EV Digest 4448
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Oozing Motor?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2) Another BC-20 Question
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) cheap NIMH AA's
by Carl Clifford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Welding on the cheap, Elec-Trak Welder
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) MASM
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Welding on the cheap
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: MASM
by "Ed Koffeman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Oozing Motor?
by Tom Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Oozing Motor? - where to get bearings
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Another BC-20 Question
by jimevdl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Oozing Motor? - where to get bearings
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Welding on the cheap
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: cheap NIMH AA's
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Welding on the cheap
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Fwd: Re: Oozing Motor?
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Oozing Motor?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Heat sinking a Curtis controller?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) RE: Oozing Motor?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Welding on the cheap
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Another BC-20 Question
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Pulsed Tig, was Re: Welding
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: cheap NIMH AA's
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) article: rMOTO Electric Superbike Expected in January 2006
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: MASM
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: MASM
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 6/21/05 6:22:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Subj: Re: Oozing Motor?
Date: 6/21/05 6:22:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (STEVE CLUNN)
Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-to: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
.
>
> I just had my ADC 9 apart and I had a little more trouble than you
> mentioned. I needed a puller to
> get the housing/bearing off the shaft, it was a VERY tight fit.
a couple of tricks come to mind here, one is to warm ( warm not over hear)
the alumanam plate , for getting the bearing off the shaft , you can
carfully cut it with a 4 and 1/2 cutting wheel on you hand grinder, just cut
a slot in the outter race and a little prying will let the inside of the
bearing fall out , now you have the inner race on the shaft , do the same
thing being carful not to grind into the motor shaft ,
When I reassembled them, the
> bearing did not seat on the shaft by itself. The shaft and the bearing
> inner race were clean and
> smooth, no reason for binding. I do not have a press, so I had to
> carefully tap the inner race
> with a hammer and punch to get it to seat.
heat again might have helped , but not to much, tapping the inner race is
good ,
At least I hope it seated. If the bearing does not go
> onto the shaft all the way, it will jam the rotor against the brush
> housing.
Yes this is most important.
steve clunn
www.grassrootsev.com
Make sure you spin
> the rotor as you tighten it back together to check for binding. I did not
> change the bearings, so
> I assume that it was the original bearing. The other end went together
> much easier, no problem
> getting the comm end bearing to fit. Don't foget the wave spring on the
> comm end
>
> Dave >>
>>>>>>>>>>I would replace both bearings and also ck for a possible grounded
armature.I have seen a current path through a bearing before.Use shielded
bearings for hi speeds sealed for the lo rpm motors.D.Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The fully-charged voltage of my TS pack will be 148.75V. I've measured the
AC in our home, and it's 120V, meaning that the peak voltage is around 168V
(120 * 1.4). Without the LB-20 Line Booster, the BC-20 is rated to handle
packs up 108V nominal, charged to 2.5V per cell, meaning around 135V on full
charge.
What I'm wondering is that if I take the stock BC-20 without the LB-20 and
install the resistor that tells it to charge a 120V nominal pack instead of
a 108V pack, will it still charge my TS pack, but just with falling current
as the TS pack nears full and the charger can't keep up the higher current?
If so, this might be a good thing, because when charging the TS pack, I want
the current to be reduced at the end anyway.
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Could you string/parallel together enough of these to make a scooter?
They're durned cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001FZCQQ/ref%3Dnosim/bensbargaicenter/103-7496192-8191039
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I use my Elec-Trak welder (I kept after selling my two E-15 Elec-Traks with
pre-Apollo wiring removed, converted to Club Car controls) and it's just a
nichrome sheath wire that I jumper clip to 36-48V golf cart for welding.
Omega sells nichrome wire, I think it's about 1 ohm about 1500W coil inside
a metal vented case and had a couple taps. Maybe an old golf cart tapped
speed control nichrome coil might work as well.
Mark www.solectrol.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 11:30 PM
Subject: RE: Welding on the cheap
> Chris, what I did before I purchased a TIG was to take some lessons from
> the local college. It will give you **great** appreciation for how good a
> welder can be, and for hands on experience. Maybe a patient guy at the
place
> you work can stay late for a couple of hours and show you how it is done.
