EV Digest 4558
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Battery de-sulfation
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Bi-directional charging
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Drive thru car show, or "scolding at the DQ"
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Prius Conversion?
by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Hall-Effect tach sensor
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) charging fumes in garage
by Lance Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: No messages Again
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) test
by toltec <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Battery de-sulfation
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: No messages Again
by Don Buckshot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) If you want motorcycle range this is what you have to do.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: No messages Again
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Hybrid Pickup Continued
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Ping
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Ping
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: charging fumes in garage
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) test ignore
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Prius Conversion?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Woodburn Event
by "acid_lead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) test - no emails since Friday
by "EAA-contact" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Fwd: Correct AGM charging (was: A timer on PFC chargers)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) RE: Solectria S-10 conversion on ebay
by "Jeff Wilson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Conversions with MagnaCharge ports?
by "Jeff Wilson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) What to do with excess regen power
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: What to do with excess regen power
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: What to do with excess regen power
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Orbitals made in Spain?
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) List Down?
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Tailshaft use.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Charging in the heat
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Battery de-sulfation
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) soldering nicads?
by Duncan Orthner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
33) Re: Prius Conversion?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
34) Woodburn 2005 T-shirts
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
35) Electric Time Car Rentals
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
36) Emergency brake idea
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
37) Re: Battery de-sulfation
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
38) Re: Prius Conversion?
by Ben Apollonio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
39) Iota as DC/DC for 144v and higher.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
40) Super Capacitors and Li-Ion pack in parallel
by "Peter Perkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller wrote:
> This SLA hasn't been sitting really, it's just been through like
> 100 or more deep discharges and is more than 5 yrs old. Worn out.
Well, there are many ways a battery can "wear out". Before you start any
R&R proceedures, it would help to quantify exactly what is wrong with
it. Don't start treatment until you diagnose the disease. :-)
100 deep discharges on an automotive SLI battery is guaranteed worn out;
they are only good for a few dozen cycles. But 100 cycles on a golf cart
battery is just broken in; they are good for 700 or more cycles.
> So my plan here is:
> Note battery temp.
> Put it on my power supply until it floats to 14.8v and is down to
> a few mA of draw.
Unless it is low on water or suffering from excessive grid corrosion, it
will never get down to a few ma at 14.8v. A flooded battery in perfect
shape will "bottom out" around 1 amp per 100 amphours of rated capacity
at 14.8v and 72 deg.C. An AGM will be lower; it will "bottom out" at
around 250ma per 100 amphours of capacity. Both these currents rise as
the battery ages or gets hotter.
> Discharge it through maybe a 5 amp load until it gets down to 10.5v.
> That will probably need to be a headlight, which is sadly not a
> constant current device but should be a fair test as long as we
> always use it as the load. Note time.
Actually, it is a more constant load than a plain resistor. "Official"
tests are at constant current, but the variations you get with a
headlight or resistive load are not enough to matter.
> Recharge on power supply again.
Be sure you have a consistent proceedure for deciding when it is "full".
If you don't, variations in how "full" you got it will affect the
amphours you get on your discharge tests.
A good proceedure is "charge until the current stops falling". Second
best is "charge until the current falls under X amps (where you'll have
to decide what X is, and stick with it). Third best is "blindly charge
for X hours". This leads to variable amounts of overcharging, and so
variations on the subsequent discharge test.
> Put it on my pinging circuit for a day or two. Recharge on power
> supply. Repeat discharge test, same procedure.
> Recharge, come back in a couple of weeks (maybe put it back into
> service?). Put back on charger, repeat discharge test.
>
> Sound credible? Anything else you'd want to see?
No; that's the basics if all you have is one battery to test.
Be aware that until you debug your charge/discharge hardware, you'll see
variations in capacity on every charge cycle, even if you don't make any
deliberate changes. These variations can hide any potential benefits. So
it's important to do several charge/discharge cycles until you get
nearly the same results every time, and have an idea what "normal"
variations are.
--
*BE* the change that you wish to see in the world.
-- Mahatma Gandhi
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Noel P. Luneau wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> Does anyone know of a bi-directional charger (other than AC Propulsion)
> that one can use to supply power from your EV to the house in the event
> of a power outage? We also have Solar power to use in charging the EV.
