EV Digest 4630

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Seattle area EV-savvy mechanics?
        by Patrick Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Electric jeep 4 sale
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Todd DC/DC Converter
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Electric jeep 4 sale
        by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Chattering batt. racks/motor. Temp. of motor question
        by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Chattering batt. racks/motor. Temp. of motor question
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: EVLN(Georgia Power closing EV program after 13 years)
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted
        by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: Reversing contactors -- Am I missing something?
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: Build an Induction Charging System
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) RE:Worth buying?
        by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted
        by Tony Godshall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted
        by Tony Godshall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Electric jeep 4 sale
        by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: Chattering batt. racks/motor. Temp. of motor question
        by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Need GEM auto insurance in CA
        by "J Mac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: Chattering batt. racks/motor. Temp. of motor question
        by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Subaru 360
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted
        by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Worth buying?
        by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Transmissions...
        by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: Transmissions...
        by Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: Transmissions...
        by Keith Richtman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) Re: Transmissions...
        by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) driving habits
        by Ken Olum <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: driving habits 
        by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) What is the DC input voltage range of the IOTA DLS-45 (Todd replacement)
        by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Re: Build an Induction Charging System
        by Sam Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 29) Recalibrating E-meter
        by "dan shoop" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 30) RE: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.
        by "Jake Oshins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 31) Re: Need GEM auto insurance in CA
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 32) RE: Need GEM auto insurance in CA
        by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 33) RE: Transmissions...
        by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 34) Re: Transmissions...
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 35) Re: Build an Induction Charging System
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 36) Re: What is the DC input voltage range of the IOTA DLS-45 (Todd 
replacement)
        by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 37) IOTA DLS-45 (Todd replacement)
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 38) RE: What is the DC input voltage range of the IOTA DLS-45 (Todd 
replacement)
        by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 39) Name misspelled
        by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
First - my apologies for the double post - operator error!
Secondly, thanks to all who responded with info, both off and onlist.

This could be the pot box , what kind of controller , pot box do you have . ??
 you can take a ohm meter (dmm) and check it .

The controller is a 48V AllTrax. Don't know about the pot (potentiometer?) box.

you mean the motor is trunning and the transmission is in gear but its not moving ?

Yup!

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
 Mark Hanson wrote:

> Hi,  if interested, here's the link to my EV on ebay or if you have any 
> listing suggestions for tweaking the ad, please let me know.  

Why no pics of under the hood and of the batteries?

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul wrote:

> > Who made this thing?  What's the history on it?  Is it still being
> > made?  Where can it be bought?

> It was built by Todd Engineering. 

Interesting post here:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/16035118/gotomsg/16035342.cfm

08/16/05

"I tried to call Todd Engineering but I understand they're no longer
in business."

"Many of the original engineering prints from Todd Engineering were
acquired by IOTA."

http://www.iotaengineering.com/pptech.htm 


Looks like they are still being made, just under a different brand?

http://www.mastertech-inc.com/iota/ 


If the input for it is 108 - 132 VAC, what's the highest DC voltage it can take?


To find some prices on the various models, enter them here like this:

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=iota+DLS+27-25 

Or:

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=iota+DLS+27-15


Which was the model that used to be used?

Was it this one?

http://www.mastertech-inc.com/iota/dls55.html

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=iota+DLS-55

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
EV enthusiasts from the list are probably going to
want a bullet list of the black boxes, ie, 
-DCP DCDC 
-Curtis 1231C controller
- _____ heater
- _____ suspension upgrades
etc. etc.

I know this is tougher for you, b/c you have homebrew
electronics (and high-quality stuff, at that, but it
would still be a bit more attractive that way.  Just
my 0.02.

>  Mark Hanson wrote:
> 
> > Hi,  if interested, here's the link to my EV on
> ebay or if you have any listing suggestions for
> tweaking the ad, please let me know.  
> 


'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
                          ____ 
                     __/__|__\ __        
           =D-------/   -  -     \      
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? 
Are you saving any gas for your kids?