> It is great to get your hands dirty and see how hard it is (or easy if you
> have HF start).
>
> The first time I tried TIG, I used my MIG reversed as a power source.
What
> a complete failure. The freekin thing was sticking all the time. So I
> completely gave up and just did MIG (aka metal "glue gun"). After a
number
> of years of complaining "TIG is too hard", I asked a good friend (who just
> happened to be the welding director at the local college) for some
lessons.
> In four hours he got me going, then sent me home to practise and practise.
> It was night and day difference, I was easily welding Steel, SS and
Aluminum
> by the end of the session.
>
> I purchased the cheapest AC unit (Lincoln 185), but it still cost $2000
USD.
> However, like you know eBay and welding shops do get used units.
>
> Keep in mind, the torch is the cheap half of a TIG, the power unit is the
> expensive half. Both are required. DC for steel with HF start. AC HF
for
> aluminum.
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Chris Seeley
> Sent: June 20, 2005 7:01 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: Welding on the cheap
>
> James, Gadget, Don, and all
>
> Thanks for the comments.
>
> I think I will scour ebay, and see what I can dig up.
>
> Some food for thought, the welders at the machine shop I work at,
suggested
> that I try helium for dc tig welding aluminum, if ac is not available.
They
> use pure helium, or a helium, argon mixture when welding very thick and
> large pieces of aluminum, in a production setting requiring higher
currents.
> They say, that the helium produces a wider, deeper penetration, and a
hotter
> arc, that allows them to weld faster. None of them had tried DC Tiging
> aluminum, they said, however, that they had heard that it produces
> structurally good, but not pretty, welds when pure helium is used for a
> shielding gas.
>
> I would be mainly welding steel, but there will be times, that it would be
> nice to do aluminum. I have found a few second hand TIG torches on ebay.
> I'm going to play around, (that is if they stay reasonably priced). I am
> also going to try to talk one of the welders at work into testing the DC
> Helium thing. We'll see, and post back the results.
>
> James, I am also interested in the Homebrew tips that you have mentioned.
>
> Again thanks all for your tips and suggestions, much appreciated!!
>
> Sorry for the duplicate post?, and the request read receipt!
>
>
>
>
> Chris Seeley
>
> www.seeleydesign.com, www cmswebhosting.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Massey [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 6:49 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Welding on the cheap
>
> Hi Chris (and all)
>
> At 01:31 PM 20/06/05 -0400, Chris wrote:
> >Sorry to post off topic, and to continue on this welding stuff, but you
> >folks have talked me into getting a welding outfit. I will be needing
> >something to get started on my EV project!!!
> >
> >Now I am trying to save a little money here!!!
>
> No harm in that.
>
> >So if you guys can tell me if this is feasible....
> >
> >I have noticed that most all TIG welders also advertise that they are
> >stick welders too... Does this work both ways??
>
> Sort of. The heart of any TIG welder is just a stick welder... but then
> there is a fair bit of extra stuff to complicate the issue.
>
> >Can I buy a good TIG torch , and connect it to an AC arc welder, and
> >have it work?
>
> Yes, but very poorly. For ferrous metals, DC TIG is the way to go. Scratch
> starting the torch often breaks off the tip of a carefully sharpened
> tungsten electrode (pain when needing a sharp tip for small and fine
work),
> but once the arc is established, away you go. AC takes the current to zero
> with each cycle of the mains, making it hard to keep the arc established
> (more on this further down).
>
> >Here is my thoughts. I mostly want to weld steel, and aluminum. I
> >would like to have a TIG welder, but the ones that are AC/DC are way
> >out of my price range!!!
>
> Hunt around for secondhand bits, and buy or build the DC and HF adaptors.
>
> >I thought about getting the one at harbor freight for about $200, but
> >no AC. I am told that you can tig aluminum with DC, using helium as a
> >shielding gas, but it isn't pretty?? Do any of you have experience
> >there??
>
> No-one I know of uses Helium as a shielding gas, and as a service agent
for
> welding gear (amongst other things), I have encountered a lot of welding
> people. Why do they not use it? Don't know, but there has to be a good
> reason.