>
> AC Propulsion's AC-150 Gen 2 is a little expensive for my budget.
High DC voltage inverters are not common, and the ones that do exist are
rather expensive. "Exeltech" is one brand I recall.
A motor-generator setup is an easy, low-tech, do-it-yourself method.
Your EV already has the motor; you just need to add an AC generator of
the desired capacity. A plain old AC induction motor can be used in a
pinch, with some capacitors across the AC line so it sees a capacitive
load.
--
*BE* the change that you wish to see in the world.
-- Mahatma Gandhi
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've been in Portland all week attending the Open Source Convention by
day, and providing computer tech support to John Wayland by night. The
dark ages have finally ended with John's slow dialup replaced with a
cable modem and wireless access.
Having exhausted support opportunities at his house we hopped in the
Meanie and took a short trip to help a coworker solve a software
installation issue. 7 miles, several industrial accident stories, and a
PFC enhanced charge later we pull out of the driveway. John stops at
the end of the block and digs thru his wallet looking for ice cream
money. 5 minutes later John's coworker is still standing in his driveway
watching us, doubtlessly wondering if John has finally broken the car.
"Should I punch it?" John asks.
"I wou.." is all I get out before John floors it.
John's cellphone rings, its his coworker laughing. "Ya know.. my
neighbor is a police sergent, and he's home right now.... But don't
worry, he'd never suspect that quiet little car. "
Next stop is the local Dairy Queen. Despite leaving the
neighborhood two miles behind the smell of burnt rubber is still
lingering. We order Blizzards at the speaker box. The line is crawling
ahead, and we are next in line for the window when a gentlemen steps out
of the store.
"Nice car," giving John a thumbs up.
"Its electric"
"Really..."
The Honda ahead is still at the window as John jumps out and opens
the hood. A small crowd gathers, asking about range, performance and
whether it still has a gas engine tucked away.
John leaves the hood propped open and runs around the back to
showoff the sliding battery tray. The Honda has now pulled away from
the drive thru window leaving a large empty space. John is still in
back chatting with the crowd enjoying his impromptu car show and I am
still trying not to act mortified.
A serious looking DQ manager opens the door: "Is there a problem here?"
"Ah no, just showing everyone my electric car" replies John.
"We need to get this line moving." she says before retreating back
inside.
After a pause John closes up the car and pulls up to the window.
Now most people having just held up a line of half a dozen cars, and
having been chewed out by the manager of a Dairy Queen might be
inclined to tone down their behavior...
"Its pretty quiet huh." (John tried this last night with cashier,
with little success)
She leans out the window: "I can't even hear it"
"Its electric..."
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello,
I have a 2001 Prius that has had a total engine failure at 80,000 Miles. The
body is in good shape. Seems like an ideal EV conversion candidate!
Has anybody ever converted a Prius?
So now I'm trying to decide if I should have it fixed, or convert it to a
complete EV. If I do convert it and use it as a replacement for
its original mission, I'll need at least 120 mile range and overnight recharge.
Is this doable? I would like to spend less then $15000 on the conversion if
possible.
Or I could forget my pipe dream, sell this guy and buy a $2K gas car. But that
would be such a bummer. :(
What should I do?!
Thanks!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All, I'm putting together a Tach sensor for my Zilla. I bought the
normal tach sensor that is used on ADC motors but I don't have the
proper clearances needed on my 11" Kostov. I need a suggestions for
what diodes that I need.
In the white paper for MLX90217 Hall-Effect Cam Sensor it says "In
severe cases it may be necessary to include a Zener diode to clamp
positive interference and Schottky diodes to clamp negative excursions."
It is shown on Page 5 - Severe Environment and Automotive Protection
Circuit.
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Melexis%20Web%20Data/MLX90217.pdf
John Grigg
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I have a typical American two story wood framed house built in 1988. The
interior walls are drywall (paper Gysum board). There is a gas fired water
heater, and gas fired furnace with air conditioning ductwork, gas fired clothes
dryer in the garage. There is an electric garage door opener at ceiling
height, many miscelaneous electric outlets, circuit breaker boxes, and small
appliances. There are two supply screened air vents at foundation level on the
outside wall.
