PRE>
Team Name: Valence Technology, Inc.
</PRE>
Powered by the Valence U-Charge* Power System, this concept plug-in
hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) is a fully functional concept car based
on a 2004 Toyota Prius that was modified by EnergyCS. Because the
Valence battery offers much more energy than batteries traditionally
used in hybrid vehicles, it allows significant amounts of
zero-emission driving and fuel efficiencies of 120-180 mpg.
It just looks like a normal 2004 Prius.
But what does that graphic on the door say?
"125 MPG / 50 km per liter"
Without the sign, how would you know?
- - - -
The complete set of Tour de Sol Reports for 2005 can be found at:
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com/TdS_Reports_2005
The complete set of past Tour de Sol Reports can be found at:
http://www.FovealSystems.com/Tour_de_Sol_Reports.html
- - - -
The above is Copyright 2005 by Michael H. Bianchi.
Permission to copy is granted provided the entire article is presented
without modification and this notice remains attached.
For other arrangements, contact me at +1-973-822-2085 .
- - - -
For more on the NESEA Tour de Sol, see the web page at
http://www.TourdeSol.org
- - - -
Official NESEA Tour de Sol information is available from the sponsor,
the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association (NESEA) at
413 774-6051 , and 50 Miles Street, Greenfield, MA 01301 , and
[EMAIL PROTECTED] . All media enquiries should be addressed to ...
Jack Groh
Tour de Sol Communications Director
P.O. Box 6044
Warwick, RI 02887-6044
401 732-1551
401 732-0547 fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I got it made into a DivX file. 700 megs.. Looks great full
screen!(and it should considering the size..)
The site I uploaded it too has a 500 meg limit on file size, so I had
to split it in two. I used the rar format for the split. You'll need
both parts to get it too play. The first 350 meg part took five and a
half hours to upload at an ISP capped rate of 61 KB/sec. If you can
download at 300 or 400+ KB/sec, you'll have this downloaded in no
time..
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=05YKSSU6
That is the first part, I'll post again with the link to the second
part after it gets uploaded.
If anyone wants this made in a smaller file size and knows what
settings to use, let me know and I'll redo it.
If anyone is on a modem and can't download this, let me know if you
want the 700 meg DivX file on a CD, or for me to make a VCD or DVD of
the recording and send to you.
I could also upload it to Usenet if you know how to get files off
there, or to an FTP, or some other website. This was the only one I
found that allowed large file uploads. Most others had 50 or 100 meg
limits(I could chop it up into many parts if need be..).
I've still got the original copy on the DVR box. If you have some
ideal or perfect settings for http://www.virtualdub.org/ or
http://www.tmpgenc.net/ let me know.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
James wrote:
> Pressing the armature off in order to replace the center bearing sounds a
> lot of work,
Say for instance that the shaft was locked, and enough load was put on
the armature; what's to keep it from spinning on the shaft?
http://www.imagehosting.us/himages/ihnp-510863.jpg
How's it held in place?
Also, why don't they make the motor frame out of aluminum?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Otmar wrote:
My 914 runs all the battery power through a 50mv 500A shunt and it
doesn't even get discolored. I have the same type of shunt on the
motor side. That one regularly has to take 2000 amps for 20 seconds.
It is a bit purple in the middle of the resistive element, but last I
checked was still accurate.
500 amps is the continuous rating, they can take much more than that
for a short time.
--
-Otmar-
Thanks Otmar for the information. It's good to know I *could* use this
500A 50mV shunt. Then my e-meter readings wouldn't be skewed by 2x.
But without this 1000 amp e-meter software version I've been hearing
about, and all my 1000 amp drags around town :), my amp-hour readings
would probably get out of whack. Does anyone know how to hack the code
on e-meters? I've contacted Xantrex to see about an upgrade in the
software, but we'll see.
-Ryan
--
- EV Source -
Zillas, PFC Chargers, and coming soon: *WarP Motors*!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Disclaimer: No connection to JEGS. I was looking through a JEGS
catalog, and they have some things that could be useful to EVers
(http://www.jegs.com).