>
> >Anyway,,,what I was thinking is buying a TIG Kit, such as the one here.
> >http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p002770.htm
> >And then connecting it to any arc welder.
>
> That kit looks like a 170Amp air-cooled torch (actually most of the
cooling
> is from the shielding gas) which would be a bit light for Aluminium
welding,
> except in short bursts or on smaller parts. Good for smaller ferrous
stuff,
> though.
>
> >Thanks for any suggestions.
> >
> >Chris Seeley
>
> OK, DC TIG uses stabilised DC to weld with - either "pure" DC from an
> inverter or rectified 1- or 2-phase or phase-controlled 3-phase AC that
has
> been put through a choke (inductor) to keep the current flowing.
>
> You can buy welding rectifiers for this purpose, makes 'stick' nicer to
use,
> too. All you need are a bridge rectifier and a suitably heavy inductor
> (Heavy in the size of wire it has on it). Adding capacitors if the
inductor
> is a bit light-on (inductance-wise) can help. Adding a capacitor on the
> output can help to ignite a TIG torch on scratch starting. Adding a HF
unit
> to use as HF start helps *enormously* to get going on small parts (turn
off
> the HF once arc is established).
>
> AC has the problem of arc current going to zero mentioned above. Good
> machines use HF to start, then a synthesised AC that is chopped from DC,
> "electronic square wave". This alows for changes to the average current to
> allow for more penetration (Amps 'into' the job) or more surface cleaning
> (amps 'out' of the job). Much more at
> http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_articles/ if you want to know
> more.
>
> For more conventional AC work (which is becoming more in the minority all
> the time) a High Frequency (HF) unit is used that runs throughout the weld
> time. A high-frequency unit consists of a high-voltage transformer that
has
> high output impedence similar to a neon-lighting transformer. Its' output
is
> around 3500VAC, and is used to charge up a capacitor, which discharges
> through a spark gap, many times each cycle. The discharge is dumped into a
> transformer that consists of a few turns of high-current wire in the torch
> output circuit, bypassed by a capacitor at the machine side.
>
> HF units, although more complex, can be built by home-hobbyists. I have
> encountered designs on the 'net, although some of them leave much to be
> desired. It also may be possible to find a dead TIG and steal the HF unit
> out of it and get it going.
>
> Oh, and HF units generate a LOT of electrical noise, kill control circuits
> in other welders whose work lead is clipped to the same job, wipe radio
> reception, frazzle computers, etc. And can kill - electrical safety needs
to
> be observed.
>
> James
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Back in the Mesozoic (when desktop computers were still called "IBM"
PC's--man, am I getting old), I used to program in assembler. I've got a PC
sitting around now that I'd like to use in DOS mode and write some assembler
on for my EV. Anybody know where I go to get a version of MASM these days
that doesn't require Windows? It seems like the one from Microsoft's site
runs only under Windows.
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
(I resend messages that don't go through after a few hours)
Many messages appear to go to message 'heaven'.
James,
I get lots of spam. I look at "Subject" and usually just delete.
All my EV messages go into my EV folder.
If I am not interested in a particular Subject, I ignore.
In the case of Welding, I have learned so much from others.
I vote keep it.
It s like Crimping, if you want to learn about Crimping, you open, if not,
ignore.
Subjects without any interest die on the vine.
My $0.02
BoyntonStu
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of James Massey
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 11:37 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Welding on the cheap
At 10:01 PM 20/06/05 -0400, you wrote:
>James, Gadget, Don, and all
>
>James, I am also interested in the Homebrew tips that you have mentioned.
>
>Chris Seeley
Can I have some indication of whether to continue this thread on-list,
please? Although welding is relevant to EV builders, roll-your-own welding
accessories are getting a bit off topic. If enough listees are interested,
then I guess that'd be a statement of being on-topic still.
Please don't tie up bandwidth to say "take it off list" as no responses
will indicate that. If only two or three want to keep it on-list then I'll
discuss homebrew welding accessories with them directly off-list. If more
than that request to keep the thread going then that's what we'll do.
So, do we keep this thread on-list?
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
May I gently suggest at the least use the free version of Borland Turbo C?