                
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One MINOR issue to resolve:

   Every once in awhile, I hit a bump, or accelerate
hard, and there is a brief chatter between the bottom
of my firewall battery rack, and the motor.
   One way to resolve it is to re-do the battery rack.
 It's not a big enough issue to merit re-doing it on
_this_ conversion.
   Another way is to silicone some felt or rubber to
the top of the ADC 8" motor, thus absorbing the noise.
 
   This approach depends on how hot the motor gets on
a 300A pull up a hill for example.  If the rubber
burns, that's not much of a solution to the issue! 
After a hard pull, my motor is HOT to the touch, but
quickly cools down.
   Suggestions?

'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
                          ____ 
                     __/__|__\ __        
           =D-------/   -  -     \      
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? 
Are you saving any gas for your kids?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob Bath wrote:

>   Suggestions?

I really need to see a picture of it to visualize what we're dealing with.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
get the Bombardier's from Ebay,  I'm going to Atlanta this week-end to get
one for $4200 that was used by Georgia Power.  Mark
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sam Harper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: EVLN(Georgia Power closing EV program after 13 years)


> So who do I contact about purchasing one these vehicles?
>
> Sincerely,
> Sam Harper
>
> bruce parmenter wrote:
>
> >EVLN(Georgia Power closing EV program after 13 years)
> >[The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
> >informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
> >--- {EVangel}
> >http://www.ajc.com/opinion/content/opinion/0805/16edelectric.html
> >GUEST COLUMN: ENERGY
> >Idea of electric cars still merits attention
> >By BEHERUZ N. SETHNA  Published on: 08/16/05
> >[Beheruz N. Sethna is president of the University of West Georgia
> >in Carrollton.]
> >
> >I sometimes compare public reaction to gasoline prices with
> >public reaction to SAT scores. While experts in both fields worry
> >daily, the public reacts to SAT scores only on the few days each
> >year when results come out. People pay attention to gas supplies
> >and alternative fuels only when prices at the pump soar. We might
> >do better with a consistent, proactive and strategic stance.
> >
> >Georgia Power Co. is closing its electric transportation program
> >after 13 years. This is unfortunate. Since 1992, the utility
> >company researched and developed electric vehicles and tried to
> >sell the idea of alternative fuel transportation.
> >
> >Cost to manufacture the vehicles, lack of infrastructure that
> >included recharging stations and limited battery range were
> >issues that helped its demise, said Don Francis, former manager
> >of the electric vehicle infrastructure product.
> >
> >Facing those issues, most businesses would have done the same.
> >Marketing alternative fuels has always been a problem because of
> >the reactionary nature of our society.
> >
> >In the late 1970s and early 1980s, as an associate professor at
> >Clarkson University in New York, I did research on electric cars
> >with an undergraduate research team and a Department of Energy
> >grant.
> >
> >Almost every day from November 1981 through March 1982, I drove
> >an electric car to work. Living in upstate New York, my daily
> >route included heavy snowfalls and winter temperatures that
> >reached 40 below zero. The car performed great under such stark
> >conditions and my final report to the Department of Energy stated
> >that it "never failed to start on the first try."
> >
> >We were able to collect excellent data, which led to design,
> >marketing and tax recommendations. The cost of electricity was
> >computed to be 5 cents a mile over the test period.
> >
> >The heater inside the car consumed gasoline. I paid a total of $2
> >for that gas for the entire five-month test period. My report to
> >the Department of Energy included observations on the need for
> >improved public opinion, more research in battery technology and
> >a hybrid technology.
> >
> >What has changed over the years? Hybrid cars using both gas and
> >electricity are finally available and affordable.
> >
> >Using old performance data with today's costs of gas and
> >electricity, rough computations show that at today's prices, it
> >probably would still take eight to nine years to have an electric
> >car break even, but those test conditions were very harsh. Even
> >if the break-even point were four to five years today, a person
> >would probably buy an electric or hybrid car mainly out of a
> >sense of responsibility — which is not a bad way to proceed.
> >
> >If gas prices increase further, and the government, realizing the
> >strategic advantage of consuming less gas, sets aside more money
> >for research and tax incentives, that break-even point would
> >decrease significantly.
> >
> >As the price of gas rises, we see human nature reacting to those
> >prices and thinking of alternative means of transportation. Being
> >proactive and having a long-term strategy in place would ensure
> >acceptance of alternatives like hybrids and electric cars by the
> >general public.
> >
> >Research into alternatives and a change in the way we think would
> >be steps in the right strategic direction. The University of West
> >Georgia is nationally recognized for its undergraduate research.
> >As president of UWG, I see opportunities on this campus and
> >others to delve into the necessary research if resources are made
> >available. It's a matter of public and governmental will. The
> >future is truly in our hands.
> >-
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
> >
> >' ____
> >~/__|o\__
> >'@----- @'---(=
> >. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
> >. EV List Editor, RE & AFV newswires
> >. (originator of the above ASCII art)
> >===== Undo Petroleum Everywhere
> >
> >
> >
> >____________________________________________________
> >Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
> >http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---