There are two bedrooms above the garage. I can smell gas fumes from my old
60s-70s vintage cars in the upstairs bedrooms.
The charger is a simple consumer grade Exide model 10900 2/10/55 amp charger
starter. It is said to be "fully automatic maintenance and deep cycle". There
is a switch to select either maintenance free or deep cycle sealed/gel, and
another set of switches to select amp rate. It has a light that changes color
when the battery is charged.
When I charge the batteries on my old cars, I can sometimes smell distinct
battery charging fumes. Are these fumes from the normal charging process or is
this from a gassing process after the battery is charged?
Then, more importantly, since I am considering a lead acid electric car
conversion, will my ev batteries also smell like this when charging, and stink
up my house? Raise my wife's ire about our children's safety? Is this
charging process something that should be done only with the big garage door
open? with the car outside? in the rain? over night?
Lance Smith, Northern California, TR Spitfire project
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Since I sent a message to the list last friday I have not received one
message from the list.Whats going on? Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
test - ignore
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <>
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: Battery de-sulfation
Danny Miller wrote:
Put it on my pinging circuit for a day or two. Recharge on power
supply. Repeat discharge test, same procedure.
Recharge, come back in a couple of weeks (maybe put it back into
service?). Put back on charger, repeat discharge test.
Sound credible? Anything else you'd want to see?
What if you cut the batteries up and do your
testing with de sulfater on one 1/2 and regular charging on the other .
steve clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Same experience here
Don
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Since I sent a message to the list last friday I have not received one
message from the list.Whats going on? Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.futureenergies.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=212
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I got this one. The list has been quiet here too this weekend. Summer time
and everyones off EVing leaving us high and dry hehe. Just thought I'd let you
know peeps are recieving ya.
Cya
Jim
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Since I sent a message to the list last friday I have not received one
message from the list.Whats going on? Dennis Berube
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As many of you know, and many of you have given me good advice about it, I am
slowly converting my truck to homebrew hybrid. The first step of course is to
get the body as aerdynamic as possible and the engine as fuel efficient as
possible. It's like the way you get your household as electrically efficient as
possible before installing solar panels. Inspired by a guy named Phil Knox who
radically transformed the aerodynamics of his pickup,
http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=article&storyid=870, I've started a
Yahoo discussion group called maxmpg.org. There's only me and one other guy on
it right now but hopefully we'll soon be growing. I've also registered the URL
www.maxmpg.org and will post my changes and the resultant mpg improvement
numbers. Thanks guys and I hope you will visit. In particular, could someone
post how to accurately determine your frontal area? I recall it has something
to do with taking a picture of the front of your vehicle and then measuring it
som!
ehow. Could someone elaborate further? Does the angle of the windshield
matter? Thanks guys and I'm looking forward to hearing from you.
John David
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tap, tap, tap....is this thing on?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nope, sorry.
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: " Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 12:01 PM
Subject: Ping
Tap, tap, tap....is this thing on?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Commercially, there are hydrogen detectors and vent fans that are made
specifically for battery/UPS rooms.
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "submissions EV list" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 7:17 PM
Subject: charging fumes in garage
I have a typical American two story wood framed house built in 1988. The
interior walls are drywall (paper Gysum board). There is a gas fired water
heater, and gas fired furnace with air conditioning ductwork, gas fired
clothes dryer in the garage. There is an electric garage door opener at
ceiling height, many miscelaneous electric outlets, circuit breaker boxes,
and small appliances. There are two supply screened air vents at
foundation level on the outside wall.
There are two bedrooms above the garage. I can smell gas fumes from my
old 60s-70s vintage cars in the upstairs bedrooms.
The charger is a simple consumer grade Exide model 10900 2/10/55 amp
charger starter. It is said to be "fully automatic maintenance and deep
cycle". There is a switch to select either maintenance free or deep cycle
sealed/gel, and another set of switches to select amp rate. It has a
light that changes color when the battery is charged.
When I charge the batteries on my old cars, I can sometimes smell distinct
battery charging fumes. Are these fumes from the normal charging process
or is this from a gassing process after the battery is charged?