You'll probably be _way_ further ahead after even just one day of learning
C, than doing PC programming in MASM.
Ed Koffeman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Bill Dennis
> Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 10:08 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: MASM
>
> Back in the Mesozoic (when desktop computers were still called "IBM"
> PC's--man, am I getting old), I used to program in assembler. I've got a
> PC
> sitting around now that I'd like to use in DOS mode and write some
> assembler
> on for my EV. Anybody know where I go to get a version of MASM these days
> that doesn't require Windows? It seems like the one from Microsoft's site
> runs only under Windows.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nick Viera wrote:
Roger Stockton wrote:
If this is an ADC 9", then the drive end bearing is a KOYO 6207RS (35mm
id, 72mm od, 17mm thick), the comm end bearing is a Nachi 6305.
Thanks for providing the bearing numbers! Who sells these? I searched
for the KOYO bearing online and didn't see any sites selling them (at
least not in USD)?
Assuming you'll get the endbell off sooner or later...
A good source for bearings is McMaster-Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
As noted already, don't worry about the bearing manufacturer, just look
up by number. Those of us who own Elec-Traks tend to be pretty familiar
with changing bearings.
--
- Tom Coate
Purcellville, VA, USA
1970s Elec-Trak E20 36VDC
1993 Ford Escort Wagon 120 VDC
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
m thick), the comm end bearing is a Nachi 6305.
Thanks for providing the bearing numbers! Who sells these? I searched for
the KOYO bearing online and didn't see any sites selling them (at least
not in USD)?
Assuming you'll get the endbell off sooner or later...
A good source for bearings is McMaster-Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Or, you can probably get it locally in a bearing shop. Look under
"bearings" in the yellow pages. Another choice for local pickup is
Grainger's ( a national industrial supply chain) - if there's one near you.
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill,
I have a BC-20, but my pack is slightly lower, at 112V (14x8V). My line voltage
is about 120VAC as well.
It takes almost 10 hours to charge my pack to 136VDC. The BC-20 can indeed
provide the voltage at end of charge to reach even my equalization voltage
(forget off-hand, 145ish), but it takes a long time to get there.
While it's true that most of the time you have plenty of time to charge
overnight, I've learned that for convenience, I would prefer a bit less charge
time.
The good news is that I can get most of my bulk charging done at reasonable
currents (above 12A). To get 'er full up though, it's painfully slow. I'm sure
the BC-20 can charge your pack as well, and you can always add the xfmr later,
if the time is not what you can live with.
I'm planning to get the transformer one of these days, as I am looking to
upgrade to slightly higher voltage, and I want to get it capable before K&W
goes the way of DCP, and they are no longer available. Another option is one
that comes in a green box. I'm having charger-envy of my friends who can charge
from 220 in 3 hours.
One other comment while we're talking BC-20's: I melted my AC plug this
weekend. The BC's can deliver better than 20A, but unless you have a 20A plug
on the end, be sure to keep the current a bit lower.
Best regards, Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Dennis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Jun 21, 2005 9:38 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Another BC-20 Question
The fully-charged voltage of my TS pack will be 148.75V. I've measured the
AC in our home, and it's 120V, meaning that the peak voltage is around 168V
(120 * 1.4). Without the LB-20 Line Booster, the BC-20 is rated to handle
packs up 108V nominal, charged to 2.5V per cell, meaning around 135V on full
charge.
What I'm wondering is that if I take the stock BC-20 without the LB-20 and
install the resistor that tells it to charge a 120V nominal pack instead of
a 108V pack, will it still charge my TS pack, but just with falling current
as the TS pack nears full and the charger can't keep up the higher current?
If so, this might be a good thing, because when charging the TS pack, I want
the current to be reduced at the end anyway.
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have always been able to cross-reference bearings from ADC motors at my
local NAPA store.
.
Roy LeMeur
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.cloudelectric.com
http://www.dcelectricsupply.com
Cloud Electric Vehicles
19428 66th Ave So, Q-101
Kent, Washington 98032
phone: 425-251-6380
fax: 425-251-6381
Toll Free: 800-648-7716
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> No-one I know of uses Helium as a shielding gas, and
> as a service agent for
> welding gear (amongst other things), I have
> encountered a lot of welding
> people. Why do they not use it? Don't know, but
> there has to be a good reason.