They have:
Optima batteries
Screw on cable ends (grips the cable by squeezing)
Battery cables
Battery quick disconnects
Smart 12V chargers
Drag racing safety on/off switches
Skinny, lightweight, low rolling resistance tires (for the front
tires of drag racers)
Skinny, lightweight rims
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On May 17, 2005, at 9:36 AM, David Roden (Akron OH USA) wrote:
On 17 May 2005 at 8:12, Paul Wujek wrote:
More info on 'Happy Messenger' available here:
http://www.qyev.com/english/zycp/xl.html
Cool. I've always wanted a Rattery Electric Vehicle. <g>
The English home page does show something that looks rather like an
Echo, but the
other photos on the website (if you're patient enough to wait for
them) don't. What
they show is boxier and green, and from the underhood shots is
definitely an EV. No
idea what the Echo style car is.
Hmmm.... the green car is shown in several settings, looking
suspiciously similar in each one. Closer inspection shows that they
appear to all be reflecting the same forest setting in their windows.
Of course none of the pictures on the website shows any trees nearby.
Also, note that the car is probably not designed as an EV and is an ICE
conversion, unless it requires that huge radiator to cool off the
passengers while it's sitting in the desert in the first shot.
The pictures are here: http://www.qyev.com/english/zycp/tu.html
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, the power loss is Defined by I squared times R where R is the voltage
divided by the voltage.
In this case 50 mV divided by 500 amps is .1 milliohms.
The power loss at 500 amps is 500 times 500 divided by .1 milliohms for a
power loss of 25 watts.
Yes, you can use a Hall effect sensor. An example is
http://www.lemusa.com/category/1
The advantage of these is the output is isolated therefore the sensor can be
inserted into either the positive or negative cable. The disadvantages are
ability to control the zero offset, the cost and the standby power
consumption.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: Another e-meter question...Lee?
> Otmar wrote:
>
> > My 914 runs all the battery power through a 50mv 500A shunt
>
> Is there any power loss associated with splicing a shunt into the main
> cable? Is it resistive?
>
> Is there any alternative to using shunts for measuring amps?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here's the second link:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=02VPT1J8 (333.5 megs)
First link if you missed it:
> http://www.megaupload.com/?d=05YKSSU6 (350 megs)
WinRAR: http://www.rarlab.com/
Codec:
http://www.divx.com/ or http://www.free-codecs.com/download/FFDShow.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On May 20, 2005, at 1:02 PM, Ryan Stotts wrote:
I wonder what the story is behind the development of this product and
how it came to be?
http://img134.echo.cx/img134/2773/optima5cy.jpg
(page 35, July 2005, Car Craft)
How did John Wayland get his nickname again? :)
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi everyone,
This is one for those who are using Siemens systems:
I'm trying to get an old laptop to load and run SIADIS
so can try communicating with my inverter, but not
being a DOS guy, I'm having trouble getting the right
DOS environment going to make SIADIS happy.
Specifically, I can get the laptop to boot from a DOS
floppy, with himem.sys and emm386.exe loaded (I think)
But when I type "siadis" to load the software, I get
a partial error message on screen ( can't read it all,
it seems to start off-screen ) saying something about
"available expanded memory -1k"
Then SIADIS loads, says "Customer version 3.11",
and asks me to choose a project file to load.
Whatever I do from this point on, it hangs trying to
access the floppy - it's just stuck, with the floppy drive
spinning. I have to use the power switch to shut it off.
I think it's something to do with expanded memory.
Can anyone give me autoexec.bat and config.sys files
that are known to work with SIADIS, so I can see where
I'm going wrong? I don't need anything fancy, just floppy
access and the right memory environment.
I'm using an Acer Travelmate 212 laptop (an old celeron CPU)
Man, I **HATE** MSDOS...