Then, more importantly, since I am considering a lead acid electric car
conversion, will my ev batteries also smell like this when charging, and
stink up my house? Raise my wife's ire about our children's safety? Is
this charging process something that should be done only with the big
garage door open? with the car outside? in the rain? over night?
Lance Smith, Northern California, TR Spitfire project
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
test
Philippe
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Like everything else, "it depends". If you're going
to replace the NiMH batts. with lead, then you've got
a heavy glider to do it with. The original Prius was
4300 lbs. I'll grant it will go down w/o ICE, and w/
the Nickel batts. removed, but still...
Do you want cargo space? The Ni are behind the
rear seat. So have you checked out the amount of
space for lead?
If you retain the Nickel MH, be aware that they are
a special NiMH designed for shall0w/cycle, not deep
cycle. Do you have access to a battery management
system that will keep them healthy?
It's of course very aerodynamic, but is your goal
range, or speed?
Are you going to retain the transmission? It's a CVT
with additional complexities because of an
interplanetary gearing or somesuch. How do you intend
to work around that issue?
These are just a few points to start with...
--- Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a 2001 Prius that has had a total engine
> failure at 80,000 Miles. The
> body is in good shape. Seems like an ideal EV
> conversion candidate!
>
> Has anybody ever converted a Prius?
>
> So now I'm trying to decide if I should have it
> fixed, or convert it to a
> complete EV. If I do convert it and use it as a
> replacement for
> its original mission, I'll need at least 120 mile
> range and overnight recharge.
>
> Is this doable? I would like to spend less then
> $15000 on the conversion if
> possible.
>
> Or I could forget my pipe dream, sell this guy and
> buy a $2K gas car. But that
> would be such a bummer. :(
>
> What should I do?!
>
> Thanks!
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'll be there for "a few hours" and can do some volunteer work during
part of that time.
Unfortunately it's also my wedding anniversary and also the day of the
swap meet of the All British Field Meet at PIR, one of the biggest
British car/truck/cycle events in the Northwest...
George Tylinski, Portland OR
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
...
> If anyone plans to come out whether they are racing or coming out to
> see the race please let the list know.
>
> T-shirts are being made again this year so reserve yours today.
>
> Roderick will be putting out more information as well about the race.
>
> See ya,
>
> Chip Gribben
> NEDRA Webmaster
> http://www.nedra.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just a test, since no emails received since Friday."Spare the air everyday,
drive electric."Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Don,
The weird thing on top of the battery box is the Magnacharger components.
They have a tremendous amount of wire to them. Mine were still the 3
strings of Hawkers and I am converting them to 2 strings of Dominators.
Mine came from Arizona Public Service in Phoenix.
Jeff Wilson
USA (Ret)
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Buckshot [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:15 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Solectria S-10 conversion on ebay
Interesting, these are _copies of my truck photos_ at www.buckshot.com/ev
The ebay truck has something weird on top of the under hood battery box,
and still has 3 strings of batteries. I thought all of the trucks were
converted to 2 strings by Solectria as my was. But new batteries are a plus.
My E10 came from Ohio Power and although it has 40k+ miles on it, it is
like new inside and out. I was very lucky to find it. Actually sorry I
had to sell it to get into my next EV.
Don
Ryan Stotts wrote:
> Nick Austin wrote:
>
>
>
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4566310584
>>
>>
>
>I'd like to see a pic of the bed tilted up. Or does that bed not tilt up?
>
>Heres some pics from some other truck to see what I'm talking about...
>
>http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/1531/608e3jk.jpg
>http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/2555/608f6em.jpg
>http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/1203/608d1gw.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There were at least 4 others sold to Arizona Public Service in Phoenix.
These were just sold again (I have two of them).
Jeff Wilson
USA (Ret)
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph Goodwin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 9:12 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: Conversions with MagnaCharge ports?
Solectria did not normally install the Hughes MagnaCharge ports on the S-10.
I worked for the electric utility that originally bought the truck you are
referring to on ebay. We special ordered four trucks with the MagnaCharge
port. Hughes and Solectria worked together to incorporate the port into the
design of the truck. At that time I understood them to be the first built
with that option and I'm not aware of any others built after that.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Nick Austin
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 2:31 PM
To: EVList
Subject: Conversions with MagnaCharge ports?
