EV Digest 4532
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: hybrid battery question
by "Jake Oshins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: hybrid battery question
by "Will" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Large Sealed Batteries
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) FS: 9 Evercel M100s, plus spare cells
by Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: hybrid battery question
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: A timer on PFC chargers
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: sepex motor controller
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: FS: 9 Evercel M100s, plus spare cells-info links
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: A timer on PFC chargers
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Vacuum tubes for motor control?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: A timer on PFC chargers
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Electric Vehicle Help (odometer reading)
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Toyota agrees to stop crushing RAV4 EVs !!!
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: CalCars Teach Lead ( Mixed Mode or EV-Assist range )
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Tires for Chinesy Scooter folks
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Electric Vehicle Help (odometer reading)
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Motor cooling
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: A timer on PFC chargers
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) OT - question for Gadget RE: hybrid battery question
by James Sullivan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Tires for Chinesy Scooter folks
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: A timer on PFC chargers
by "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Tires for Chinesy Scooter folks
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Motor cooling
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Albright/Curtis SW200A - 16 144v use?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Albright/Curtis SW200A - 16 144v use?
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: CUSHMAN Truck
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) We have ignition!...Silver Bullet Flies Again
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Batteries
by "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Electric scooter question
by Jon Glauser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: hybrid battery question
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Albright/Curtis SW200A - 16 144v use?
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Battery de-sulfation
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
33) Zap again
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
34) Re: Electric scooter question
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
35) Resistance Insight Pack?
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
36) Re: Electric scooter question
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Honda gave me a 7 year warantee on my battery pack for my Civic Hybrid.
With that, I don't really care how long they actually last.
- Jake
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 2:50 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: hybrid battery question
Greetings,
One of my co-workers just told me she is looking at hybrids but heard
that the very expensive battery must be replaced every year and this
does not appeal to her. I have not been paying close attention to all
the hybrid messages but am quite sure this is not correct. What is the
expected longevity for the hybrid batteries? We are in Las Vegas where
the heat may impact them.
I am considering an Insight myself, not extremely seriously yet, but my
EVs are all so old that things other than the electrical systems are
breaking. Are there ANY disadvantages to the Insight, other than its
using gasoline?
Thanks,
Gail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
First off, the hybrid battery doesn't need to be replaced every year, or
even every few years. The 2004 Toyota Prius that I bought a year and a half
ago came with an 8-year warranty on the battery, motor/generators &
controller. If Toyota is willing to offer such a warranty, then you can be
pretty sure that the battery is designed to last at least that long (and
probably 50% longer, because their financial gurus would insist on a margin
of safety). They say the battery ought to last the life of the vehicle.
But if I still have mine after 8 years and the battery dies, then that will
be a good time to buy a big lithium ion pack and make it a "pluggable"
hybrid.
The Prius is a great car, with no real compromises: It has plenty of power
and acceleration, it's quiet and comfortable, it's a head-turner, it has
plenty of cargo space in the hatchback, and it wasn't that much more
expensive than other, non-hybrid mid-sized cars.
The Honda Insight looks like a pretty amazing car, too, with by far the best
fuel economy of all the hybrids. The only bad thing I heard about it was
from the Car Talk guys who took it for a test drive and said that its
lightweight aluminum construction made it a little noisy (not enough
sound-dampening) and more susceptible to gusts of wind than most small cars.
That wouldn't really bother me, though; I grew up in noisy old cars with
funky handling, and I'm sure the Insight is a far sight better than those.
-- Will Bain
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 3:50 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: hybrid battery question
Greetings,
One of my co-workers just told me she is looking at hybrids but heard that
the very expensive battery must be replaced every year and this does not
appeal to her. I have not been paying close attention to all the hybrid
messages but am quite sure this is not correct. What is the expected
longevity for the hybrid batteries? We are in Las Vegas where the heat
may impact them.
I am considering an Insight myself, not extremely seriously yet, but my
EVs are all so old that things other than the electrical systems are
breaking. Are there ANY disadvantages to the Insight, other than its
using gasoline?