Jeff Shanab wrote:

Proposal

Pick an existing standard that handles well many differnt suppliers and
users and would allow equipment to coexist on a buss

Establish a governing body that allows suppliers to register a company
code with.

CAN BUS? LIN bus? TCP/IP? Token-RIng?  Fiber Channel


EVIL bus?
<http://wwia.org/sgroup/evtech/?keywords=evil+bus>
I don't believe there is a standard protocol but if you want to make an RFC someone might listen to you =)

I have looked at data from my GM ECU and it is in this manner. Even
though the computer is in a 95 pontiac grand am, it still prefaces all
packets with the "95 grand am" hex codes.   As a matter of fact, and
this may be of use, GM has standardized on powerPC controllers, they are
the same on all their vehicles and can be re-flashed to the tune of
about 2 meg of code, They are pretty powerfull units and are
interestingly built with integral heatsink that requires no fan. They
can read at least 4 PWM signals and have lots and lots of digital and
analog I/O with built in signal conditioning. Because of this they are
about $100 from a wrecking yard. Has anyone thought about using one of
these as a robust platform for charge control or regen control or ....


I had always assumed ECU units would be quite proprietary.

--
Martin Klingensmith

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> So ... the 200A continuous rating is really conservative?

No; it's more a matter that you aren't likely to exceed its 200a
continuous rating. To do so you would have to driving up a very long
steep hill, or putting along in a parade at 3 mph in 4th gear.

> What's the failure mode when exceeding the 200A rating of the
> Albright reversing contactor?

I don't have the curves handy, but it's something like 200a continuous,
350a for 5 minutes, 1000a for 1 minute, etc. If you manage to exceed
these limits, the contacts would overheat and could weld.

> Just seems the motor-side contactor should be considerably beefier
> (amp-wise) than the battery-side.

In general, you're right. The motor-side contactor carries more current
on average. But in the worst-case situation (controller stuck on)
battery and motor current are the same. So it is common to size them
both the same.
-- 
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart  814 8th Ave N  Sartell MN 56377  leeahart_at_earthlink.net

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sam Harper wrote:
> So guys, if I wanted to build a small scale electrostatic
> induction system, how would I do it?

Electrostatic and induction are two different techniques.

For induction, you'd start with a working charger. Saw the transformer
in half (figuratively), and put half in the car, and half on a cord or
in a plate in the floor. Bring the two halves together, and it works
like any other transformer.

The two halves don't actually need to touch, but the smaller the air
gap, the better. Also, high frequency transformer halves will be smaller
than 60hz transformer halves; but it works the same.

For an electrostatically (capacitively) coupled charger, you need two
pairs of insulated metal plates, or one pair of plates and a grounded
car. You want to arrange the plates for the largest surface area and
thinnest insulation layers practical. You apply a high-frequency
high-voltage AC between the two fixed plates. The power capacitively
couples to the pair of plates in the car. Again, there is no actual
electrical contact and no bare metal, so it's hard to get a shock.