Thanks,
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI Ryan
it was talked about awhile back about using a voltage divider across the
shunt (I think this was my Idea I think) . Using two 10 ohm resistors in
series with each end going to the small screws on the shunt , then hook one
of the current sense wires to the middle of the two resistors .You will have
to 2x your amp and ah reads ,. I'm not surprised at the people who said
you couldn't put an e meter in the middle of the pack without giving the
reasons as this is kind of asking or problems , I've used them this way a
few time but I had my reasons. You can't do it and use the voltage scalar
FOR SURE , you will need an isolated power supply to power the meter FOR
SURE but if all you need is amp and amp hours then the current shunt
"could" go anywhere in the pack . Another problem with this set up is that
the meter with out any voltage input doesn't seem to track right ( ah )
when charging . So all in all you would need a very good reason ,
Like maybe having two different batteries packs ( of different kinds ) that
are in series and one being contactored in and out of line for testing and
a e meter set up on each pack. could happen :-)
Steve Clunn , a guy who got to taste the cake before the party , wish I
could tell you how sweet it is ( fat free to )
www.grassrootsev.com
. ,
Thanks Otmar for the information. It's good to know I *could* use this
500A 50mV shunt. Then my e-meter readings wouldn't be skewed by 2x. But
without this 1000 amp e-meter software version I've been hearing about,
and all my 1000 amp drags around town :), my amp-hour readings would
probably get out of whack. Does anyone know how to hack the code on
e-meters? I've contacted Xantrex to see about an upgrade in the software,
but we'll see.
-Ryan
--
- EV Source -
Zillas, PFC Chargers, and coming soon: *WarP Motors*!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> James wrote:
James wrote:
What was the decider for the center bearing arrangement?
Pressing the armature off in order to replace the center bearing
sounds a lot of work, was it not possible to get a bearing with
internal diameter to clear the rotor with an outside diameter that
was useable?
*The need for the cheapest, easiest, quickest ways to retrofit these
two motors into a single shafted motor. I thought a lot about other
options here, (Higher Tech / Higher dollar) or (no middle bearing at
all) John insisted on a middle bearing so I opted to use existing
materials. On John's Advance motors, OEM they hold the D.E. plate
true on the outside of the housing. I simply machined one of his
existing D.E. plates to fit on the inside of the 2nd housing opposite
the outer gripping side, and this becomes the middle bearing and fan
plate. I like the inside aligning style as it has a solid lip that
runs the full depth of the plate and is much stronger than grabbing
it the outside way. Leaving just a 1/8" thick outer edge lip to hold
the plate true could be broken much easier. As you stated if / when,
his middle bearing goes bad it will be a bit difficult getting an
armature off just to change a bearing, but
1)He ran 4 seasons with these and I found just 1 (smaller) C.E.
bearing that was getting rough. (In 4 years he will be using triple
9's or something other than these. lol)
2)I believed this occurred only because his motors were not truly
aligned putting stress there.
3)I've pressed these armatures on and off shafts for 24 years now and
it's easier for me to do this than buy a high dollar unit and then
still have to fit it in.
4)By using an OEM part I know all my holes align together and keep
coils aligned inline with each other. And is my cheapest option.
Remember I consider this unit to be a proto type design just to see
if everything will work like we hope it will. I feel as if I'm now
falling a little behind in the project, do to shop load, and that we
devoted time to completing the yellow beast. We are now into June
and the need to get John up and running is ever pressing. There are
many, many things that will not happen on this pair, just do to a
need to get them on the track this year. Also the middle bearing
area will be pressed onto the shaft with the same force used to keep
armatures on.
James wrote:
Say for instance that the shaft was locked, and enough load was put on
the armature; what's to keep it from spinning on the shaft?
*The custom shaft made by Keith at Dutchman's is a work of art (I
call it Excalibur and swing it around the shop, hehehe). It is
different in design from OEM style shafts though, and is another
proto type design.
If you stall these armatures (let alone at high voltages) it will
either burn the comm. With stall marks and burn up your armatures, or
they could spin loose from the shaft. I've seen lots of spun loose
armatures over the years.
Whether these armatures stay put we'll just have to see.
Lastly, I had intended that to be an E-mail just for John to give him
a status of what was left to do, (My apologies to John and or the
group).
Hope this gives you some insight as to your why questions.
Thanks all
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> See the Power of DC website for more details.
>
> Feel free to contact me for further information about the race.
>
> Chip Gribben
> NEDRA Power of DC
> http://www.powerofdc,com
>
I'm looking for information about cheap lodging in the area and the link on the
page doesn't work.
Is there any camping in the area? On the grounds at the strip?
Not sure if I can make it but I'm going to try.
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: The Discovery EV program
> Without getting into another pissing match I will just state that I will
> stand by my decisions and designs and just repeat what Dennis Berube says:
> "The truth is in the time slips." I will also stand on my world records.