Thanks,
Gail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does there exist a Group 31 Sealed Lead Acid battery which is the equal of
Exides or Optimas. I have seen some Trojans. Is there a Hawker that doesn't
cost an arm and a leg? Looking for around 60 pounds. Optimas(60 pound
group 31) don't seem to be a good option. What's left?
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have 9 Evercel M100s which I was going to install into my car, but have
not, and probably would not in the near future. I also have 5 spare cells
in the event you develop a bad cell. I'd like to get $1800 for the lot,
but I am willing to entertain offers. The only catch is if you want it
shipped I'm going to have to solicit ideas from the list for shipping
them.
Also, I have 10 Rudman MK2b regulators which if the buyer wishes to pick
them up, I will part with for $42.50 each. These are new, fully assembled
and never installed.
If you have questions, please let me know
Derrick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a Ford Escape hybrid. It has an eight year-
100,000 mile warranty an all the parts that are
uniquely hybrid. That would include the battery. my
milage is averaging about 28.5 mpg, but in trafic or
off road I 'm getting 35.5! I love this car. I have
the four wheel drive model.
Gadget
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> One of my co-workers just told me she is looking at
> hybrids but heard that
> the very expensive battery must be replaced every
> year and this does not
> appeal to her. I have not been paying close
> attention to all the hybrid
> messages but am quite sure this is not correct.
> What is the expected
> longevity for the hybrid batteries? We are in Las
> Vegas where the heat
> may impact them.
>
> I am considering an Insight myself, not extremely
> seriously yet, but my
> EVs are all so old that things other than the
> electrical systems are
> breaking. Are there ANY disadvantages to the
> Insight, other than its
> using gasoline?
>
> Thanks,
> Gail
>
>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nope 15 minutes for mabe twice a year.
Got it solved already Victor.
Us lead acid AGM guys also don't waste 3 amps for a hour, more like .5 to
1.5 amps, this just helps the equalization efforts that most of us need more
of already.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: A timer on PFC chargers
> I understand that. How many times you can run 2-3 amps for 2-3
> hours periods without any harm (not to mention wasted energy?
>
> Isn't it better to *guarantee* (with such a simple and cheap means
> as a mechanical timer) that it will never happen?
>
> Victor
>
> David wrote:
> > I flip my pfc-20 power switch off and on quite often after a full
charge..
> > The blue timer led begins flashing almost instantly and the charger
drops
> > the
> > current to 4 amps or less and later backs it on down to 2-3 amps just as
it
> > does
> > at the end of the normal finishing time.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 3:58 PM
> > Subject: A timer on PFC chargers
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok Thanks Lee for explaining my questions so well.
I have some other ideas I would like to post...
Could I replace the fets and capacitors with higher voltage components,
I know this could be expensive.
This would take care of the high amps section of the controller but this
leaves out the brain of the controller.
What if I separate the power supply for the control section from the
high voltage section, their are two circuit boards in this controller,
and construct a dc-dc convertor to run the control board at its 48volt
rating. This way only the gates and a common negatitive would be
connected together.
Comments are appreciated.
Thanks
Mike G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A fellow EV'r in the NE Ohio area bought some Evercell
80Ahr batteries (M80's or MB80's?).
Anyhow, he was wanting charging profiles and I told
him
I didn't have a clue (actually didn't want to become
involved with his experiment). I pointed him to
Rich's sight www.manzanitomicro.com which has several
discharge and capacity tests in Excel format. I know
Jon Sheer worked with the M100's I think in his Honda
and was wondering who has more detailed info on
charge/discharge, series string, temp compensation
etc.
data on the internet.
Any links would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rod
--- Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have 9 Evercel M100s which I was going to install
> into my car, but have
> not, and probably would not in the near future. I
> also have 5 spare cells
> in the event you develop a bad cell. I'd like to get
> $1800 for the lot,
> but I am willing to entertain offers. The only catch
> is if you want it
> shipped I'm going to have to solicit ideas from the
> list for shipping
> them.
>
> Also, I have 10 Rudman MK2b regulators which if the
> buyer wishes to pick
> them up, I will part with for $42.50 each. These are
> new, fully assembled
> and never installed.
>
> If you have questions, please let me know
>
> Derrick
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't see the issue.
If the battery is charged... what's another 15 min of float???