However, the capacitance you can get with practical plates is quite
small. This requires quite a high AC voltage and frequency to couple any
significant amount of power. Since the higher the voltge, the thicker
the insulation on the plates needs to be to prevent shocks, this
approach is not nearly as practical for EV charging.
-- 
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart  814 8th Ave N  Sartell MN 56377  leeahart_at_earthlink.net

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have atleast two EV-1 Panels I could sell is any body interested?
Mike G.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> CAN BUS? LIN bus? TCP/IP? Token-RIng?  Fiber Channel

RS-485?  Essentially just RS232 but open collector (i.e. a
bus).  Easy to interface std RS232 devices to, easy to
program, lots of off-the-shelf parts.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
According to Victor Tikhonov,
> Jeff Shanab wrote:
> >As we start to make these wonderfull products for EV's Maybe we should
> >start considering some basic design philosophys.
> >
> >1. Seperate Interface from function.
> >2. Adhere to a standard.
> 
> Jeff, this wonderful idea won't work. Didn't you notice what
> you propose already exist for the long time, yet people does
> own things. Forcing adhearance to somehing someone doesn't like
> is seen almost as dictatorship. Everyone rather than stick
> to the standard smart people came up with, will start questioning
> authority of suggester, and personal egos (why not *MY* standard?)
> will take priority over engineering.
> 
> Also you force everyone to learn new stuff - this is
> uncomfortable for many and unrealiztic to enforce.
> 
> This is just what I sense as a probable outcome.
> 
> I'll suppost you, but sorry, I will spend my energy elsewhere -
> it already takes enough of it just to type messages on EVDL.

Standards do work, when they are made straightforward enough for 
easy and inexpensive adoption.  Witness TCP/IP over OSI, etc.

Thus my RS-485 comment.  Simplest multidrop I could think of.
A standardized protocol can be layered ontop of it, or not.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Really nice job.  Best of luck with your sale. 


 
> From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2005/08/26 Fri AM 10:17:42 EST
> To: <[email protected]>
> Subject: Electric jeep 4 sale
> 
> Hi,  if interested, here's the link to my EV on ebay or if you have any 
> listing suggestions for tweaking the ad, please let me know.  Getting a 
> Bombardier this week-end.
> Thanks, Mark
> 
>  
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Fcgiurl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fcgi.ebay.com%252Fws%252F%26fkr%3D1%26from%3DR8%26satitle%3D4571532074%26fvi%3D1&item=4571532074
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hmmm.  Battery racks are 1/2" above motor.  ASCII art:
L_______________| (rack)
         _                  --> 1/2" gap, where the
two can touch
        (_ )  (motor, not to scale)
         

--- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Bob Bath wrote:
> 
> >   Suggestions?
> 
> I really need to see a picture of it to visualize
> what we're dealing with.
> 
> 


'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
                          ____ 
                     __/__|__\ __        
  =D-------/    -  -         \  
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? 
Are you saving any gas for your kids?


                
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Many companies will not write policies for GEMS.

State Farm does -- rec'd a quote for $84/month.
I hear USAA will write a policy for under $25/month.

I need your help with this .. who to call .. going rate, etc.
I'm in the Bay Area, CA.

Thanks,
Mac

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Hmm, how are the battery boxes mounted? Possible to raise them up a bit by putting spacers?

Heavy loads can cause the motor/transmission to tilt up a bit, maybe lower the front of the assembly some or making the mount more rigid?


----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Bath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: Chattering batt. racks/motor. Temp. of motor question


Hmmm.  Battery racks are 1/2" above motor.  ASCII art:
L_______________| (rack)
        _                  --> 1/2" gap, where the
two can touch
       (_ )  (motor, not to scale)


--- Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Bob Bath wrote:

>   Suggestions?

I really need to see a picture of it to visualize
what we're dealing with.




'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
  ____
                    __/__|__\ __
 =D-------/    -  -         \
                    'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?