I just noticed that the Solectria S-10 on ebay has the following text in its
description:
This truck also has a Hughes MagnaCharge inductive charger port located
behind
the front license plate mount.
How did Solectria get one of these? Do all Solectria conversions have one of
these (even most)? Is there anyway for me to get one?
Thanks!
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--- Begin Message ---
It seems like regen is a liability in an EV unless spikes and excess
current handling can be taken into accounts. I've heard of electric
trains using regen and pumping the excess power into big heating
elements, venting the excess amps as heat.
I'm wondering if people have tried anything else. How about a nice
electrical discharge display of some kind? A Vandegraff generator maybe?
A plasma ball? How much power can practically be dumped into an electric
display anyway?
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Provided you have traditional non-regen pad brakes combined with regen,
the obvious solution is to simply disable the regen, but this may
produce changes in braking behaviour at unpredictable times.
None of those displays really suck down substantial power. A Jacob's
ladder sort of can but the voltage sure would need to be stepped up, and
presents a phenomenal shock and fire hazard, not to mention ozone
generation and extreme electrical interference.
Heating elements can dump lots of kW in a reasonable space for little
cost without complicated support electronics. But you could certainly
add a plasma ball or light ropes too when it goes into dissipation mode,
if you wanna get all Back To The Future.
Danny
Ken Trough wrote:
It seems like regen is a liability in an EV unless spikes and excess
current handling can be taken into accounts. I've heard of electric
trains using regen and pumping the excess power into big heating
elements, venting the excess amps as heat.
I'm wondering if people have tried anything else. How about a nice
electrical discharge display of some kind? A Vandegraff generator
maybe? A plasma ball? How much power can practically be dumped into an
electric display anyway?
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would expect a carbon arc lamp might be able to burn up several kilowatts
and make an impression on an observer. I don't know how much power you would
be able to dissipate in each lamp.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 10:15 PM
Subject: What to do with excess regen power
> It seems like regen is a liability in an EV unless spikes and excess
> current handling can be taken into accounts. I've heard of electric
> trains using regen and pumping the excess power into big heating
> elements, venting the excess amps as heat.
>
> I'm wondering if people have tried anything else. How about a nice
> electrical discharge display of some kind? A Vandegraff generator maybe?
> A plasma ball? How much power can practically be dumped into an electric
> display anyway?
>
> -Ken Trough
> Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
> http://visforvoltage.com
> AIM - ktrough
> FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
>
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I was in Napa today and was looking at their relabeled blue top
orbital. There was no price listed for the battery, and the store was
too busy for me to ask. I noticed on the top it said "Made in Spain".
Kinda surprised they have a "lead factory" over there and the fact
that it's being shipped at all that distance.
The database seems down, and they close at 4pm on Saturdays and are
closed on Sundays..:
http://www.napaonline.com/
Anyone have a price for this battery? Is it the exact same battery,
just with a different label on it?
Do they do volume discounts? What's the number of pieces for the price break?
I think Sam's Club also sells a blue top orbital. Anyone have the
price on it there(I can't get in - no card)?
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Hello? Is the list down, or did I somehow get unsubscribed?
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
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I was thinking one could get a little regen from a alternator hooked to the
tailshaft . It could charge the 12v system. Switched by the brake. It
might be a little help. Might even do without a DC/DC. Have to have a
bigger 12v battery. It'd at least run a vacuum pump. I don't know if it
would give much braking or if it could be adjusted but it might. Might even
be rewound to charge the pack. Now that might give some braking. Just a
thought. Anyone done that?
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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So a question for all the AGM people out there.
I've set my MagneCharger to shut down charging when any of the pack
sensors (8 thru the pack) read above 40C (110 degrees F). This is all
well and good, but what do you do if the temp outside is 100 degrees or
so and the car refuses to charge?
Do you:
1) Raise the temp limits in the MC?
2) Charge slowly using the 2amp stupid charger and hope for not a runaway?
3) Wait till it gets dark, cool, and charge then?
What's the impact of charging in the heat? I'm sure this problem must
have come up on the EV1's and other people.
Chris
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OK, I looked at that battery. It's a 17ah SLA. The charger won't
charge it. It certainly uses a constant voltage for bulk charge and
when the current falls below a set point it goes to a top off or float
state. I assume it's too high of an impedance to work right there.