This is the majority of my clients reaction... So what? Why do we care?
How do the Brusas weather this problem???
Bet they just latch off..... and terminate the charge cycle.... abit early.
This is a greater hazzard two most of us than the possible over charge
issue.
So... keep in mind What works best for the most
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: A timer on PFC chargers
> Rich Rudman wrote:
> >
> > Now doing more than 3 hour charges... you have to get tricky or ....add
a
> > external timer.... Or ask me to dial the clock rate down, so you .5 to 8
> > hours of timer.
> >
> > Rich Rudman
> > Manzanita Micro
>
> IT's not about max possible time Rich. It's about the fact that
> the cahrger's timer resets *every time* external power is lost
> for whatever reason, but mechanical timer doesn't.
>
> It is not too uncommon to have power glitches on stormy days 2-3
> times (I've seen 3-10 sec outages).
>
> Yes, the chances are small. But the timers are also cheap and small
> unlike battery packs...
>
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Of course the light and heat could be used instead of lost?
So we make an EV that works best in cold weather at night. plasma arc
headlights anyone?
We need to get one of these for the front of gone postal instead of that
wimpy tesla ball ;-)
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/electricstuff/mercarc.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
I don't see the issue.
If the battery is charged... what's another 15 min of float???
For lead - perhaps nothing.
This is the majority of my clients reaction... So what? Why do we care?
I have no problem with that; if one client had issue with
NiCd and the way timer works, but majority don't care,
then there is nothing to worry about.
How do the Brusas weather this problem???
BRUSAs have Ah counter and non-volativle memory backed up
by aux battery, so if the mains fail, the timer knows
the time and Ah counter won't let you overcharge even
if you unplug-replug.
But, as you say, majority don't care, and I'm not going
to compare BRUSA to PFC; we know advantages and disadvantages
of both. BRUSAs are not for majority, so they can afford
to pay attention to little details for just about any case
and any customer requirement, not just for majority. But PFC's
objective was different; let's leave it at that.
Bet they just latch off..... and terminate the charge cycle.... abit early.
With no mains input of course nothing can get going.
My question was how the hardware resumes, but you
rather answer whether customers care.
That's fine with me, I don't use either PFC charger or lead battery.
This is a greater hazzard two most of us than the possible over charge
issue.
So... keep in mind What works best for the most
I don't care about business part, I was curious about
engineering issue whether you see it as a problem or not.
Don't be defensive Rich, no one attacks you!
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: A timer on PFC chargers
Rich Rudman wrote:
Now doing more than 3 hour charges... you have to get tricky or ....add
a
external timer.... Or ask me to dial the clock rate down, so you .5 to 8
hours of timer.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
IT's not about max possible time Rich. It's about the fact that
the cahrger's timer resets *every time* external power is lost
for whatever reason, but mechanical timer doesn't.
It is not too uncommon to have power glitches on stormy days 2-3
times (I've seen 3-10 sec outages).
Yes, the chances are small. But the timers are also cheap and small
unlike battery packs...
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Neon John wrote:
> I suggest not falsifying the odo reading. Thanks to the antics of
> people in my town here(Two "60 minutes visits", federal investigation,
> dozens sent off to Club Fed in Atlanta, etc), odo
> tampering/rollback/falsifying is now a federal felony.
How about in the case of replacing the factory speedometer with a new
aftermarket one? What to do about the new one reading 0 and the old
one was ~54333?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's curious that I happened to purchase a new Prius Package#1
the same day they agreed to sell the RAV4's, must be a sign...
Anyway, here's my post about the new car I made while on vacation.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/honda-hybrid/message/18308
Since then I've visited Ron Gremban to take a look at his
Prius+ ( Extra Battery and External Charging ) Modifications!
I believe he's running with 10 miles of PbA range currently.
The EnergyCS/EDrive systems SOC trickery is pretty neet stuff.
Anyway, I've installed the "EV-Button" which gives me more
control of the EV-Only mode in the Prius and seems to about
double the electric power level, I believe to about 25kW.
I think I can do about 3 miles with a Full battery, though
6/8th full is the normal target SOC so it's normally less.