I keep helium aroud for overhead work. it rises. I
uses argon on the reast it has more staying power as
it is a heavier gas and stays put a bit better than
helium and it is a little bit cheaper.(less expensive)
Gadget
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Probably not, how do I know? I've tried...
I built 4 blocks of 11 cells in series for ~12v and ~2Ah each.
Two blocks in series for 22 cells and ~24v, these in parallel
with another set for 4Ah total capacity, but I need 50Amps
for accelleration and these things just sag too much to dish
out the 10C+ levels of current. As I recall they had a tough
time keeping up at 1C or 2C, so 10C was out of the question.
They could just barely provide crusing current of about 12Amps
or 3C and then there's the charging issues with parallel NiMH
strings, each string needs to be charged independently, ouch.
Contrast this with the Prismatic Li-ion pack of 96 1Ah cells.
12 in parallel (no issues there) for ~12Ah (~10Ah delivered).
They do 4C or about 48Amps, just enough for accelleration.
Because of their higher voltage it only takes 8 cells to reach
~24v (more like 30v), as opposed to 22 series Ni cells, or 12
series PbA cells. I've got a few hunderead miles on my Li pack
and it's running great, even use it as a portable ~12v battery
for charging my cell and testing my Sevcon/E-Tek setup at ~24v.
L8r
Ryan
ps. If you can't tell I'm not much of a NiMH fan.
Carl Clifford wrote:
Could you string/parallel together enough of these to make a scooter?
They're durned cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001FZCQQ/ref%3Dnosim/bensbargaicenter/103-7496192-8191039
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
just keep your eyes open for a "freek box", also known
as a high frequency stabilizer. with that and an AC
welder you will be welding aluminum. I did that for
years. I just threw two of them away. I couldn't find
anyone to give them away too. so the junk man took
them. If you keep your eyes peeled one is sure to pop
up sooner or later.
Gadget
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Tom Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> A good source for bearings is McMaster-Carr:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
--- D.Berube wrote:
.Use shielded bearings for hi speeds sealed for the lo rpm motors.
I found them both in McMaster, about $5 cheaper each than Grainger and $10 less
than NAPA. They
did offer both double shielded and doubled sealed. Here's how they defined
shielded versus sealed.
Double-Shielded Bearings Steel shields on the sides keep out most
contaminants. Temperature range
is -20° to +350°F, unless noted.
Double-Sealed Bearings Buna-N (unless noted) seals on both sides touch the
inner race, blocking
out virtually all contaminants. Temperature range is -20° to +250°F
Seems the temperature and speed ratings favor the less expensive shielded
bearings. Any reason to
go with the more expensive sealed bearing?
PS They also offer a ceramic bearing that also provides electrical insulation,
less friction, less
heat buildup, higher speed rating, but at ten times the price.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
STEVE CLUNN [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> a couple of tricks come to mind here, one is to warm ( warm
> not over hear) the alumanam plate,
A good tip in general, but not in this particular case. The bearing is
held into the aluminum endbell by a snap ring, so heating the aluminum
plate will not allow you to remove it while leaving the bearing on the
shaft. The snap ring is on the inside of the endbell and cannot be
reached until the endbell and bearing are removed (together) from the
armature shaft.
> for getting the bearing off the shaft , you can
> carfully cut it with a 4 and 1/2 cutting wheel on you hand
> grinder, just cut a slot in the outter race and a little
> prying will let the inside of the bearing fall out, now
> you have the inner race on the shaft, do the same
> thing being carful not to grind into the motor shaft ,
Again, good tips in general, but not of help in this case since it is
not possible to remove the aluminum endbell while leaving the bearing on
the armature. If you did manage to get the snap ring free so that the
endbell could be pulled off, then the bearing could simply be removed
with a bearing puller; no need to cut things apart.
> > When I reassembled them, the
> > bearing did not seat on the shaft by itself. The shaft and
> > the bearing inner race were clean and smooth, no reason for
> > binding. I do not have a press, so I had to carefully tap
> > the inner race with a hammer and punch to get it to seat.