____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs




--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I looked at the car and it makes a Fiat 600 look big.  If you like small 
this is for you.  There is room for batteries under the back seat, In the 
engine compartment and maybe under the front seats.  Front compartment is 
very small.  It has two bench seats(front and rear) Cute as a bug.  I has 
most of the parts and only 16k on the clock. It is in Mill Valley. There is 
some rust but mostly surface.   There are dents but fixable.  I'd go for it 
but I'd have to get rid of my half completed VW Rabbit conversion if I 
wanted to do it.  It has a back battery box and motor installed.  to the 
Arcaners this car has most of the parts.  Good glass and turnsignal plastic. 
The only thing I noticed missing was a connection between the aircleaner and 
the carb.  If someone bought my VW conversion then I could get the Subaru. 
Reason.  I could then get two cars in my garage.  This is certainly a job 
for Frank the Metal god.  Just the kind of thing  The Northwestern 
contingent would apreciate.  Lawrence Rhodes.....
http://www.craigslist.org/nby/car/92064971.html Pictures.

(415) 717-7289 is the number . Call me and we will set up a time for you to 
take a look at the car.  Asking $1,200.
Adrienne 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It is not robust enough for noisy automotive environment.

Victor

Tony Godshall wrote:
According to Victor Tikhonov,

Jeff Shanab wrote:

As we start to make these wonderfull products for EV's Maybe we should
start considering some basic design philosophys.

1. Seperate Interface from function.
2. Adhere to a standard.

Jeff, this wonderful idea won't work. Didn't you notice what
you propose already exist for the long time, yet people does
own things. Forcing adhearance to somehing someone doesn't like
is seen almost as dictatorship. Everyone rather than stick
to the standard smart people came up with, will start questioning
authority of suggester, and personal egos (why not *MY* standard?)
will take priority over engineering.

Also you force everyone to learn new stuff - this is
uncomfortable for many and unrealiztic to enforce.

This is just what I sense as a probable outcome.

I'll suppost you, but sorry, I will spend my energy elsewhere -
it already takes enough of it just to type messages on EVDL.


Standards do work, when they are made straightforward enough for easy and inexpensive adoption. Witness TCP/IP over OSI, etc.

Thus my RS-485 comment.  Simplest multidrop I could think of.
A standardized protocol can be layered ontop of it, or not.

--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different

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--- Begin Message ---

If you where thinking of making one then yes for sure , Would I buy it and fix it up and try and sell it , well if I wasn't going to spend all my money on batteries for my lawn mower I would . If you can's decide, Go there with the 1k and some jumper cables , discount wires to controller ( at least one ) and see if the motor spins ( take it out of gear) . If it dose buy it .

steveclunn
let me know if you don't want it.



           Hi Stu and All,

Stu or Jan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
It is a secret. He wants about $1,000. Is it worth that?



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- One thing that's bothered me... how can running 55+ mph in second gear not be bad for a transmission? Has anyone had transmissions explode from overrev?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Good question, im curious myself :)

Cwarman

Mark McCurdy wrote:

One thing that's bothered me... how can running 55+ mph in second gear not be bad for a transmission? Has anyone had transmissions explode from overrev?

.


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- It certainly can't be good for them. My friend David toasted two Chevy Sprint (Swift, Metro, etc) transmissions with an ADC 6.7", so it certainly wasn't from torque. Then again he did like to run 65 mph in 2nd gear. The second one resulted in a 65 mph skid too, so it seems likely that the high rotational speed and failure were related.

Keith

Mark McCurdy wrote:
One thing that's bothered me... how can running 55+ mph in second gear not be bad for a transmission? Has anyone had transmissions explode from overrev?



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I run ACRX only on the second gear. Sometimes up to 40 mph on first.
Do it since 1995, no problems so far...

Keith Richtman wrote:
It certainly can't be good for them. My friend David toasted two Chevy Sprint (Swift, Metro, etc) transmissions with an ADC 6.7", so it certainly wasn't from torque. Then again he did like to run 65 mph in 2nd gear. The second one resulted in a 65 mph skid too, so it seems likely that the high rotational speed and failure were related.