Still workin on the Insight project, so I probably won't be
doing much in the way of modifications to the Prius, yet...
L8r
Ryan
ps. Humm, only 765 more messages to catch up on ! <G>rin
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> From: RemyC <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Toyota agrees to stop crushing RAV4 EVs !!!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> One Question about that Priusplus group post: it keeps mentioning "a 5.3 kWh
> PRIUS+ battery pack capable of a 40 mile EV-assist range" - so, is the
> 7.7mi/kWh range calculated at 45mph (pure EV top speed)?
I haven't got through all the posts, so perhaps this has been answered.
I believe that they are talking about Mixed Mode range. That is to say
that the with a larger than stock pack which starts out charged the
vehicle will act as if it's pack is full, and so it will use more EV
power than it otherwise would. So for 40 miles it's going to get far
better "Gas Mileage" as it's also using up the 5.3kWh in the battery.
I've been hearing that the Prius's EV-only mode achieves 3miles/kWh.
Seems right as I went about 3 miles on a full charge of about 1kWh.
L8r
Ryan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lock Hughes wrote:
> My 12" tires always suck. Fine for kids on their trikes I suppose.
> I'm still looking for quality rubber to squeeze on to... 12 1/2"?
Have you tried both the Kenda and Ken Shin brands?
http://www.sdscooters.com/Gas-Scooter-Tires-Tubes.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 21:00:20 -0500, Ryan Stotts
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Neon John wrote:
>
>> I suggest not falsifying the odo reading. Thanks to the antics of
>> people in my town here(Two "60 minutes visits", federal investigation,
>> dozens sent off to Club Fed in Atlanta, etc), odo
>> tampering/rollback/falsifying is now a federal felony.
>
>How about in the case of replacing the factory speedometer with a new
>aftermarket one? What to do about the new one reading 0 and the old
>one was ~54333?
>
If it's an electronic odo, you have it programmed to the mileage on
the bad one. If it's a mechanical odo or a non-programmable
electronic, you sign a form showing the old mileage and the new
mileage (for when the speedo comes out of a junk yard with miles
already on it) and send it to the state. I believe it becomes part of
the car's title. I'm a bit vague on this, as I'm only done one and it
was years ago.
In TN (maybe federal for all states?) one can certify the odo as being
inoperable, in which case the car is assumed to have >100k miles. Not
sure if this applies to fairly new cars, as I've not owned anything
newer than about 7 years old in decades.
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roland wrote:
>Used a Dayton 6 inch 12 VDC @ 4 amp blower fan that is design for
motor >cooling. It has a curved outlet that mounts directly to the
brush cover. The inlet >has a mount for a standard 6 inch carburetor
filter or install a mounting bar >across the inlet for the threaded
bolt for the chrome filter cover.
Does it look like this?
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2185/d61b7ko.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2528/271b2oy.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8739/111b0zj.jpg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 03:13 PM 7/27/2005, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Yes, the chances are small. But the timers are also cheap and small
unlike battery packs...
Last time I checked, reliable timers that could handle a 20A (or 50A)
load were neither cheap nor small.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Gadget so how is the Escape off road, the rear approach angle looks pretty good
but how is the articulation. Did you put on larger tires any modification to
avoid tire rub? I'm still hoping Chrysler with smarten up and put out a hybrid
Jeep.
-----Original Message-----
From: Reverend Gadget [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 7:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: hybrid battery question
I have a Ford Escape hybrid. It has an eight year-
100,000 mile warranty an all the parts that are
uniquely hybrid. That would include the battery. my
milage is averaging about 28.5 mpg, but in trafic or
off road I 'm getting 35.5! I love this car. I have
the four wheel drive model.
Gadget
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don't the Tango and Festiva use 12 inch tyres?
With enough patience,
you can milk a porcupine
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: Tires for Chinesy Scooter folks
Lock Hughes wrote:
My 12" tires always suck. Fine for kids on their trikes I suppose.
I'm still looking for quality rubber to squeeze on to... 12 1/2"?
Have you tried both the Kenda and Ken Shin brands?
http://www.sdscooters.com/Gas-Scooter-Tires-Tubes.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, on an agm pack , this *might* be bad, but on a flooded
pack,like mine, it's supposed to be neccessary every now and then.