> Instead of talking Rich, why don't you just see if you can get Goldie into
> the 14s at Woodburn.
>
> Roderick Wilde
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> www.suckamps.com
>
Oh Sorry Rod
Both my EVs still run.
And I am offering to take GP into the 14s and lower...If you let me.
Madman
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
IT was shot down as too heavy and too expensive.
The Standard Pick up lay out would have had the advantage of not breaking as
easily... But I agree that adding another ton of steel might not have been
the best idea.
I was all for it for a while...It would a be good drop in point of another
try at it.
But there's no way we could impliment it in Gp right now. It would be a
total redesign.
It's about the only off the shelf design that could take 500 ft lbs of
torque and 300 Hp on the front end and not cost 5K$
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: The Discovery EV program
> Rich
> Did anyone consider taking out the wrong wheel drive IFS and trying a 4
> wheel drive truck-type front axel? Less handling, more grunt?
>
> David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
> Children need love, especially when they do not deserve it.
> - Harold S.
> Hulbert
> >The Woodruff key looked about the size of the key in my 4 hp 36v/80 amp
> > floor scrubber motor.
> You aughta see the keys that are in there now!!!!
> Still we need splines and a super stought center bearings.
> We use #40 tripple row industrial chains, one set on each side.
> Then broke all both half shafts... then got M300 steel shafts... then
broke
> the front tranny...
> It sits dead in the water in Rod's storage unit in Port Townsend.
> >
> > You wanted other opinions???
> >
> > You got mine
> >
> > Madman.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All I am looking is the copy of the law that was originally posted. In
reading section 406(b) it contradicts 406(a). The law is rarely consistent,
and you may find that you can be charged under one section while another
completely exonerates you.
No need to argue the point with me, time is better spent arguing with a cop
or a judge if they decide to charge you under 406(b).
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: Rodriguez, Jennifer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: June 3, 2005 3:03 PM
To: Don Cameron; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Selling scooters, Cal Law change
Here is section 406(a) quoted directly from the CA Vehicle Code website:
406. (a) A "motorized bicycle" or "moped" is any two-wheeled or
three-wheeled device having fully operative pedals for propulsion by human
power, or having no pedals if powered solely by electrical energy, and an
automatic transmission and a motor which produces less than 2 gross brake
horsepower and is capable of propelling the device at a maximum speed of not
more than 30 miles per hour on level ground.
By this definition, my moped is a motorized bicycle - the section even
states that a moped and a motorized bicycle are the same thing. See the top
speed listed as 30 mph. Here's the link:
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d01/vc406.htm
Jenn
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Cameron [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 11:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Selling scooters, Cal Law change
Jenn, read the motorized bicycle section closer. The law clearly states
"motorized bicycle cannot go faster than 20 mph" and "A motorized bicycle
may be driven in a bicycle lane on a roadway...". If your moped "can" go
faster than 20mph, it is **not** a motorized bicycle.
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rodriguez, Jennifer
Sent: June 3, 2005 10:53 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; EV Discussion List
Subject: RE: Selling scooters, Cal Law change
Wait a minute, in your quote below, you actually wrote (as I cut and paste
from your section below):
"A motorized bicycle may be driven in a bicycle lane on a roadway at a
reasonable speed and with special care for bicyclists using the lane."
And then you conclude that riding a moped (a.k.a a motorized bicycle as per
section 406 which you also quoted) in the bike lane is NOT legal. I'll take
the DMV code you quoted over your personal analysis, in this case. From the
vehicle code, it is definitely legal to ride a moped/motorized bicycle in
the bike lane.
Perhaps you are confusing bike lanes with bike paths, their off-the-roadway
cousins.
Jenn
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 8:36 PM
To: EV Discussion List
Subject: RE: Selling scooters, Cal Law change
<<< Unless you have bike plenty of lanes around, in which case, you're a lot
better off than an NEV because they are not allowed in bike lanes. This
is why I got a moped-class scooter, instead of an NEV. I commute to
work on a 45mph expressway, but I ride in the bike lane. Works great! >>>
There may be a bit of confusion on the bike lane legality:
[Vehicle Code (VC) �406(a) defines a motorized bicycle, commonly called a
moped,
as a two- or three-wheeled vehicle which can be temporarily propelled by
pedals
or by an electric motor. An automatic transmission connects the wheels to an
engine which produces less than 2 gross brake horsepower. It has a top speed
of
30 miles per hour on level ground.