Keith

Mark McCurdy wrote:

One thing that's bothered me... how can running 55+ mph in second gear not be bad for a transmission? Has anyone had transmissions explode from overrev?



--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Could someone point me to the study from which one draws such
conclusions as "x% of all car trips are less than 40 miles"?

The thing I would really like to be able to determine is this: What
percentage of cars in America could be replaced with electric cars
with a range of N miles without any change in driving habits (or with
families choosing who should drive which car but otherwise going to
the same places)?  I suspect this isn't known because it would require
asking people the longest trip their car has ever been on or the
longest trips made simultaneously by all members of their families.
But I would settle for the question of what percentage of trips are
within a given range.

Thanks.

                                        Ken

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's a quote (85%) from Mike Brown's book "Convert
It".  Mike's pretty thorough, so maybe he can source
it for us.
peace, 

--- Ken Olum <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Could someone point me to the study from which one
> draws such
> conclusions as "x% of all car trips are less than 40
> miles"?
> 
> The thing I would really like to be able to
> determine is this: What
> percentage of cars in America could be replaced with
> electric cars
> with a range of N miles without any change in
> driving habits (or with
> families choosing who should drive which car but
> otherwise going to
> the same places)?  I suspect this isn't known
> because it would require
> asking people the longest trip their car has ever
> been on or the
> longest trips made simultaneously by all members of
> their families.
> But I would settle for the question of what
> percentage of trips are
> within a given range.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
>                                         Ken
> 
> 


'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
                          ____ 
                     __/__|__\ __        
  =D-------/    -  -         \  
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? 
Are you saving any gas for your kids?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I'm considering an IOTA DLS-45 to replace my DCP DC/DC converter. I need to know what the min and max DC input voltage is for these. I've sent email to the techincal person at IOTA, but no reply. Since these seem to be the Todd replacement, I thought that someone else may have this data.

Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:

Sam Harper wrote:
So guys, if I wanted to build a small scale electrostatic
induction system, how would I do it?

Electrostatic and induction are two different techniques.

For induction, you'd start with a working charger. Saw the transformer
in half (figuratively), and put half in the car, and half on a cord or
in a plate in the floor. Bring the two halves together, and it works
like any other transformer.
How large of an air gap will still work?  12 inches?  24 inches?

The two halves don't actually need to touch, but the smaller the air
gap, the better. Also, high frequency transformer halves will be smaller
than 60hz transformer halves; but it works the same.
Will higher voltage transformers be more efficient? Is AC or DC more effective?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What are you guys using for a Peukert Exponent for Excid Orbital 34CD's? 
I have the E-meter set at 1.09 but at the end of a week of charging and
discharging the LED charge indicator reports no charge while the battery
regs and voltage show full capacity.  I remedy this by resetting each
week.  Any ideas or suggestion?

-- 
___________________________________________________________
Sign-up for Ads Free at Mail.com
http://promo.mail.com/adsfreejump.htm

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is worth seconding.  And it is, by the way, what the batteries in
your laptop computer do.  There is a microcontroller embedded in the
battery package that watches the battery while it drains, with various
other factors like the current temperature.  Then it builds a set of
tables (pre-populated at the factory, of course) that describe the
current behavior of that particular battery.  This allows more accurate
guesses about when the moment will pass when voltage will drop too low
to power the computer.  (And yes, I know that it doesn't seem
particularly accurate even with this.)

- Jake Oshins

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 7:39 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: e-meter type gadget wish list wanted.

Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> Issue is, who is going to provide data for look up tables?

There are lots of problems with expecting to have lookup tables for all
batteries. There will always be lots of them you missed. The list will
be obsolete the day after you publish it. And real batteries rarely meet
their published specs.

I think you're better off having generic parameters you can enter
(battery voltage, amphours, Peukert exponent) so you can trim them to
suit any battery.