144*2.2*2=663 watt hours across the whole pack, not too bad.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: A timer on PFC chargers
> I understand that. How many times you can run 2-3 amps for 2-3
> hours periods without any harm (not to mention wasted energy?
>
> Isn't it better to *guarantee* (with such a simple and cheap means
> as a mechanical timer) that it will never happen?
>
> Victor
>
> David wrote:
> > I flip my pfc-20 power switch off and on quite often after a full
charge..
> > The blue timer led begins flashing almost instantly and the charger
drops
> > the
> > current to 4 amps or less and later backs it on down to 2-3 amps just as
it
> > does
> > at the end of the normal finishing time.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 3:58 PM
> > Subject: A timer on PFC chargers
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave wrote:
> Don't the Tango and Festiva use 12 inch tyres?
The Tango has 13's:
http://www.commutercars.com/specifications.html
The Festiva does appear to have 12" wheels..
http://www.carsdirect.com/research/ford/festiva/1993/l/features
The old Mini Cooper had 10" wheels...
http://www.supercars.net/cars/2047.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No, My fans bolt on the brush covers. My pilot shaft on this motor drives a
accessory unit, so it is not mounted in front of the motor or the fan is driven
by the pilot shaft.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Stotts<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: Motor cooling
Roland wrote:
>Used a Dayton 6 inch 12 VDC @ 4 amp blower fan that is design for
motor >cooling. It has a curved outlet that mounts directly to the
brush cover. The inlet >has a mount for a standard 6 inch carburetor
filter or install a mounting bar >across the inlet for the threaded
bolt for the chrome filter cover.
Does it look like this?
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2185/d61b7ko.jpg<http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2185/d61b7ko.jpg>
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2528/271b2oy.jpg<http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2528/271b2oy.jpg>
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8739/111b0zj.jpg<http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8739/111b0zj.jpg>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can't seem to find exact specifications for this contactor. I think it has
a 120v max rating. Can this contactor function at 144v? If not what would
I need for a 144v system with a 400 to 500amp max rating. The Kilovac
series look good.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Can't seem to find exact specifications for this contactor. I think it has
a 120v max rating. Can this contactor function at 144v? If not what would
I need for a 144v system with a 400 to 500amp max rating. The Kilovac
series look good.
If I rememeber correctly, Lee mentioned using contactors in series to increase
their voltage rating. Is there a general rule for calculating what two or more
contactors in series will handle? I have two Albright contactors, but I need to
switch over 300 volts.
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Howdy Folk's
>
> I was curious if anyone has converted a Cushman truck and was able to get
> 45mph with good handling and brakes. Looking at some photos of one on
> http://www.laidbackracing.com/files/try.jpg it looks awfully like a
> Citi-Car which had terrible handling from a golf cart. Are there
> aftermarket modifications that can be done to widen the wheel base?
Bigger
> wheels? Better brakes? Front end stability?
>
> How are the brakes, are they 4-wheel drum or just a tranny pincher?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 9:18 AM
> Subject: CUSHMAN tags
>
>
> > I think they might make an ideal EV if I could get it street legal.
> Thanks, Mark
> >
>
> >
>
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Hello to All,
Last night was our third in a row working on the Silver Bullet. It's been
pretty hot and muggy around here with temps in the mid 90s, so after long
days wrenching on forklifts in the sun then going from that right into
Jeffrey's garage until 11 or at night makes for a long day! It's been worth
the effort, however, as last night after we checked everything out, it
powered up on the first try with that familiar whine from the super charger
belt that connects the three motors together. Using my PFC30, we topped off
the pack at a conservative 202V then took it off charge and let it settle
down to about 180V or so. Jeffrey and Tim took it out for about a 1 mile
battery break-in run and returned, with Tim saying, "Man, that's the loudest
EV I've ever heard!" Indeed, I could hear that belt whining all through the
neighborhood. Unlike the Curtis controller whine I whine about all the time
with it's non-varying 1.5 kz square wave noise, at least the belt whine is
mechanical and entertaining as it rises and falls with motor rpm. At the
track, it draws in the gasser dudes and they all want to take a look under
the hood, but as a street EV, the sound is way too loud.