>
> heat again might have helped , but not to much, tapping the
> inner race is good,
I don't think you really want to be heating the new bearing, although
doing so could certainly allow it to be installed a bit easier.
Better to just use a deep socket or bit of pipe with a large enough ID
to fit over the motor shaft and small enough OD that it contacts only
the inner race and gently tap the bearing onto the shaft until it seats.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Which model?
On 6/20/05, Stu or Jan stu-at-aaronj.com |vehicle/1.0-Allow|
<...> wrote:
> Heat sinking a Curtis controller?
>
>
>
> Recommended by Curtis. Experiences of users?
>
>
>
> BoyntonStu
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Dave Cover [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Seems the temperature and speed ratings favor the less
> expensive shielded bearings. Any reason to go with the more
> expensive sealed bearing?
Well, the sealed bearing appears to be what ADC installs when they build
the motors, and typically if a manufacturer doesn't use a cheaper part
there is a good reason for it.
Looking at the SKF catalog, their stainless steel deep-groove ball
bearing W6207-2RS1 (sealed both sides) is rated for 6300RPM, a good
match for the ADC 9". The W6207-2Z (shielded both sides) is rated to
9000RPM; nice, but unlikely to be seen in a stock 9". The bearing
itself (no seals or shields) is rated to over 11000RPM, so no worry
about catastrophic failure even if you do occasionally take your motor
into the 7000RPM+ region.
The biggest difference between shielded and sealed bearings seems to be
that while shields can keep the grease in, they don't keep moisture and
dirt out of the bearing. Seals do, and this is likely to be an
important distinction in an automotive application.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd vote for keeping the welding thread, virtually every EV has been
welded or needs welding.
A friend let me play a bit with his Lincoln 175 TIG welder. Yes, I
definitely need more practice, but I was happy to conclude "I can do
this." Here are some general newbie comments:
The arc was a little hard to start (friend said was much easier
if you cleaned the metal first!)
Once started the arc was amazingly stable. You could vary the
tip-to-work spacing from almost touching to about 4 mm and the arc
would keep going (the "arc cone" would grow with bigger spacing).
If you started to melt through you could just back off the pedal.
Even though I was getting good penetration on 1/4 inch steel it never
burned through.
It was slow going (although my inexperience contributed to this).
It was quiet and almost splatter free (my friend often wears no
glove on his torch hand, I wouldn't recommend that but shows it it
mustn't splatter much).
The Lincoln auto-darkening helmet worked so well I couldn't tell
it was working at first!
It was easy to see what you were doing.
I learned more in one hour of actually doing than in many hours
of reading.
My friend owns and uses gas, stick, MIG, and TIG welders. He said if
he had to have just one it would be TIG.
Caveats: I have done stick welding (tough to start the arc, tough to
see what you were doing) and brazing, but not done MIG or gas yet.
--- Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Chris, what I did before I purchased a TIG was to take some
> lessons from
> the local college. It will give you **great** appreciation for how
> good a
> welder can be, and for hands on experience. Maybe a patient guy at
> the place
> you work can stay late for a couple of hours and show you how it is
> done.
> It is great to get your hands dirty and see how hard it is (or easy
> if you
> have HF start).
>
> The first time I tried TIG, I used my MIG reversed as a power
> source. What
> a complete failure. The freekin thing was sticking all the time.
> So I
> completely gave up and just did MIG (aka metal "glue gun"). After
> a number
> of years of complaining "TIG is too hard", I asked a good friend
> (who just
> happened to be the welding director at the local college) for some
> lessons.
> In four hours he got me going, then sent me home to practise and
> practise.
> It was night and day difference, I was easily welding Steel, SS and
> Aluminum
> by the end of the session.
>
> I purchased the cheapest AC unit (Lincoln 185), but it still cost
> $2000 USD.
> However, like you know eBay and welding shops do get used units.
>
> Keep in mind, the torch is the cheap half of a TIG, the power unit
> is the
> expensive half. Both are required. DC for steel with HF start.
> AC HF for
> aluminum.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "jimevdl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: Another BC-20 Question
> Bill,
> I have a BC-20, but my pack is slightly lower, at 112V (14x8V). My line
voltage is about 120VAC as well.