I had it on the charger at 13.8v for awhile and it's pulling like
200mA. Maybe 400ma @ 15v. I put a fog light on it and it dropped to
8.9v @ 3.5 amps. He's dead, Jim. Anything else you want to test before
I try "reviving" it? Remember, this is an SLA. I can't check
electrolyte levels.
Danny
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Hello all,
I have a chance to aquire some nicad cells (new) but they've
been built into somewhat odd ball pack configurations. I'd like to
rearrange them into something more space efficient for a scooter. I realize
the tabs are usually done using a spot welder. . . I've soldered tabs
directly to cells before - but not on this scale. Is there any reason it's
not a good idea to solder the tabs on? I'm very good at hand soldering - I
do it quickly and use a very powerful iron - I've never <knowingly> damaged
a cell this way.
All input appreciated, Duncan
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With a Zebra battery under the back seat you can get a 140 mile range and
keep the same weight as the orginal Prius. I'd throw a 8inch ADC in where
the gas motor went. Might have to hack the system but it seems dooable.
Getting the Zebra battery might be a problem. Not to mention the charger.
The only other way would be 1200 pounds of NiCad.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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Reserve your Woodburn 2005 T-Shirt.
The design can be seen on the homepage of the NEDRA website. Click the
image for a larger view.
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Webmaster
http://www.nedra.com
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http://www.etcars.com/rentalInfo.html I just found out about these guys.
Better than those little three wheel 2stroke stinkers.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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I was lookin at Carl Larsen's 39 Ford project and noticed he didn't have any
idea on how to mount an emergency brake. I was thinking that for parking
purporses, as an extra amount of safety that a metal rod could be used to
penetrate a cooling hole in a rotor disc. That couldn't be used for an
emergency but as a parking brake it'd be really secure.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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Danny Miller wrote:
Put it on my pinging circuit for a day or two. Recharge on power
supply. Repeat discharge test, same procedure.
Recharge, come back in a couple of weeks (maybe put it back into
service?). Put back on charger, repeat discharge test.
Sound credible? Anything else you'd want to see?
What would help would be if you could cut the batteries up and do your
testing with de sulfater on one 1/2 and regular charging on the other .
steve clunn
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120+ miles of range?? What's Bob Rice get with his 120V rabbit with
T-145's? I think his record was around 100 miles, and I'm surprised it
hasn't yet buckled from the weight. Maybe you could pull it off with
lithium or NiMH, but you're not going to get either of those for $15k.
The Prius might be a good car to convert, but being a hybrid doesn't
necessarily mean it would make a good electric. Remember that its
battery weighed only a couple hundred pounds -- about as much as an
extra passenger. However, you might have luck fitting some batteries
under the seat where Toyota put them, which would be quite
convenient...
Why don't you budget $13k toward your Prius conversion, and $2k for a
gasser so you meet your $15k requirement and don't need the 120-mile
range?
-Ben
On Aug 5, 2005, at 8:29 PM, Nick Austin wrote:
Hello,
I have a 2001 Prius that has had a total engine failure at 80,000
Miles. The
body is in good shape. Seems like an ideal EV conversion candidate!
Has anybody ever converted a Prius?
So now I'm trying to decide if I should have it fixed, or convert it
to a
complete EV. If I do convert it and use it as a replacement for
its original mission, I'll need at least 120 mile range and overnight
recharge.
Is this doable? I would like to spend less then $15000 on the
conversion if
possible.
Or I could forget my pipe dream, sell this guy and buy a $2K gas car.
But that
would be such a bummer. :(
What should I do?!
Thanks!
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Gone Postal and another EVer on the list is using the Iota as a DC/DC
Roderick is having good results. Anyone else?
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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Dear group members
What are the issues with this.
I have 30x200ah TS cells.
I was thinking of building up a supercapacitor bank and putting it in
parallel with cells.
I am happy about the inter cell and inter capacitor balancing issues, but
what about the two packs working together?
I realise I would only be using a fraction of the capcitors capacity by
mirroring the TS cells, but would it help with heavy loads and regen?
Comments.
Regards Peter
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