Tonight, the guys are going to get familiar with the charging routine and
will be doing a few more runs to exercise the batteries. Friday, the Madman
is in town bringing with him the fat and sticky BF Goodrich drag radials for
the Z's back end, then it's time to put the electric 280ZX on the trailer.
With PIR closed to drag racing this weekend, but with perfect EV drag racing
weather at hand in the mid 80s to keep the batteries heated up, we're off to
Woodburn on Friday for the Friday Night Street legal Drags!
See Ya.......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
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First I would like to thank everyone for all the great responses I got on my
1965 Datsun Truck posting.
I will spend some time sorting through all the information.
Have a question on Optima Batteries.
If I decide to go with these, is there any reason(s) not to go with the
larger Optima D31 versus D34 batteries as long as space and weight aren't a
problem?
The extra lead should give me a little more range.
Thanks;
Dennis
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Hello everyone, I have a few questions about a conversion I want to do.
I got a Honda Elite 50 scooter with a bad engine. I thought it might be
a good conversion. I only want about 10 miles range out of it at 35-40
mph with average acceleration (enough to not be embarrased at stop lights).
I was thinking that with its CVT ranging from 40:1 to about 1:1 (my
best guess here, based on some measurements) and a GVWR of 315lbs (115
front, 200 rear), I could get 48V easy.. probably room for a little
more. But what size motor would I need? about 5hp is my guess. Any other
ideas for me to mull over?
-Jon
----
"You may delay, but time will not." - Ben Franklin
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The batteries, motor, generator, controller, etc. are all considered part
of a hybrid's emission control system. As such they fall under federal
regulation requiring a minimum warranty. I believe it's 7 years.
I suspect that we are going to be seeing more and more hybrids in the
future and that will drive down the price of replacement parts....6 or 7
years from now.
FWIW, I don't know about in the states, but I'm seeing some interesting
commercials on satellite TV over here that indicate that the future for
Petroleum might not be all that sunny and bright.
One claims that, "In the world wide search for oil, just over two barrels
are expended for every barrel found."
This commercial brought to you by....Cheveron
>
> Greetings,
>
> One of my co-workers just told me she is looking at hybrids but heard that
> the very expensive battery must be replaced every year and this does not
> appeal to her. I have not been paying close attention to all the hybrid
> messages but am quite sure this is not correct. What is the expected
> longevity for the hybrid batteries? We are in Las Vegas where the heat
> may impact them.
>
> I am considering an Insight myself, not extremely seriously yet, but my
> EVs are all so old that things other than the electrical systems are
> breaking. Are there ANY disadvantages to the Insight, other than its
> using gasoline?
>
> Thanks,
> Gail
>
>
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On 7/28/05, Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Can't seem to find exact specifications for this contactor. I think it has
> a 120v max rating. Can this contactor function at 144v?
Yes, and higher.. but..
> If not what would
> I need for a 144v system with a 400 to 500amp max rating. The Kilovac
> series look good.
It's rated to 400A continuous, so should be OK in this respect too.
The problem is when you try to open that sort of current (or higher,
in the event of a fault) at 144V, it probably won't do it very often,
or perhaps at all. I don't have the spec either unfortunately, and
I'd be interested to hear what other people have gotten away with in
terms of breaking fault currents with the SW200.
I doubt their application engineers would approve it for this
application, but you could always ask :)
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
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Hi all,
On another list, AWEA, people have been talking about desulfating lead acid
batteries. The thread seems to be gathering momentum and I'd like to have some
feed back from this group if anybody has some real evidence either that it
works or that it doesn't. By works I mean that the cost of man hours, of
supplies and of kwhs spent is equal to the return.
There are 2 main methods mentioned -
- EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid, or Tetra Sodium Salt). I understand
that it is a chelating agent, and is be used in Medicine, when metal poisoning
is suspected, It chemically attaches itself to the metal molecules, and they
are passed from the body harmlessly. Other Medical uses are for Heart problems.
Its even used in cosmetics and food industry. It can be found here
http://www.webspawner.com/users/edta/.