A motorized bicycle is also defined (VC �406[b]) as a device which has fully
operative pedals for human propulsion and has an electric motor with an
output
of not more than 1,000 watts and cannot be driven at a speed of more than 20
mph on level ground. The motorized bicycle cannot go faster than 20 mph even
if
assisted by human power. These vehicles must operate so the electric motor
is
disengaged when the brakes are applied or when the starter switch or
mechanism
is released. A motorized bicycle may not be driven on a freeway, bicycle
path
or trail, equestrian trail, or hiking or recreation trail unless the path or
trail is on, or next to, a roadway or permission to use the trail or roadway
is
granted by local ordinance. A motorized bicycle may be driven in a bicycle
lane
on a roadway at a reasonable speed and with special care for bicyclists
using
the lane.]
It appears riding a moped (VC �406[a]) in the bicycle lane is NOT legal,
while
riding an ebike (VC �406[b]) or a scooter (the type with a 15mph top speed)
in
the bike lane is.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not at all OT!
DOS version 6.2
CONFIG.SYS
----------
DEVICE=C:\DOS\SETVER.EXE
DEVICE=C:\C:\DOS\HIMEM.SYS
DOS=HIGH
FILES=30
AUTOEXEC.BAT
------------
C:\DOS\SMARTDRV.EXE /X
@ECHO OFF
PROMPT $p$g
PATH C:\DOS
SET TEMP=C:\DOS
cd c:\siadis
siadis
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
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From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Richard Bebbington
Sent: June 5, 2005 4:41 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: More SIADIS questions...(slightly OT)
Hi everyone,
This is one for those who are using Siemens systems:
I'm trying to get an old laptop to load and run SIADIS so can try
communicating with my inverter, but not being a DOS guy, I'm having trouble
getting the right DOS environment going to make SIADIS happy.
Specifically, I can get the laptop to boot from a DOS floppy, with himem.sys
and emm386.exe loaded (I think)
But when I type "siadis" to load the software, I get a partial error message
on screen ( can't read it all, it seems to start off-screen ) saying
something about "available expanded memory -1k"
Then SIADIS loads, says "Customer version 3.11", and asks me to choose a
project file to load.
Whatever I do from this point on, it hangs trying to access the floppy -
it's just stuck, with the floppy drive spinning. I have to use the power
switch to shut it off.
I think it's something to do with expanded memory.
Can anyone give me autoexec.bat and config.sys files that are known to work
with SIADIS, so I can see where I'm going wrong? I don't need anything
fancy, just floppy access and the right memory environment.
I'm using an Acer Travelmate 212 laptop (an old celeron CPU)
Man, I **HATE** MSDOS...
Thanks,
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
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Okay, here is the complete word on mopeds in bicycle lanes in
California, from the DMV Vehicle Code website. I will add asterisks to
highlight the relevant bits, because I don't know if this list supports
rich text for bolding. I've included the links to the vehicle code at
the bottom.
The first is section 406, which defines a motorized bicycle, the second
is section 21207.5 which defines where a motorized bicycle may NOT ride,
the third is section 21209 which defines at which times a motorized
vehicle can drive in a bicycle lane.
If anyone has a LINK to a section of the CA VEHICLE CODE that says that
one type of motorized bicycle is allowed in the bike lane while another
type isn't, or that registered mopeds are not allowed, I'd be very
interested to see it. I have not found that written anywhere in the
law.
As a personal anecdote, I was pulled over by a sheriff for riding in the
bike lane once, because he thought I was a gasser, although he could see
my moped license plate. He approached me and the first thing he said
was, "I'm confused...". I told him that I was registered as a moped
because I was powered solely by electrical energy. He said, "Okay, I
just thought maybe you were broken down." He got back into his car and
I went on my way in the bike lane and he went on his way on the road.