Then (what the E-meter is missing), have your meter alter these default
settings based on what the battery actually does! For example, you
claimed it was 100ah at the 20-hour rate; it actually hit 1.75v/cell at
80ah at the 20-hour rate. So, amend the stored amphours accordingly.
-- 
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart  814 8th Ave N  Sartell MN 56377  leeahart_at_earthlink.net

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try this:  http://www.safeauto.com/

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Travelers wrote insurance for my GEM.  The premium for second car was good
and low.  I live in a mid-size city in Oregon...pop. 50K
-Richard-

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of J Mac
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 1:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Need GEM auto insurance in CA

Many companies will not write policies for GEMS.

State Farm does -- rec'd a quote for $84/month.
I hear USAA will write a policy for under $25/month.

I need your help with this .. who to call .. going rate, etc.
I'm in the Bay Area, CA.

Thanks,
Mac

_________________________________________________________________
Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark,   Transmissions are totally different animals than ICE's.  There are
no parts reciprocating at hi revs and they are inherently pretty well
balanced.  Their bearings should have no problems with the R's that you are
talking about if they are in decent shape.  Be sure that the fluid used has
adequate film strength.  
-Richard-

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark McCurdy
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 10:55 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Transmissions...

One thing that's bothered me... how can running 55+ mph in second gear not 
be bad for a transmission? Has anyone had transmissions explode from 
overrev? 


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark McCurdy wrote:

> how can running 55+ mph in second gear not
> be bad for a transmission? Has anyone had transmissions explode from
> over rev?

It depends on which car is in question.  Things like the rear axle
ratio, transmission gear ratios, and tire height.

My fuel car would do 35 or 45 mph(can't remember) @ 6,000 rpm in first
gear and 85 mph @ 6,000 rpm in second gear.  It would have done more
but my motor was not good for more then 6,000 rpm.

26" tall tires, 2.73 axle gear ratio, 3.35 first gear, 1.93 second
gear.  4th gear in a 4 speed transmission and 4th gear in a 5 speed
are usually 1:1 ratio if you want to test out what it would be like if
you had no transmission and had a direct drive setup.  Good to test if
your motor could move it..

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you want to play with high voltage, here's a relatively low cost device:

http://www.unitednuclear.com/hvsupply.htm

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Their page specifies 108 - 132 volts AC. 
http://www.iotaengineering.com/45spec.htm
I doubt you'd get much help from them though as the converter is not 
specifically made to use DC in put. I do know that the 120vac units can take a 
144 volt pack and to my understanding the 240vac units can take in the upwards 
of 300vdc.
 
Tomorrow I might find out just how much tollerance there is with one. I 
originally had planned a 192 volt conversion, but only found room for 144. In 
the mean time I bought a 240 vac Iota, it's still there. I'm doubting it will 
work, but I'm going to try it anyways before I run out and buy a 120volt 
version. If it does work I'd be willing to bet the 120volt version would take a 
fairly low input.

Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm considering an IOTA DLS-45 to replace my DCP DC/DC converter. I 
need to know what the min and max DC input voltage is for these. I've 
sent email to the techincal person at IOTA, but no reply. Since these 
seem to be the Todd replacement, I thought that someone else may have 
this data.

Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads



Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Roderick Wilde and others have had good luck with the Iota at as high as 240vdc. I'm getting one. Maybe Roderick will chime in on how he installed it.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ricky,  If you end up not using your 240V Iota, I may be interested in
buying it from you.   My Honda will be either 228V or 240V at the pack.
If you want to contact me off list I'm at-    [EMAIL PROTECTED]
---Richard Rau---

>>Ricky Suitor wrote-
Tomorrow I might find out just how much tollerance there is with one. I
originally had planned a 192 volt conversion, but only found room for 144.
In the mean time I bought a 240 vac Iota, it's still there. I'm doubting it
will work, but I'm going to try it anyways before I run out and buy a
120volt version. If it does work I'd be willing to bet the 120volt version
would take a fairly low input.<<


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry Ricky ..... I now see it's spelled 'Suiter'


--- End Message ---

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