- Pulsing. Here is a good jumping off point for Pulse Generators
http://www.shaka.com/~kalepa/desulf.htm
I personally am very skeptical of these methods of desulfating batteries or
even of the concept at all. To begin with they only work on flooded lead acid
batteries. I don't think that anybody claims that it works on gel type lead
acid batteries. Also they don't really desulfate the batteries, they only make
the sulfate flake off the plates and it falls to the bottom where it gathers
and can short out a cell.
Nobody really addresses the issue of detecting shorted out cells before
starting the desulfating.
Somebody even suggests giving the battery aspirin.
In short does anybody have any empirical evidence that it either works or
doesn't work? I'm not looking or anecdotal stuff. I'd like some data about
studies etc.
I would also think that since EV'ers spend upwards of $2000 for a set of
flooded lead acids, and we are such 'spend thrifts' that we would have explored
this way of 'rejuvenating' batteries if it was viable.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
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--- Begin Message ---
ZAP TRIO Electric Vehicle
The fun, compact and affordable electric vehicle.
Approximate MSRP $8,995. Estimated availability October, 2005.
http://www.zapworld.com/cars/trio.asp
How cute! And a good price. Anyone got any more info, like *if it'll
ever see the light of day* ? :)
--
EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2
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Buy an Etek motor, more than enough power, fairly cheap, reasonably
efficient, and lightweight too. And it's designed for 48V.
Get rid of the CVT, just wasting energy, space, and weight, and for your
weight/speed requirement it's not needed. Just use a single speed chain
drive.
> Hello everyone, I have a few questions about a conversion I want to do.
> I got a Honda Elite 50 scooter with a bad engine. I thought it might be
> a good conversion. I only want about 10 miles range out of it at 35-40
> mph with average acceleration (enough to not be embarrased at stop
> lights).
> I was thinking that with its CVT ranging from 40:1 to about 1:1 (my
> best guess here, based on some measurements) and a GVWR of 315lbs (115
> front, 200 rear), I could get 48V easy.. probably room for a little
> more. But what size motor would I need? about 5hp is my guess. Any other
> ideas for me to mull over?
>
> -Jon
> ----
> "You may delay, but time will not." - Ben Franklin
>
>
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I'm intrigued by the thought of using batteries from wrecked hybrids
(google on "Electric7" and look at the cached page,
http://www.electric7.com seems to be down).
I saw a couple of web pages that say the Insight battery pack has
these specs:
120 D cell Nimh
6.5 Ahr
70 Amps
10 kW
144 V
So if I do the simple math, 144 V * 70 A = 10.08 kW
That would mean these batteries have almost no sag and almost zero
internal resistance! So apparently 10 kW is a nominal number? Does
anyone have better numbers? So what is the internal resistance for
these? Thanks for any info!
Sign me "Forever looking for the cheap miracle battery"
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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You might want to take a look at http://www.gobigscooters.com for some
ideas. I have one of the 400 amp versions. It has about the
performance envelope you're looking for. It would actually be better
one 48 volts but there isn't room for 4 batteries.
An ETEK motor would be excellent in this application. I changed out
the "400" amp curtis controller for a 400 amp Alltrax AXE controller
that actually DOES 400 amps (actually a little more). I wouldn't go
any lower on the amperage than that. I can just about keep up with
traffic accelerating away from a traffic light at 400 amps, and keep
up to about 35 mph. Then I run out of gearing. If the CVT on that
unit isn't too much of a power drain, you could greatly benefit from
it.
John
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 21:15:09 -0600, Jon Glauser
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Hello everyone, I have a few questions about a conversion I want to do.
>I got a Honda Elite 50 scooter with a bad engine. I thought it might be
>a good conversion. I only want about 10 miles range out of it at 35-40
>mph with average acceleration (enough to not be embarrased at stop lights).
>I was thinking that with its CVT ranging from 40:1 to about 1:1 (my
>best guess here, based on some measurements) and a GVWR of 315lbs (115
>front, 200 rear), I could get 48V easy.. probably room for a little
>more. But what size motor would I need? about 5hp is my guess. Any other
>ideas for me to mull over?
>
>-Jon
>----
>"You may delay, but time will not." - Ben Franklin
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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