406. (a) A "motorized bicycle" or "moped" is any two-wheeled or
three-wheeled device having fully operative pedals for propulsion by
human power, ***or having no pedals if powered solely by electrical
energy, and an automatic transmission and a motor which produces less
than 2 gross brake horsepower and is capable of propelling the device at
a maximum speed of not more than 30 miles per hour on level ground.***
(b) A "motorized bicycle" is also a device that has fully operative
pedals for propulsion by human power and has an electric motor that
meets all of the following requirements:
(1) Has a power output of not more than 1,000 watts.
(2) Is incapable of propelling the device at a speed of more than 20
miles per hour on ground level.
(3) Is incapable of further increasing the speed of the device when
human power is used to propel the motorized bicycle faster than 20 miles
per hour.
21207.5. Notwithstanding Sections 21207 and 23127 of this code, or any
other provision of law, no motorized bicycle may be operated on a
bicycle path or trail, bikeway, bicycle lane established pursuant to
Section 21207, equestrian trail, or hiking or recreational trail,
***unless it is within or adjacent to a roadway*** or unless the local
authority or the governing body of a public agency having jurisdiction
over such path or trail permits, by ordinance, such operation.
21209. (a) No person shall drive a motor vehicle in a bicycle lane
established on a roadway pursuant to Section 21207 except as follows:
(1) To park where parking is permitted.
(2) To enter or leave the roadway.
(3) To prepare for a turn within a distance of 200 feet from the
intersection.
(b) ***This section does not prohibit the use of a motorized bicycle in
a bicycle lane, pursuant to Section 21207.5, at a speed no greater than
is reasonable or prudent, having due regard for visibility, traffic
conditions, and the condition of the roadway surface of the bicycle
lane, and in a manner which does not endanger the safety of
bicyclists.***
Here are the links, in case you doubt my cutting and pasting skills:
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d01/vc406.htm
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21207_5.htm
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21209.htm
Jenn
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What have I got here? I hooked it up and thought I was lucky to get the
motor direction right with the fan sucking air in at the brushes and out the
vent holes. I thought I'd reverse the polarity and see what it sounded
like. Suprise, the motor still rotated CCW. Is this a shunt motor? It
has marked A & F connections. (ND 4.5KW. 23v 5 minute rate.) Just two. No
other connections. Large Brushes with plenty of life left. Ran great on
8v. Very smooth. Should make a good MC motor. Just a little larger than
an A89. Maybe a Fiat 600 conversion? Thanks for any info on this Motor.
It came from a Toyota Electric Forklift from the 70's.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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http://www.craigslist.org/pen/car/77051784.html
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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Resending, message apparently wasn't delivered yesterday.
Balkamp Battery Acid Filler -- Battery Filler, Automatic,2 Quart
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15616588
Is this a good solution for routine watering of flooded lead acid batteries?
It says "Acid Filler", but it looks like it would work for just adding
water... and also seems like it would make the process faster and easier.
Glenn
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes about a Prius plug-in upgrade:
...a 250 pound, 9 kiloWatt-hour Valence Saphion lithium ion battery
system, with our own EnergyCS control system on top of it. EnergyCS is
working with a company in Los Angles called Clean Tech to start a new
company called EDrive Systems which will commercialize this system. We
expect that by early 2006 we will have a upgrade option for sale, between
$10,000 to $12,000. Right now the batteries alone cost more than that.
But we are working on ways to integrate it and repackage it, and Valence
is working on new chemistries and packaging methods for the battery cells
and modules, to bring it down to that price point...
Very cool. One of these packs would work nicely for a small short-range
conversion, too. At 250 lbs all the weight and suspension headaches go
away! Hopefully they can be persuaded to make a general-purpose version
of the system.
Steve Gaarder
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Ryan-
Do you have any idea what your expected battery current profile or duty
cycle will be?
I mean, if you really will only see >500amps on acceleration, and only for
perhaps 3 seconds, and if that acceleration is only expected to occur, on
average, once per minute, then you're looking at only a 5% duty cycle over
500amps.
In that case, I'd say, stick with your 50mv/500amp shunt and don't sweat the
inaccuracy impact on battery charge due to Emeter reading 511 instead of
800amps for a second or two.
You may want to have a higher power 50mv/500amp shunt though.
-Myles Twete
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: Argggggggg. Another Wrecked electric vehicle
> I think we are mixing our wrecks.