>
> It takes almost 10 hours to charge my pack to 136VDC. The BC-20 can
indeed provide the voltage at end of charge to reach even my equalization
voltage (forget off-hand, 145ish), but it takes a long time to get there.
>
> While it's true that most of the time you have plenty of time to charge
overnight, I've learned that for convenience, I would prefer a bit less
charge time.
>
> The good news is that I can get most of my bulk charging done at
reasonable currents (above 12A). To get 'er full up though, it's painfully
slow. I'm sure the BC-20 can charge your pack as well, and you can always
add the xfmr later, if the time is not what you can live with.
>
> I'm planning to get the transformer one of these days, as I am looking to
upgrade to slightly higher voltage, and I want to get it capable before K&W
goes the way of DCP, and they are no longer available. Another option is
one that comes in a green box. I'm having charger-envy of my friends who can
charge from 220 in 3 hours.
>
> One other comment while we're talking BC-20's: I melted my AC plug this
weekend. The BC's can deliver better than 20A, but unless you have a 20A
plug on the end, be sure to keep the current a bit lower.
>
> Best regards, Jim
>
Charger envy....that's a good one!
You know I can fix that discrepency for you????
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How will you use the sprocket? There are taperlocks for ever size of shaft.
A local bearing house should carry everything you can imagine. Lawrence
Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 10:24 AM
Subject: Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
I am looking for the machine specifications (internal) for a taper lock
two piece type hub adapter. My transmission system will be unique and I am
going to have to get the hub machined locally to get the price within
reason and to avoid shipping my transaxle across country.
If anyone can provide me with the measurements or drawings (or a link to)
for the hub using a ADC 9" type motor, I would greatly appreciate it! I
don't want to risk some other system that could potentially fail. I have
heard the "horror" stories of failures from setscrews, etc.
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would stay in touch with Dennis Berube if you are looking for this type
(pulsed mig, pulsed tig) machine. He has good deals on quality reconditioned
welding equipment all the time. As specialized as this unit is he might not
have a unit in stock but if its out there he will probably run across one
sooner or later.
David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Welding
comments inserted
I have noticed that most all TIG welders also
advertise that they are
stick welders too...
Does this work both ways??
yes. stick and tig are constant current processes
where mig is constant voltage. You should be able to
do either with a CC power source.
Can I buy a good TIG torch , and connect it to an AC
arc welder, and
have it work?
That is how I learned years ago. It is not as easy as
having a "gas pedal" like on a real tig machine, so it
will take some getting used to. the other difference
is that newer machines have square wave output, some
with an asymetrical waveform. With these setups you
end up with more of your heat in the metal and less at
the torch.
Here is my thoughts. I mostly want to weld steel,
and aluminum. I
would like to have a TIG welder, but the ones that
are AC/DC are way
out of my price range!!!
I thought about getting the one at harbor freight
for about $200, but
no AC. I am told that you can tig aluminum with DC,
using helium as a
shielding gas, but it isn't pretty?? Do any of you
have experience
there??
let's say downright ugly. I have done thin only in an
emergency situation and would not trust the results. I
have welded with a simple stick machine with a tig
torch on steel and bronze and the results are great. I
would not suggest doing it for aluminum. If you want
to weld aluminum at the very least save up for the
ac/dc machine. aluminum welds with a simple sine wave
ac machine can be very pretty but they do leave a
large heat affected area. If you are doing something
that does not require a lot of inherent strength it
will be fine. If you think you are going to build a
stuctural aluminum frame pay some one else to do it or
save up for the right machine. I have an aluminum
frame that I'm building for the next project and I
will only use pulsed mig or pulsed tig. they put a
minimal amount of heat into the weld and are really
strong. But, we are talking about a 7000 dollar
machine.
Anyway,,,what I was thinking is buying a TIG Kit,
such as the one
here. http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p002770.htm
And then connecting it to any arc welder.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Chris Seeley
Gadget
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are you using the original flywheel?
If so, you need a hub that will "look" like the end of the original engine
crankshaft, so it will interface properly with the original flywheel. You
may not be able to find a drawing for that particular hub, unless someone
else has converted the same car ( and has a drawing available).