> http://home.jps.net/~bassoon/WreckElectravan/DSC00033.JPG This is not an
> electrathon vehicle but it is an Electravan. LR.........>
Hi EVerybody;
Now we have our Rex streightened out. Oops that sorta slipped out<g>! The
Electravan sure doesn't looked "wrecked" to me! The body looks fine, repairs
are needed to fix the droopy bumper. Bolts sheared?Or if that was in New
England, home of Rust-O-Matic, there wouldn't be any frame left to hold the
bumper up in place. Get out the Mig or Tig, and build up a new set of frame
rails, start from there. But in FS, CA rust isn't the plague like here. You
still have clean Rabbits to convert! I hafta do some serious remedial rust
repairs on mine.
Seeya at Power of DC
Bob
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On May 25, 2005, at 9:05 AM, Mark Farver wrote:
So ignoring all the reasons why this will not work, excessive cost, or
is just plain a dumb idea:
------
From this year's new car models what would you most want as a new EV?
------
Other contenders might be the radical looking but spacious Scion xB
and xA, the high resale value Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla or from the
American's the Chevy Aveo or Ford Focus.
What, no Neon? I see those things all over the place, and there seems
to be a healthy aftermarket in performance parts. They're not
bad-looking, either. The most sensible choice?
The Ford Focus sedan is really ugly, but the hatchback is not
objectionable (IMHO). I prefer hatchbacks to sedans anyway - more
versatile. This one would probably be my choice.
For fun, I like the Toyota MR2 Spyder convertible. Too expensive, not
a lot of room for batteries, but fun. Mid-engine layout makes stowing
batteries somewhat tricky, but Porsche 914 conversions show it's
possible. Did I mention fun?
It looks like an impossible task, but if enough batteries could be
crammed into a Mini, it would be really cool. There's now a
convertible Mini, which really helps to make a small car seem bigger to
the driver and passenger but probably eats even more interior space.
The Honda Insight? Most efficient car around, and already partly
converted. Probably have the best range.
The Prius? See above, with four doors and a back seat.
As you can see, my opinions are rather shallow. I haven't done any
research on new cars, since I'm happy with my five-year-old Subaru and
I'm working on a 30-year-old Karmann Ghia conversion. I'm basing my
response on what the cars look like, and my own almost unconscious
appraisal of every car I see for its suitability for an EV conversion.
Here's another way to compare - price:
http://www.invoicedealers.com/cars/reviews/Cheap-Cars.asp
Efficiency:
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/103325/article.html
So let me know your thoughts and feel free to mail me privately if
you'd like.
I don't know why, but the Hyundai Tiburon haunts me. For some reason
I'd like to have one as an EV. No idea why.
Thanks,
Mark Farver
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
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--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> What have I got here? I hooked it up and thought I was lucky to
get the
> motor direction right with the fan sucking air in at the brushes
and out the
> vent holes. I thought I'd reverse the polarity and see what it
sounded
> like. Suprise, the motor still rotated CCW. Is this a shunt
motor? It
> has marked A & F connections. (ND 4.5KW. 23v 5 minute rate.) Just
two. No
> other connections.
Response:
A motor with only 2 terminals means you've got a pump motor and it
will only run one direction. Unless it's a permanent magnet motor,
it won't reverse when you switch the "A" and "F" posts. With
forklift motors, a pump motors design has an internal connection that
locks one side of the field coil set to one side of a brush ring and
brush pair. It could be modified to reverse but you'd have to
disconnect the internal connection that jumps the field coils to the
brush ring. Look for a small cable jumper running from the field
coils that is screwed down to one of the brush holders. If you
separate this connection you create 2 extra terminal connection
spots. Remove that jumper and attach a piece of cable there to use
as a terminal this becomes "A2". The cable attached to the field
coils can be used as is, (or by extending it for easier connecting)
and becomes "F2". Connect "A2" to "F2" and you've reconnected you
motor, as it was, CCW with batteries still connecting at the now "A1
and F1" terminals. Switch "A1" with "A2" making "A2" now going to
battery and "A1" now jumping to "F2" the motor will now go CW. If
your connection is solid in nature, and not a cable lead jumper it
becomes a bigger fix.
Hopes this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
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