A good place to start teh hub design is to select ( and buy) a taper -lock
bushing. I am using ( and am happy with) a type QD bushing. This is a
family of bushings that are made by several different manufacturers, See
this spec sheet:
http://www.rylesprocket.com/Catalog/webcat/QD_Bush/qd.htm
I used the SH size, and you must also specify 1 1/8 inch bore. You can find
this at any bearing shop.
As to the hub itself, it must mate with the bushing on the back side, and
mate with the flywheel on the front side.
Also, make sure that relationship between the flywheel-mounting surface of
your hub, and your adapter plate is the same as the relationship between the
flywheel-mounting surface of the original crankshaft and the
transmission-mating surface of the engine block.
It is probably best to decide first what your adapter plate thickness will
be ( and the thickness of an additional adapter ring, if needed) first.
Then, you can determine the correct length for the hub.
Phil
I am looking for the machine specifications (internal) for a taper lock
two piece type hub adapter. My transmission system will be unique and I
am going to have to get the hub machined locally to get the price within
reason and to avoid shipping my transaxle across country.
If anyone can provide me with the measurements or drawings (or a link to)
for the hub using a ADC 9" type motor, I would greatly appreciate it! I
don't want to risk some other system that could potentially fail. I have
heard the "horror" stories of failures from setscrews, etc.
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
could you describe your battery pack cell connection please ?
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lightning Ryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: cheap NIMH AA's
> Probably not, how do I know? I've tried...
>
> I built 4 blocks of 11 cells in series for ~12v and ~2Ah each.
> Two blocks in series for 22 cells and ~24v, these in parallel
> with another set for 4Ah total capacity, but I need 50Amps
> for accelleration and these things just sag too much to dish
> out the 10C+ levels of current. As I recall they had a tough
> time keeping up at 1C or 2C, so 10C was out of the question.
> They could just barely provide crusing current of about 12Amps
> or 3C and then there's the charging issues with parallel NiMH
> strings, each string needs to be charged independently, ouch.
>
> Contrast this with the Prismatic Li-ion pack of 96 1Ah cells.
> 12 in parallel (no issues there) for ~12Ah (~10Ah delivered).
> They do 4C or about 48Amps, just enough for accelleration.
> Because of their higher voltage it only takes 8 cells to reach
> ~24v (more like 30v), as opposed to 22 series Ni cells, or 12
> series PbA cells. I've got a few hunderead miles on my Li pack
> and it's running great, even use it as a portable ~12v battery
> for charging my cell and testing my Sevcon/E-Tek setup at ~24v.
>
> L8r
> Ryan
>
> ps. If you can't tell I'm not much of a NiMH fan.
>
> Carl Clifford wrote:
> > Could you string/parallel together enough of these to make a scooter?
> > They're durned cheap.
> >
> >
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001FZCQQ/ref%3Dnosim/bensbargaicenter/103-7496192-8191039
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A high-powered electric motorcycle expected to go into production:
http://www.realtechnews.com/posts/1458
Gizmag article:
http://www.gizmag.com/go/4105/
The manufacturer's site:
http://www.robrady.com/
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
Back in the Mesozoic (when desktop computers were still called "IBM"
PC's--man, am I getting old), I used to program in assembler. I've got a PC
sitting around now that I'd like to use in DOS mode and write some assembler
on for my EV. Anybody know where I go to get a version of MASM these days
that doesn't require Windows? It seems like the one from Microsoft's site
runs only under Windows.
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
You could always run Linux and use 'gas' (GNU Assembler).
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul Wujek wrote:
Bill Dennis wrote:
Back in the Mesozoic (when desktop computers were still called "IBM"
PC's--man, am I getting old), I used to program in assembler. I've
got a PC
sitting around now that I'd like to use in DOS mode and write some
assembler
on for my EV. Anybody know where I go to get a version of MASM these
days
that doesn't require Windows? It seems like the one from Microsoft's
site
runs only under Windows.
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
You could always run Linux and use 'gas' (GNU Assembler).
Actually you could also try the FLAT Assembler in MS-DOS:
http://flatassembler.net/
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
--- End Message ---
